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Old 11-01-2011, 10:45 AM   #16
anonny
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Beautiful Revelstoke BC
Oddometer: 5,358
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyc14 View Post
I don't have a big oven,

What do you use?

Where did you get your PC gun and supplies?
I use a normal house hold oven that you can usually pick up free at metal recyclers, convection ovens work best.

The gun I am offering to lend you is an Eastwood gun, real simple point and shoot, I bought the Elite Kit so I would have everything I would need.

http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-elit...-coat-kit.html

365 Powder (in Toronto) is who I use for most of my powder and supplies.
http://www.powder365.com/store/
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Kawasaki H1 build thread

71- 450 Honda CL re & re

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Old 11-01-2011, 02:39 PM   #17
acap650
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Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 523
A7

+1 for a cool bike - it was my second motorcycle - bought as a leftover in 1969 the year the Mach3 came out. Couldn't afford the Mach3 and glad for it. The Avenger was plenty fast and far more user friendly.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:19 PM   #18
Paul Mihalka
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Joined: May 2007
Location: Maryland
Oddometer: 877
I had one of those! For a few years British bikes, then 2 years without a bike (grrrrr) then start with Japanese. Honda 250 Dream, Honda 305 Superhawk, Bridgestone GTR 350. I loved the Bridgestone, but when I found out that they stop making bikes, I sold it and got the Kawa A7. Good bike but the GTR fitted me better. After that Honda CB750, after that all BMW.
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:55 PM   #19
johnnyc14 OP
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Location: St. Albert, Alberta
Oddometer: 205
I got some NOS Kawasaki brake shoes, new shocks, new wheel bearings and seals along with new Avon Road Rider tyres. I got the fenders polished up, they are stainless steel and in amazing shape with absolutely no rust. I had to massage a few dents out of them but they turned out OK. So I've now got the front end, wheels and fenders back on.























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1971 Honda CL450
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ight=johnnyc14
1972 Kawasaki F9 Bighorn
1973 Kawasaki H1D Mach III
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634816
1974 Yamaha DT250
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=dt250
2003 Suzuki DRZ400S
2008 Kawasaki ZG1400

johnnyc14 screwed with this post 11-02-2011 at 06:43 AM
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:16 AM   #20
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Location: St. Albert, Alberta
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Did some work on the engine. When I took it apart I found that both the drive and driven gears for first were kind of trashed. Engagement dogs and slots are rounded off,





I took the engine apart on 1 of my A1 parts bikes and found that the 1st gear parts are in much better shape so I used them instead of the originals. It's hard to see in the pics but they are much better.



I installed the trans in the cases with the counter shaft sprocket and clutch hub on and the nuts tight to simulate a fully assembled trans. Just like my H1 I found about .040" end play in both shafts. I used a couple of the shims from the A1 trans to bring the end play down to .010". I had to remove .010" from the .040" shims that are used by the factory.




It should shift great now.
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John


1971 Honda CL450
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ight=johnnyc14
1972 Kawasaki F9 Bighorn
1973 Kawasaki H1D Mach III
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634816
1974 Yamaha DT250
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=dt250
2003 Suzuki DRZ400S
2008 Kawasaki ZG1400
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:41 AM   #21
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Location: St. Albert, Alberta
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I got the bottom end of the engine re-assembled and installed back into the frame. There is a lot more to this engine than other 2-stroke twins I've had.











__________________
John


1971 Honda CL450
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ight=johnnyc14
1972 Kawasaki F9 Bighorn
1973 Kawasaki H1D Mach III
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634816
1974 Yamaha DT250
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=dt250
2003 Suzuki DRZ400S
2008 Kawasaki ZG1400
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Old 11-08-2011, 08:54 AM   #22
Sniper X
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Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level
Oddometer: 33,283
This is a great build thread. The thing is going to look new. Good job!
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:17 PM   #23
johnnyc14 OP
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Location: St. Albert, Alberta
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Thanks Sniper X. More progress today. I learned that one of the differences between the 250 A1 engine and the 350 A7 engine is there is an extra set of oil passages drilled into the 350 case that feed the outer main and rod bearings. These passages are fed from the main oil injection fittings on the rotary valve covers and there is a special bolt in one position on the cover that has an oil bypass groove machined into it. My engine was missing these bolts and there were just ordinary screws in place of them. There must have been enough oil getting past the threads to keep the bearings happy because they were in good shape. I found some of the special bolts on ebay and they finally arrived yesterday. This is the bolt.





It goes in the top hole on the rotary valve cover.



After I got that straightened out I got the top end of the engine assembled with new rings, wrist pins and bearings.







New points and condensor and I also replaced the wires from the conensor to the points as they were in rough shape.



It's coming together.

__________________
John


1971 Honda CL450
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ight=johnnyc14
1972 Kawasaki F9 Bighorn
1973 Kawasaki H1D Mach III
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634816
1974 Yamaha DT250
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=dt250
2003 Suzuki DRZ400S
2008 Kawasaki ZG1400
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:49 AM   #24
twoskies
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Joined: Nov 2011
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kawasaki a7

really nice build, i just bought a 71 kaw a7, real rough shape, mostly complete but rough, motor locked up, i was thinking of selling it the way it is but after seeing your post i think ill fix it, thanks for the information and ill keep track of your build
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:04 PM   #25
McJamie
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Location: Courtice, Ontario, Canada
Oddometer: 1,282
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyc14 View Post
Thanks Sniper X. More progress today. I learned that one of the differences between the 250 A1 engine and the 350 A7 engine is there is an extra set of oil passages drilled into the 350 case that feed the outer main and rod bearings. These passages are fed from the main oil injection fittings on the rotary valve covers and there is a special bolt in one position on the cover that has an oil bypass groove machined into it. My engine was missing these bolts and there were just ordinary screws in place of them. There must have been enough oil getting past the threads to keep the bearings happy because they were in good shape. I found some of the special bolts on ebay and they finally arrived yesterday. This is the bolt.





