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Old 10-12-2011, 10:33 AM   #16
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We're only on day 4? Time for me to crank up some tunes and get this thing moving along...

Day 4 – Caineville, UT to Cannonville, UT

Starting a few miles short... again. The target today was northwestern Arizona, and we almost made it. "Almost" only counts in horseshoes, hand grenades, and adventure riding.

Having skipped our last scheduled fuel stop the night before, we awoke to the typical continental waffle breakfast and planned our route west from Caineville to the next fuel stop in Torrey. I looked out the peephole and yes, the bikes were ready for another day.



We'd pass through Capitol Reef National Park on our way to Torrey for fuel, and head south from there through Boulder, riding on Hell's Backbone to Escalante, then take 12 to Cannonville where we'd hook up with some dirt again.

The ride through Capitol Reef was spectacular, even if it was pavement.





The scenery was cliffs on both sides while the road paralleled a lush creek. There were scenic spots, petroglyphs, etc., though we didn't stop for any of that at this particular point.

Once in Torrey, Byron reminded me that my rear tire might not make it the entire trip. He'd already placed an order for a new Dunlop 908 for his bike at Champion Motorsports in Vegas. After fueling up, I made a similar call and made sure they had a Dunlop 606 for the rear. They did and I informed them we'd be rolling in late tomorrow or early Thursday.

The housekeeping was out of the way and now it was time to ride. We headed back from whence we came on hwy 24, with plans to take dirt from Capitol Reef National Park, south to Boulder.

After hitting the road in Capitol Reef, however, we saw a sign that said "No through road". Hmm. Was there no way to punch through to Boulder from here, or was this sign just pointed at tourists with rented RVs?

We stopped in to the visitor center to find out.

A bright-eyed young lass working the counter informed us that yes, the road did go through, but it was 4wd only. Awesome, because you only need 1wd on a properly equipped bike. She worried us a bit with her comments about possibly navigating 20" - 36" creek crossings, but we'd at least find them and make a judgment call if we saw any.

We headed out from the visitor center, south to where the pavement turns to glorious dirt.



Let's hit it.

As it turns out, this was the only wet crossing for the entire distance of this road. Not much to look at, though the few people parked on our side of it seemed to get some enjoyment in seeing some bikes go across.



The road was varied with terrain. Most of it was rocky, with some stretches of sand... but the road in general was not groomed at all.

This spot on a short climb was a little more technical:



On this road, I had my only get-off of the entire trip, but it was a slow sandy spot and my front wheel just caught an edge and the bike got sleepy and fell over. Nothing much else to tell, but I did have to re-adjust a mirror and my clutch lever.

We hooked up with road near Boulder and stopped to put on some wet weather gear as it looked quite cloudy on the back side of Boulder mountain. As was the case for most of the Utah portion of the trip, the pavement was an unexpected blast.



Once in Boulder, we stopped at the Burr Trail Grill for some fantastic food. The burgers come from the local cows, and the homemade ketchup is amazing, even if it is a hippie town.

Out of Boulder, we took Hell's Backbone Road to Escalante. As was the case so far, any road in Utah referring to "satan", "devil", or "hell" was absolute cake and any road involving the words "trail" or "pleasant" was more technical than you'd think.

Allow me to illustrate this with a shot of Hell's Backbone. It all looked like this:



Obviously, the name refers more to the effort involved in creating it than it does to the experience of those riding/driving it. Scenic and fun, but nothing to intimidate, other than the name.

The Hell's Backbone Bridge offered a nice view.



Once in Escalante, it was time for more fuel and more pavement down hwy 12 to Cannonville.



Gee, that sun sure looks kind of low on the horizon given our current position and how far we have to go.

In Cannonville, we head south to our next dirt road, but the sun is even lower on the horizon and it's at least a 2 hour ride to our destination for the day. Looks like it's time to search for another motel.

The only one in town was booked, so we rode a few miles up to Tropic and they were all booked.

