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Old 03-14-2013, 07:17 AM   #151
Airhead Wrangler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naginalf View Post
You can also adjust the bottom out level with a spacer behind the hydraulic stop right? I haven't opened mine up yet to learn it's dark, mysterious secrets. I will this weekend tho .
There's a PDF file I linked to in the first post that discusses how to both shorten the forks as well as revalve them for an F650 which is similar in weight. Worth a read:

http://crossroadz.com.au/F650GS/Modi...orkNotesWP.pdf

Also, here's WP's service manual for the 4860s so you can get a preview of what's inside before you crack them open yourself:

http://slorider.com/KTM/manuals/WP4860MXMA2003.pdf
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:40 AM   #152
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Personally, I plan on doing both lowering in the trees and lowering with a spacer, so thanks Prutser for reminding me to check the bottom out measurement.

Also, being from 2003, that manual may need some revision for newer models of forks. For instance, Kelvin mentioned that one of the manuals (not sure about this one) had the oil filling method all wrong unless you are working on 5060s which is where it was copied from apparently. If so, check Slavens vid on the matter, he has it right.

Thanks for posting that again AW. I had glanced at it once before a long time ago, but hadn't noticed the valving guide. One thing I'd like to nitpick about that however, it specifies a midvalve float of 1.5mm. From what I've read about the 990s, which are closer in weight (480lbs), 1.5 is stock and WAY too much float. Most seem to have better luck with more like 0.8mm of float.
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naginalf screwed with this post 03-14-2013 at 08:00 AM
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:03 PM   #153
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Kinda quiet in here...

how's things going in upside down land?
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:30 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by ontic View Post
Kinda quiet in here...
No kidding. Am I the only one who's actually put one together yet with the R-dubb triples?
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
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Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:27 PM   #155
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I only did a mock up. Convinced that they would work well, but I wasn't confident I'd get them set up right before the big trip. Just finished riding on the HH-Racetech inserts through Mongolia. Pretty happy, but still a long way to go! R-Dubb triples will have to wait for Battle Panda 2.0

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Old 07-10-2013, 10:42 PM   #156
Clay Spinner
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As soon as the next batch are completed I'll be fitting two pairs to my bikes... so that will make two (?!) of us. I'm hoping you sort out all of the problems first though... so crack on mate!
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:27 AM   #157
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Originally Posted by Clay Spinner View Post
I'm hoping you sort out all of the problems first though... so crack on mate!
Apart from some forks that need a rebuild, zero problems with mine, but I only have 160 miles on them, so we'll see. My forks feel incredibly stictiony at a standstill when pumping them up and down, but the stiction is barely noticable when riding. I'm pretty sure it's just a matter of buying cheap forks straight off ebay and putting them right into service without even so much as opening them up to see what's inside. I've ordered new bushings, seals, wipers and oil to rebuild them next time I'm up north. The spring rate didn't feel too far off if at all. I might be able to get away with the springs I have.
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.

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Old 07-11-2013, 08:04 AM   #158
naginalf
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I would have had mine installed by now, but I got stuck in a hell of constantly waitng for parts. I asked for an unorthodox service, and I was promised, enthusiastically even, all the parts and advice that I needed to rebuild these forks. Well, not only did that not happen, but I guess I was just cursed this spring because my order for a new rear shock got lost in the shuffle as well, and I had to wait 13 weeks for that as well. Once I got the rear shock, I finally gave up calling for more excuses and no action on the fork parts. They are now in Alex's capable hands over at Konflict. 2 more weeks , I can't wait! It'll probably end up being the same price or cheaper anyway and I don't have to worry about screwing it up. But the latest event in my curse came when I rebuilt the used wheel I bought; the damn rim was way out of true, had several flat spots, and the spoke nipples under the protection strip were completely rusted. I couldn't check for true or possibly correct it because the bearings were slammed in shipping (single wall cardboard, no padding at all), so I couldn't check it until I replaced them. So now I need a new wheel, damnit. Arg. I JUST WANT TO RIDE !

Does anyone have any experience with the warp 9 wheels? It'll cost me $200 for a new rim, 70 for spokes and hardware, another 100 for building it up, and the warp 9's are only $360 for a whole new wheel, but I've read mixed reviews. Or should I risk buying another used wheel?
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naginalf screwed with this post 07-11-2013 at 08:55 AM
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Old 07-12-2013, 08:03 PM   #159
bgoodsoil
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Quote:
anyway and I don't have to worry about screwing it up. But the latest event in my curse came when I rebuilt the used wheel I bought; the damn rim was way out of true, had several flat spots, and the spoke nipples under the protection strip were completely rusted. I couldn't check for true or possibly correct it because the bearings were slammed in shipping (single wall cardboard, no padding at all), so I couldn't check it until I replaced them. So now I need a new wheel, damnit. Arg. I JUST WANT TO RIDE !
I feel your pain, man. I've lost 2 months to waiting on parts this summer already.
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:37 PM   #160
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EDIT

I posted the note below in the wrong thread (working from my phone) so just ignore it. Sorry AW!



Hyperpro is doing suspension evaluations here at the national really and looked aver my G/S. The front suspension has enough friction that small pushes down on the handlebars actually has no effect on the front at all and makes the (undesprung) rear shock bounce.

The tech told me the stiction is common to these forks and suggested replacing the seals with one from from HKC, which are apparently very low drag seals. He also thought the springs may be too soft as well.

The low speed damping on my rear Ohlins isn't working and the spring needs more preload at best and a stiffer spring at worst. The shock will require a rebuild to deal with the lack of low speed damping.
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Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.

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Old 07-19-2013, 01:21 PM   #161
naginalf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
Hyperpro is doing suspension evaluations here at the national really and looked over my G/S. The front suspension has enough friction that small pushes down on the handlebars actually has no effect on the front at all and makes the (undesprung) rear shock bounce.

The tech told me the stiction is common to these forks and suggested replacing the seals with one from from HKC, which are apparently very low drag seals. He also thought the springs may be too soft as well.

The low speed damping on my rear Ohlins isn't working and the spring needs more preload at best and a stiffer spring at worst. The shock will require a rebuild to deal with the lack of low speed damping.
Did Alex use SKF seals on your forks (are they green)? Those are much better than stock, which is why the stiction is so common, as you can see in this video.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:25 PM   #162
SOLO LOBO
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Originally Posted by naginalf View Post
Did Alex use SKF seals on your forks (are they green)? Those are much better than stock, which is why the stiction is so common, as you can see in this video.
SKF, that's what they said. Thanks.

I'll check the color of the seals later today or when I get home...don't know what's in there
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 07-19-2013, 01:57 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO View Post
SKF, that's what they said. Thanks.

I'll check the color of the seals later today or when I get home...don't know what's in there
The SKF seals are not made in the WP50 sizes.
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:14 PM   #164
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Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
The SKF seals are not made in the WP50 sizes.
Maybe you could find a way to make Marzocchi 50mm USD seals work??
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R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
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Old 07-19-2013, 02:33 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
Maybe you could find a way to make Marzocchi 50mm USD seals work??
That might be an option but the outside diam of the WP sliders could be to thin to make a bigger outside diam seal fit.
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