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Old 04-25-2010, 08:51 AM   #1
scrminbanshee OP
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: puyallup wa
Oddometer: 806
Xl600 Wiring Woes

So i finally got my bike put back together and got everything set or so i thought. when i went to start it up the headlight had no power, all the other lights/horn worked. i kicked it and kicked it and nothing the headlight should have been lighting up some but it wouldn't, so i figuered there must be a problem with headlight/sparkplug.

So i took the gas tank off pulled the plug and the headlight. the headlight i found out was just loose but on the otherhand i cant for the life of me figuer out how come the plug has none.

There is only one wire comeing off my stator with power it is a white/yellow strip one. it has power and since the headlight now has power on both high and low then am i to assume that it is all ok with that whit/yellow one. going in to the othe direction? Which wires coming off the stator should have power? There is power going into the ac regulator (i think thats what its called).

None of the plugs going into my cdi unit have any power, the coil, has no power, and the pulse generator has no power( when i say no power what i am referring to is that with my test light hooked up and me kicking it over no light the test light does work good though). which ones should have power? the kill switch has no power, which one coming off of this should have power? there is a black /i think white strip coming off that goes straight to meet up with the ignetion switch is it the one that is supposed to have power?

A little about the bike. I have been bringing it back to its former life for about the last year. It has been taken all the way down to the frame and been rebuilt. I didn't however put a new stator in. I am going to soon as I get some extra dough for it. The bike when i first got it would kick right to life with 1-3 kicks. So everything was working fine. except for that huige hole in the head causeing the oil leak. haha

AS IT STANDS NOW




What it is supposed to look like.


Thanks and i really need some help with this one.
Sb
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Old 04-25-2010, 02:29 PM   #2
jgrady1982
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Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Oddometer: 775
Hey man I had the same thing happen...kind of. I went to start my bike one day and it fired right up...but with no headlight. It ended up being the switch, I had to order a new OEM one from Honda.

Here is what I would do if I was you. IIRC you are going on a round-the-USA ride, so the FIRST thing I would do is go buy a RickyStator stator. Everybody here will tell you that these stators are the best, and the XL6 is notorious for having a bad stator. This should solve your problem. Does your tail-light turn on when you turn on the key? If no, perhaps you may need a new battery. I am suggesting this because when I was going through my bike when the light would not work I made sure that I had a charged battery because a dead one will mess up your resistance readings...I think

Overall, go buy a new stator, see if that makes the bike work. If not get a new headlight switch, then wrap your harness in wiring tape!!!

PS your bike looks awesome! Great job on the rebuild.

One more thing...did your bike used to run before you put in my ignition tumbler??? If yes, my tumbler may be bad and I may owe somebody a refund

Is there any spark when you hold the plug to the head while you kick the bike over? I can't tell you how many times I had the headlight off my bike trying to figure out why it would not start of the headlight would not turn on...ahh memories

Good luck, if you need any help just call or PM me.
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Old 04-25-2010, 02:50 PM   #3
scrminbanshee OP
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I will be ordering a new stator. i already have a new gasket for that side. how do you tell if your old one is bad anyways? and just so that im clear, it wont have any spark without the headlight? i do have that working now although i havnt tried the plug with it working. the taillight turn signals and the brake lights all work just as they are supposed to i just cant for the life of me get any spark or any power to or from the cdi/coil/kill switch so idont know. how can i diagnose the tumbler? i am at the mercy of adv for some help.


thanks for the help
sb
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:04 PM   #4
scrminbanshee OP
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well i went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new stator. this is whati think happened. since it took about the last year to rebuild it that engine and get it installed i am sure that somewhere along the way i managed to pull some of those wires free from inside there. I've been wanting a ricky stator so i went ahead and pulled the trigger. wqhat do you think was this the right move?

