74 Guzzi Eldorado - Page 24

danedg · 02-11-2013, 05:06 PM

CafeRacer · 02-11-2013, 05:28 PM

Lots of Loop projects on this board right now. Maybe we need a support group. Or at least a thread...

danedg · 02-11-2013, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CafeRacer

Lots of Loop projects on this board right now. Maybe we need a support group. Or at least a thread...

CafeRacer · 02-11-2013, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danedg

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862484

danedg · 02-12-2013, 04:08 PM

Most of the parts of this bike are being restored as original.
The exceptions being the Gilardoni cylinders/pistons and the brake lines to that front disc.
These Spieglers have got me sportin' wood!! Excellent workmanship!!

danedg · 02-19-2013, 04:34 PM

The good news is, the ring & pinion in the rear drive are OK. Bearings/seals need replacement but we expected that.
The bad news is the previous owner liked this bike so much he rode the crap out of it. Fully loaded, probably 2 up.

The rear drive flange and gear are all worn up, er, out...

Charley C. will replace the flange with a " good used " shortly, as part of the rear drive refresh.
But what to do about the rear wheel?
I'm left with a coupla options:
Buy the expensive new drive gear and have it installed, in the old wheel. Vewy twicky, without the unobtainable assembly guide tool...new bearings and seals.
Buy the 850T rear wheel with the good hub offa ebay. There's a couple of them out there, but they are almost expensive as all the new parts and labor, and I've got ANOTHER expensive 40 year old rear wheel that still needs bearings and seals...

or?

nick949eldo · 02-19-2013, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by danedg

The good news is, the ring & pinion in the rear drive are OK. Bearings/seals need replacement but we expected that.
The bad news is the previous owner liked this bike so much he rode the crap out of it. Fully loaded, probably 2 up.

The rear drive flange and gear are all worn up, er, out...

Charley C. will replace the flange with a " good used " shortly, as part of the rear drive refresh.
But what to do about the rear wheel?
I'm left with a coupla options:
Buy the expensive new drive gear and have it installed, in the old wheel. Vewy twicky, without the unobtainable assembly guide tool...new bearings and seals.
Buy the 850T rear wheel with the good hub offa ebay. There's a couple of them out there, but they are almost expensive as all the new parts and labor, and I've got ANOTHER expensive 40 year old rear wheel that still needs bearings and seals...

or?

I bought a very good rear wheel for my Cali from Harpers - used, but with top-notch splines and bearings, just as Curtis Harper described. At $350, I thought it was a bargain. Curtis also had some good suggestions to keep the shipping costs to Canada down to a dull roar. Good people to deal with. Now, what to do with the old one...............

Nick

danedg · 02-19-2013, 05:12 PM

Many Thanks to Gordon/Rick for providing this nice photo of what the gear USED to look like.

Curtis has been a gentleman to deal with.
I'll give him a call in the morning...

danedg · 02-20-2013, 05:24 PM

Dragged the bare block out of the corner and set it on the bench.
This thing will start to go together.
Gee.. this head bolt looks crusty and the timing chest threads and the oil pan bolts...
I spent a couple hours cleaning all threads.
Good thing too...they were really crusty.

Several of the threaded rods backed out from the block. I reseated with a blue loctite.

I'm going to follow the procedure laid out by Pete Roper on Guzzitech, thanks to Greg Bender.
Now, I'm gonna need to dig out ALL them parts...3 bins, about 75 bags!

Ruh roh.

danedg · 02-20-2013, 05:58 PM

New bearing slipped right in. Popped the oil dowel out of the old and into the new. Why have the dowel at all? It constricts the oil flow. But in it went.

I disposed of the old rubber blob tensioner and now have the Valtek type tensioner. It attaches to 2 of the 6 bearing retainer bolts. That leaves the 2 old bolt holes open that used to secure the old tensioner.
Should I plug 'em?

Here's the old tensioner

danedg · 02-20-2013, 06:17 PM

The old retainer was all used up. The new retainer has far smaller "ears" or bosses for the three securing bolts.

F_Sahms · 02-21-2013, 05:33 AM

I've never ever seen a cam retainer that needed replacing. What was wrong with it?

danedg · 02-21-2013, 05:21 PM

Did I mention I have 3 full tubs of 70 somethin bags of pretty well identified but not really well organized parts! That's been an ADV in itself! I finally found the oil pump...
And why DID? I replace the cam retainer?
Hmmm. Read through the notes on the "wear specs" that we found when the motor came apart.

Bearings Crank
Conrod bearings
Tappets
Cam Retainer Were all on the "all wored out" list and got replaced.

The fixture doesn't so much "retain" the camshaft in the case, but becomes a spacer for the cam sprocket. The wear was on the timing case side. The width of the retainer new is 6.98 mm.
The "indent" on the front was .32mm. Which added that much more float to the cam.
We could not find any specs for endplay, and it was a gut call to replace the retainer.

Set the front crank bearing. All these parts had the "retainer" strips. I set a bit of blue loctite on everything and reset the strips. It was satisfying to clinch the bolts.

I finally found the oil pump and installed that.