We ended up with a cabin at the KOA in Cannonville.

While I was unpacking the bike, I found that a bottle of strawberry jam I had in one of my saddle bags had exploded. Crap. The only good news is that everything else in the same bag was sealed. The bad news is it was still covered in jam. Blah. I'll deal with it in the morning. There's a public kitchen at this KOA, so I'll just rinse out everything there when I wake up.

While dealing with the exploded jam, I noticed that Byron befriended 2 women from Holland next door to us and he invited them over for a campfire. Being the happily married guy that I am, I just played wingman for Byron and tried to get the fire going. About that time, a good shower poured on us and I didn't have much luck with the fire, but that's what gasoline and lighters are for, and we had both.

By the fire, we mostly compared and contrasted various facets of life in the U.S. and Holland, discussed our family lives, and turned in to our respective cabins late that night.

We slept like babies that night... no, wait, babies don't sleep well at all. We slept like rocks that night. The cabin and supplied space heater assisted with that. Well, a little tequila and whiskey might have helped too.

"Whoaaaaaaaah, we're halfway there, Whoaaaaah! livin' on a".... sorry, had a Bon Jovi moment.

Operation "Sensory Overload" continues...
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Old 10-12-2011, 01:25 PM   #17
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Did you mount the GoPro on your helmet? Or the bike?
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperboarder View Post
Did you mount the GoPro on your helmet? Or the bike?
It was mounted to the bike, on the wind screen:



I had a mount on my helmet, but never used it. The only time a helmet mount would've been better is when shooting video. It was a little shaky for video when mounted to the bike (see the Flint Trail video linked on page 1).

Also, with it on the front of the bike, I could lean over the wind screen and make sure it was properly set up and turned on.
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Old 10-12-2011, 04:41 PM   #19
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Great route

Excellent stuff in this report
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Old 10-12-2011, 05:28 PM   #20
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Nice pics.

Keep it coming....
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:34 PM   #21
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Are all of the pics off the GoPro or did you take a point and shoot too?
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Old 10-12-2011, 08:12 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tx246 View Post
Are all of the pics off the GoPro or did you take a point and shoot too?
I took my point and shoot (Canon S5 IS) too. The giveaway on the GoPro pics are pretty much anything showing the road straight ahead (and usually the front fender).
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:25 PM   #23
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Day 5 – Cannonville, UT to Las Vegas, NV

Today will mark the halfway point of the trip, not in days, but in distance. We shoot for Vegas today from Cannonville, UT.

It was a late night...

...but I get up early and deal with the strawberry jam explosion. I have to pull the bags off the bike, empty the contents, rinse it out, rinse everything off that was in the bag (mostly MREs, a few bags of tuna, and a flashlight), and put it all back together again. Fun. Not.

Byron invites his new friends for breakfast at a local restaurant in Tropic. I notice that the restaurant has free copies of the Book of Mormon if you are so inclined. We were more interested in breakfast.

We chat for a bit and get ready to hit the road again. It cooled off quite a bit last night and is now in the 50's. We run into a guy who is a local ATV guide and he tells us they are forecasting snow tomorrow. Oh really? I think it's time to go

We head back down to the dirt road we didn't take the day before and bust it for about 30 miles before hitting pavement again near hwy 89.



The weather is really starting to turn at this point. Fortunately, the water falling out of the sky is still liquid. Instead of dealing with an imminent mud situation that now exists on the unpaved roads, we elect to stick to the highways to Vegas.

We'll stay on 89, then take a shortcut through Zion National Park, and ride I-15 from there into Vegas.

As it turns out, this was one of the best decisions we ever made.

Rolling into Zion, it went from "hmm, this place might be quite interesting", to "Holy crap, why wasn't this on our route in the first place?!"



We start cruising through Zion, trying to pay attention to the road, but is almost impossible with the scenery distracting us at every turn.