Thanks
SB
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Old 04-25-2010, 10:16 PM   #5
Seikkailu_R
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Location: Piikkiö, Finland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrminbanshee
I will be ordering a new stator. i already have a new gasket for that side. how do you tell if your old one is bad anyways? and just so that im clear, it wont have any spark without the headlight? i do have that working now although i havnt tried the plug with it working. the taillight turn signals and the brake lights all work just as they are supposed to i just cant for the life of me get any spark or any power to or from the cdi/coil/kill switch so idont know. how can i diagnose the tumbler? i am at the mercy of adv for some help.


thanks for the help
sb
You have 3 different electrical systems on you bike.
DC system, witch seems to work ok
AC system, witch you have broblems.
AC ignition system, witch you have broblems.

Headlight and ignition are separate systems.

Do you have shop manual/electircal schematics for bike?
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Old 04-26-2010, 05:17 AM   #6
jgrady1982
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Like I said, I would not ride one of these bikes without a new stator inside. Hopefully that will solve your problem. When you go to install the new stator place a little dab of RTV on the rubber gromet where it exits the left case cover. This should keep any oil from seeping out.

Also I think on the RS stators there is an extra green wire that you have to ground to the frame somehow. I grounded mine to the left sided upper airbox bolt that holds the airbox to the frame. I sandwiched a U-clip that I soldered on the end of the wire in-between a washer and the frame at this location. It seemed to work out well.

If this does not solve your headlight woes, I would get another switch. Either from ebay or from servicehonda.com. I had to replcae my switch, it was annoying. Plus it cost like $80, here is the link http://www.servicehonda.com/already-...ur-part-number

I am sure that ebay has them cheaper, plus they are probably interchangable with XRL's so you may be able to get a newer one for cheaper than a 1986 XL6. Who knows, RS ships pretty quick, you will probably have this thing by the end of the week. So you will know shortly what you will need to do.

-Jack
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:20 AM   #7
scrminbanshee OP
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: puyallup wa
Oddometer: 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seikkailu_R
You have 3 different electrical systems on you bike.
DC system, witch seems to work ok
AC system, witch you have broblems.
AC ignition system, witch you have broblems.

Headlight and ignition are separate systems.

Do you have shop manual/electircal schematics for bike?
I do have a manual for the bike. I have been going through it and it shows that there should be 3 different wires coming off the stator with power. I only have 1 with power . So i think this is my problem. this would explain why only my headlight is working while everything else is failing. 1 sytem out of 3 is working.
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Old 04-26-2010, 07:22 AM   #8
scrminbanshee OP
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Location: puyallup wa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgrady1982
Like I said, I would not ride one of these bikes without a new stator inside. Hopefully that will solve your problem. When you go to install the new stator place a little dab of RTV on the rubber gromet where it exits the left case cover. This should keep any oil from seeping out.

Also I think on the RS stators there is an extra green wire that you have to ground to the frame somehow. I grounded mine to the left sided upper airbox bolt that holds the airbox to the frame. I sandwiched a U-clip that I soldered on the end of the wire in-between a washer and the frame at this location. It seemed to work out well.

If this does not solve your headlight woes, I would get another switch. Either from ebay or from servicehonda.com. I had to replcae my switch, it was annoying. Plus it cost like $80, here is the link http://www.servicehonda.com/already-...ur-part-number

I am sure that ebay has them cheaper, plus they are probably interchangable with XRL's so you may be able to get a newer one for cheaper than a 1986 XL6. Who knows, RS ships pretty quick, you will probably have this thing by the end of the week. So you will know shortly what you will need to do.

-Jack
Thanks for the heads up on the stator i hope to get it wensday or thursday and maybe the bike will be running by friday. but Ive been saying that for the last 2 weeks haha. My headlight does seem to work fine, at least I think after going though that system. its the other side of it that is failing.

The switch I think you are refering to is the high/low switch for the headlight. I seem to have power on both settings so wouldn't this mean that it is working fine?
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Old 04-26-2010, 08:10 AM   #9
jgrady1982
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ooooooooooooo I thought that you said that your headlight was not working.

Never mind on that then, yeah your switch is probably okay. When I replaced my stator, the bike ran but I had no headlight. I ended up tracing the issue back to the dimmer/turn signal/horn switch. Bummer for me, good for you that it is still working.

