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Old 10-18-2011, 05:04 PM   #16
bigalsmith101
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Crows Nest on the Stahlratte.

I'd call it 16-17 meters at best. It comes from Experience.




And a jump. Panama:

http://s979.photobucket.com/albums/a..._nest_jump.mp4



Guatemala:



Belize:



USA:




Sorry for the spam. Hope your bike runs soon!

--Alex

bigalsmith101 screwed with this post 10-18-2011 at 05:11 PM
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:03 PM   #17
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Shaun-
Glad to see you've hit the road, when we were in Panama in August it was pretty plain that you didn't want to be there. It's nice to see that the people on this forum have had time to help you with your "incessant questions" though they're not running an advice/logistics business or getting paid for it. Maybe you should look in the book. Good luck with your battle story!
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Panamericans View Post
Shaun-
Glad to see you've hit the road, when we were in Panama in August it was pretty plain that you didn't want to be there. It's nice to see that the people on this forum have had time to help you with your "incessant questions" though they're not running an advice/logistics business or getting paid for it. Maybe you should look in the book. Good luck with your battle story!

Sorry, but that gets a +1 from me.
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:27 PM   #19
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I can`t say that business was your calling in life mate. I was one of those pesky little customers paying you money and asking those "incessant questions" earlier this year.

I too am glad to see that the rest of the Adv community is considerably more helpful and interested in your "battle story" than you were in ours.
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:45 PM   #20
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I can`t say that business was your calling in life mate. I was one of those pesky little customers paying you money and asking those "incessant questions" earlier this year.
That's exactly why I left, my heart wasnt in it and both me and the business suffered because of it. I quit my old job after wanting to leave it for 3 years. With Panama Passage - it took a few months for me to realize I needed to leave. I did my best to keep my spirits up and help when I could though I was pretty checked out at the end.

I was also there as a volunteer - I didn't profit from that venture at all other than gain experience and a good base of Spanish.


And it was more than just Panama Passage. Panama itself chewed me up and spit me out. People really enjoy it passing through or vacationing - but I didn't enjoy Panama and I let it get to me. I started turning into a Panamanian and that's no good.


That being said I apologize for not being the best host that I could have been. I wished I hadn't let my emotions affect my professionalism. If I can make it up to any guests who felt they got the shaft let me know. At the very least the beers on me when we meet along the road...
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:22 PM   #21
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Dropped the bike on at KTM in Medellin and found a bed to sleep in. I ended up at the Ram Hostel which is nice and new, but empty and sterile. I emailed a buddy in Panama (BajaRider2000 here) because he mentioned staying at an executive hotel that was closed and offering good deals.

I got a hold of him and he picked me up and brought me to this amazing house, 11 suites with private bath, LCDs, maid service, breakfast - run by a crazy red neck ex coastguard. Two rules. Don't fuck his wife and don't fuck his maid, though he then added that we weren't allowed to bring any trannies to the house either. Check.


Checked on the bike the next day and they told me that other than the kickstand which was out for repair - the hbike was pretty much fixed. I asked them what they did. They changed the plug which I had already done, and cleared two codes from the ECU. TPS Sensor, and dead battery. Though the weird thing is that thew cose that showed up when the boke broke down - injection Manifold Pressure too high or too low was not in the ECu. Also - they cleaned the injector - and I suppose they did a better job that the injector shop in Cartegena.


I go over to give it a test ride and it fires up fine and rides nice.^ take it out for a short 20km trip and hav eplkans for a longer ride to see if the issues pop up again.


In the meantime BajaRider hooks me up wiht one of his friends who is also in Medellin, he moves to the executive hotel. Merlin who was on the Stahlratte with me shows up in Medellin, and he moves into the executive hotel. At this point - john the owner calls his hotel a flophouse for broke motorcycle riders. He spends a day helpinbg up fix various things with our bikes. Kyle get snew fork seals put in as he cleans John's AR15...







At this point I have my bike back and I go for a little ride to blow the cobwebs out of the exhaust. I head to Santa Fe de Antioquia and my GPS leads me through the old road - which is up and down, left and right and takes about 2 hours to get there- versus the new road that takes 45 mins. I'm thrilled....




