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Old 07-12-2012, 12:56 PM   #3136
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stromius View Post
Up next....12v outlet. Any other solutions than running it to the battery on this 95? I think there's an accessory pigtail in the instrument loom. Anyone have suggestions on how best to do this without butchering the electricals or looking like someone got too much from Radio Shack?
I favor separate, fused circuitry directly to the battery terminals, for higher current capacity and stand-alone redundancy, but . . . you MAY use the "City Light" terminals, low-current availability, fused from the main fuse, common to the RED wire, I think.

Why NOT use the city light circuitry? If you blow a fuse with something from your auxiliary outlet, you'll shut down essentially all your on-board electrics. If separately fused, you can still operate with lights, signals, etc.

Trace 'em out (Generation 1), here: http://www.bigcee.com/faq/KLR650-col...ng-diagram.jpg

XDragRacer screwed with this post 07-12-2012 at 01:06 PM
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:09 PM   #3137
sandalscout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Why NOT use the city light circuitry? If you blow a fuse with something from your auxiliary outlet, you'll shut down essentially all your on-board electrics. If separately fused, you can still operate with lights, signals, etc.
Same here, but I did find the city lights circuit useful as a signal for my relay in my dash mounted fuse block.
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:05 PM   #3138
ausfahrt
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New Spring

I just received my shock with the heavy duty spring installed from Top Gun! Since the say the stock shock is set up for a 160 pound rider and I tip the scales at 245, this should be a big improvement.

This is the stiffest of the 3 springs that they offer and is rated for 280-300 pounds. Is should be perfect for me and some gear. The price with shipping both ways came to just over $110.00 I can't wait to bolt it up this weekend.

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Old 07-12-2012, 03:26 PM   #3139
FixerDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMotorrad View Post
Could someone please tell me what those loops of steel behind the passenger footpegs are for? They are welded to the passenger footpeg brackets. Are they just there for tie-downs for strapping luggage to the seat?
They do a wonderful job of keeping my boots out of the rotating tire when my back starts hurting and I flip down the passenger pegs with my heels while riding. Yes, I find hooking my heels on the passenger pegs a very nice way to change up the riding style while cruising on the highway. Seems to flex the back in a good way.

Yes, they are safety guards - and useful ones at that. I can't be the only tall guy with a sore back that finds the rear pegs a blessing.

David...
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:51 PM   #3140
mr. matteeanne
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Originally Posted by Danger4u2 View Post
There are a lot of complaints about the 2008 model year about using oil. My friends 08 was rebuild by Kawasaki on their dime. They also had a wiring problem. His bike fried the wiring and Kawi replaced the whole wiring loom. I like the Gen. 1 bikes, less plastic to break. Gen. 2 bikes have better front forks and a different swing arm. I would like to have a Gen. 2 bike with my Gen.1 body work. (mine's a 2007)
I had a 2008 and it contained every factory defect ever reported. My 2009 is tight like a tiger. After too many years of owning old school KLR's, I let my dick do the talking when the 08' came out and paid the price.
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:58 PM   #3141
RevBill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FixerDave View Post
They do a wonderful job of keeping my boots out of the rotating tire when my back starts hurting and I flip down the passenger pegs with my heels while riding. Yes, I find hooking my heels on the passenger pegs a very nice way to change up the riding style while cruising on the highway. Seems to flex the back in a good way.

Yes, they are safety guards - and useful ones at that. I can't be the only tall guy with a sore back that finds the rear pegs a blessing.

David...
.. well since I use my rear pegs for this exact use, I'd like to think you're in good company .. lol ..
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:34 PM   #3142
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stromius View Post
Up next....12v outlet. Any other solutions than running it to the battery on this 95? I think there's an accessory pigtail in the instrument loom. Anyone have suggestions on how best to do this without butchering the electricals or looking like someone got too much from Radio Shack?
Stefan
I used the "City Lights" wires hanging under/behind the instruments and put a 12V outlet on my bike.
The wires are just hanging behind/under the instrument cluster.
I don't recall the colors, but I believe the positive one is brown.
Use a meter to determine which is the positive for sure.
They use female bullet connectors. So no need to cut the wires.
Just buy a 12V outlet and put male bullet connectors on the wires and plug in.
I ran my outlet to the handlebars and zip tied it.
It works great.
Mind you, this circuit is low voltage.
I use it to provide constant power to my GPS.
If you try using anything that draws a lot of power, such as an air pump, you'll blow the fuse that operates all your lights.
Ask me how I know this.
I bought a separate dash board that is wired direct to the battery.
My dash has a 12V outlet, a BMW style outlet and four switches with indicator lights.
Two of the switches operate the outlets.
The other two switches are not used right now.
One will be for auxiliary lights.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:29 PM   #3143
RevBill
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imvhe ..

.. the "city lights" feed is great for feeding phones and mp3 players .. things that turning the power off when you stop won't effect their use and/or things that you don't want to leave on while draining your battery when you are stopped because you can't see them while they are unattended/unseen and soon forgotten ..

.. but for your GPS run a fused power source that is hard-wired (and switched if you want to control when it is on) and won't turn off when you stop for gas .. some GPS mfgs make "hard wire" cables/adapters and they are perfect for this (magellan makes a great mini-usb one) .. it's a real kill-joy to wait for maps to reload every time you stop .. or you lose info/data by turning the unit off and on constantly (it happens) .. etc., etc., ..

