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10-24-2011, 04:18 PM
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#1 |
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Retired Navy
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Colonial Beach VA
Oddometer: 3,520
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KLR 685 Kit Suggestions
I'm looking into upgrading to a Schnitz 685 upgrade to my 09 KLR in the spring. Figure the best course of action will be the full monty and get the cam/valve work done at the same time...
For those of you who have done the upgrade, are there any suggestions of things I should ensure I do or ensure I don't do? Thanks |
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10-24-2011, 05:13 PM
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#2 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Anchorage (Spenard)
Oddometer: 2,875
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Use a stock Kawasaki base gasket- the aftermarket ones leak.
Go over to .net and research the 688cc from WymanWinn. He's right up there with EagleMike in the >KnowsHisShit category, and he now installs 688s exclusively. I say that having a 685 with a small base-gasket leak!
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We had part of a Slinky. But I straightened it. |
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10-24-2011, 05:18 PM
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#3 | |
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Retired Navy
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Colonial Beach VA
Oddometer: 3,520
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Quote:
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10-24-2011, 05:22 PM
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#4 |
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beat up ex flat tracker
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
Oddometer: 6,766
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Hasnt been any piston breakage on any of the 685 kits?
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2003 DR 650.(1976 Montesa 250 Enduro-nice!) - - 1990 MASI TEAM-3V.- 1976 Motobecane, Super-Mirage.- Kona, HumuHumuNukuNukuApua'a. Single Speed ThRaShEr BiKe. 1968 360 Greeves challenger MXer. 1999 Triumph Trophy 1200. 2011 KTM530 EXC. 2012 KONA Hei Hei Deluxe (ongoing bike issues) -2009 KTM 200XC-W. |
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10-24-2011, 05:37 PM
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#5 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Garden city, Michigan
Oddometer: 2,047
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Quote:
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2008 KLR 705 2001 GAS GAS 321 |
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10-24-2011, 05:44 PM
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#6 |
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Semi-reformed Tsotsi
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Texas
Oddometer: 780
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23k miles on the 685 kit - and it gets better every ride! No traceable oil usage. Head work- no reliability reports that I am aware of - bang for the extra buck? It will still be a KLR when you are finished. I set my 08's valves at 2k - now at 35+K they are still good! Did my own port cleaning up.
I installed the aftermarket Cometic gaskets - not even a trace of a leak. Wyman is not your only option - Schnitz has an alternate shop listed too. Cary's directions are easy to follow for a competant machine shop. I have heard of a piston/barrel failure on a unit from Wyman. |
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10-24-2011, 06:28 PM
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#7 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2006
Oddometer: 2,759
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I've done it all.....I'm sad to say.....lol
Do the 685, stageII headwork, larger valves, klx needle, and airbox mods, drill your slider, either open the stock can or buy a quietish can, install a BigGun header or Power bomb header or if you can find a good condition 08 or newer header almost as good. Now as for cams...I have cams and unless you rev above 4500 up to close to redline often....I wouldn't buy them. BUT.....if you do get up above the 4500-6500 mark, man do they work well! I have now bought my first aftermarket can after many years of saying do the low buck mod my way is better speach and it is unless you need more flow to make what you have work better. My next step and it's sitting here infront of me as I plink away isa FCR pumper carb 39mm.
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10-24-2011, 06:37 PM
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#8 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Garden city, Michigan
Oddometer: 2,047
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Quote:
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2008 KLR 705 2001 GAS GAS 321 |
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10-24-2011, 06:42 PM
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#9 |
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Retired Navy
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Colonial Beach VA
Oddometer: 3,520
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Willys...What kind of gas mileage does your current set up get you?
