ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-20-2012, 09:59 AM   #1516
redog1
KLR650-2009
 
redog1's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Magalia, CA./ Butte & Siskiyou C.
Oddometer: 1,562
I've tried several different oils...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro1970 View Post
When I used Valvoline 20w-50 in my '11 it would use/burn oil like crazy (with around 3K miles on the bike). After and oil change I could ride a hundred miles or so i'd have to add so I didn't plan on getting to far from some place I could buy oil. Pissed off I was! Switched to Rotella T and haven't had issues since. I may have to add just a little at the 1200-1500 mile mark with aggressive riding but nothing like the Valvoline. Next oil change is coming due and thinking on giving the plain jane Castrol GTX 10w-40 a try.
and have the best luck with plain ol' Castrol GTX 10w-40. Change my oil every 2500 miles and don't add any in between unless I'm riding hard, then about 1/2 qt used in 2500 miles.
__________________
No, I don't know where that road goes, let's find out!
redog1
redog1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 10:15 AM   #1517
phideaux
Beastly Adventurer
 
phideaux's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: NW Georgia
Oddometer: 3,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
Guys, knock it off.

From the rules: "12. No forum wars. If you have beefs with inmates in other forums, this isn't the place to air them out."

This is not the place for that drama, please let it go.

Thanks
CA Stu, Thumpers Mod


THANKS STU!


Fido
__________________
Iron Butt Association No. 22913

Mrs. Phideaux to her octogenarian friend when the granny wants to know if she can sit on one of my bikes:

"It's Okay, they only fall over when HE'S on them."


North GA Tag-O-Rama Map
Georgia Tag-O-Rama Map
phideaux is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 10:51 AM   #1518
Thanantos
Ride hard.
 
Thanantos's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
Oddometer: 3,387
Enough guys. This could go on forever.

The ADV mods have enough to deal with on this awesome, free (and adfree) site.

Let's not make it harder on them.
__________________
1999 DR350SE
2013 V-Strom
Thanantos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 10:58 AM   #1519
CA Stu
Thanks
 
CA Stu's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Riverside, CA
Oddometer: 45,644
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
It's the touring with heavy luggage/ass/passenger that is gonna stress these parts. Offroad riding (unless you are doing HUGE jumps and crashing ALOT) is not likely to do near the damage to your subframe or hardware as touring. If you read the manual and see the manufacturer's suggested weight limits, you'd probably agree that most touring KLR riders are on overburdened bikes.

From experience, I speak.

I'm on my 3rd subframe in 70,000 miles. Failures were not due to hardware.

Never broken an upgraded bolt and I have NOT done the drill-through mod. My bolts are from ACE.
As long as you keep the upper bolts tight you probably won't ever break them regardless.

I am willing to bet that If everyone yanked the seat off and checked them, at least a few of them could use a turn or two to crank them down.

BTW, I did the drill-through upper subframe mod (on a couple of frames now), and I don't know if it's all in my head or what, but the bike just feels more solid. I reckon it's a good upgrade.
__________________
http://youtu.be/C6cxNR9ML8k
CA Stu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 11:42 AM   #1520
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
DirtyDog's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 6,940
Quote:
Originally Posted by CA Stu View Post
As long as you keep the upper bolts tight you probably won't ever break them regardless.

I am willing to bet that If everyone yanked the seat off and checked them, at least a few of them could use a turn or two to crank them down.

BTW, I did the drill-through upper subframe mod (on a couple of frames now), and I don't know if it's all in my head or what, but the bike just feels more solid. I reckon it's a good upgrade.
Yeah, my seat is removed frequently... I guess I probably check them fairly often.

There's a joke in there about "in your head" and loose screws, but I'll resist.
__________________
Lordy with my hand upon the Bible
Swear I shot the damn devil, not a bitch
But the po-po don't give a shit
DirtyDog is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 12:55 PM   #1521
RandoCommando
Wannabe
 
RandoCommando's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Philthadelphia, Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 1,249
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aprilia View Post
My local Auto Paint supplier keeps the kit in stock but plenty offer it online. Even Amazon carries it... POR15 KIT

Why tap to larger size? I'd re-tap current threads regardless. Once done you can quickly determine their condition. In my experience the treads will be just fine.
I figured I would have to tap to a larger size because of the rust making the threads smaller.
I guess when I pull it out and look at it, I'll see if the threads need to be tapped or not.
Then I'll try re-tapping the same size.
If that doesn't work, then I can move up a size I suppose.
If I'm able to keep the same screws and threads, that's a bonus!
Thanks again Aprilia!!!
RandoCommando is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 05:50 AM   #1522
Tsotsie
Semi-reformed Tsotsi
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
Oddometer: 1,355
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
It's the touring with heavy luggage/ass/passenger that is gonna stress these parts. Offroad riding (unless you are doing HUGE jumps and crashing ALOT) is not likely to do near the damage to your subframe or hardware as touring. If you read the manual and see the manufacturer's suggested weight limits, you'd probably agree that most touring KLR riders are on overburdened bikes.

From experience, I speak.

I'm on my 3rd subframe in 70,000 miles. Failures were not due to hardware.

Never broken an upgraded bolt and I have NOT done the drill-through mod. My bolts are from ACE.
Can you give us more information on these breakages- the sub frame being that part which bolts onto and rear of the tank ? Or, pics of where the breaks occur?

I have not seen breaks on the KLR 'frame' other than those just before the top engine mount and the front down tube where it splits into two under the engine. Those two areas I can believe and are due to the frame flexing there - the cause of the instability under load and at speed. Loaded with panniers and standing still that 'mid frame' flex can be replicated. Those breaks are on heavily loaded bikes on long rides.
Tsotsie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 06:40 AM   #1523
Kawidad
Beastly Adventurer
 
Kawidad's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 4,382
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
Can you give us more information on these breakages- the sub frame being that part which bolts onto and rear of the tank ? Or, pics of where the breaks occur?

