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Old 04-14-2014, 03:37 PM   #1
Stirletz OP
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Question Sump Plug casing Destroyed. KLR 650

I recently bought a KLR 650 2005 model. I was changing the oil for the first time(for me) and this happened.

I broke it when after changing oil I tried to torque it back to spec. Sump plug casing broke & chipped & cracked (i know..). I now know that I should have used a metal crash gasket... I only wish the Clymer manual had a mention ( i was using it as my directions) of this & the PO used one.

I am considering welding the damage by going to a TIG welder, here in Brooklyn. I have bought a replacement for the OEM plug - an aluminum magnetic plug - that i intend to tap for a smaller piggy back - Allen bolt. I plan to subsequently use the Allen bolt to drain the oil when I change ever after.

To get the crack/ chip and the plug welded I would need to uninstall the engine, to get the welder to do his job safely and comfortably. I am pretty green at this but I have the Clymer manual, a bit of time and some determination.

Any input, advice, and disagreeing opinions would be greatly appreciated.

attached is one of the pictures of the disaster
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:38 PM   #2
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another pic
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:39 PM   #3
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another one for better view
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:40 PM   #4
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and another...
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:41 PM   #5
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and finally the chipped piece
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:29 PM   #6
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That's no surface repair. Between the broken case and the stripped threads. I am expecting a lot more disassembly to get it to the point a welder can actually do something about. After that there will be some machine work to drill out the weld and tap in new threads. Not even mentioning the machined sealing surface for the plug. Pretty big repair.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:27 PM   #7
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There is a nice big flat spot to the side of the drain hole, is it possible to drill and tap over there for a new drain hole? Then plug the old hole with Quick Steel or something similar?
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:31 PM   #8
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When we run into this at the shop we have to get it down to the case half and then send it to the welder to build up the area with the chip out of it then its off to the machine shop to get the threads cut and crush washer surface re-machined. Good luck.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:31 PM   #9
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I think I'd take the motor out. Learn how to disassemble a KLR motor....while doing it. Then drill that SOB area out and have someone weld in a female threaded fitting for the new plug. Have them fix the crack while you're at it. You may be in for a shock depending upon where that crack ends....hard to see.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:41 PM   #10
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Well, you're not the first to do this. That's bad enough that you'll have to split the cases and find someone who will take the job on. The best way to repair that will probably be to machine the area out around the hole and fit a new piece, then weld it in. The other alternative would be to look for another used engine in decent shape, maybe from a wreck. The second choice is likely cheaper and quicker when you consider labor costs and machine time.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:52 PM   #11
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JB Weld

I have never had any luck, but on the other hand, I witnessed a guy fix a magna with some JB and a steal plate. I tore the fins off the bottom of a magna it drained all oil in a minute. I considered the bike trashed, gave it away, a day later the guy was driving it. JB welded the plate and it held for ever as far as I know.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:58 PM   #12
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If that crack is going to the bolt hole and a case half, it's going to be a bitch to weld that.

The engine would need to come apart to weld correctly. No way to weld that close to a Gasket and not burn it up. Plus the oil in the metal is going to be hell on porosity in the weld.

I'd try cleaning the hell out of it, roughing up the surface with a carbide burr and sealing over the whole mess with JB weld stick. Then either drill and tap that or like trailer rails said, tap next to it.

I'd agree you'll easily spend a used motor on machine work and welding time after you factor in tear down of the motor.

Personally I'd throw in a Hail Mary fix that doesn't require removing the engine and see how it holds. In the mean time I'd be putting the feelers out for a new engine. You may get lucky though.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
If that crack is going to the bolt hole and a case half, it's going to be a bitch to weld that.

The engine would need to come apart to weld correctly. No way to weld that close to a Gasket and not burn it up. Plus the oil in the metal is going to be hell on porosity in the weld.

I'd try cleaning the hell out of it, roughing up the surface with a carbide burr and sealing over the whole mess with JB weld stick. Then either drill and tap that or like trailer rails said, tap next to it.

I'd agree you'll easily spend a used motor on machine work and welding time after you factor in tear down of the motor.

Personally I'd throw in a Hail Mary fix that doesn't require removing the engine and see how it holds. In the mean time I'd be putting the feelers out for a new engine. You may get lucky though.
+1
Lay it on it's side, buy a 1/4NPT pipe plug at the hardware store, spray it with silicone (mold release). Clean the case VERY well with solvent (acetone from the hardware store is good), place the plug kinda in the hole and then lay a mondo lump of JBWeld over the whole area.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:28 PM   #14
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There is no easy answer for this one but you guys are helping put a better perspective on finding the solution. Thank you for that.

So from what I understand welding is not a good idea because it will burn out the engine gaskets. Or at least there is a strong chance this will happen. I would like to hear more on that from someone who has done thing kind of thing before maybe? Would be good.

Replacing the engine is definitely a painful option, since the current engine is in pretty amazing condition with only 16,000 miles on it for 1 2005. However it does seem this would be the less arduous, "permanent" way.

Someone also suggested (on a different forum) that I take apart the engine and simply replace the left side casing. Someone else also it as anything but simple. I remember the words "career task" being used...

Another option offered by Sailah is to do a very thorough JB weld fix involving re-tapping - didnt understand this one completely - the OEM plug for a smaller one?? - or simply tapping a brand new opening on the side.
I have seen the first one (with the piggy back plug) done here:

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=19898

However the guy had much less damage on his cracked casing then I do on mine.

Finally there is an option offered by Concours, similar to Sailah, to use an OVERSIZE plug by sealing it with Silicone(mold release) and then solidiying the entire works with JB weld. I guess then I would have to tap a new hole with this option as well.


These so far are the choices I need to think about.
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:01 PM   #15
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Well...

A) a proper repair is going to be very difficult and/or very expensive.
B) the failure of any fix might toast the motor, but probably not you.

The answer seems fairly clear. Do the best Hail Mary fix you can come up with and ride the thing. It's a KLR.

Oh, and buy a very good skid plate. Maybe even modify the skid plate to incorporate something that holds your fix in place as a backup. A small aluminium plate screwed to the skid plate with something stuck on it that pushes up against whatever plug you end up with, keeping it in place no matter what. After all, dribbling oil is bad, blowing the whole litre in a couple of seconds while screaming down the highway is very, very bad. Oh, and develop a healthy nervous twitch about looking for oil leaks.

Other than that... don't do that again.

FixerDave screwed with this post 04-14-2014 at 11:40 PM
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