( I consistently get around 50 mpg) I've done the slider and the KLX needle...removed the baffle...minor mods to the air box... It's an early 09 but has never been an oil burner until then last 1,500 miles..(it's coming up an 48,000) Figure if I'm going to tear it apart I might as well upgrade I do ride above 4500 rpm a good bit but not usually much more the 5500, so not sure if your suggesting the cam for that or not.. I use it for everything from a daily commuter to camping trips in the national forests...the 685 upgrade is all part of next year's Continental Divide ride ![]() Thanks everyone for you input...much appreciated |
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10-24-2011, 06:45 PM
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#10 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Out Riding
Oddometer: 640
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I have had a 685 and Stage II ported head for about 15K miles on my 2004. I really like how the bike performs except that it actually burns more oil than my stock top end did. Started burning oil at about 10k miles on the 685 and is slowly getting worse as the mileage goes up.
Everyone says that the 685 is the cure all for oil consumption. That said mine isn't the only oil burning 685 around. It was put together and broken in following Cary's instructions to the letter.
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Goldwing, Super Tenere, WR250R, ST1300, KLR, GS1000s, H2 750 |
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10-24-2011, 06:52 PM
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#11 | |
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Retired Navy
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Colonial Beach VA
Oddometer: 3,520
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Quote:
Shhhhhh, if the wife hears it doesn't fix all the KLR's problems I'll have to keep it stock ![]() seriously though, thanks for the information |
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10-24-2011, 07:18 PM
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#12 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
Oddometer: 4,425
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What Suby said.... stick with the Kawi base gasket. You can do a bit of head clean up without spending a bunch& it helps. If you have bucks, ya send in the head, I think there good gains to be had there.
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10-24-2011, 07:26 PM
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#13 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2006
Oddometer: 2,759
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As for the cams....I usually ride around the 4000-5000prm range so I don't get the best bang out of the cams. Now as for mileage...the cams did the worst damage, I dropped 30 kms per tank as soon as I installed them. Now for day to day riding 30 kms per tank isn't an issue but when touring to far out locations gas is at the forfront. I used to get 365-380kms per tank before reserve and that is fully loaded with camping gear and pulling a single wheeled trailer. That is also touring across Canada and up to Inuvik. The drop in gas mileage won't bother you much when riding in town, the fun factor will overwhelm that for sure. The added grunt and torque from both the 685 and stage II headwork is great. I run a 16/42 gear ratio and I bet I still have one of the quickest KLRs in Canada for sure.
If you do do the 685 and stage II work, you will be pleased for sure. As for a 685 burning oil...I've never seen one or heard of one arond here or on .net either. You will get issues if the boring of the jug isn't done slowly though. It needs to be bored slowly. The best place to look for engine work is a shop that does Hardley work as they need the same machine speeds. The process of the installation is really simple if done correctly. Some can do it quick, some do it slow and meticulously, I prefer the latter. Better to take your time and not have any problems or come backs IMHO. Many have base gaskets seeping, this is due to people touching the gasket similar to touching a haligen bulb, if anything touches the surface of the base gasket I found it will seep. I also needs a specific sealant added too, to ensure it doesn't seep. Mine seeped because I touched it. I now wear latex gloves when handling that gasket and sealant. and so far none have seeped. There are many many mods to do to the KLR to get more from it, many are small things that don't do much on their own but when you add them up, you notice a difference. It's always a thrill to get to that next level.....it's part and parcel of owning a toy IMHO. Hope this helps....
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10-24-2011, 07:27 PM
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#14 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2006
Oddometer: 2,759
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As for the gains, the 685 gives you a good bump, then you do the stage II head work and it gives you the same bump again....all the other mods are very small hits but when added to the entire build they too add up to give even more.
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10-24-2011, 08:20 PM
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#15 |
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Just Lucky I Guess
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Icebox of the Nation
Oddometer: 39
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I didn't get much performance gain out of the 685 kit (2008), but the bike pulls smoother through a broader rpm range. Watch the cam cap bolts. A couple of mine were stretched from the factory, so I replaced them all. Oh, i had the upgrade cylinder installed, rather than bore the old one. I thought some of the oil burning was related to the original cylinder specs.
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