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Old 04-23-2013, 11:10 PM   #331
Capt. Egregious
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Originally Posted by X1Glider View Post
The XR650R, an already kick ass bike, would be even cooler with a Christini drive! Talk about DS heaven.
Christini XRR, that would be so freaking awesome!
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:17 AM   #332
njsurferlarry
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I just hogged out the hole in the Vapor pick up until it fit the stud where the stock pick up went on. It works fine! I'm still tweeking the front wheel size to get the speedo accurate, but it reads the stock magnet just fine.

so you just opened up the hole on the trail tech sensor and bolted it straight to the factory mount using a bolt? gonna have to take a look at it later. i put an email out to ash at christini. because they use the voyager on the military version im sure they came across the same issue and hopefully they have a bracket that requires less mods. still waiting for him to reply.
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Old 04-25-2013, 03:28 PM   #333
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so you just opened up the hole on the trail tech sensor and bolted it straight to the factory mount using a bolt?
Yes, well a nut, as the stock pick up on mine is mounted to a stud on the fork leg. 2 minutes with a tapered reamer and it was on there.
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:16 AM   #334
njsurferlarry
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Yes, well a nut, as the stock pick up on mine is mounted to a stud on the fork leg. 2 minutes with a tapered reamer and it was on there.
Got the speed sensor hooked up. I happen to have one of those cheapo napa battery cable repair kits that had a nice very slim head on the bolt. Just reamed it out a bit and nut and bolt it on. Worked out well. Thanks. Didnt see how accurate the speedo was yet. I measure the tire at 2193 mm. Hooefully i could get out where there is mile markers today and set it without getting killed by traffic. Where do you have your wheel speed setting out?
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:03 PM   #335
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Anyone Having issues with their gas cap? Its like the bong on the tank expanded. Weird
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:53 PM   #336
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I had my wheel size set at 2167, but it was reading low, so I just reset it to 2100. I'm still running the stock dual sport tires.

Not sure what you mean with the gas cap? Are you talking about the gasket inside? Mine seems fine, maybe you ran some funny gas? I switched the breather hose to a shorty with a 1 way valve from Cycle Gear.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:35 PM   #337
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So mxbundy was nice enough to send me a CRF450X seat kit for the Christini! The Seat Concepts seat kit is a very nice piece. It contains the new seat foam, the cover in your choice of coverings, and very good instructions. I those plain black vinyl, but you can also get Carbon look and gripper., see their website. There is also a link to a video on installing the seat kit, I actually found two on YouTube, one on a KLR and one on a KTM. These really helped too.

Here is a shot of the stock seat on the bike. I needed to pull the cover of anyway because one of the seat brackets was starting to come loose. When I removed the cover, I found out why. Even though the seat base was molded with little spot face type flat areas for using backing plate washers behind the pop rivets used to attach the brackets, they didn't use any?! The rivets, not surprisingly, started to pull through the plastic seat base.



Below you can see the seat base in the center, the stock foam above, and the Seat Concepts Comfort foam for a CRF450X below. You can also see the Christini seat is virtually identical to the CRF450X seat base. I also re-attached the brackets using new rivits and backing plates, which should hold much better. The Christini did not use any adhesive to hold the stock foam to the base, as most bikes do and SC recommends.



Besides the spray adhesive to attach the foam to the base, you'll need a small screw driver to pry off the staples holding the stock cover on. You'll also need a stapler, probably a pnuematic, as SC uses, or an electric like I used to attach the cover. I am not sure if a manual stapler would be strong enough to get the staples fully in? Anyway, it is a pretty simple process and you should finish very quickly.

I did find the "Comfort" seat to be a little wide in the center for me, so I trimmed it just a little, creating what I would call a Sport/Comfort seat. The Comfort being their wider version, while the Sport is only slightly wider than stock. And here is the finished product installed, which I am very happy with. The foam and the padded seat cover seem much more comfortable, but I'll have to verufy that in the future. Thanks to Seat Concepts for a great product!

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Old 04-29-2013, 10:22 AM   #338
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i went to the cyclegear near me and they didnt have any gas caps. but its like the threads got larger on the tank. couldnt even start the cap. i used a file and a thread chaser to clean up and fix the threads so they fit fine. went hard riding yesterday seems fine now. no leaks. and the speed setting at 2100? i hope i have time to play with that this week. did a ton of really tight singles this week. with the bark busters on those handle bars will make your hand scream in pain. and the bike does runs a little hot. engine temp got up to about 265. and the clutch started to drag alot. after it cools down the clutch is back to normal. at first i thought the cable stretched. and impossible to find neutral when hot. im hoping with the carb replacement and fine tune that the motors runs a little cooler and that trans also. any ideas? maybe a heavier oil? running bel ray 85w trans oil. it made running the super tight trails a real pain.
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:58 PM   #339
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No, I didn't get the gas cap at Cycle Gear, only the vent hose with the litttle valve on it.

I haven't checked the speedo accuracy with 2100 yet, so not sure?

Not sure what kind of bark busters your using, but the only time I've screamed in pain is without them when my hand got mashed by a tree!?!