.. mind you now .. my rig is currently (pun intended) not set up this way, but it will be the next time I dig into the power system and re-wire my setup to work the way I want it to .. and yes, I really dislike waiting for the 24k topo maps to load before I can even tell the GPS where to go (and after waiting, I REALLY want to tell Garmin where to go) ..

.. one thing I did right early on was the (although un-switched) direct-power 12V socket "hidden" up under the rear for my tire compressor .. that has come in handy multiple times for many many uses, not just the compressor ..

.. a 12V "jumper plug" that is un-fused comes in handy .. though honestly, rarely used .. easy to make by removing the fuse from a battery tender cable ..

.. food for thought .. your plug for your battery tender is a great fused power source also .. you can by extra plugs to use with other devices (like a 12v air compressor) .. you can also buy adapters/cords to use with your heated gear .. and visa versa .. you can buy adapters for your heated clothing pigtail to use with your battery tender and other devices .. lol .. it's and endless cycle really ..

.. fwiw .. I have one of those "BMW" powerlet sockets on my dash .. never used it .. it will be getting replaced when I re-do my setup ..

.. more food for thought .. they are expensive, but get the EuroControl for your lights (they are plug-and-play) rather than putting in a kill switch on your dash (or elsewhere) for your headlight ..

.. somehow I have a weird feeling I have typed this information before .. deja vu???
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:41 PM   #3144
GSMotorrad
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Can anyone direct me to a picture of the "city lights" wires? Are they on the 08 - 2012 model Gen II's? Thanks!
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:49 PM   #3145
Unstable Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMotorrad View Post
Has anyone come up with a solution to save the paint on the right side of the motor? I always notice my boot is rubbing all over it, and then I see pictures of KLR's with the same problem all over the place.

Or I could just not worry about it, and let a KLR be a KLR. It's just so black right now, that I can foresee it sticking out really obviously when it rubs down to metal.

I've seen protective clear plastic sheets to protect paint, but that part gets a little warmer than gas tank areas.

I need to build up one of those "wire hoopages", like on the rear passenger pegs, to keep my boot away from the delicate parts.
I had same issue, bike only days old, the metal lace hooks on my work boots knocked all the paint off the right side.
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:50 PM   #3146
Many Thunders
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Introduction...

Howdy, folks.

I am a long time rider of dirt and dual sport (since I was 7). I purchased a "New to ME" KLR 650 1993 about 2 years ago. I used to ride on a KLR 600 when that was all there was back in college. I love my beast. She keeps up with the DR's when I am feeling perky. I plan to be a regular poster here.

My other recent purchase is another "New to me". A 2002 Super Sherpa with only 350 miles on it! Yes, they really do exist. I was as amazed as you probably are. Garage kept, too. I will be on the Sherpa thread as well.

See yall here and there real soon.

Scott
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:50 PM   #3147
sandalscout
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Originally Posted by sandalscout View Post
Roger that.... I guess it just freaked me out being "that far" off from the in-spec valves.... but, we are talking really small numbers here, so I guess it really isn't that bad... thanks man!


Thanks to everyone with pointers on my valve issue. Got the new shims in today, finally, and got everything back together enough to test fire it up. All seems well! Two valves are DEAD on where I wanted them, one is in the middle of the range, and one is .03mm over. Not sure how that one happened, but I don't think it'll be much of a problem. For some weird reason, when I got everything back together, ensured that the cam gears where still on the starting chain position, and then put the tensioner back in, the sideways "T" is more to the left in the viewing window down below (after turning the crank 4 times by hand). It's still visible in the window, but when the gear lines are facing forward, the mark is noticably off center. Everything looks good, sounds fine, etc, so I fired the bike up. Started on the first crank and sounds just like it did before.

I'm concerned that perhaps the cam tensioner is too loose, but perhaps after running for a few seconds it has adjusted out? I did hear the tensioner click out on install. Should I pull it back apart and check everything again?

Thanks again for all of the help!
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:55 PM   #3148
sandalscout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSMotorrad View Post
Can anyone direct me to a picture of the "city lights" wires? Are they on the 08 - 2012 model Gen II's? Thanks!
It is my understanding that they are on Gen I bikes only. Sorry.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RevBill View Post
.. but for your GPS run a fused power source that is hard-wired (and switched if you want to control when it is on) and won't turn off when you stop for gas
What Garmin are you running? I have a 60CSx and do not have this issue. Is beeps and tells me it has lost power, and it kills the back light, but it stays on.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:25 PM   #3149
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandalscout View Post
For some weird reason, when I got everything back together, ensured that the cam gears where still on the starting chain position, and then put the tensioner back in, the sideways "T" is more to the left in the viewing window down below (after turning the crank 4 times by hand). It's still visible in the window, but when the gear lines are facing forward, the mark is noticably off center.!
Cam chain may have jumped a sprocket tooth (or more).

When the camshaft sprocket index and witness marks line up, with the cam chain tensioned, the "T" on the rotor should be centered in its window.
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:34 PM   #3150
sandalscout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Cam chain may have jumped a sprocket tooth (or more).

When the camshaft sprocket index and witness marks line up, with the cam chain tensioned, the "T" on the rotor should be centered in its window.
While I was almost completely certain that I had double checked my own marks (I marked the gear and chain to ensure it didn't move) I was obviously mistaken. I decided to go down to the garage, pull the cover again and check the timing from the ground up. It was, in fact, one tooth off. Loosened the tensioner and the exhaust cam, and was able to get it lined up again.

I feel like such a tool, but I should be good to go now. Wife was sleeping so I didn't fire it up again, but I anticipate zero problems.

Thanks man!
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