My headlight fuse blows right into the ride so I Know I have to get back before dark. I head out from Santa Fe around 4 and expect to be in town around 5 though I promptly get lost and roll onto the property around 630 just as its getting fully dark. I return the bike to KTM and they look for any short, can't find one and replace the fuse. I test ride it some more and the fuse holds so I'm crossing my fingers.


At this point im excited to get going, I was supposed to start riding 2 weeks ago and its time to get on the road. I say goodbye to my new friends and plan on heading to Rio Claro and meet up with Angelica and Arnaud, a Mexican French couple riding 2 up on a 650 Vstrom whom I Met on the Stalhratte.


I hit the road at noon and head to Rio Claro - a short 3 hour ride. I'm stoked - the road is sweet, up one pass, no trucks and a perfect supermoto road. I'm worried about the weight of the luggage but it quickly dissapears as I get used to the new load.


I get to Rio Claro and head into the Sanctuary - they have cool rooms with hot water and I grab a room and wait for my friends to show up. I'm told you can go swimming and there's a 8 meter jump. I go check it out and meet a couple kids who want to film me doing osmething stupid. OK - I try a gainer and land it - though bothing about it is elegant. Video incoming....


Ang and Arnaud show up and we head down for dinner - tomorrow I head into Heje Cafetero - Salento to be more exact. I met a cute little Irish girl in Medellin (no photos) and we made loose plans to meet at The Plantation House.....


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snohobo screwed with this post 12-12-2011 at 07:07 PM
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigalsmith101 View Post
I'd call it 16-17 meters at best. It comes from Experience.
Ludwig says its 20 though who really knows. He said I should clal my mom first and let her know that she's cleaning up the blood if I land on deck. Love your jumps - seeing a pattern...
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:01 PM   #23
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Rio Claro - Salento

Hit the road today about 9am. Said bye to Angelica and Arnaud as they were headed to Medellin to get a skidplate, rad protection and figure out how to raise the bike. >They are seriously scrapping about 40 times a day.

I head out towards Honda and by looking at the map I know im looking at a boring ride - at least for while. I'm right, its 100kph for two hours or so until I get to Honda. I ask a cop for a good place to eat and he recommends a restaurant. I park the bike in front and order the lunch of the day. Its awesome. While Im eating this guy starts washing my bike. Apparently thats worth about 1000 pesos or .50 cents. I tell him not to get water in the exhaust and he shoves a bag in there.



I ride to a small town where I encounter my first real choice. Take one road to Ibague or another to Manizales. I ask the gas station guy whats the best way to get to Salento from there and he says the mot direct is Ibague - its a bit shorter and faster. Oh - what about the road to Manizales? He mentions that's its full of curves and climbs very high, and its longer. Great - I tear off for Manizales.

Hes right - the MT60s are fully scrubbed in and im scrapping pegs on some of the steeper switchbacks. I climb and climb and keep climbing. I start to remember that altitude equals cold - and im getting cold. All my cold weather gear is in the bottom of my dry sack in a compression sack - but luckily for some reason I remember that my rain jacket is closer to the top. I grab it.

I reach the top - some 4000 meters and stop in a little village to check out the view and talk to some kids. half the village comes out and talk to me. Most think Im crazy for doing this kind of trip. The kid wants to get on the bike.



My license plate (not) for the Colombian transit police...



The kid



I suspect that im doing a mountain pass and that ill start to decend soon but im wrong. The road follows the ridgeline for quiite a while. Im still having a blat and this is the kind of road Ive been wanting to ride for a while now. I hit a couple patches of rain earlier and rode through them quickly. I was a lot warmer then and the rain dried off. Now its starting to rain and its not warm. Im cold and I pull over to find my pants. Put them on and get back on the road. Now im fogging up and cold, and its raining hard and im 100 kms from Salento . This is the first time I experience discomfort while riding. I don't have waterproof gloves though make a mental note to at least get dish washing gloves to put over my current pair.

Its raining hard now, and its foggy, but im enjoying myself. I find a car thats driving at a good sped and relax riding behind it. Its easier for me to follow a car in this kind of weather.

