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Old 10-27-2011, 04:59 AM   #91
sailah OP
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Originally Posted by TerraRoot View Post


i've a few questions, is the seat far enough forward? where will the pegs go? why did you chop up the frame to add that spar?
The seat is perfect on my build but remember I don't have a tank anymore. I have Carmichael high bend bars and right where you want to sit on a dirt bike is where I put the bottom of the seat arch. You have the ability to get much further forward than if you were on a regular F2/3

Pegs will be located (guessing at the moment) a little bit further forward and lower than the stockers. It might interfere with the spar I made so I might have to redo that. I usually make my own "rearsets" out of steel tubing and locate them where my legs aren't cramped and I can stand comfortably.

I chopped the frame because I had already sawn the entire frame in half at this point. Those engine supports were so beat to shit from the wreck that it was impossible to get them right to mate back up to the hole in the engine. Plus the spars really don't provide a lot of protection being supported on just one end. I'll find out soon if they were a mistake as I need to drop the motor to finish welding. Also if I can get pegs to land somewhere comfortable I may have to redo them.

The chassis I'm guessing is similar to mine in terms of frame design. It has been fairly easy to fit the dirt bike running gear in the bike. It has been more difficult than the FZ1 project because on that one I didn't have to align sprockets and I do on this one. There's still lots to sort out but I feel fairly confident that I can get it to 350# and have an awesome dirt road ripper. It will need to be gear WAY down though
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:10 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by TerraRoot View Post

Sailah needs info on your gearing
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:25 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by sailah View Post
Kev,

I have a hobby charger this one

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cessories.html

It works great. Does not come with a power supply but I just hacked an old laptop power supply. They also balance the cells in the pack. I don't know enough about these packs to say for sure but I think that they use the standard balance plugs you can get from hobbyking. You don't need to balance charge every time just once in awhile.

The charger will do every battery chemistry from li ion, nimh, nicd, pb etc, plus you can adjust the volts and current. They all look the same and seem to di the same on that site so I'd just get the turnigy one seems well liked for $23.
Thanks a bunch

BTW....I agree with your comments on the battery - it almost feels like the case is empty it's that light and it's SO small compared to my old one. Any tips on keeping it going (this is my first Li battery for this kind of thing) - the instructions said NOT to trickle charge it (IIRC) and as I don't use my Husky year round, what should I do when I take the bike off the road (I normally trickle charge all my batteries in winter).

Thanks again....sorry for the hijack
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:57 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
Sailah needs info on your gearing
good god man that ain't mine!

mines much worse



it's a rat but the rat guys won't let me join there club, some sort of irrational fear of magnolia or something. spent whole minutes hand painting it with a bog brush an all...

@ sailah: looking at a stock yz it should be further forward, but i think maybe you have it right after all, the engine is alot heavier so moving the rider back a bit would help a lot.



didn't spot the really bent frame first time around, must be blind, perhaps you could make one of the spars bolt on to help with getting the engine out? a few 80's bike had that arrangement.
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Old 10-27-2011, 09:53 AM   #95
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You're correct it's not exactly the same spot as a yz450 but way forward of where acbr was. It's comfortable I'll put it that way which is why I went high bend bars so I'm not stretched out.

With a tank there you are going to be even further back, which is why I started from scratch and cut the whole thing off. Many times in these custom builds it makes sense to scrap what the factory did and make your own. Like the subframe, suspension etc. if you have tools to make it better. Too often you fight with the factory setup and make compromises that you shouldn't. That frame spar being a goodexample. Took maybe an hour to make, isn't beat to shit and now I have something to mount a skidplate to. I might find it unworkable due to pegs, but it frees up the imagination.