It goes in the top hole on the rotary valve cover.



After I got that straightened out I got the top end of the engine assembled with new rings, wrist pins and bearings.







New points and condensor and I also replaced the wires from the conensor to the points as they were in rough shape.



It's coming together.

I thought all the A7's were electronic ignitions. Clearly I was wrong.
I am hoping to have mine finished soon as well. It's good to see there are still a few of them out there being brought back to life. It probably wont be as clean of a job as what you are doing, but my plan has been to do everything myself. With the exception of having the cylinders bored ( by my friend, the late Steve Crover ), I have managed to do that. I'll post some pictures soon.
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Old 12-01-2011, 07:08 PM   #26
johnnyc14 OP
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: St. Albert, Alberta
Oddometer: 205
McJamie, I think all the 67 and maybe 68 A7's were point ignition. I saw some of your post over on the A series forum but there's not too much activity over there. I have 2 A1 parts bikes so f you need any parts let me know and maye I'll have a spare.
I got some more work done. I took the ignition switch apart and cleaned it and replaced the hardened and cracked wire covering with heat shrink. This switch has 2 extra wires that are not shown in the schematic, a green and a yellow. I spent some time figuring out what they are for. One phase of the generator is connected to the green and it goes to the ignition switch where it is connected to the yellow only when the switch is in the "lights on" position. The yellow then comes back to the rectifier. I am installing a custom built regulator/rectifier from Oregon Motorcycle Products so I'm going to bypass that part of the switch. The modern regulator will have no problem dealing with full generator output even with the lights off.

You can see in the schematics below that the green and yellow wires are shown at the ignition switch on the models with CDI but are shown not connected to anything, they are not shown at all on the points ignition model.






I got the carbs cleaned and rebuilt. I bought some Keyster carb kits and of course almost every part in them is wrong as usual. The only parts I used were the needle/seat assemblies. Good thng they were cheap.







I had a clutch cable left over from my Honda CL450 build and I found that it is a perfect fit on the A7 and is a much better quality cable than the original!! Cool.


Well that's enough for tonight, I'll post some pics of the regulator/rectifier install later.
__________________
John


1971 Honda CL450
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ight=johnnyc14
1972 Kawasaki F9 Bighorn
1973 Kawasaki H1D Mach III
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634816
1974 Yamaha DT250
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=dt250
2003 Suzuki DRZ400S
2008 Kawasaki ZG1400

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Old 12-01-2011, 09:33 PM   #27
McJamie
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Location: Courtice, Ontario, Canada
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I'm in the process of redoing ALL of the wiring. When I first got the bike, I cobbled it together enough that I thought it was usable. I decided I can do a little better then that. I've got all winter now ( snow & freezing rain yesterday, been riding up until then). I'm going to switch the garage to "Winter Mode"( new bike at the back, old bike that needs work at the front), on the weekend. So hopefully I can make some real progress soon.
I actually have a pretty large stockpile of spares myself. I lucked out at the Paris vintage meet a few years back. A guy had a van load of parts he didn't want to take home, including a complete SS exhaust system. That alone was worth his asking price.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:12 PM   #28
johnnyc14 OP
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: St. Albert, Alberta
Oddometer: 205
That's great, one thing I haven't figured out yet is what I'm going to do for an exhaust system. All the exhaust on the 3 bike I've got is in bad shape.
__________________
John


1971 Honda CL450
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ight=johnnyc14
1972 Kawasaki F9 Bighorn
1973 Kawasaki H1D Mach III
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634816
1974 Yamaha DT250
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=dt250
2003 Suzuki DRZ400S
2008 Kawasaki ZG1400

johnnyc14 screwed with this post 12-02-2011 at 02:43 PM
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:29 PM   #29
Sniper X
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level
Oddometer: 33,283
http://highwaymanpipes.com/?p=20
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:04 PM   #30
johnnyc14 OP
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: St. Albert, Alberta
Oddometer: 205
Thanks Sniper X, I've tried to email him a couple of times but he does not reply. I have a pattern for copies of A7 chambers originally built by J&R. I have a friend who works at a metal fab shop and I am going to ask him to make the chamber cones and I'll weld them up. They are pretty simple as there are no bends, you use the original head lead pipes.

When I was checking the electrical stuff I found that the rectifier has 2 open diodes. I used an Oregon Motorcycle Products rectifier on my Honda CL450 so I contacted Tony at OMP and sent him a schematd of the A7. He made some small mods to one of his existing rectifier/regulator combos and sent it out to me. Here's the old parts and what I replaced them with.





I used a common ground point for everything.



I made up a simple bracket for the unit and installed it in the same location as the stock parts. It looks a lot neater and i know the charging system will work perfectly. Tony make good parts!!





I made up new battery cables and used a modern automotive mini fuse instead of the old glass tube style, an added benifit is that the fuse holder is sealed.



I used an old inner tube to make up a new mat for the battery and installed 2 side cushions for the battery. The cushions are H1 parts and I just had to drill a couple of holes to install them. I had to make a new battery door/bracket out of a piese of aluminum I had laying around.















The lights all work and I've spark from both coils !!! Cool.
__________________
John


1971 Honda CL450
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ight=johnnyc14
1972 Kawasaki F9 Bighorn
1973 Kawasaki H1D Mach III
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634816
1974 Yamaha DT250
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=dt250
2003 Suzuki DRZ400S
2008 Kawasaki ZG1400
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