I stop for coffee and see this...



I reach Santa Rosa and stop for cigarettes, and am approached by a bunch of guys that tell me about Kumix. Its frothy milk, with soda water, honey and a milo top, and its pretty good. They joke that there's breast milk in it too and that it will give me a raging boner. Awesome. I ride off - with no Kumix boner but i'm pleasantly satiated and ready to hit Salento.

I roll into Salento at dusk and ask for the Plantation house, find that they have a safe place for the bike and a bed for $10. The place is great, the people are cool and the atmosphere is awesome. I haven't checked out the views yet but im ready for a cup of coffee and a shower. There are quite a few neat travelers, and a couple cute girls to talk to. Sweet. Glad I had some of that Kumix.
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:14 PM   #24
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Spent two full days in Salento, first day was spent walking to a coffee farm and getting a tour with a few other backpackers from the Plantation House. Mark from Germany, Aline from Germany and Angela from Victoria, BC. We tried walking but ended up getting a ride on the way down in the back of a pickup and a ride on top of a larger dump truck hauling sand on the way up.



Here's John Elias - and Don ELias, the notorious coffee farmer in Salento.




Day two was spent in the hostel getting poured on for 8 hours. And I mean heavy heavy rain. It was neat, we played cards, drank coffee, wished we could curl up on a couch, made some food.



I propositioned an English woman to share a private room with me and she agreed. I blame it on the Kumix.


I got ready to leave day three. Pic of me with my two new friends, Angela and Aline. English girl left already...




I had met a moto club in Medellin and they had planned on soending a weekend doing day rides and hanging out in Montenegro. I hadn't heard from them in a few days but I was still intrigued in meeting them and hanign gout with them for a few days, riding roads I probably wouldn't have known about, .


The ride to Montenegro was short but fun, I arrived an hour in but really wanitng to ride more. Called my medellin guy and he told me to sit tight and he would call me with the address of the farm. 30 mins later I wanted to ride too bad, and decided to blow the weekend and head down to Cali. PLan was to show up at Casa Blanca in Cali and see what the deal was.


Unfortunately the road form Armenia to Cali is new, straight and boring, I maxed out going 135, but mostly kept it around 120kph. Which is basically the comfy max for my bike. I could have chnaged gearing but don't want to lose that snappy 690 low end....


Arrived in Cali and found Casa Blanca in the GPS under the Colrut maps. Rode straight there to find is a bit cold and empty of motorcycle riders, I renmembered that Kyle and David, two friends from China who bought 2 150s in COsta RIca on a whim and are traveling Sout - are supposed to be in Cali.


He answers and give me directions to their hostel in San Antonio - supposedly a cool neighborhood in cali. With bad directions and a dead phone it takes me one hour to finally find the place. They have room for me and room for the bike, and Kyle and David are there - so I'm pretty stoked.


We hit the town and head to a Salsa COMpetition, watch peoplestrut their stuff and David wants to. Check out a Salsa club. We find a place that was recommended called COmarga, its looks like a whore house, minus the whores. Lots of open space, cheap chairs, bad music and blacklights. They only serve beer in pitchers for 20,000 pesos, The guy brings the beer and the pitcher is half full of foam. I tell them guy that we paid for a pitvcher of beer, not half fom. He says if he puts more hbeer in - the foam will overflow..... ALso - there are ice cubes in it. I think its too much effort to show him how to pour a pitcher correctly - and they probably know what they are doing, saving half a pitcher and chargiing for a whole one. Overpriced beer - just like whorehouses!


We leave and I hit the sack - time to explore Cali tomorrow.
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:30 PM   #25
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Time to get the F out of Cali, not feeling it. Not feeling cities in general so this is no surprise. I got a call from Angelica and Arnaud yesterday - they blew through Cali and slept in Popayan last night. My plan is to meet up with them and head to San Augustin. I've heard good things about it. Small little colonial cities with archeological sites, cocaine farm tours, and a great twisty road. After that the plan is to ride to Mocoa and then take the Death Road back to the PanAm to cross into Ecuador.