A few miles in, we see a few cars parked on the side of the road and several people with cameras pointing up at the cliffs. It takes me a few glances, but I finally see what everyone is looking at and stop to snap a few photos of my own.

See the rams?



Ok, how about now?



Once through Zion, we stop on the other side for some... Thai? Yes, Thai. Meanwhile, the bikes get continually soaked.

Say cheese.





Had I been a bit more proactive, I would've covered my seat before parking. I had a dry seat all day, even in the rain... until I left it outside in the rain without me on it. Oh well. Time for the final push to Vegas.

Ok, how about one more pic of Zion. It really, really sucks that the GoPro lens had water on it, but it makes for a good tease I guess.



Now that we've been traveling in very sparsely populated areas for 4.5 days, what could we do that would be a complete contrast to this? That's right... go to Vegas.

Time to hit the highway. 110-ish miles to Vegas on I-15.

The stretch in the far northwestern corner of Arizona was actually quite scenic. It's over a 1,000 foot drop from the Arizona side to the Nevada side and you get a great view of the valley in Nevada heading into Vegas.

We stopped in Moapa Valley to refuel and continued on I-15. Looks like more rain ahead.



Yep. Vegas is soaking wet. We must be lucky arriving on one of the few days a year this place sees rain.



We cruised up and down the strip about 5 times looking for a hotel that didn't have 50 cars out front waiting to go into the hotel. Seemed odd for a Wednesday, but I guess that's Vegas. I thought I got some GoPro pictures of the strip, but apparently the battery died within spitting distance of Las Vegas Blvd.

Anyway, we ended up at the Westin just off the strip probably around 5:30pm. We parked the bikes outside and dragged our dirty wet selves through the casino to our room. The hotel staff seemed to cringe as they put our wet gear on the carts for delivery too our room.

A little freshening up and it was time to party. We took a cab to the strip and proceeded to eat and drink until around 2am.



That's ok, all we had to do tomorrow was get up, re-pack the gear on the bikes, ride to the bike shop, have tires installed, and ride 318 miles to the Grand Canyon. No problem, right?
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:58 AM   #24
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I LUVE IT BRING IT ON GUYS
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:51 PM   #25
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Have you taken your gopro out of the box for video and pics? It works remarkably well and the fisheye is removed. Great read keep it coming.
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:35 AM   #26
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Quote:
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Have you taken your gopro out of the box for video and pics? It works remarkably well and the fisheye is removed. Great read keep it coming.
Yes, I took it out of the box for the shot of the campsite at Lake Powell. It's a little deceiving because the rock we were on was round so it still looks like it has a fisheye effect.
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:55 PM   #27
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Day 6 – Las Vegas, NV to Williams, AZ

Took our time getting up this morning. I got up early to put the "Do not disturb" card in the door so we could catch a few more Z's before going full throttle.

Once up, we headed straight to Champion Motorsports for the tire changes. This was a very cool shop. Lots of shiny stuff and fantastic service. Within just a few minutes of arriving, we pulled our bikes in and they went to work on the tires. We chatted with some of the employees, and traded adventure stories. The time went fast, and I'd say within an hour, we were out of there.

We stopped at a Greek restaurant in town (Flame Kabob) to refuel our stomachs before heading out. Had a nice view of the strip, the airport... and the impending weather.



Great. I guess we should get moving. This west-to-east system was going to follow us all the way back to Texas.

At this point in the trip, there was a little homesick-ness as I realized how far away we were. Also, the reality set in that if anything went wrong, it could be a complicated matter as I had to be at work in a few days.

It was fitting then, that shortly after departure from the restaurant, Byron's 990 threw an "FI" light and was running funny. We were now the farthest we'd be from home and didn't have a lot of time for things to go wrong. We continued riding for several more miles and monitored the problem. Shortly thereafter, it seemed to fix itself, so we pressed on. There were quite a few highway miles before we'd hit dirt again, so if the problem surfaced again, at least we'd be near civilization. It never came up again though, so we resumed with the throttle twisting.

