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Old 09-25-2011, 04:52 AM   #31
Dieselboy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
We should be able to find a Master link for the timing chain and break the chain. I rivet the timing chains on my Husaberg and KTM with a timing chain tool. That may be a big time saver?
It would be a massive time saver and infinitely safer for the shade-tree mechanic. I'm confident I can work through the whole process (with a little help and great deal of care) but you literally are pulling the guts out of this engine and exposing yourself to a long list of potentially catastrophic mistakes.

...and I don't know what "tricks" are not listed that the techs all understand as common knowledge.

After a day of printing and reading, I might reconsidered becoming the crash test dummy for the master link.....
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:01 AM   #32
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TIMING GEAR

23

Is the Husqvarna/KTM chain similar to our F800? This thing has three or four plates to every link and looks complicated. If it were like the drive chain, I would not even hesitate to link it, but the cam chain (#11 above) doesn't look like it lends itself to a master link.
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:25 AM   #33
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I'm looking for pictures of the cam chain to see the construction. Can't find any but I have found pics that inmates have posted of theirs on the bike and thought it would be good to collect into this thread:



This is what it should look like:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lager Meister View Post
FWIW, here's what mine looked like two days ago when I checked the valves. The bike has 13,000 miles on it.



Keep in mind this picture was taken after rotating the engine by hand to align the timing marks on the cams, which would no doubt take up any slack in the chain between the cam gears. Unfortunately I didn't snap any pictures before rotating the engine and I didn't even think to check the cam chain for slack.


This is what it shouldn't look like:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apostolos View Post
2010 F8gs with 13.5k miles on it. ...



The camshaft sprockets aren't lined up, but should the chain be that loose under any circumstances? ...

Nor like this (from the current king of F800GS destruction, let's give it up for Lost Rider ):


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Late yesterday I was called by the dealer who was to fix my leaking head gasket, and check my valves while they were in there. ( 50,000 miles and the valves have never been adjusted, but were in spec @ 36,000)...

...
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:34 AM   #34
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Aha! Oso Blanco has a good pic from the top:

24


So you think we can master link this beast?





Side note: Oso Blanco is also the source for the home made crank tool (M8 bolt tapered on a bench grinder):
25
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:16 AM   #35
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I'm reading to this thread and still wondering why you'd have to split the cases to run the cam chain down from the top end and down, around the crank.

Is it because there's no clearance inside to make it around? Any bike i've done before has always had some clearance where you could make it around the crank, and then carefully engage the cam sprockets into the chain and bolt them in the end of the camshafts. Taking the sidecover off should be able to reveal all the necessary details.
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:48 AM   #36
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I would be glad to research the master link and aftermarket timing chain. Can anyone get me the chain pitch on the timing chain, pin diameter and chain width?
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:26 AM   #37
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I had asked about that in another thread I think, but never got any info. We'd probably have to order an OE or find someone who's had theirs done and kept the chain.
(I've also swapped out chains in a Berg and KTM so we're on the same page). It sure would be a lot easier, especially if the guides could be swapped with some fiddling through the side cover.
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:13 AM   #38
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I'm really digging how everyone is coming together in this thread to try to figure out the best way to do this ourselves.
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:44 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaner32 View Post
I'm reading to this thread and still wondering why you'd have to split the cases to run the cam chain down from the top end and down, around the crank.

Is it because there's no clearance inside to make it around? Any bike i've done before has always had some clearance where you could make it around the crank, and then carefully engage the cam sprockets into the chain and bolt them in the end of the camshafts. Taking the sidecover off should be able to reveal all the necessary details.
Near as I can tell, no there is not clearance around the crank. So you have to get at the crank through the bottom of the engine which requires it to be turned upside down.
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Old 09-25-2011, 09:46 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
I would be glad to research the master link and aftermarket timing chain. Can anyone get me the chain pitch on the timing chain, pin diameter and chain width?
If no one gets it before next week, I'll have one in hand then.
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:17 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Dieselboy View Post
Near as I can tell, no there is not clearance around the crank. So you have to get at the crank through the bottom of the engine which requires it to be turned upside down.
I think we can break the chain between the cam sprockets and safety wire the new chain to the old chain and by removing the spark plugs and having someone turn the rear wheel while in gear. 2 people should be able to feed the new chain around the crank and back up on top for installing the master pin connector on the new chain.
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:20 PM   #42
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Here's the slide hammer thing I was referring to:
http://products.unbeatablesale.com/o..._101865091.php

It screws in place of the adjusting bolt in the end of the vise grip pliers and most standard slide hammers can then be threaded into it. Pretty useful tool overall.
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:20 PM   #43
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I'm still not following this "vise grip - slide hammer" tool thingy. Guess I need to see it in action to understand it. Please explain the application of its use....Bayner.

Have to agree with Indy....there has to be a "way" to do that. After all, that's how the chains are made to begin with. Every link is riveted to another. Why would it be any problem to break it and reassemble it....assuming you could fine the correct link rivets? Wonder if you could make your own masterlink using parts from the original camchain....hhhhmmmm.

Someone mentioned earlier about a special tray to keep valve shims sorted out. I just use a fresh egg carton (from grocery store). Plenty of room to write labels with a permanent marker on the big humps next to each depression. Just drop one shim per egg slot and label it.....works great!

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Old 09-26-2011, 08:46 PM   #44
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I'm still not following this "vise grip - slide hammer" tool thingy. Guess I need to see it in action to understand it. Please explain the application of its use....Bayner.

HF
Hmmmm. That tool is an adapter screw that replaces the adjuster on the end of the vise grips. It contains an internal thread diameter and pitch that matches the shaft of most slide hammers, thereby turning your vise grips into a rather universal puller, provided you have something for the pliers to lock onto. (I'm also making the assumption that you already have both a slide hammer and vise-grips. If you don't then something like this may make the concept more imaginable:)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTpNAVPsz7Y

or this one, where it become applicable around 2:20
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFdA0...eature=related

They can come in handy when you just have to get something done, but don't have access to the specific puller.


In regards to sneaking the chain through- I would think there's enough clearance around the bottom of the crank to drop the chain low and feed it around without having to rotate the engine. I was sort of mentally picturing the clearance problem being such that you cannot pass the chain past the face of the gears, etc. I am of course talking out my ass here since I have never seen the area in question.

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Old 09-27-2011, 05:36 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayner View Post
...In regards to sneaking the chain through- I would think there's enough clearance around the bottom of the crank to drop the chain low and feed it around without having to rotate the engine. I was sort of mentally picturing the clearance problem being such that you cannot pass the chain past the face of the gears, etc. I am of course talking out my ass here since I have never seen the area in question.
I think Indy's plan would work:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
I think we can break the chain between the cam sprockets and safety wire the new chain to the old chain and by removing the spark plugs and having someone turn the rear wheel while in gear. 2 people should be able to feed the new chain around the crank and back up on top for installing the master pin connector on the new chain.

But how to safely cut the chain? I don't have a plasma cutter. The dremel seems a bit small for this application or maybe it is exactly the right size. IDK. I've only ground a couple of chain links in my time and I used my bench grinder for that.


And what type of rivet and rivet tool? This is not something I would want to cobble together. Precision weight and quality for the type of spinning this thing is doing is a must.





EDIT: Not sure what I was thinkng here. Of course there is a rivet tool for this chain. And of course there is a breaker. I carry one for the drive chain. I think the strange construct of a quiet chain threw my reasoning off. My first go at this type.
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