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Old 10-09-2011, 01:13 PM   #16
xavier296 OP
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Exhaust

So, next project was exhaust: The bike came with stainless steel headers to hoske silencers.


I like the look and sound of the hoske mufflers, but they were very rusty on the inside. Someone had occasionally cleaned the outward sections of the pipes, but they were toast on the inward parts.

I attempted to clean the silencers, but all it did was scratch the chrome, so I gave in to new mufflers. New Hoskes are 450 dollars, so I bought some shorties from Dimecitycycles. They also carry longer versions, but I think the shorties look good. Before putting it all back together though, I spent about 6 hrs working the SS headers. It turns out that stainless still corrodes if heated, and these were BAD!! Note these pics were taken after a pretty good initial cleaning:




I started with 000 steel wool, then 00, then red scotchbrite, then I just gave in to sand paper. Some sections took as much as 60 grit paper, then I progressively moved up to 800 grit, then buffed with red compound.
Before and after Comparo pic:


I made some L brackets from the supplied brackets to mount the mufflers to the original mounting location. It came out looking very good:


I have run the engine since installing, and the new mufflers have a heck of a bark. I haven't actually driven on the road yet, so I will report back on the final verdict.
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Old 10-09-2011, 01:23 PM   #17
xavier296 OP
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Powerlet

You might have noticed in the above picture, that one of the additions I made might not be very "cafe" like, but it sure is helpful:


Right behind the shock mount on the left side is a powerlet connection. I used a 12" fused connector wired straight into the battery. This allows me to run a battery tender and maybe a heated vest in the colder months! When closed, it is practically invisible.
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I welcome any and all couch surfers if you are traveling through Augusta. I even have a well stocked garage for emergent repairs.
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Old 10-09-2011, 01:48 PM   #18
xavier296 OP
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Front suspension

I am starting to catch up. Last week was front suspension rebuild. The right fork was leaking from the fork seal and had managed to cover practically everything with a nice coating of oil and dirt. I also wanted to remove the black paint from the forks and install the new billet fork brace.
Teardown:






Installation of the triple clamp means you have to cut .65 inches from the headlight ears, and it took me many many many hours of work with aircraft stripper, a scrapper, and metal polish to prepare the forks. I hate those forks lowers


I did a quick search, and just happened to have a 36 mm socket. I have no idea when I bought it, but I think it was for a rotary engine motor build I did a few years ago. I used the socket and some socket spacers inside to allow me to put pressure on the fork caps while installing them.


In general I was impressed with the ease of installation of everything. No real lessons learned except that putting the new fork seals in the freezer made installation much easier.




The bike came a CC products fork brace, but it just didn't seem to fit correctly. The front of the fender stuck up very high . I think it is made for the earlier style forks. I purchased a used brace and fender from an 83 RS, and really like how much better it fits around the tire. I am going to cut down the fender, but haven't decided how much yet:
Before look:


After with correct brace. You can also see the lower forks now have the correct rubber lower fork tops. It used to have the older style fork tops on the new style forks. Much better:


New reflectors are in the mail. Mine weren't perfect, but turns out that aircraft stripper eats plastic.
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I welcome any and all couch surfers if you are traveling through Augusta. I even have a well stocked garage for emergent repairs.

xavier296 screwed with this post 10-09-2011 at 01:54 PM
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Old 10-09-2011, 02:08 PM   #19
xavier296 OP
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Final drive ???

I will do a full writeup of the rear suspension coming apart, but I have a question:

How screwed am I???

Rear wheel coming off:




I have no idea how long this has been collecting inside there. And it doesn't drip consistently. Actually, I have only seen one drip hanging off the whole time.
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Old 10-09-2011, 02:33 PM   #20
danedg
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Toilet bowl cleaner?


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Old 10-09-2011, 06:06 PM   #21
Wirespokes
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Maybe it's the spline lube seeping out? Is the final drive fluid low?

BTW, the blue front fender is on backwards.
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Old 10-09-2011, 06:34 PM   #22
DoktorT
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The more I look at it, the more that tank looks too big. Don't need that much fuel for a cafe. Thinking more like a small /6 tank or a toaster would be more practical and make the machine look 20 lbs lighter. A narrow Benelli tank is used for lots of UJM cafe builds. Room for clip ons. Got any Benelli's in Italy?

That is a very trick tank, and if you market that right it could pay for some extra project goodies.

When you get it all back together, get lot's of photos before you get any road dirt on it. It won't be that clean again for a long time.

You can live with the weepy drive seal long enough to get some miles, shake it down. Budget for seals and drive spines fixing in a year or two. Just monitor the lube level and spline wear. Keep a wrag handy to wipe up a pesky weep now and then.

DoktorT screwed with this post 10-09-2011 at 06:55 PM
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Old 10-09-2011, 07:43 PM   #23
boxerboy81
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The drive splines look ok to me (not sure about the wheel side due to poor detail)...at least for many 1000's of ks yet. The oil could just be too much lube, or the wrong type..use a moly...or the seal is kaput.

Changing the seal isn't a huge job, just fiddly. You'd need to protect the seal from the splines during the install. A coke can fits good. You'll also need the wider cover gasket for the job.

I'm not a fan of the bars. Too many angles.