This is me saying bye to Kyle and David as they take off for the Amazon...




I hit the road early and get to Popayan around 9am.


Park the bike in a no parking zone and lean it on a lamp post - my kickstand broke this morning....




Meet Arnaud and Angelica (french mexican couple who are riding 2up on a 650 vstrom). Apparently the-ir plans are not to ride to San Augustin - but to start heading to Ecuador and stay at Lagna La Cocha, a small fishing village on the shore of Ecuador's largest lake. I guess there was a miscommunication on the phone last night. - but it probably has something to do with the fact that we were speaking spanish - and its f'ing hard to understand on the phone for me.


Moreover - Arnaud was warned by friends from Bogota that Mocoa is a red zone and really the only place no one should go to if they can avoid it. I think of me kidnapped, and then I think of my mom - and how I did tell her I would be careful. We ride to the Laguna instead. I love you mom...


The ride is boring but we finally make it. The last hour was twisty godness but at this point I expect pretty boring riding as we run to Ecuador.


We get to Laguna and its a trip - we find a little downtown with two guesthouses and about 34 restaurants offering TROUT. Were in rainy low season so its dead, we are literaaly the only 3 foreigners in the little town. We head back to the main road and look for a hotel with a view of the lake. We find three and pick the shabbiest one. Good call - its empty and we have a run of this family house. Two rooms and an amazing trount dinner. We turn in early.


View from the back of thre house overlooking the lake.





Time to run to the border and sleep in Otovalo - the artisan town a few hours across the border.


We hit the border at 11am. Its cake - exiting Colombia takes 5 mins - entering Ecuador takes about 15 for the passport stamps and 30 for the bikes. Standard procedure - copies of title, passport and DL, no insurance requirements.


I manage not to punch out a money changer. I just quit smoking and really can't handle being asked if I want cambio 43 times. We leave the border and hit a small restaurant. 1/2 chicken and some chicken broth with feet - $2. Love it.


We hit Otavalo 2 hours later, find a cool little hostel with parking, pay $11 each which we find expensive and head into town to check out the market. I find a gym and go for a workout. I've commited to look for gyms when I have a few hours, if I'm not too beatr from riding. If I stay 2 nights in a town - then I hit a gym on the full day. By the way - I've hit about 3 gyms and all 3 have had photos of Arnold when he was young. Its almost a guarantee.


Dinner is chicken, corn and liver at the market for about $2.50. Love it.


Tomororw - bedtime, get my kickstand fixed, and we head to Banos for a few days of massages and soaking....


Xoxo
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:13 PM   #26
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Great ride report! I know Christian well and am headed to Panama this week. Sorry we won't get a chance to meet.
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:52 PM   #27
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Mother fuck!

I Just spent 45 mins writing up 4 days of RR and wanting to select all andcopy to save it just in case, I copied all and accidentally hit 4 instead. There's no undo feature on this app in using and I lost it all!


Oh well, live and learn, ill write it better the second time around.


Otavalo, I bought a wool blanket form the market. I'm told that everything on a bike trip should have tow purposes and this will be a blanket for warmth if I need it, a blanket to lay down on when I want to take a nap mid ride, and a butt pad. My Renazco seat is really comfortable but its still a supermoto and this is still a 690 and after some hours I get sore. I even wear padded mountain bking shorts to help.


$20!





I also go find a welder to fix my kickstand that broke a few days ago. The guys in Medellin made it too long and too swoopy so it had excessive load and broke. This guy reinforced it with rebar and added some bends to it. Not bad for $5 but now its too upright so ill have to get someone else to shave a 1/2 inch off some other time. If I didn't spend half my free time looking for solutions to bike problems I'm not sure what I would do. Probably write more.






We head to Quito - and im pretty sure its an uneventful ride. We stay two nights in La Posada de Maple in La Mariscal.


I stopped drinking when I was 2 mother fuck it happened again ! Third time is a charm. The first two write ups sucked I guess, and im getting used to using this nook to write RRs on.


