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Old 06-29-2012, 10:14 AM   #2911
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
No he is not correct - wish he was.

All it takes is to pop the cover and check them. My 08 at 2 k miles had 2 valves at the minimum- one a tight min. I set all at max then and they have hardly moved at now 41K + miles.

All bikes will be different- knowing is peace of mind. I recheck about every 10K.
Just pop the cover?
I thought you had to remove the side panels, seat, gas tank and upper engine mounts to remove the valve cover.
I have yet to check my valves at 5000 miles and hope it's this easy.
Sure wish there was a tech day coming up near the Philly area.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:31 AM   #2912
phideaux
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Would someone show me how to just..."pop the cover" to check the valve clearances?
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:16 AM   #2913
redog1
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Just went and pulled my owners manual,

first valve clearance check is at 15 thousand miles 24,000 kilometers. Considered an emmissions related issue. Mine would have gone 15,000 miles no problem. I've since put 12,000 miles on the bike since my initial adjustment at 12,200 miles and won't check them again until I hit 30,000. You'll know when you've gone too long, hard starting, detenation on hard acceleration (I know, I experienced it on my 1990) I am no authority but I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I have a lot of respect for a lot of you here, Totsie, you included, because you seem to know your stuff but I also believe this is something that is over thought. Be regular on your checks and adjustments and ride. When you notice the symptoms, address it. You let it go you'll have problems. ALL bikes are different and require different maint. intervals based on use and how you ride. DO what gives YOU peice on mind.
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:21 AM   #2914
Tsotsie
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Laugh

Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
Just pop the cover?
I thought you had to remove the side panels, seat, gas tank and upper engine mounts to remove the valve cover.
I have yet to check my valves at 5000 miles and hope it's this easy.
Sure wish there was a tech day coming up near the Philly area.


Yup, you have to remove all that except the engine mounts - but in the interests of brevity and not writing a complete service manual, the valve cover needs to be taken off and carefully put back. Make sure you dont exceed the torque value when replacing the 4 bolts - they can strip out easily. I am at work and dont have it handy - something like 29 " lbs?. You also have to remove the two plastic covers on the Left crankcase to turn the crank and sight the TDC marks. `

While in there - check to see if the spring on automaitc compression release mechnism on the end of the exhaust cam is intact. Found mine broken the last time in (40K)- in 3 pieces- still in the general area. It did not affect the starting or make any noise.

If the vlaves are too tight they can burn. Slappy = happy (to a point) . With wear they will close the tolerance. If KAWA had set all the valves at max before they left the factory, 15K would be a good time to check - BUT some of us have found out that is not the case.

Check and be happy!

Tsotsie screwed with this post 06-29-2012 at 11:39 AM
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:22 PM   #2915
SteelB12
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Does anyone know if an 09 shock will fit onto a 94 model??
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:39 PM   #2916
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
You also have to remove the two plastic covers on the Left crankcase to turn the crank and sight the TDC marks. `!
I'd add the comment, doggiepooch; TWO (2) piston TDC positions occur with each cycle of a four-cycle engine; valve clearance is checked at TDC between the compression and the power stroke; NOT at TDC between the exhaust and the intake stroke . . .

ALL valves are COMPLETELY closed at TDC between the compression stroke and the power stroke.

Generation 1 KLR Owner's Manuals recommended valve clearance inspection at initial service (500 miles, if I'm not mistaken); don't know why the interval was changed with the Generation 2's; no obvious valvetrain design changes occurred, AFAIK (maybe more durable materials were specified for valvetrain components). Regardless, checking valve clearance values at any point in service life does no harm, IMHO.
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:56 PM   #2917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post


Yup, you have to remove all that except the engine mounts - but in the interests of brevity and not writing a complete service manual, the valve cover needs to be taken off and carefully put back. Make sure you dont exceed the torque value when replacing the 4 bolts - they can strip out easily. I am at work and dont have it handy - something like 29 " lbs?. You also have to remove the two plastic covers on the Left crankcase to turn the crank and sight the TDC marks. `

While in there - check to see if the spring on automaitc compression release mechnism on the end of the exhaust cam is intact. Found mine broken the last time in (40K)- in 3 pieces- still in the general area. It did not affect the starting or make any noise.

If the vlaves are too tight they can burn. Slappy = happy (to a point) . With wear they will close the tolerance. If KAWA had set all the valves at max before they left the factory, 15K would be a good time to check - BUT some of us have found out that is not the case.

Check and be happy!
I thought the engine mounts were in the way of removing the valve cover? If not, that's a good thing. It means less work and frustration.
I have a Clymer's manual. I believe the torque values are in there. I will definitely torque to spec!
10-4 on the plastic covers for TDC marks.
I have no clue what spring you refer to. I've never been inside my engine other than the doo.
But I'll look at all springs that I can see when I get the valve cover off. Hopefully they will be intact.
So. After I check the clearances. If they aren't within spec, I have to buy new shims?
Or is there an adjustment to put them in spec?
Thanks
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2013 BMW F800GS (her name is FranGelicaS)
Please. Ride careful, ride safe, ride defensively! This thread should be mandatory reading!
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:57 PM   #2918
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
I'd add the comment, doggiepooch; TWO (2) piston TDC positions occur with each cycle of a four-cycle engine; valve clearance is checked at TDC between the compression and the power stroke; NOT at TDC between the exhaust and the intake stroke . . .

