KLR650 Only Thread......

[redog1]

Originally Posted by Nitro1970

When I used Valvoline 20w-50 in my '11 it would use/burn oil like crazy (with around 3K miles on the bike). After and oil change I could ride a hundred miles or so i'd have to add so I didn't plan on getting to far from some place I could buy oil. Pissed off I was! Switched to Rotella T and haven't had issues since. I may have to add just a little at the 1200-1500 mile mark with aggressive riding but nothing like the Valvoline. Next oil change is coming due and thinking on giving the plain jane Castrol GTX 10w-40 a try.

and have the best luck with plain ol' Castrol GTX 10w-40. Change my oil every 2500 miles and don't add any in between unless I'm riding hard, then about 1/2 qt used in 2500 miles.

[phideaux]

Originally Posted by CA Stu

Guys, knock it off.

From the rules: "12. No forum wars. If you have beefs with inmates in other forums, this isn't the place to air them out."

This is not the place for that drama, please let it go.

Thanks
CA Stu, Thumpers Mod

THANKS STU!


Fido

[Thanantos]

Enough guys. This could go on forever.

The ADV mods have enough to deal with on this awesome, free (and adfree) site.

Let's not make it harder on them.

[CA Stu]

Originally Posted by DirtyDog

It's the touring with heavy luggage/ass/passenger that is gonna stress these parts. Offroad riding (unless you are doing HUGE jumps and crashing ALOT) is not likely to do near the damage to your subframe or hardware as touring. If you read the manual and see the manufacturer's suggested weight limits, you'd probably agree that most touring KLR riders are on overburdened bikes.

From experience, I speak.

I'm on my 3rd subframe in 70,000 miles. Failures were not due to hardware.

Never broken an upgraded bolt and I have NOT done the drill-through mod. My bolts are from ACE.

As long as you keep the upper bolts tight you probably won't ever break them regardless.

I am willing to bet that If everyone yanked the seat off and checked them, at least a few of them could use a turn or two to crank them down.

BTW, I did the drill-through upper subframe mod (on a couple of frames now), and I don't know if it's all in my head or what, but the bike just feels more solid. I reckon it's a good upgrade.

[DirtyDog]

Originally Posted by CA Stu

As long as you keep the upper bolts tight you probably won't ever break them regardless.

I am willing to bet that If everyone yanked the seat off and checked them, at least a few of them could use a turn or two to crank them down.

BTW, I did the drill-through upper subframe mod (on a couple of frames now), and I don't know if it's all in my head or what, but the bike just feels more solid. I reckon it's a good upgrade.

Yeah, my seat is removed frequently... I guess I probably check them fairly often.

There's a joke in there about "in your head" and loose screws, but I'll resist.

[RandoCommando]

Originally Posted by Aprilia

My local Auto Paint supplier keeps the kit in stock but plenty offer it online. Even Amazon carries it... POR15 KIT

Why tap to larger size? I'd re-tap current threads regardless. Once done you can quickly determine their condition. In my experience the treads will be just fine.

I figured I would have to tap to a larger size because of the rust making the threads smaller.
I guess when I pull it out and look at it, I'll see if the threads need to be tapped or not.
Then I'll try re-tapping the same size.
If that doesn't work, then I can move up a size I suppose.
If I'm able to keep the same screws and threads, that's a bonus!
Thanks again Aprilia!!!

[Tsotsie]

Originally Posted by DirtyDog

It's the touring with heavy luggage/ass/passenger that is gonna stress these parts. Offroad riding (unless you are doing HUGE jumps and crashing ALOT) is not likely to do near the damage to your subframe or hardware as touring. If you read the manual and see the manufacturer's suggested weight limits, you'd probably agree that most touring KLR riders are on overburdened bikes.

From experience, I speak.

I'm on my 3rd subframe in 70,000 miles. Failures were not due to hardware.

Never broken an upgraded bolt and I have NOT done the drill-through mod. My bolts are from ACE.

Can you give us more information on these breakages- the sub frame being that part which bolts onto and rear of the tank ? Or, pics of where the breaks occur?

I have not seen breaks on the KLR 'frame' other than those just before the top engine mount and the front down tube where it splits into two under the engine. Those two areas I can believe and are due to the frame flexing there - the cause of the instability under load and at speed. Loaded with panniers and standing still that 'mid frame' flex can be replicated. Those breaks are on heavily loaded bikes on long rides.