I'd love to see the ninja guys work up a real swingarm to get full travel but that means getting rid of the subframe and making a bunch more work. It's just a question of time money tools and skills I guess. Nothing wrong with the ways guys have done it so far, but I think the next level of these excellent ninja platforms is doing what I'm doing on the rear end coupled with that sweet 650 motor. It may very well be my next build. I think the potential of the ninja platform with weight reduction and custom fab has that bike under 350#.
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:01 AM   #96
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Thanks a bunch

BTW....I agree with your comments on the battery - it almost feels like the case is empty it's that light and it's SO small compared to my old one. Any tips on keeping it going (this is my first Li battery for this kind of thing) - the instructions said NOT to trickle charge it (IIRC) and as I don't use my Husky year round, what should I do when I take the bike off the road (I normally trickle charge all my batteries in winter).

Thanks again....sorry for the hijack
I don't think you need to do anything with these batteries as they don't bleed like lead acid do voltage wise. They say not to store them at full capacity more like 70%. I plan on taking mine out and leaving it over the winter then in the spring charging it back up and run it. Buy that charger I have for $23 plus a set of balancing leads and find any old 12v power supply and you'd have the last charger you'll ever need.

If this battery works out, I'll replace the fz1 which weighs 11# with one that weighs 1.48#. in the interest of weight reduction, not a lot of easier ways to shed 10#. Other than not being a fat ass, but hey
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:57 PM   #97
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Aren't these new batteries amazing? I dumped a 14 pound boat anchor battery for this 2 pounder I'm using on the BMW.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:34 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by sailah View Post
I'd love to see the ninja guys work up a real swingarm to get full travel but that means getting rid of the subframe and making a bunch more work. It's just a question of time money tools and skills I guess. Nothing wrong with the ways guys have done it so far, but I think the next level of these excellent ninja platforms is doing what I'm doing on the rear end coupled with that sweet 650 motor. It may very well be my next build. I think the potential of the ninja platform with weight reduction and custom fab has that bike under 350#.

You were supposed to be that guy... i remember a pic of a black ninja in the back of your truck, i was all set to watch it unfold.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:57 PM   #99
sailah OP
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You were supposed to be that guy... i remember a pic of a black ninja in the back of your truck, i was all set to watch it unfold.


Yeah well the police sirens cut that party short.

I called him today just to see what happened to it

Here's what was left with the detectives making sure no one got hurt

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Old 10-29-2011, 01:04 PM   #100
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Finally got some solid time on the CBR today. Started on the underseat tank. Basically plating in the subframe. Should stiffen it right up and get max capacity. I tacked the panels in place while it was bolted up to prevent the inevitable creeping. Welded the long runs off the bike.









My welding is improving. Hard to tell if it's the new welder or technique or maybe both. Getting good penetration and puddle flow. I was planning on using the small torch but ended up using the 26.

For the welders (and hopefully some welding critique)

0.090" 3003 alum panels
1" sch 40 6063 pipe for the subframe
3/32" 5356 filler
AC balance set to auto
132A on the panel (pretty much flooring it the whole pass)
Pulse set to a little faster 1/sec



The brakes for this project are driving me nuts. I've gone down every avenue from 310mm to 320mm rotors, radial calipers, mounts, Ducati calipers etc.

Without having the wheel in hand (soon) it's hard to know what will work. I'm leaning to just spending the money and getting a dedicated supermoto caliper which won't require a bracket. I bought a KTM 320mm rotor from a 640 that was unused and looking to get a Beringer 310 rotor. I don't think the Ducati calipers are going to work without extensive modification both in spacing the rotor out (not a good idea) and shaving the caliper to clear the spokes (also not a big fan)

There's a supermoto setup in the flea market complete with forks, shock, brakes but uses a radial mount caliper. It would be great if I could convert my dirt fork to a radial mount or maybe they make a bracket.
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Old 10-29-2011, 04:23 PM   #101
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I had a KTM 640 SM with the 320 rotor and Brembo, worked well.
It would clear the 19" alloy rim (DL-?) OK, but the 21" spoked Adventure rim would have required the caliper to be clearanced by 2mm to clear the spokes. Dunno if that helps.
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Old 10-29-2011, 06:19 PM   #102
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I bought some Ducati Multistrada calipers hoping I could make them work. Pretty much no way without spacing everything away from stock. Plus I would have had to grind the calipers to clear the spokes. so then I was looking at 4 piston supermoto calipers and rotors, but feck me those are pricey. And add in a master cyl...