It involved 3 different sized Allen heads. I attached the oil pickup on the inside of the case as well as the oil pump as it sort of acts as a group. The pickup got in the way later on, but at least it's back on there.

danedg · 02-21-2013, 06:05 PM

One of several.

danedg · 02-21-2013, 06:15 PM

Yes, I remembered to transfer my oil passage dowels in the front and rear main bearings but I still can't figure out why they are there in the first place.
The whole idea is to sploosh as much oil through the system as possible. Why constrict the flow with the dowels?

02-11-2013, 05:06 PM	#346
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	__________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M

02-11-2013, 05:28 PM	#347
CafeRacer Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2006 Location: City of Angels Oddometer: 243	Lots of Loop projects on this board right now. Maybe we need a support group. Or at least a thread... __________________ Motorcycles are awesome. Yay motorcycles. http://becausegolfsucks.tumblr.com/

02-12-2013, 04:08 PM	#350
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Got a little package today Most of the parts of this bike are being restored as original. The exceptions being the Gilardoni cylinders/pistons and the brake lines to that front disc. These Spieglers have got me sportin' wood!! Excellent workmanship!! __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M

02-19-2013, 04:34 PM	#351
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Another hurdle The good news is, the ring & pinion in the rear drive are OK. Bearings/seals need replacement but we expected that. The bad news is the previous owner liked this bike so much he rode the crap out of it. Fully loaded, probably 2 up. The rear drive flange and gear are all worn up, er, out... Charley C. will replace the flange with a " good used " shortly, as part of the rear drive refresh. But what to do about the rear wheel? I'm left with a coupla options: Buy the expensive new drive gear and have it installed, in the old wheel. Vewy twicky, without the unobtainable assembly guide tool...new bearings and seals. Buy the 850T rear wheel with the good hub offa ebay. There's a couple of them out there, but they are almost expensive as all the new parts and labor, and I've got ANOTHER expensive 40 year old rear wheel that still needs bearings and seals... or? __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M

02-19-2013, 05:12 PM	#353
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Many Thanks to Gordon/Rick for providing this nice photo of what the gear USED to look like. Curtis has been a gentleman to deal with. I'll give him a call in the morning... __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M

02-20-2013, 05:24 PM	#354
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Time To Get Serious! Dragged the bare block out of the corner and set it on the bench. This thing will start to go together. Gee.. this head bolt looks crusty and the timing chest threads and the oil pan bolts... I spent a couple hours cleaning all threads. Good thing too...they were really crusty. Several of the threaded rods backed out from the block. I reseated with a blue loctite. I'm going to follow the procedure laid out by Pete Roper on Guzzitech, thanks to Greg Bender. Now, I'm gonna need to dig out ALL them parts...3 bins, about 75 bags! Ruh roh. __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M danedg screwed with this post 02-20-2013 at 05:33 PM

02-20-2013, 05:58 PM	#355
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Front Main New bearing slipped right in. Popped the oil dowel out of the old and into the new. Why have the dowel at all? It constricts the oil flow. But in it went. I disposed of the old rubber blob tensioner and now have the Valtek type tensioner. It attaches to 2 of the 6 bearing retainer bolts. That leaves the 2 old bolt holes open that used to secure the old tensioner. Should I plug 'em? Here's the old tensioner __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M danedg screwed with this post 02-20-2013 at 06:11 PM

02-20-2013, 06:17 PM	#356
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Cam Retainer The old retainer was all used up. The new retainer has far smaller "ears" or bosses for the three securing bolts. __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M

02-21-2013, 05:33 AM	#357
F_Sahms mostly paved Joined: Mar 2012 Oddometer: 203	I've never ever seen a cam retainer that needed replacing. What was wrong with it? __________________ Life's too short. F_Sahms screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 07:15 AM

02-21-2013, 05:21 PM	#358
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Excellent Question Did I mention I have 3 full tubs of 70 somethin bags of pretty well identified but not really well organized parts! That's been an ADV in itself! I finally found the oil pump... And why DID? I replace the cam retainer? Hmmm. Read through the notes on the "wear specs" that we found when the motor came apart. Bearings Crank Conrod bearings Tappets Cam Retainer Were all on the "all wored out" list and got replaced. The fixture doesn't so much "retain" the camshaft in the case, but becomes a spacer for the cam sprocket. The wear was on the timing case side. The width of the retainer new is 6.98 mm. The "indent" on the front was .32mm. Which added that much more float to the cam. We could not find any specs for endplay, and it was a gut call to replace the retainer. Set the front crank bearing. All these parts had the "retainer" strips. I set a bit of blue loctite on everything and reset the strips. It was satisfying to clinch the bolts. I finally found the oil pump and installed that. It involved 3 different sized Allen heads. I attached the oil pickup on the inside of the case as well as the oil pump as it sort of acts as a group. The pickup got in the way later on, but at least it's back on there. __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M danedg screwed with this post 02-21-2013 at 06:01 PM

02-21-2013, 06:05 PM	#359
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Oil Supply Xover tube One of several. __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M

02-21-2013, 06:15 PM	#360
danedg Horizontally Opposed Joined: May 2008 Location: U-puku-ipi-sing Oddometer: 5,294	Oil passage dowels Yes, I remembered to transfer my oil passage dowels in the front and rear main bearings but I still can't figure out why they are there in the first place. The whole idea is to sploosh as much oil through the system as possible. Why constrict the flow with the dowels? __________________ '65 R60/2 '68 R60US '74 MG Eldorado '95 R100M

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