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Old 02-26-2012, 02:30 PM   #76
danedg
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Joined: May 2008
Location: U-puku-ipi-sing
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Taking a shellacking

this shot details nicely the congealed varnish that coats and plugs everything...it's still sticky to the touch.

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68 R60US, 74 MG Eldorado,
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:25 PM   #77
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:36 AM   #78
Brunow - 007
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Sweet bike!

You can alway's put them in a ultrasone bath. Works wonders!
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:46 PM   #79
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Brunow,

Love the Bantam. Bikes like that don't just complement the history, they're part of it.

I ended up with the carb cleaner/ compressed air method. I let the varnished brassy bits soak in lacquer thinner for a while,
and blew them dry. Everything seemed to clean up nicely, and I've the gasket/seals kits coming....
I think they would most likely fire right up if I had all the planets in alignment
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:46 PM   #80
danedg
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a destra...
a lot greasier and mungbound than a sinestra...



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68 R60US, 74 MG Eldorado,
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:25 PM   #81
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:05 PM   #82
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:50 PM   #83
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Nice!
Owned and rode many miles on a G5 & SP1000.

Helped my Cousin with a super major service on his loop-frame 15 years ago.
The wheel seals were blue rubber and reused, as were the Timkin wheel bearings.
For its build date, it just ozzes quality. imo

Some guys would use special 3/8" thick valve cover gaskets to gain clearance inorder to line the inside of the cover with 3/8" cork sheet... to quiet the valve gear.

If Guzzi valves are set too tight, the engine will not idle down when hot. I know.

The Tonti framed engines have a 14# flywheel w/o the twin disc Sachs clutch installed. The loop-frame flywheel is 36#. Much heavier than the old VW flywheel.

Super fun ride. N-Joy.

OldPete screwed with this post 03-17-2012 at 06:52 PM Reason: added much
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:12 PM   #84
danedg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldPete View Post
Nice!
Owned and rode many miles on a G5 & SP1000.

Helped my Cousin with a super major service on his loop-frame 15 years ago.
The wheel seals were blue rubber and reused, as were the Timkin wheel bearings.
For its build date, it just ozzes quality. imo

Some guys would use special 3/8" thick valve cover gaskets to gain clearance inorder to line the inside of the cover with 3/8" cork sheet... to quiet the valve gear.

If Guzzi valves are set too tight, the engine will not idle down when hot. I know.

The Tonti framed engines have a 14# flywheel w/o the twin disc Sachs clutch installed. The loop-frame flywheel is 36#. Much heavier than the old VW flywheel.

Super fun ride. N-Joy.

Please feel free to share your wisdom here, anytime!
Thanx!
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:16 PM   #85
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Line 'Em Up Like This

...and your good to go!

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Old 03-17-2012, 08:03 PM   #86
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I gotta dig into the books i have in storage.
I'm sure that there is a 25yo copy Guzziology. A must have book. Google it.
If it's there, it is yours. Expect a PM in three days. (like the old tractor link)

The big issue with the generator engines is guys run'em with the mount loose and it beats the hell out of the gen's saddle mount.

Some of the early ones had no oil filter inside the sump. The crank pin has a large hole drilled in it and it's capped off with a plug.
The hollow crank pin acts to centerfuge the oil going to the rod bearing. With the sump off, the plug can be removed and the trapped stuff removed.
A lotta gray stuff... ash in the oil, it is an additive.
All Guzzis have a hollow crank pin AFAIK.

Up until mid-2002 all Guzzi crank pins/rod journals were carbon nitrited. Expensive process but made them harder than the hubs of hell.
Guzzis can loose rod bearing and the crank pin is none the worse for it. It can be cleaned off with wet or dry emery paper and not even touch the journal face.
From late 2002 the rod journals are induction hardened. OK but cheaper.

Guzzi main bearings last forever.

Check the rear wheel's cush drive... if it has one. Some of the earlies did not.
They can rust up solid to the rear hub and it causes the clutch splines grief.
A propane torch to the outside will do'er. Clean & Never Seize.

Red & Green.. "We'er in this together."
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:36 PM   #87
MZRider
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Location: Western MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldPete View Post
I gotta dig into the books i have in storage.
I'm sure that there is a 25yo copy Guzziology. A must have book. Google it.
If it's there, it is yours. Expect a PM in three days. (like the old tractor link)

The big issue with the generator engines is guys run'em with the mount loose and it beats the hell out of the gen's saddle mount.