I bought a few 320mm rotors of various flavors to experiment with, and my 640 wheels should be here this week.

One of the goals was to be able to easily adapt a supermoto setup as I want to hotrod this bike for trying to keep up with some buddies in WV. If I made the stock setup so custom, that means I would also need to do the same work on the sumo wheels. And it was getting pretty ghetto with spacers.

So basically I was just spending money on stuff that would have always been a crap shoot.

Then this little fella came into view.



Its a KTM SMR supermoto setup with radial brakes, billet master cyl and a nice set of 17" wheels with rotors, sprocket etc. The forks are standard KTM SMR units along with the shock. The idea here would be to swap everything in the pic for what you have on your KTM thumper and have a trick sumo setup. Since I don't always want to swap everything, just the wheels, the only limitation from what I have is to be able to get a radial brake caliper to work on my dirt bike forks. They make an adapter for lug fork bottoms to mount a radial caliper. Sweet, problem solved!!!! And I'm justifying the purchase by getting the sumo wheels at the same time.

So now I'll have sweet brakes for all the setups, a basic sumo setup with just a wheel swap, and a full on sumo suspension with wheels for the ultimate twisty performance.

This just blew the budget right the hell up. But it will be sweet....
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Old 10-29-2011, 07:19 PM   #103
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Having done this before with a YZ250F sumo/dirtbike.

I find it easier/quicker to swap the forks with the wheel and brake caliper already than messing with the front wheel. On my bike, to swap the front wheel it was:

1. take out axle
2. take off dirt wheel
3. take off caliper
4. take out brake pads
5. put on front sumo wheel
6. put on front axle
7. put on caliper spacers
8. put on caliper
9. put on brake pads

to swap forks it was
1. take off front master cylinder
2. loosen fork pinch bolts
3. slide whole dirt assembly off
4. slide in sumo forks and wheel
5. put supermoto MC on bars

My issue was that I couldn't remove the caliper from the sumo set up without taking the pads out. That lengthened the process considerably. Your issue is going to be debating if you want to swap the shock out as well. You might find yourself not swapping too often, then having two distinct set ups is the way to go.
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Old 10-29-2011, 07:31 PM   #104
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I basically wanted it for the wheels and the brake setup. The forks and shock were a bonus. If I changed it twice all summer that would probably be a stretch. But swapping the wheels out with the pull of an axle would be nice.

Trying to find one caliper that could do both duties is a plus. I just did not want to be swapping all that crap. Plus the radial setup looks hawt.

I don't know why I keep buying cheap random crap that I think I can adapt to my projects. Raise your hand if this sounds familiar

"Hmmmm (surfing ebay) I can make that work. Hey, it's cheap too..."

"Wonder if buying the right part for 3x would be worth it. Nah, you've got a lathe and a tig welder just make it work"

"Fuck me sideways I just spent an entire day jerking around with this stupid rotor and it still looks ghetto"

"Hi, Motostrano, you got a 320mm rotor? Oh really it'll be here tomorrow? Yeah , its a Mastercard..."
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Old 10-30-2011, 06:10 PM   #105
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[QUOTE=sailah;17187848

One of the goals was to be able to easily adapt a supermoto setup as I want to hotrod this bike for trying to keep up with some buddies in WV. If I made the stock setup so custom, that means I would also need to do the same work on the sumo wheels. And it was getting pretty ghetto with spacers.
This just blew the budget right the hell up. But it will be sweet....[/QUOTE]

shoot, what are your buddies running? what kind of hp/weight ratio are you aiming for? a hotrod sumo thumper is 60 hp 270#? your bike will be 100hp + 350 pounds-?

you must run with a fast crowd

is the smr wheel cush drive, too? cool stuff

your heading for something like this with twice the hp, i guess
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