[Kawidad]

Originally Posted by Tsotsie

Can you give us more information on these breakages- the sub frame being that part which bolts onto and rear of the tank ? Or, pics of where the breaks occur?

I have not seen breaks on the KLR 'frame' other than those just before the top engine mount and the front down tube where it splits into two under the engine. Those two areas I can believe and are due to the frame flexing there - the cause of the instability under load and at speed. Loaded with panniers and standing still that 'mid frame' flex can be replicated. Those breaks are on heavily loaded bikes on long rides.

The project KLR I now own did just that for the PO. I think its due to excessive loading at that specific point. There are a lot of different forces at work on the backbone of the bike at that one spot. I had a professional welder weld up the crack and then weld a plate onto the top of the frame. IMO, that's what Kawasaki should have done at the factory and would be a must do if I were planning on long trip with heavy loads.

Also, on my bike the DOO cut loose on the PO at around 12k miles. The DOO itself broke and took out parts of the counter balancer assembly and the cam chain assembly. Why it cut loose is anybody's guess since the PO was a total douche when it came to motorcycle care and maintenance.

[jonyfi]

[QUOTE=Kawidad;18268078]The project KLR I now own did just that for the PO. I think its due to excessive loading at that specific point. There are a lot of different forces at work on the backbone of the bike at that one spot. I had a professional welder weld up the crack and then weld a plate onto the top of the frame. IMO, that's what Kawasaki should have done at the factory and would be a must do if I were planning on long trip with heavy loads.

Hey Kawidad, another picture request...can you post any pics on the reinforcments you had welded to the frame. I need to do a little more research on where commom failure areas are (while touring with a heavy load)...I have an friend who is a steele worker/welder and I might be up for having him do some reinforcing...
Thanks!

[nakedwaterskier]

I have an extra low mile US Marine frame. It came with the like new engine and I don't need the frame.
It is painted green. Anybody want it?

$75

[Canuman]

Remember these? The Tractor docs tube that used to be available at Tractor Supply for a coupla bucks? Some Jocko got hold of a case and is selling them for a twenty on line. That's nuts.

I bought three of them for under $25 shipped. I gave one to my manic mechanic for a docs holder on his hill-climbing rig.

Nice folks, very fast service and cheap tubes. Big gasket, long threads, and that stupid weep hole that you need to dab some silicone or Shoe Goo into before use.

They are found here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110833323557...8#ht_500wt_969

Looks like this:



Fits a liter fuel bottle or a tool roll. The shipping seems high, but they reduce it a lot for bulk orders. As I said, three tubes cost me under $25 USD to my door.

Trust this helps.

[thomas.tc.young]

Does anyone know the size of the bypass hose for thermo-bob. I cut mine a little too short and need to replace. I figure I can go to napa and pick it up. I guess I need the o/d and the I/d.

Thanks

[Canuman]

Cut a snippet off and I'm sure they will match it. Nothin' beats original dimensions..

[thomas.tc.young]

It's a catch 22 I need the bike to get to the auto store. Maybe I have the scraps though...

[DirtyDog]

Originally Posted by Tsotsie

Can you give us more information on these breakages- the sub frame being that part which bolts onto and rear of the tank ? Or, pics of where the breaks occur?

I have not seen breaks on the KLR 'frame' other than those just before the top engine mount and the front down tube where it splits into two under the engine. Those two areas I can believe and are due to the frame flexing there - the cause of the instability under load and at speed. Loaded with panniers and standing still that 'mid frame' flex can be replicated. Those breaks are on heavily loaded bikes on long rides.

Like I vaguely implied, my 2 previous subframe failures weren't due to frame-to-subframe hardware breakage. One (the most recent) was due to a welding modification I made to the mounting points when the M6 bolts stripped out. I could have re-tapped them, but went a different direction.



But the original was an outright breakage. My tailbag came loose while riding in the desert. The bag (still partially tethered to my rack) was sucked in with the rear tire and snapped the frame.



I have also cracked the main frame on the spine right in front of the top subframe attachment area. Ran a bead over this one. Been riding on it ever since.