You're sure moving along at speed and it's looking good. Being in Italy, ebay.de will be a great source of bits and pieces I'd've thought. What are local suppliers like?

boxerboy81 screwed with this post 10-09-2011 at 07:56 PM
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:30 AM   #24
Houseoffubar
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You Sir, are one productive S.O.B.! Keep up the good work!
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:01 AM   #25
xavier296 OP
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Addressing above posts

Toilet Bowl cleaner has bleach in it, so I thought it might work to brighten up the white gelcoat. I researched online and many boat owners use it to clean the fiberglass gelcoat. The seat cowl will be painted, but for now it looks much better after wiping a thin layer all over the white, letting it sit for 45 seconds, then wiping off. Before you could see where every sticker had been, it was much whiter under the sticker. Now the whole surface is uniform.

I haven't checked the fluid level in the rear lately. I will, but the grease on the wheel and under the seal does not seem very wet. I will probably order a new seal and gasket for later installation.

I looked at that front fender for awhile, and it doesn't surprise me that it is on backwards. I really still can't see it in the pic, what is the tell tale sign? It will be cut down anyway, but knowledge is power, you know.

I have grown to love the bars, and haven't even started to adjust them to fit me better. The chrome is also very hardy, it is one of the few things on the bike that hasn't started to pit or rust. I buffed the handle bar mounts before installing them, and man do they shine when given some attention.

I removed the rear brake lever to buff, but it seems to be anodized. It is yellowing badly wherever it was close to the exhaust. Should I buff it anyway or just clean it and leave it?


There is another problem. The flange for the tranny to driveshaft boot is pretty hosed, and has been repaired before. I don't know what I am going to do with it:
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I welcome any and all couch surfers if you are traveling through Augusta. I even have a well stocked garage for emergent repairs.
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:08 AM   #26
xavier296 OP
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Italian supplies

I forgot to answer one question: Italian suppliers. The BMW shop can get me anything I want, but usually the parts cost the same in Euro as in dollars in the states, so I just order them in the states. We have the awesome military mail system, and this allows US mail to cost the same as any Priority mail package sent in the states. There are also no customs fees.

I ordered a few things from Siebenrock in Germany, but VAT(tax) is very high and shipping to my Italy address is a pain. They don't deliver to the door like in the US, you have the go to the hub(a pain) and convince the person to get your package (a bigger pain). So, in other words, almost everything comes from the states.

Maxbmw ships very quickly and charges almost nothing for shipping priority, so I use them for the small bits. And more than a few inmates have helped me out with some items.

When I head up the Germany at the end of the month to take the BMW enduro course, I will stop in Stuttgart and pick up a few more things from Siebenrock.
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Recently Completed: 79 R100RS
Build Thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=732078
I welcome any and all couch surfers if you are traveling through Augusta. I even have a well stocked garage for emergent repairs.
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:44 AM   #27
DoktorT
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[QUOTE=xavier296;17039861]
I haven't checked the fluid level in the rear lately. I will, but the grease on the wheel and under the seal does not seem very wet. I will probably order a new seal and gasket for later installation.

Clean the splines just like you been doing everything else. Shove a shop towel into the space below the spline. Now spray parts cleaner. Soak up the residue, repeat several times. Use Honda Moly 60 half/half with red grease. A thin coating is much prefered to too much.

I looked at that front fender for awhile, and it doesn't surprise me that it is on backwards. I really still can't see it in the pic, what is the tell tale sign? It will be cut down anyway, but knowledge is power, you know.

Just look at the curves and pinstriping at each end. The front is more rounded than the rear. I saw that instantly after seeing Wirespoke's call it out.

I buffed the handle bar mounts before installing them, and man do they shine when given some attention.

I removed the rear brake lever to buff, but it seems to be anodized. It is yellowing badly wherever it was close to the exhaust. Should I buff it anyway or just clean it and leave it?

Yes, buff that just like the bar mounts.

There is another problem. The flange for the tranny to driveshaft boot is pretty hosed, and has been repaired before. I don't know what I am going to do with it:

Clean it like the splines, all greasy gone with non residue cleaner. JBWeld all the cracks. Prep the boot sealing surface with abrasive to get a good surface again. Drive on. When time for tranny rebuild, replace the rear plate.
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:33 PM   #28
Bluffskier
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I like that FD, was thinking of going with that style cause of the lower gearing/looks but was unsure of how it would mesh with snowflakes and the rear Brembo disk set up. Looks like it meshes up nicely!
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:42 PM   #29
Wirespokes
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I'm not a big fan of the bars due to their angularity, but they make a lot of sense! With the stock bars the only way to adjust them (besides rotating in the mounts) is with a torch.

As for the fender - the more squared off end goes to the bottom, and the pointer end points the way.

Rather than chopping up the fender, why not install a cool stainless or aluminum one?
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:24 PM   #30
danedg
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I know somebody that can weld that back together for you....when it's out of the bike.
Do what ze Doktor recommends....


Clean it like the splines, all greasy gone with non residue cleaner. JBWeld all the cracks. Prep the boot sealing surface with abrasive to get a good surface again. Drive on. When time for tranny rebuild, replace the rear plate.

I had a /2 tranny cracked like that.
Fixed her up good and she's fine until it all gets torn down again. If you can track down a spare, the cost is about the same...
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