I have not seen breaks on the KLR 'frame' other than those just before the top engine mount and the front down tube where it splits into two under the engine. Those two areas I can believe and are due to the frame flexing there - the cause of the instability under load and at speed. Loaded with panniers and standing still that 'mid frame' flex can be replicated. Those breaks are on heavily loaded bikes on long rides.
The project KLR I now own did just that for the PO. I think its due to excessive loading at that specific point. There are a lot of different forces at work on the backbone of the bike at that one spot. I had a professional welder weld up the crack and then weld a plate onto the top of the frame. IMO, that's what Kawasaki should have done at the factory and would be a must do if I were planning on long trip with heavy loads.

Also, on my bike the DOO cut loose on the PO at around 12k miles. The DOO itself broke and took out parts of the counter balancer assembly and the cam chain assembly. Why it cut loose is anybody's guess since the PO was a total douche when it came to motorcycle care and maintenance.
__________________
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes? - Juvenal
(Who watches the watchers)
Kawidad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 09:30 AM   #1524
jonyfi
21st century adventurer
 
jonyfi's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Location: San Francisco california U.S.A.
Oddometer: 360
[QUOTE=Kawidad;18268078]The project KLR I now own did just that for the PO. I think its due to excessive loading at that specific point. There are a lot of different forces at work on the backbone of the bike at that one spot. I had a professional welder weld up the crack and then weld a plate onto the top of the frame. IMO, that's what Kawasaki should have done at the factory and would be a must do if I were planning on long trip with heavy loads.

Hey Kawidad, another picture request...can you post any pics on the reinforcments you had welded to the frame. I need to do a little more research on where commom failure areas are (while touring with a heavy load)...I have an friend who is a steele worker/welder and I might be up for having him do some reinforcing...
Thanks!
jonyfi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 09:54 AM   #1525
nakedwaterskier
Gnarly Adventurer
 
nakedwaterskier's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Oddometer: 263
I have an extra low mile US Marine frame. It came with the like new engine and I don't need the frame.
It is painted green. Anybody want it?

$75
nakedwaterskier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 06:15 PM   #1526
Canuman
Crusty & Unobliging
 
Canuman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: The Palace of the People, VT
Oddometer: 4,326
El Cheapo Tool Tubes

Remember these? The Tractor docs tube that used to be available at Tractor Supply for a coupla bucks? Some Jocko got hold of a case and is selling them for a twenty on line. That's nuts.

I bought three of them for under $25 shipped. I gave one to my manic mechanic for a docs holder on his hill-climbing rig.

Nice folks, very fast service and cheap tubes. Big gasket, long threads, and that stupid weep hole that you need to dab some silicone or Shoe Goo into before use.

They are found here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110833323557...8#ht_500wt_969

Looks like this:



Fits a liter fuel bottle or a tool roll. The shipping seems high, but they reduce it a lot for bulk orders. As I said, three tubes cost me under $25 USD to my door.

Trust this helps.
__________________
The Rock 2013 RR
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=915172

Dual Sport Luggage Racks for: DRZ-S, SM and E, DR 650 and KLR650: http://www.moto-racks.com
Canuman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 06:29 PM   #1527
thomas.tc.young
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 830
Does anyone know the size of the bypass hose for thermo-bob. I cut mine a little too short and need to replace. I figure I can go to napa and pick it up. I guess I need the o/d and the I/d.

Thanks
__________________
1969 CL350 permanent project
2000 Ninja 250 Freeby
the klr/versys project: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810279
thomas.tc.young is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 07:03 PM   #1528
Canuman
Crusty & Unobliging
 
Canuman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: The Palace of the People, VT
Oddometer: 4,326
Cut a snippet off and I'm sure they will match it. Nothin' beats original dimensions..
__________________
The Rock 2013 RR
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=915172

Dual Sport Luggage Racks for: DRZ-S, SM and E, DR 650 and KLR650: http://www.moto-racks.com
Canuman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 07:27 PM   #1529
thomas.tc.young
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: NYC
Oddometer: 830
It's a catch 22 I need the bike to get to the auto store. Maybe I have the scraps though...
__________________
1969 CL350 permanent project
2000 Ninja 250 Freeby
the klr/versys project: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810279
thomas.tc.young is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 07:40 PM   #1530
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
DirtyDog's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 6,940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
Can you give us more information on these breakages- the sub frame being that part which bolts onto and rear of the tank ? Or, pics of where the breaks occur?

I have not seen breaks on the KLR 'frame' other than those just before the top engine mount and the front down tube where it splits into two under the engine. Those two areas I can believe and are due to the frame flexing there - the cause of the instability under load and at speed. Loaded with panniers and standing still that 'mid frame' flex can be replicated. Those breaks are on heavily loaded bikes on long rides.
Like I vaguely implied, my 2 previous subframe failures weren't due to frame-to-subframe hardware breakage. One (the most recent) was due to a welding modification I made to the mounting points when the M6 bolts stripped out. I could have re-tapped them, but went a different direction.



But the original was an outright breakage. My tailbag came loose while riding in the desert. The bag (still partially tethered to my rack) was sucked in with the rear tire and snapped the frame.



I have also cracked the main frame on the spine right in front of the top subframe attachment area. Ran a bead over this one. Been riding on it ever since.
__________________
Lordy with my hand upon the Bible
Swear I shot the damn devil, not a bitch
But the po-po don't give a shit
DirtyDog is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:06 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014