KLR650 Only Thread......

[Jon B.]

I've given quite a bit of thought to this device.

And, I've decided that it simply, for me, is a waste of money. Here's why I think so:

The stock thermostat isn't a sealed "valve". There's a significant gap that allows coolant to pass through even when it's "closed".

A thermostat is an analog device,not digital. It isn't "open", then "closed" (on/off or one/zero). It opens gradually, as the coolant temperature increases.

The idea that your KLR's engine experiences shock cooling is probably absurd. As it gradually warms, coolant 'leaks' past the thermostat, allowing a gradual warm-up. When the engine finally reaches its upper operating temp, the thermostat very gradually opens, allowing coolant to pass through the water jacket, slowly cooling the cylinder.

Is the T-Bob an improvement over the stock t-stat? Very likely. Is it a required piece of hardware? Probably not.

Want one? Hell's Bells; buy it. Please don't tell me that I'm a damned fool for not installing one, though!

Jon

[nakedwaterskier]

TOP TEN KLR650 EASY CHEAPOS

1)Clear machinists face shield replacement lens for pre08 windshield
2)Drain front forks. Measure what you took out and replace with ATF
3)Rear shock--just change the spring
4)Grease rear shafts--just knock em out and leave what you knock em out
with in place so realignment doesn't become an issue. Waterproof grease is
cheap at auto parts stores.
5)HID headlights--Mine cost 25 dollars on ebay; 22 of that was shipping
6)Subframe bolts--hardened bolts are avail at some hardware stores for less than 5 bucks.
I don't care if they are Chinese as long as they are the right grade.
7)Blown engine? Don't try and rebuild it. Get a very low mile US military engine for less
than 1000 including shipping.
8)Open up airbox, drill slide, rejet, cut out and change end cap on stock exhaust to bigger outlet. If you don't
drill slide, you don't even have to take carb off.
9)Doohickey...I drilled hole in old upgraded doohickey that was in an engine that blew and used again
with torsion spring
10)Restuff your stock seat with memory foam. Easy with 4 hands

Larger front brake kit if you are riding on street most. Skid plate if you are riding on dirt most.

[nakedwaterskier]

whoops left out carb air screw drill out cap and adj to 2 turns out

[Kawidad]

Originally Posted by nakedwaterskier

TOP TEN KLR650 EASY CHEAPOS

6)Subframe bolts--hardened bolts are avail at some hardware stores for less than 5 bucks.
I don't care if they are Chinese as long as they are the right grade.

Or, you can do what I did..... The lower subframe bolts are the same size as some automotive bolts, which are all now metric. I used some hardened bolts that left over and donated from a Ford truck. They were the perfect KLR price: FREE!

[Pilot2Wheels]

I ride on street roads for about 20 miles, before hitting dirt roads in the Ocala National forest in Florida. Since it has a lot of places with sugar sand, do I keep the tires at the 21psi front and 28psi rear? I have to ride back home on the pavement without a way to inflate them back up.

New to this, and this may be one of those questions that's more opinion than fact, but figure if you don't ask, you'll never know. Maybe that's a good thing.

Wayne

[astrolump]

Originally Posted by Pilot2Wheels

I ride on street roads for about 20 miles, before hitting dirt roads in the Ocala National forest in Florida. Since it has a lot of places with sugar sand, do I keep the tires at the 21psi front and 28psi rear? I have to ride back home on the pavement without a way to inflate them back up.

New to this, and this may be one of those questions that's more opinion than fact, but figure if you don't ask, you'll never know. Maybe that's a good thing.

Wayne

ahhh...ocala..i ride there..um i mean fall there a lot...my avatar is in ocala btw.

yes if you air down your tires you will have a easier time on the sugar sand....not easy...easier.

for 9 american dollars you can buy a little slime air compressor at walmart with a built in gauge to air your tires back up when you are done pounding sand into your various openings.

you just need to either add a cigerette lighter socket to your bike or make some other way to plug the compressor in. ive had mine for 20k rough miles and the little guy keeps on pumping.

[BigT]

Originally Posted by Bigger Al

I'm on my second set of 705's on my '95 KLR, and they are simply amazing tires. I got almost 10K on the first rear, and 14K on the first front..

It's reviews like this that make me want to try a set of 705's on my '06 when my Shinko 244's wear out.

[Thanantos]

Originally Posted by astrolupm

yes if you air down your tires you will have a easier time on the sugar sand....not easy...easier.