I stopped drinking when I was 25 - I had too much and I'm better when I don't. I did it with the help of Alcoholics Anonymous. I usually go to about 5 meetings a week back at home - and haven't been to any on the road. I feel better when I do so I hit up the website and found a local spanish meeting close to my hotel. I went over there and had a agreat experience - I got to share about my sobriety in Spanish. I felt great leaving that meeting and will try harder to make more meetings Its hard on the road but its worht the effort.


Had I not stopped drinking - I wouldn't be here right now. I never would have had the courage to leave my old job, travel some, move to panama and plan this trip. I was stuck in a loop of fear and now I'm free. I'm pretty gratfeful.


The next day is spent looking for someone to repair my mirror which was broken on the Stahlratte - I found a metal shop that lathed me a reverse threaded mirror rod and welded it to the existing rob. $10. I also found some water proof and wind proof overgloves for my Revit gloves - which are a lightweight glove. That coupled with silk liners makes a decent 3 season glove.


I reach out to Alex (
No Job, No Responsability no better time than now) if he needs anything from Quito because we had planned on swinging by Azoques to see him. He says he needs a master cylinder for his brake but that hell manage with local resources.

We head to Banos - its a little hot spring spa town south of Quito. The ride was uneventful though my blanket keeps my ass warm so I'm happy. I wired some headphones in my Arai and am listening to mixes my buddy gives me - I'm stoked.


We get to Banos and we find a hostel- I go hunting for a gym. Its important for me to hit the gym - I'm not into hiking and I like the way working outmakes me feel so I make a point to go about 3-4 times a week. Its pretty easy in small latin towns - most have one and the price is about $2 to workout. I'm down with that.


We hit the town - grab a hookah and talk about he benefits of lowsiding vs high siding, pooping while vomiting, and aweosme life stuff. We hit a Kareoke bar lots of old scary women, its not my scene so I go home and vedge out. The next day is spent at the spa.


For $42 I get a steam bath, mud bath, massage and internal cleansing (nice word for enema).


The enema was rad because the girl administering it was yound and cute. I love dropping trouser and have a cute girl shove water up my ass. At one point the hose pops out and water goes everywhere - funny. She says 1 liter is good but 2 is best so I'm up for the challenge. I hit the bathroom and I'm happy I brought my kindle and catch up onsome reading. Things exit my body for 1997 so I'm happy.


We go looking for Guinea Pig because its a speciality - we plan on making grilled cheese ad guinea pig sandos. We find both cuy and goat cheese and both disgust and delight our hostal owner with our new creation. We sdhare with her and she loves our Guinea Pig a la Franceses.


We head out early to ride to Azogues - the road to Rio Bamba was destroyed by a recent volcanic eruption so I'm happy on the supermoto. Half dirt half paved I try to remember that rubber side down is best and that I have 15,000 kms to go.








The MT60s are rocking my world - I have more exp with the Distanzias but I'm happy with the MT60s - not sure how long they will last though I plan on reupping the rear in Lima in a few weeks, and grabbing a pair from the states when I head back to Orlando for Christmas with the fam (leaving bike where I am and flying out for a week). Ill take that opportunity to load up on parts and bring two tires back as luggage.


We wake Alex from his vedge fest and have ice cream and coffee. He informs us that the two pretty girls are sick and probably won't come. Out tonight but that doesn't stop me from shaving my balls and hoping for the best.


I hit the gym though Arnold isn't present and I'm bummed. We go out with ALex to one of his chicken places and catch up since Panama Passage, hear stories about his riding buddies, plot on how to get him out of Ecuador before 23 more days, and have a good time. Then we go to the garage and talk bikes, tie guinea pig legs to our handlebars and promise to wake him in the am before we leave.


I spent 2 hours writing this ride report 3 times. Without pictures for now and ill add them in a bit later because my Nook is being difficult and while I appear to have 4 bars of wifi - my internet connection sucks.


Big hugz
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:05 PM   #28
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I propositioned an English woman to share a private room with me and she agreed. I blame it on the Kumix.
No surprise there.

Your trip is turning out to be pretty damn interesting.

P.S. Its Phil by the way.
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:41 PM   #29
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Updated post #25 with a few photos
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:48 PM   #30
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Updated post #27 with photos
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