Yeah get the stator, and hopefully the bike starts. I would consider getting a new CDI, coil, and pulse generator however...when the funds are available of course.

I know that there has been an OEM NOS CDI on ebay for a while, and RS sells coils, last I saw, and I still think that you can get a pulse generator for your bike from Honda. Maybe what you could do is get all three either used or new and then make sure that you have them in your tool-roll or somewhere on your bike when you are riding it around the USA. That might not be a bad idea.
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Old 04-26-2010, 10:03 AM   #10
scrminbanshee OP
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Location: puyallup wa
Oddometer: 806
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgrady1982
ooooooooooooo I thought that you said that your headlight was not working.

Never mind on that then, yeah your switch is probably okay. When I replaced my stator, the bike ran but I had no headlight. I ended up tracing the issue back to the dimmer/turn signal/horn switch. Bummer for me, good for you that it is still working.

Yeah get the stator, and hopefully the bike starts. I would consider getting a new CDI, coil, and pulse generator however...when the funds are available of course.

I know that there has been an OEM NOS CDI on ebay for a while, and RS sells coils, last I saw, and I still think that you can get a pulse generator for your bike from Honda. Maybe what you could do is get all three either used or new and then make sure that you have them in your tool-roll or somewhere on your bike when you are riding it around the USA. That might not be a bad idea.
I agree I did pick up a new regulator. I wanted the coil but it just isnt in the cards right now. it sucks being poor but oh well. I am going to get all and just wait for mine to crap out. and then i will be ready to replace them.
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Old 07-13-2014, 12:33 AM   #11
joeskiguy
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xl600 no head light, dimming gauge panel when revved

I have recently rebuilt my 1984 xl600. New 101mm piston and bore, replaced head due to valve seat coming loose during inspection and spark plug hole cracked through to bad valve seat pocket. When I tried to start after final assembly I got nothing. Spark: yes; Fuel: yes. I had read about the stators being a common issue and possible weak spark. I checked resistance according to what I thought it said to in manual and it didn't match. After installing new stator and the bike still not firing I performed ohm check of new Ricky Stator as well as old stator. Both check ok and I realized that I must have been measuring wrong leads on the old stator. When I was installing the pulse generator gear I did not have the aligning marks on the spline and assumed the paint dabs were from PO to mark the timing points. This turned out to be the problem. I removed pulse generator side cover and aligned pulse generator gear to trigger sensor at the firing timing mark located inside opposite side cover. After getting everything back together after correcting timing issue the bike started on second kick. Seems to run really well, better than I remember prior to rebuild, but I now have a new problem.

After installing the new Ricky Stator on my 1984 xl600. I have power to the headlight plug, both high and low beam ports, but the light does not come on. Of course I concluded it was the bulb, but I had bought a new bulb and it still didn't work. I checked old bulb by directly connecting it to a battery, (not the one on the bike because it is dead, but I did touch it to the on bike battery while the bike was running) and it lit up. I believe that the head and tail lights run off the d/c - batttery charging leg of the stator so that they will remain operable when the bike is not running, safety to allow head lights and brake lights to remain operable if motor stops running. I believe the voltage I am reading at headlight plug is a/c as the meter does not read anything when switched to d/c mode. Could this be due to a bad rectifier/regulator? a/c regulator?

Is there a way to tell a d/c light from an a/c light? I am starting to think the PO might have rigged the headlight and led tail light to run off the d/c leg. I have removed some wiring that I thought was grounding wires and reworked some of the connector plugs to try and make it more stable and durable. I used the wiring diagrams in the manual to guide me, as well as before teardown pictures.

What I am finding most confusing is that there is power to both the headlight and tail light leads, right up to the plugs for bulbs. The bulbs on both the head and led tail lights work when tested on an outside battery or when tested on the d/c - charging leg of my bike while running, but when put together the lights are not lighting. Is it possible that the PO had tied the headlight and led tail light into the incorrect circuit? Am I correct in understanding that the head and tail light should be running of the a/c current and it is possible that the headlight and led tail light I am using are meant to have d/c current?


Can anyone explain the function of the rectifier/regulator vs the a/c regulator?
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