Truer words have never been spoken.

Originally Posted by astrolupm

for 9 american dollars you can buy a little slime air compressor at walmart with a built in gauge to air your tires back up when you are done pounding sand into your various openings.

you just need to either add a cigerette lighter socket to your bike or make some other way to plug the compressor in. ive had mine for 20k rough miles and the little guy keeps on pumping.

We have some good sugar sand here in MI as well. With the stockers I would air down to around 14 in the front and 12 in the rear. Probably further than one needs to go, but I can tell you that it is like riding a different bike when you air down. The biggest difference being that riding sand is all about getting traction to the rear and with 28 in it you will have none.

Also not advisable, but I would ride on the road to the nearest gas station with the aired down tires.

Get the slime pump. Much better option.

[Thanantos]

Originally Posted by BigT

It's reviews like this that make me want to try a set of 705's on my '06 when my Shinko 244's wear out.

DO IT! If you ride on the road mostly that is.

I have yet to try them off road, but I am sure hard pack will be fine.

Although many people I know run the 244's (or the Kenda version) and love those too. That would probably be what I buy if I ever get back to more off road stuff.

[Nitro1970]

Do y'alls 705 rears run really hot? I have one in the garage I pulled off for something more aggressive and it always got very hot to the touch.

[ausfahrt]

Originally Posted by nakedwaterskier

TOP TEN KLR650 EASY CHEAPOS

1)Clear machinists face shield replacement lens for pre08 windshield
2)Drain front forks. Measure what you took out and replace with ATF
3)Rear shock--just change the spring
4)Grease rear shafts--just knock em out and leave what you knock em out
with in place so realignment doesn't become an issue. Waterproof grease is
cheap at auto parts stores.
5)HID headlights--Mine cost 25 dollars on ebay; 22 of that was shipping
6)Subframe bolts--hardened bolts are avail at some hardware stores for less than 5 bucks.
I don't care if they are Chinese as long as they are the right grade.
7)Blown engine? Don't try and rebuild it. Get a very low mile US military engine for less
than 1000 including shipping.
8)Open up airbox, drill slide, rejet, cut out and change end cap on stock exhaust to bigger outlet. If you don't
drill slide, you don't even have to take carb off.
9)Doohickey...I drilled hole in old upgraded doohickey that was in an engine that blew and used again
with torsion spring
10)Restuff your stock seat with memory foam. Easy with 4 hands

Larger front brake kit if you are riding on street most. Skid plate if you are riding on dirt most.

Good stuff NWS..thanks.

I have a few questions regarding #8 but I need to get my ducks in a row first. Stand by.

[BigT]

Originally Posted by Thanantos

DO IT! If you ride on the road mostly that is..

That's why I'm considering them. I like riding off road, but around here it's pretty hard to find dirt roads that aren't on private property.

I like the 244's a lot and have run for them for a couple of years with zero problems.. Thing is, I'm not getting anywhere near 10,000 miles out of them, and with, as I mention, so little dirt opportunities, I figure they're worth a try.

[WRC51]

Iam running a set of 705s on my 08, the tires have vauge feeling to me. On the street they are OK but like a few guys have said after a long blast on the freeway they are HOT to the touch. I dont like them at all in the dirt and or gravel really squirrely and they just dont seem to want to hook up. (running 34 rear 32 front)It may be a problem with the shocks and forks not working with them, but when I bought this bike it had MEFOs on it and was great on the pavement and in the dirt. The price of the MEFOs was pretty high so I tried these I dont think I will try them again, I am thinking maybe a 606 on the rear and a MT21 for the front. I know that they will probabally get about half the life but I really do about 50/50 in my travles.I have about 3200 miles on these and they dont show much wear at all, I would say that they might get 8K or so very easily.

[BigT]

Originally Posted by WRC51

On the street they are OK but like a few guys have said after a long blast on the freeway they are HOT to the touch..

Look on the bright side. If the tires are hot they're also likely sticky and grippy. Just what you want in the twisties.

[East Coast Rider]

Originally Posted by Thanantos

DO IT! If you ride on the road mostly that is.

I have yet to try them off road, but I am sure hard pack will be fine.

Although many people I know run the 244's (or the Kenda version) and love those too. That would probably be what I buy if I ever get back to more off road stuff.

705's are just fine on hard pack, but if you get too enthusiastic on loose stuff, you'll find yourself sliding, especially if you don't air down a bit