The scheduled route today would take us on Hoover Dam, some dirt roads south of Lake Mead, down to Kingman, AZ (off of I-40) for fuel, then back up to Grand Canyon Village for the night, on the south rim of the canyon.

However, the weather had other plans. We'd been extremely fortunate up to this point, but our luck had run out the day before and now we were going to see more bad weather.

We rode over Hoover Dam, and I forget when they re-opened it after 9/11, but you just have to turn around in the parking lot on the other side, then made our way back across the huge new bridge on hwy 93 that now bypasses the dam. It was dam cool.

We split from 93 about 12 miles south of Hoover Dam and took Temple Bar rd back north towards Lake Mead.

There wasn't very must eastward progress made for a while, and the storm was growing behind us.

We stop for pictures, and I got a shot facing Byron to the south...



...and he got one facing me to the north.



I think the moral here is don't look back.

Temple Bar rd goes all the way up to Lake Mead (the area was a ghost town this particular day), and we hook up with the first dirt road after a few hundred feet of exploratory navigation trying to find the road.

As suspected, it was a little moist from the rain the day before, but offered very good traction overall.



Some of the hills had water in the low spots, but they were just puddles with mostly solid bottoms. At least.. that was my perception. Byron had considerably more weight with the 990 and didn't quite "float" across a few of them.

Lots of Joshua trees out here.



The road was advertised at 26-ish miles long before reaching a dirt highway. We were winding through hills in the desert for a while as the storm gained on us before finally making some headway east and further south.

Making our way south on Gregg's Hideout Rd...



There was a strange grid of undeveloped residential streets off to the sides of this road. It seemed odd given we were many miles from any suburbs.

Here's what it looks like on Google's satellite view... a grid of streets with nothing on them, in the middle of nowhere:



We didn't get chased by any black helicopters, so the reasoning for the street layout in this location probably isn't very interesting.

Anyway, and then there was pavement...



We headed south for Kingman on Stockton Hill rd. A dry lake bed was in view to the left most of the time. This slightly broke up the monotony of riding on a straight flat road for 20 miles.

In Kingman, we refueled and entertained some locals with our story. One of the locals was a sub-20 year old guy who was stranded at the gas station with an old Jeep he purchased 2 hours prior. Fortunately, it was just a dead battery. He was confused at why we would do such a thing as ride 2,000 miles on "dirtbikes". Byron's response was quick... "Someday you'll be a man", he says. The kid laughs.

An older guy, at least in his 60's then rolled up in his truck and chatted about his old KTM 525, but then mid-conversation told us to hang tight while he got gas and to not head out before he got a chance to talk with us more. Hmmm... ok... but that weather is gaining on us. Make it snappy or we're out of here.

A few minutes later, we rehydrated and the gentleman was ready to chat some more. With his help, we were trying to figure out a way around the weather. It seems that in the past 24 hours, everything in the west somehow turned cold and wet. Flagstaff was forecast at 27 tonight and with storms heading that way, it was going to be snow.

Well, I guess the Grand Canyon is out. Damn. We tried to re-route south of I-40, but there weren't enough opportunities to keep going east while staying south of 40. Our only alternative at this point became taking I-40 to Williams, just west of Flagstaff.

I wasn't looking forward to pounding pavement for 75 more miles, but the alternative looked even less appealing... miles of dirt/mud roads in the rain and snow, approaching dusk.

Ok, I-40 it is. It was getting late anyway.



Sure enough, just west of Williams, around dusk, we had our first introduction to snow. Fortunately, it was a short one, but it was a taste of things to come.



Finally, many cold and wet miles later, we made it to the Best Western in Williams, AZ. There were several other bikers there, some we'd seen early that day... apparently coming to the same conclusion we did.



We had a fantastic meal at the hotel and tried to figure out what this weather was all about. The hotel employees said it was fairly normal to see a cold snap like this in October, and it would probably be a lot warmer the next week. Lucky us.

