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Old 05-01-2012, 01:25 PM   #166
sailah OP
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Al,

The only reason I am making the collars is that I bought a bunch of 1.5" rod for scrap and it's easy enough to make them. But yes, you are correct. I find Mcmaster a better source for small quantities and they have it to me next door from OH to PA.

Re collector length, what would you define as the collector length? Total header length from block to ??

I'd like to lengthen the header to lower the torque curve however that might be hard to do since I am planning on a more direct route from the block to the pipe. I don't really want to lengthen it for that reason but maybe I'm not understanding collector length.

I would love a shear and a brake but unfortunately my shop space is alittle limited...the Bridgeport is next in line
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Old 05-04-2012, 07:43 PM   #167
Roadracer_Al
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Basically, if you want to be technically accurate, and have a platform to discuss your measurements with engineers, the dimensions are from the center of the valve face, down the geometric center of the port and exhaust tubing.

For my own purposes, i.e. building my own exhaust system, I measure to the exhaust port flange. I use a sewing fabric tape measure, and average the lengths of the inside and outside of the bends. Straight sections are measured directly.

For collectors, longer, shallower collectors flow better, but are harder to package on a motorcycle. It's possible to build curved 2-tube collectors using pre-bends.
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:36 PM   #168
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Have a look at this program for working out your exhaust

http://www.mez.co.uk/mezporting/exhaust_length.html
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:20 AM   #169
sailah OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
Have a look at this program for working out your exhaust

http://www.mez.co.uk/mezporting/exhaust_length.html
That made my head hurt

Al,

I'm basically going to wing it here. Ultimate performance is not what I am after, the 600 motor has power aplenty for my purposes. I have reduced the primary diameter from 1.375" to 1.25" which should lower peak torque by 750 rpms according to the site Joe listed.

I don't know how I would lengthen the exhaust anymore other than the short 180 jog it will need to make in 2" tubing heading to the can. The primaries are going to be shortened because I need to hug the block to clear the tire.

As with everything I do, I hope it all works out fine.. I'll ride it and give it the seat dyno approval.

My goodness are those exhaust parts pricey. $275 for basically everything I need. And I have a 1.25" tubing die I just figured there's would be better quality bends in a much tighter radius. The bends are okay, but if I bought the steel myself and bent it I would have saved $200. Oh well next time.

Getting my coffee fired up here and headed to the lathe to make some collars, let me know what you think, I'm going a little unconventional here...stay "tuned"
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:45 PM   #170
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That sounds about right regarding the tube size and torque peak.

Another thing to consider are "exhaust donuts" - they're extremely tight bends that are stamped out of sheet metal, and you get a full 360*. They're good for solving problems, but generally are so tight they don't flow well.
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:58 PM   #171
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Managed to get a pretty complete exhaust header made, I'm exhausted too

Started with a solid rod of steel, turned it to fit the original OD of the exhaust port. Reamed it to 1.125" which is the ID of my header primaries.



Bored to fit the header primary



Since the original headers were 1.375" I turned a taper from where the collar bolts to the block to the header pipe for a smooth transition





Lotta this...



Some of this



You can see where I routed around the oil filter and radiator thing on the block.. Lots of clearance now.





Lots of rotating and welding



I had to keep reminding myself to make sure I remembered to put the Honda plates that hold it to the block before I welded the primaries together



anyways I am pretty happy with how it came out. I'm sure like anything you get better as you go and I bet I could do a better job next time. Mostly I wish I had possibly changed how far away the 4-2 are away from each other. Makes a long and bad angle for the 2-1.

Not enough for me to change anything though. Tomorrow I'm going to get the 2" sections done for the final exit to the pipe. That should be a cake walk compared to today
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:13 PM   #172
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very impressive.

I reckon it would take me a whole day just to do one primary
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Old 05-06-2012, 02:25 PM   #173
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As I thought, the rear sections were a lot easier



Here's the can I will be dumping into, Arrow Ducati Race can



And a exhaust hanger I made on the lathe with a steel bracket to weld to the collector for support.



I need to attach the spring retainers to the main pipe as well as to the can and also build some exhuast can mounts to attach to the subframe. Almost out of argon, but I think I have enough to finish welding the header.

After that, it's mounting the radiator and some odds and ends which seem to take forever. I might rob the Trailtech headlight from my husky along with the Trailtech I will use for gauges. Hopefully in a month I am ready to rip
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:54 PM   #174
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Well done, laddie!

The ability to bend your tubing really cuts down on the amount of cutting and welding you have to do.
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:38 AM   #175
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Great stuff! Really nice work! I like how the 2nd from left header goes just by the oil filter making it also possible to remove the filter without having to remove the exhaust! I'm not 100% sure, but with the previous exhaust, as it went over the oil filter, was it possible to change it without having to remove the exhaust? From the picture, it looks like the exhaust would have had to be removed.

I was thinking of making my own exhaust for the LC4, but as I didn't have the tools nor the skills yet, I just bought an aftermarket one.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:37 AM   #176
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theres plenty of space to get the filter off with out removing the stock exhaust.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:24 AM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerraRoot View Post
theres plenty of space to get the filter off with out removing the stock exhaust.
if you were following the thread you would also know there is no room for a 21" front wheel w/the stock exhaust - filter removal has nothing to do w/this exhaust build.

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Old 05-07-2012, 11:43 AM   #178
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I was just answering lortdadu's query, easy to spot when your following the thread.
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Old 05-07-2012, 11:59 AM   #179
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I was just answering lortdadu's query, easy to spot when your following the thread.
sorry - my bad.

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Old 05-07-2012, 12:01 PM   #180
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Yeah, I knew that, but it just looked from the pic that the exhaust would have to be removed to change the oil filter as well, should've been more descriptive.
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