ALL valves are COMPLETELY closed at TDC between the compression stroke and the power stroke.

Generation 1 KLR Owner's Manuals recommended valve clearance inspection at initial service (500 miles, if I'm not mistaken); don't know why the interval was changed with the Generation 2's; no obvious valvetrain design changes occurred, AFAIK (maybe more durable materials were specified for valvetrain components). Regardless, checking valve clearance values at any point in service life does no harm, IMHO.
So how do I tell which TDC I'm looking at?
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2013 BMW F800GS (her name is FranGelicaS)
Please. Ride careful, ride safe, ride defensively! This thread should be mandatory reading!
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:30 PM   #2919
Whitebread117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelB12 View Post
Does anyone know if an 09 shock will fit onto a 94 model??
Yes, but the bolt is a lil different in length. I know a couple guys running 2nd gen shocks on their first gen.
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:53 PM   #2920
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
So how do I tell which TDC I'm looking at?
Here's one way:
Quote:
ALL valves are COMPLETELY closed at TDC between the compression stroke and the power stroke.
If this technique (i.e., observing the valves) is inconvenient, you may remove the spark plug and turn the engine by hand in its normal direction of rotation, e.g., with a wrench. Feel, with a finger, into the spark plug hole. When the compression stroke begins, air will be felt rushing from the cylinder. The TDC position at the end of the compression stroke is the proper one for measuring valve clearance.
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Old 06-29-2012, 06:10 PM   #2921
Tsotsie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
I thought the engine mounts were in the way of removing the valve cover? If not, that's a good thing. It means less work and frustration.
I have a Clymer's manual. I believe the torque values are in there. I will definitely torque to spec!
10-4 on the plastic covers for TDC marks.
I have no clue what spring you refer to. I've never been inside my engine other than the doo.
But I'll look at all springs that I can see when I get the valve cover off. Hopefully they will be intact.
So. After I check the clearances. If they aren't within spec, I have to buy new shims?
Or is there an adjustment to put them in spec?
Thanks
There is 1 spring- fine and about 3/4" long that at rest pulls two weights together on the right end of the exhaust camshaft. You should not see any other springs. The valve springs are below thickness discs upon which the cam lobes run.

Important. When 1st opening the cover, measure and record each of the valve gaps. If you are out of tolerance you are then going to have to remove the cams to lift out the spacer discs/shims from their buckets. These discs have a 3 or 4 digit number on them (their thickness) and which are always assembled facing down - so that the cam does not wear it off . Write that number down for each valve. That disc number thickness and the gap you need are what is needed to calculate the new adjustment disc/shim. A calculation sheet is available widely on the net. There is no mechanical adjustment - just shims of different thicknesses. Yes, you have to buy the shim thickness you need.

I was wrong. The torque value for the cam cover bolts is 69 " lbs or 7.8 Nm. The camshaft caps are 106 " lbs or 12Nm
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:37 PM   #2922
RandoCommando
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Thanks

Thanks XDragRacer and Tsotsie!
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2013 BMW F800GS (her name is FranGelicaS)
Please. Ride careful, ride safe, ride defensively! This thread should be mandatory reading!
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:51 AM   #2923
SteelB12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitebread117 View Post
Yes, but the bolt is a lil different in length. I know a couple guys running 2nd gen shocks on their first gen.

Cool, so all I need to do is take a trip to ACE.
Appreciate it
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:58 PM   #2924
SkiBumBrian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Here's one way:If this technique (i.e., observing the valves) is inconvenient, you may remove the spark plug and turn the engine by hand in its normal direction of rotation, e.g., with a wrench. Feel, with a finger, into the spark plug hole. When the compression stroke begins, air will be felt rushing from the cylinder. The TDC position at the end of the compression stroke is the proper one for measuring valve clearance.
Lazy T... The T on its side. Look for cam lobes facing opposite directions and the lazy T...
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Old 07-01-2012, 12:28 PM   #2925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
Picked up a set of those cheap pegs from fleabay that don't include the springs. Where can I find springs for these?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandalscout View Post
I have the same pegs and ordered a set of DR650 footpeg springs (I used 1996 model year springs, a couple of bucks each from RockyMountainATV) as mentioned by others. It required the grind off about 1/3 of the peg base, AFTER I had cut off the spacer on the peg. Not sure that I'm super comfortable with that much cut off, but it's working thus far.

Reporting back. I used Moose Racing's foot peg spring part no 1620-0464 and it works perfectly with no cutting, drilling, pounding, bending or frustration! It's listed at the bottom of this pdf parts sheet: http://assets-static.lemansnet.com/s...roFootpegs.pdf

'06 KLR650
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