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Old 10-17-2011, 08:56 PM   #196
Xcuvator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post
yes the best fix is changing out to handlebar mounted BMC.... but really want to stay original.
thanks for very much for your generous offer. but solution is either new correct seals or a new brake master cylinder.

logic says hydraulic seals should survive brake fluid. if that's the case I can match up new seals at a local hydraulic repair supply shop. if hydraulic seals will not work, then I'll dig up new natural rubber material and cut out my own seals. or maybe I should stump up and pay the $400 for a new brake master

since a solution is needed for anyone with a leaky under tank BMC... should would be nice to figure one out. really gripes me to be forced to buy a $400 cylinder over a $5 seal.

edit: after talking with a seal place... what's needed to survive brake fluid is PBR or Poly Butadiene Rubber
If you want to keep a bike like the 90s stock, I think that is a good thing.
The best way to fix the master cylinder is to have it sleeved with stainless or brass and put new seals in it. There are anumber of shops in this country that have done this work to quite a few airhead cylinders. If you google R90S World Net, they have a guy on the East Coast that everyone there likes. Costs $100-125. I had it done on one of my 90S bikes by a shop in Seattle but don't recall the name of the shop.
With all those tools and shop equpment why not do it yourself?.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:42 PM   #197
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Originally Posted by Xcuvator View Post
If you want to keep a bike like the 90s stock, I think that is a good thing.
The best way to fix the master cylinder is to have it sleeved with stainless or brass and put new seals in it. There are anumber of shops in this country that have done this work to quite a few airhead cylinders. If you google R90S World Net, they have a guy on the East Coast that everyone there likes. Costs $100-125. I had it done on one of my 90S bikes by a shop in Seattle but don't recall the name of the shop.
With all those tools and shop equpment why not do it yourself?.
thanks my cylinder bore is in great condition, thank goodness doesn't need re-sleeved. no problems lathing out cylinder, but sourcing material for one liner would be all but impossible. you'd have to purchase several 10ft sticks to get supplier to sell to you.

hydraulics works great, just that seals between plastic tank and cylinder are not available.
nitrite orings installed didn't survive brake fluid for long resulting in brake fluid dumped all over frame. what a mess!

did a bit of digging... hopefully sealco can match up PBR rubber seals that should survive brake fluid. then I'll be back in business.

getting a 37 years old bike reliable enough to tour is going to take some effort...
spare parts along with a fairly complete tool kit will be carried.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:36 AM   #198
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I'm sure the seal supply here in town could get the proper size. Let me know if you need any help.

I don't have the application chart handy, but think Viton should work.
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:39 AM   #199
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If it was me, I would convert to the later (and better) style, but keep the original to go with the bike at a later date....
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:19 PM   #200
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thanks for all the help everyone!

really want to stay stock so are willing to spend extra time to achieve reliability without changing original equipment. now that I know PBR rubber is the key to holding up under brake fluid. matching up correct seals should not be a big deal. I've got precision punch dies and can make correct seals if need be.

now my starter stopped working ..have not tracked down problems yet. but a new relay, voltage regulator, new brushes, etc will be replaced regardless. plan is to carry most of the replaced parts for spares.

speaking of reliability... is my goal of getting a 37 year old BMW reliable enough to tour anywhere realistic?
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:34 PM   #201
Wirespokes
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speaking of reliability... is my goal of getting a 37 year old BMW reliable enough to tour anywhere realistic?
Very definitely! Emphatically YES!!
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:36 PM   #202
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Quote:
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speaking of reliability... is my goal of getting a 37 year old BMW reliable enough to tour anywhere realistic?
Absolutely. Many of us on here rack up big miles on our airheads. They're very reliable once you know them well and stay on top of your maintenance. When they do break down, they're incredibly easy to work on.
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Old 10-18-2011, 08:59 PM   #203
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When they do break down, they're incredibly easy to work on.
And normally give you gobs of warning. They rarely leave you stranded.
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:07 PM   #204
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Quote:
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speaking of reliability... is my goal of getting a 37 year old BMW reliable enough to tour anywhere realistic?
Quite.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:12 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post

speaking of reliability... is my goal of getting a 37 year old BMW reliable enough to tour anywhere realistic?

If they routinely traveled around the planet 37 years ago, why not now? Countless people jump on them and ride a few thousand miles on these old bikes w/out much more than fresh fluids, tires, etc. (assuming the bike is in good repair).

Given your attention to detail and assuming the tranny, etc. weren't filled with water for 30 years I think your goal is entirely realistic. Granted, stuff will still break but that's part of the deal.

I won't tempt fate, but I can confidently say that plenty of folks have ridden airheads 100K or more w/out ever walking or trucking their bikes.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:54 PM   #206
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More engine paint evidence.... I know your serial number looked familar and after wracking my brain for weeks, it came to me.

