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Old 12-21-2011, 02:50 PM   #76
subagon
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Second tire from the left looks like a match

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Old 12-23-2011, 07:39 AM   #77
xavier296 OP
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Fork caps

Neat tires, even if you were just trying to take a poke at my color!!

Question:

When you torque the fork caps to their high torque level, is the high torque being exerted on the forks themselves or on the triple clamp?

I am working on the positioning of the forks as I reinstall them, and need to know if pushing down on the aftermarket San Jose Triple clamp is necessary. My Triple doesn't have the lip to place them.

I see that Toaster Tan says that high torque is not necessary, would that be true for this application also?
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:47 AM   #78
subagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xavier296 View Post
Neat tires, even if you were just trying to take a poke at my color!!
All in good fun

If I was going to pick a color tire, I think I'd go with a contrasting yellow with the blue wheels.

Keep the updates coming!
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:09 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xavier296 View Post
Neat tires, even if you were just trying to take a poke at my color!!

Question:

When you torque the fork caps to their high torque level, is the high torque being exerted on the forks themselves or on the triple clamp?

I am working on the positioning of the forks as I reinstall them, and need to know if pushing down on the aftermarket San Jose Triple clamp is necessary. My Triple doesn't have the lip to place them.

I see that Toaster Tan says that high torque is not necessary, would that be true for this application also?
Matt Wiley from Racetech also confirmed that the 80+# was unnecessary for the SJ triple that I have. He suggested in the 35# range.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:45 AM   #80
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To ensure the height is right, slide the axle home. There should be no resistance.
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:11 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xavier296 View Post

The stainless was perfect timing, as it allowed me to change over a few bolts and then push through to get the front end on. First I installed the rotors on to the wheels. The inner section of each rotor needed to be sanding down to thin out the powdercoat. The new stainless rear rotor bolts were also much longer than the original ones, so I reused the originals. They had been zinc coated anyway, so they should give me good service.

Results of the day:

You might want to think long and hard before you bet your life on those SS rotor bolts!

I used a pile of SS fasteners on my build but there were a couple of places where my professional friends warned away from switching to Stainless and the Brake Rotor and caliper retaining bolts were two of the biggies. I replaced my grungy, well used rotor nuts and bolts with genuine BMW replacement parts. They fit perfectly and I have complete confidence in their integrity at any speed and in any weather.

Have fun but be careful about tossing critical parts. You're going to be putting your life on the line every time you ride that bike and you're going to want some peace of mind when you're rolling 100+ and you grab the brakes.

PS: Because of the difference in the way the forks are retained by the after-market top triple clamp, you need much less clamping force. I torque mine to about 40# and call it a day. You also might consider dropping the front end in the clamps by 1/2" or so. Your bike will turn-in much better!

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Hawk Medicine screwed with this post 12-23-2011 at 12:33 PM
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:10 PM   #82
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+1 on the stainless. It is not safe in critical applications. Plus it galls and strips like a mofo. I hate the stuff. Stainless is for boats. Beware of titanium fasteners in critical applications too! Not safe!
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:17 PM   #83
Hawk Medicine
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Originally Posted by supershaft View Post
+1 on the stainless. It is not safe in critical applications. Plus it galls and strips like a mofo. I hate the stuff. Stainless is for boats. Beware of titanium fasteners in critical applications too! Not safe!
Thats pretty much true.

I use a generous dab of anti-seize with almost all of my SS nuts and bolts. So far I've had no problems but I try to be careful.
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:34 PM   #84
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fasteners

I would not recommend s/steel for any high load areas, have attached a link to chart that has some figures but there will be loads on the net that will spec fasteners and torque loading's, when you look into it there are many differences between what just looks like a bolt. not only material but things like plain shaft, hole tolerance, thread pertrusion and thread form to name but a few, but if in doubt fit a genuine manufactured item for that position.

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-in...ade-Chart.aspx

Ps bike looks great

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Old 12-24-2011, 04:29 AM   #85
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Thanks for the answers and links. The front SS rotor bolts were purchased specifically from northeast cycle works as "high strength", but I do have freshly blasted originals that have been black zinc coated. I reused the original rear rotor bolts after they were zinced. The shock bolts are also "high strength" stainless.

About the fork caps, is the 35 ft lbs being exerted on the triple or on the top of the stanchions? Meaning if I have the forks sticking above the triple, and the caps don't touch, is the clamping force from the Allen's enough?

Alright, back to enjoying Paris. Happy Holidays everyone!
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I welcome any and all couch surfers if you are traveling through Augusta. I even have a well stocked garage for emergent repairs.
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Old 12-25-2011, 12:25 PM   #86
supershaft
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High strength stainless? Compared to steel that has carbon in it? Why do you think they put carbon in steel?
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:12 AM   #87
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I used some attractive ss bolts on my r100RS once. New nyloc nuts too.
One bolt unknowingly fell out, presumably broken?
The caliper movement that ensued led to this.

The resultant failure of the front brake happened at a T intersection...I almost rode straight thru, after managing to avoid the back of a bus. Lucky day that one. The previous day I was coming home via some twisty roads, but thick fog slowed everyone down. Lucky the failure didn't happen there, as it probably would've had the bike been on the gas a wee bit more.
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:58 PM   #88
xavier296 OP
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Wow, that picture is worth a thousand words. I am pretty sure I will reinstall the cleaned up old front rotor bolts. I didn't purchase SS bolts for the calipers, and all the rest are for non load bearing/critical areas.

I am curious about the claim of "high strength." I will take a look at the different bolt head markings and see what I can find. I am sure they are a different alloy.

I bought a new valeo from EME. It is amazingly light compared to the Bosch. It also has the added benfit of the solenoid being farther from the end and farther from the timing cover. This should make installing the + battery wire much easier.
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I welcome any and all couch surfers if you are traveling through Augusta. I even have a well stocked garage for emergent repairs.

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Old 12-27-2011, 02:18 AM   #89
simonboxeproject
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fasteners

This is a link to some high strength stainless steel fasteners.

http://www.fera.org.uk/pdf/Fera%20se...-%20Bulten.pdf

may be of some interest.
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:58 AM   #90
Wirespokes
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The stainless with the least amount of nickel is the strongest. It'll be somewhat magnetic and will corrode, but not nearly as much as plain steel. It'll also clean up fairly easy - but it won't have the resistance to rust like some of the shinier stainless alloys.
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