I guess it could've been worse... if we'd left Albuquerque just 1 day later than we did, a lot more of the ride would've been like this and we would've missed some great stuff. All the places we'd ridden in Utah were now cold and wet and getting snow.

Not much time left now. Just watching the miles disappear until we get back to the truck. We were on schedule, but would we be able to hit any more dirt on the way home with the weather like this?
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:42 PM   #28
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Day 7 – Williams, AZ to Albuquerque, NM

Our scheduled 3 day ride back from Vegas was looking more like 2 days of pure pavement pounding. Kind of a bummer, but after seeing a lot in the previous 5 days, I don't think either of us could visualize how riding dirt all the way back for 3 days could've topped the previous 5.

The weather was just not cooperating and we still have another day of riding in the rain, 2 days of rain if we stopped again.

It was 26F at sunrise and we were in no hurry to leave while it was cold. We hit the usual continental breakfast and waited for it to warm up to a balmy 40 before heading out.

Cold and wet weather gear on, and we were heading east on I-40... again.

Approaching Flagstaff, we ran into the system that leapfrogged us overnight. Great. More riding on I-40 in light snow, which at the time seemed like the most dangerous thing we'd done.

That was until we left Flagstaff and ran into another snow system east of town. This one was more substantial.



This was going to get interesting. There was heavy blowing snow for about 10 miles and there would be no point in waiting for it, because we'd just catch it again. Nothing left to do but commit.

The problem with snow is that there are several problems with snow. Colder weather means a fogging visor, snow sticks to the visor more than rain does, it's cold, there could be ice on the road, fog inside the visor can freeze, and again... it's cold.

My strategy was to stay in the same line as Byron, leaving enough space for the possibility of a fall. If he got squirly or fell, I'd have time to react. Fortunately, that never happened.

About 3/4 of the way through the storm, I couldn't keep my visor from fogging. I could lift it up slightly, but that just let more snow into my helmet. I also had to try to keep the outside of the visor dry so the wet snow wouldn't freeze on it. On top of that, while my core was plenty warm, I was starting to feel the cold in my fingertips.

Ok... if this gets much worse, I'm going to have to stop under a bridge for a quick thaw and to wipe my visor off.

I tucked my head down, looked through the only part of my visor that was still clear, and we kept going.

Several miles later, relief. The system was south of I-40 now and the sun was back out.



Sunshine, glorious sunshine in the Land of Enchantment (New Mexico).



In Gallup, NM, we stopped at a local mom n' pop food establishment.



Our bones were cold and it felt good to warm up again. The decision was made to continue the 140 miles back to the truck on I-40. Every piece of dirt between here and there would no doubt be cold mud at this point and we'd be pushing our luck to get back in time with conditions like that.

A few more shots before leaving.

The ninja.



...and Hannibal.



Before dusk, Byron gets a few shots on the road.





Near Grants, NM, dusk finally came and while it was raining over us, the sun peeked through the clouds to the west and lit up some spectacular scenery. The sky was dark, and the low ground was dark, but the mesas were spectacularly lit with the setting sun.

Riding 500 miles down I-40 wasn't the end I wanted or expected, but these last few hours did not disappoint.

It was raining, yet again, when we reached Albuquerque. Figures.



We loaded up the truck, in the rain, and started looking for a motel. Even with the weather this bad, they were STILL mostly booked for Balloon Fiesta. We escaped east into Moriarty, NM for a motel, and had some much needed coffee at a local cafe.

Back in the room, we started copying the 2,450 pictures and 2 videos from our cameras to my laptop.

It turns out there was a lot to tell and the story was about to begin...



The entire trip in 5 minutes, 11 seconds: http://vimeo.com/30295266
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Old 10-16-2011, 05:37 PM   #29
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Very Cool

Thanks for the RR and the video at the end was great. Not a bad avatar either.
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:58 PM   #30
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'cause I like this RR!!!

Very cool, looks like a fun trip. Thanks for sharing!
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