Some of the early ones had no oil filter inside the sump. The crank pin has a large hole drilled in it and it's capped off with a plug.
The hollow crank pin acts to centerfuge the oil going to the rod bearing. With the sump off, the plug can be removed and the trapped stuff removed.
A lotta gray stuff... ash in the oil, it is an additive.
All Guzzis have a hollow crank pin AFAIK.

Up until mid-2002 all Guzzi crank pins/rod journals were carbon nitrited. Expensive process but made them harder than the hubs of hell.
Guzzis can loose rod bearing and the crank pin is none the worse for it. It can be cleaned off with wet or dry emery paper and not even touch the journal face.
From late 2002 the rod journals are induction hardened. OK but cheaper.

Guzzi main bearings last forever.

Check the rear wheel's cush drive... if it has one. Some of the earlies did not.
They can rust up solid to the rear hub and it causes the clutch splines grief.
A propane torch to the outside will do'er. Clean & Never Seize.

Red & Green.. "We'er in this together."
The first edition of Guzziology was published in 1993, not quite 25 years.

The usual reason the generator bracket gets loose in the first place is the belt is run too tight, the stress causes the bolts to fracture and/or the bracket itself to break and then the generator flops around. A new beefier bracket with an extra "leg" welded on extending back to the distributor mounting bolt and studs with hardened washers and nylock nuts does wonders to cure this issue.

The first Guzzi "big twin" with a disposable spin-on type filter inside the sump was the late 850T. V700s, Ambos and Eldos did not.

The sludge trap plug can not be removed with the crank in the engine - it has to be removed before the plug is accessible.

Guzzi main bearings "last forever" unless the owner uses automotive oil change intervals or allows the chrome cylinder bores to flake and embed into the bearings.

Eldos such as danedg's don't have a cush drive, the 850T was the first there also. My '69 Ambo has 100k miles on the original clutch, u-joint, driveshaft, coupler and rear drive (splines are worn very little). Riding like you have some brains and keeping the splines lubed helps...
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:57 AM   #88
danedg
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Being a Noob is Fun!

Getting a new bike or working on a bike you're unfamiliar with always serves to remind you that you're not the rocket surgeon you think you are...

Todays question is:
What's that big 20sumthin' mm hex head thingamabob located on the head just to the left of "A"?

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Old 03-19-2012, 06:03 AM   #89
ADV8
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eBay

Item number:110844924966

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Old 03-19-2012, 06:48 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MZRider View Post
The first edition of Guzziology was published in 1993, not quite 25 years.

The usual reason the generator bracket gets loose in the first place is the belt is run too tight, the stress causes the bolts to fracture and/or the bracket itself to break and then the generator flops around. A new beefier bracket with an extra "leg" welded on extending back to the distributor mounting bolt and studs with hardened washers and nylock nuts does wonders to cure this issue.

The first Guzzi "big twin" with a disposable spin-on type filter inside the sump was the late 850T. V700s, Ambos and Eldos did not.

The sludge trap plug can not be removed with the crank in the engine - it has to be removed before the plug is accessible.

Guzzi main bearings "last forever" unless the owner uses automotive oil change intervals or allows the chrome cylinder bores to flake and embed into the bearings.

Eldos such as danedg's don't have a cush drive, the 850T was the first there also. My '69 Ambo has 100k miles on the original clutch, u-joint, driveshaft, coupler and rear drive (splines are worn very little). Riding like you have some brains and keeping the splines lubed helps...
TY for the corrections. Really.
I only did serious work on one loop-frame as noted.

I know because of poor venting or seal issues, gear oil can get transferred from trans to rear end.
John Swartz THE Guzzi guy here is SoCal years ago recommended that i add a couple of ozs. of gear oil into the swingarm at the rubber boot.
The heating & cooling cycle draws oil into the u-joint plus the splines like it.

Crankpin trap? Yeah, i cleaned two cranks out but they were out of the case. Thought one could get to it in case but i'm wrong. Its been a long time ago.

Lack of cushdrive? I guess the 36# flywheel really saves everything down stream from hard engine pulses.

dan, i'll be digging that book out today. It is an early edition. At one time Richardson would give a refund on a newer edition if the old copy was returned.
I have no idea if he really did any serious up-dates for the early bikes.

PM me your mailing address. Even though they are heavy, books mail cheap.
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