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Old 09-10-2014, 11:05 AM   #1
fat pat OP
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Reviving old thread... 1971 R60/5

well, it has been a while. since this thread last fizzled to a halt, i've bought/sold a few bikes, moved to argentina, china, back to california, and now to concord, mass. throughout my travels and time spent with other, functional, motorcycles, this r60/5 sat patiently in my garage in san diego.
but when the time came to move to concord, the bike had to make the trip. so i am now determined to get this bike on the road by springtime.

first challenge, removing the exhaust header. left side is free, but the right is stuck. i have been alternating between penetrating oil and heat, and pounding the header with a 2x4 where it curves away from the head. very slow going to say the least.

any advice on freeing this thing?

as always, any advice/help greatly appreciated.
thanks,
pat

link to original thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=339902&page=5

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Old 09-10-2014, 11:37 AM   #2
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Remove the cross-over pipe. Make sure the clamps are really loose. Whack on the back of the head pipe directly with a plastic dead blow hammer while wiggling it back and forth. It should come loose. Whack hard.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:40 AM   #3
disston
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Is the problem getting the exhaust nut off, it seems to be frozen to the head? Or the nut is off and the header pipe is not coming out?

If it is the nut, cut the nut. Cut it with a hacksaw, one place so it will release from the threads. The nuts get stuck on the threads of the head and they will take the threads with them when you finally get the nut off. Much better to sacrifice the nut before damage is done to the head. New nuts are available. New threads on the head are much more expensive.

If the nut is off and the pipe is stuck you seem to have the right idea. You may have to sacrifice the cross over pipe.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:45 AM   #4
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nuts are off. ironically, i had to cut the one on the right side, but the left one came off with some heat.
i'll try to get both sides disconnected from the crossover, but they appear to be rusted solid. it sure seems like this would be easier if i could rotate the header.
many thanks,
pat

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Originally Posted by disston View Post
Is the problem getting the exhaust nut off, it seems to be frozen to the head? Or the nut is off and the header pipe is not coming out?

If it is the nut, cut the nut. Cut it with a hacksaw, one place so it will release from the threads. The nuts get stuck on the threads of the head and they will take the threads with them when you finally get the nut off. Much better to sacrifice the nut before damage is done to the head. New nuts are available. New threads on the head are much more expensive.

If the nut is off and the pipe is stuck you seem to have the right idea. You may have to sacrifice the cross over pipe.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:56 AM   #5
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i have been whacking it with a 2x4...and i'm not small. i think the crossover will have to go.
thanks,
pat

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Originally Posted by garthg View Post
Remove the cross-over pipe. Make sure the clamps are really loose. Whack on the back of the head pipe directly with a plastic dead blow hammer while wiggling it back and forth. It should come loose. Whack hard.
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:44 PM   #6
Renner
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Pat,
go ahead and cut the crossover.
replacement is easy and inexpensive (sink drain pipe).

-Scott
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:06 PM   #7
fat pat OP
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thanks, renner. as soon as i get home...hope all is well with you.
best,
pat
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Old 09-10-2014, 01:58 PM   #8
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all's well, thanks FP.

Regarding the sink drain/down pipe I should add that the fit is so close that it can be a go or no-go depending upon the manufacturer, so measure close before buying ...or maybe even take the exhaust pipe into the store for a fit-check against their stock.

We found one here at Home Depot that was nice and snug, no slotting or clamping necessary, just cut to the required length.

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Old 09-10-2014, 01:59 PM   #9
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thanks; i'll bring the remnant with me.
pat
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:38 PM   #10
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Victory at Sea

cut the crossover and had both headers out within 15 minutes. thanks for advice.

next up, i want to drop the oil pan:



looks pretty nasty.
1. am i better off doing a surface clean of the grime on the engine block first?
2. any thoughts on what that stuff is? i'm thinking leaking oil from the pushrod tubes has dripped down to the oil pan and collected a lot of road debris and baked on.

thanks,
pat
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:13 PM   #11
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I think you are better off cleaning as much of that crap off a you can before you open the engine case. I don't think at this point any return to a natural unblemished Aluminum is needed. I scrape caked on shit like that first with wooden sticks, popsicle sticks work great, then what ever cleaner you have. A second step with WD-40 works great too. The stuff is much better for cleaning than for lubricating. By cleaning the dirt off before opening the case hopefully you can keep the dirt out of the engine case.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:19 PM   #12
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thanks, disston. this is not going to be frame-off deal. just want to get the mechanicals right and keep the patina. i think a lot of that will come off with scraping...maybe a paint scraper. i also have some wooden shims that would probably work a lot like the popsicle sticks.
pat
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:00 AM   #13
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Toilet brush works great in tight areas.


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Old 09-12-2014, 08:39 AM   #14
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thanks. did a few minutes last night and need to get some wd40. will add a toilet brush to the shopping list.

on the bright side, i drained the transmission oil and it looked great. very little material on the drain plug magnet.

thanks,
pat

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Toilet brush works great in tight areas.


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Old 09-12-2014, 10:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Toilet brush works great in tight areas.


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My /7 looked like that when I got it and I wanted to preserve the patina too...

I used engine degreaser, mineral spirits, garage floor degreaser, purple all purpose degreaser from Walmart, a toilet brush along with several other brushes combined with rags and a lot of elbow grease and patience to remove the grease.

Then I used aluminum brightener from Napa Auto parts and a tooth brush working a small (3' X 3") area scrubbing, rinsing drying and scrubbing again to get the result I was satisfied with.

IMHO...It was worth the work.







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