There is a really great web site (link below), and the host notes he is trying to track down his 1974 R90S again, that is number 39 (your is 41, right?). Anyway, here is the picture of his bike and the link to his page:

Quote:
I've lost track of my old 1974 R90S. Does anyone know who the current owner is? Here is a photo of what it looked like when I sold it. I KNOW that most R90s's look alike, but mine was serial number 4950039, and the fellow I sold it to lived in Northern NJ. Any info appreciated!
http://www.beemergarage.com/wanted.html

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:07 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post
thanks for all the help everyone!

really want to stay stock so are willing to spend extra time to achieve reliability without changing original equipment. now that I know PBR rubber is the key to holding up under brake fluid. matching up correct seals should not be a big deal. I've got precision punch dies and can make correct seals if need be.

now my starter stopped working ..have not tracked down problems yet. but a new relay, voltage regulator, new brushes, etc will be replaced regardless. plan is to carry most of the replaced parts for spares.

speaking of reliability... is my goal of getting a 37 year old BMW reliable enough to tour anywhere realistic?
Cy.

I went through the same thing with my M/C on my dual disk /6.

At the time I sent mine off to be rebuilt, and got it back and just reused the old seal underneath. The rebuild kit does not contain the o-ring you need anyway. So far so good.

I enquired via the Airlist email tech list about the bottom o-ring and was told by many that it was unavailable, and just reuse the old one. This was by many listers in North America BTW.

So - if you can get them made or source them, many here would be very interested indeed.

Again, as I mentioned previously, you will probably find the calipers will need looking at as well. Mine were had it - pistons would not return properly.
Just my 2c.

Cheers

OZ.
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:29 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oz_airhead View Post
Cy.

I went through the same thing with my M/C on my dual disk /6.

At the time I sent mine off to be rebuilt, and got it back and just reused the old seal underneath. The rebuild kit does not contain the o-ring you need anyway. So far so good.

I enquired via the Airlist email tech list about the bottom o-ring and was told by many that it was unavailable, and just reuse the old one. This was by many listers in North America BTW.

So - if you can get them made or source them, many here would be very interested indeed.

Again, as I mentioned previously, you will probably find the calipers will need looking at as well. Mine were had it - pistons would not return properly.
Just my 2c.

Cheers

OZ.
waiting for a new brake master cylinder kit to arrive before tearing into it again. main seals are holding fine, but don't want to go back in again. want to be done with hydraulics.

hopefully will have a solution using PBR seals for the tank to cylinder seal problem. IMHO not making seals available is done to force folks to purchase new brake master. after brake fluid pukes all over your frame and expensive electrical relay. one is ready to shell out $400...

have NEVER in my life ever been part of a project with NO discount on parts from anyone. this includes folks who claims to have lowest prices on Earth for BMW parts... after comparing prices with Bobs BMW and several other sources. for the parts I checked on... found everyone was within pennies of FULL BOAT DEALER RETAIL PRICES.

not used to paying $20 for a set of what looks like Bosch points with a longer lead. a normal set of Bosch points for most German cars would be closer to $5. brake pads that costs $32 per side ($65 for aftermarket pads) compared to dealer list of $75 per side or $150 for a set of freaking brake pads.

good grief... most automotive brake pads for both sides are $20-30 set. it does not cost any more to mfg brake pads for BMW motorcycles.

was in the import parts business for a number of years. we matched up hydraulic parts routinely, when seals were no longer available from any source.

generating an ATE automotive parts listing to BMW motorcycle ATE cross reference.
now that's a project that sorely needs to be undertaken.
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:37 PM   #209
Ben Carufel
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I'm surprised that no BMW motorcycle dealers are willing to sell parts at wholesale. I suspect that as soon as one did, a number would follow...

In the BMW car world, dealers such as Tischer BMW (getbmwparts.com) in Silver Spring, MD discount to wholesale for any old joe who wants to order online. In fact, BMW motorcycle parts work in their online motorcycle parts database (I just tried 34111236005, an R65 front brake rotor) and they do reflect wholesale pricing, but I've never tried ordering BMW motorcycle parts from them...maybe it's worth calling to find out, as the rotor for instance is $360 from MAX, $288 from Tischer...

I was hoping that I could put a big parts list together for my R65 cafe build and email it to a few online BMW parts dealers and say "Here, what's the best price you can do on this $1000+ order?". Might not do me a damn bit of good, though.
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:47 PM   #210
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And on that note, I just sent them an email to ask if they can sell BMW motorcycle parts at wholesale. I suggest that anyone else who is interested in saving 20%+ on parts send them a message as well. You can email them directly at:

getHelp@getBMWparts.com
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