265 is pretty hot, I haven't been anywherer near that. I also use only Mobil 1 15/50 full synthetic after the first couple changes with dino oil. That is both the tranny and motor too. You might try some Water Wetter type of coolant additive, which helps transfer heat to the coolant?
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:41 PM   #340
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Originally Posted by njsurferlarry View Post
and the bike does runs a little hot. engine temp got up to about 265. and the clutch started to drag alot. after it cools down the clutch is back to normal. at first i thought the cable stretched. and impossible to find neutral when hot. im hoping with the carb replacement and fine tune that the motors runs a little cooler and that trans also. any ideas? maybe a heavier oil? running bel ray 85w trans oil. it made running the super tight trails a real pain.
1st, heavier oil doesn't mean it cools better or performs better. Get that idea outta your head before something expensive happens. Heavy fluids in the wrong application can cause decreased flow, excess pressure and more heat.

2nd, clutch, make sure you have about 1/16 min to 1/8 max inch of play at the clutch lever. Any less than 1/16", the clutch will experience inertial drag as the fluid heats up and steadily get worse the longer you ride it. I've been using Honda's red bottle (HP Trans) for years on the 450X with excellent results even in the desert in the summer. Can't go wrong with the fluid the bike was designed for. Also, put the full quart in the tranny!!! Not the .75 quart. Even Honda, in 2006, ammended via service bulletin to add the full quart. This had to do with cogs not getting the splash they needed. No more toasted cog sets.

3rd, 265 degrees is asking for a seizure. At 11:1 instead of Honda's 12:1 compression ratio, it should be easier to run cooler. Check your jetting. Too lean and your head temp causes excess heat and detonation. Also check the radiator. Is there anything in the overflow tank? If not, top up. Make sure the system is burped. Air in the cooling system causes excess pressure spikes in the system and more heat. Coolant cools, not air. A touch of water wetter helps too. When I received mine, the cooling system was bone dry despite the delivery checklist saying otherwise. Luckily I had Engine Ice on the shelf but I also like to use Redline coolant. These 2 help. Set your Vapor to warn you at 205 since operating temp is 190. Set the shut down red light to go off at no more than 240. When all else fails....ride faster. You need airflow across the rads. The stock airflow guards do well at directing air. Some, actually most, aftermaket billet radiator guards and braces block some airflow.
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:32 AM   #341
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the coolant system is all engine ice now. changed that over when i put the vapor on. and it only got that hot in the super tight stuff. where going faster is impossible. going thru trees that have barely 2 feet of space. and i really didnt mean a heavier oil 85x bel ray isnt all that heavy at all. more like a better oil to dissapate heat. most of my riding in the pines are in the super tight stuff. lots of low speed technical crap. on the wider trails wher 3rd and 4th gear is used the temp hangs between 170 to 200. the clutch adjustment are spot on. only when i get into the tight stuff the temp climbs. and the clutch starts to drag and i get way to much play in the clutch. once out of those sections everything goes back to normal. and no loss of coolant at all. i just got the fcr carb yesterday. gonna put it on and dial it in and see how it does. im sure it would help alot not running that lean like the stocker carb. and i have to cut off at least an inch off the handlebars. they are way to wide for where i go. and get some anti vibe stuff and different grips.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:00 AM   #342
X1Glider
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and i have to cut off at least an inch off the handlebars. they are way to wide for where i go. and get some anti vibe stuff and different grips.
I don't know how you can afford to cut off an inch. I had the most difficult time finding room for everything that clamps onto the bars. With the 1 1/8", the way it tapers, there's not much room on the 7/8" portion. I couldn't even put the kill switch on the bars. It's clamped to the right side upper front drive spindle just inside the headlight mount.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:26 AM   #343
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i didnt say it was going to be easy. that taper is a pain in the ass. like when i put the bark busters on it. i bought a brand new set of msr guards. the mounting clamps from msr just would not work without major mods. i had a set of cycra mounts from a bike i parted out and with no mods fits perfect. im going to fabricate a few brackets at work for everything on the bars. get rid of the turn singal switch and and stuff like that. i dont ride on the streets with the christini. just a test drives around the neighborhood. since its just strictly going to be used in the woods i could trim some of the fat. its a work in progress. i just wish i had more time during the week to do all of it instead of all saturday work and just a sunday ride. hopefully when i happy with the setup i would post some picks of a perfectly setup christini to my liking soon. i use my klr 250 and 650 for dual sporting.
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:18 PM   #344
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I have the Cycra CRMs on mine. They fit on fine. But I had to move the clutch and brake perches inward a bit in order for the lever tips to clear the insides of the guards. My biggest hassle was fitting the AWD lever because I have a fan switch as well. I had to cut the flange of the grip so the lever would rotate. I just wasn't clear on where the damn thing should go.

I'd be interested in seeing what others have done. I could use some clean up on all the cables and wires behind the headlight. There's just too much excess back there. It's messy, IMO.
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:48 PM   #345
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Surfer, why did you buy a dual sport if you're not going to ride on the street?! The dirt only version is much cheaper or you could have got the one with a pipe and FCR carb for the same price? Have you got a pipe for it yet? I think the stock pipe with the cat adds to the heat problem.

X1G, why would excess clutch lever play cause heat, because of incomplete release? I do agree with running more lube in the tranny! I run a little more in the motor too, about .8L.

I ride very tight trails, often with trees closer together than the width of my bars, but I would much rather bang them off trees than give up leverage. Especially on the Christini when the front end starts working, that thing gets hard to steer! I will post a pic of my bars, as they are very full! I got rid of the kill switch when I put the CRF throttle on, and just use the key.
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