KLR650 Only Thread......

[DesertDuster]

Originally Posted by Hessian42

Could really use input on two things.

New KLR owner and not crazy about it's highway capabilities. I know join the club. The sweet spot on this bike seems to be right around 4-4.5k rpms however this is only 60mph. Was wondering if a +1 front sprocket or maybe a -1 rear would help me get closer to 75mph and still be in the sweet spot getting good mpgs. really missing a 6th gear!

planning a 10k+ trip and need to be able to roll highway speeds with myself (185lbs) and 60-65 lbs of gear.

second if anyone has any input on the Bridgestone TW 21 and 22 tires. specially millage and offroad manners. I'm in between getting these or the avon AM24 gripsters.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

It looks like others have asked the question too?

http://www.google.com/#q=site:advrid...pw.r_qf.&cad=b

[McRuss]

A doohickey tool set is on its way to Geepn and no one else has spoken up. So if your doohickey needs done, give him a PM shout and get on the list. The rules are simple: use the tools, put a punch mark on the wrench (just to keep track of how many it has done), and ship them to the next person. The set consists of a homemade wrench and the rotor puller bolt in a well worn but sufficiently padded box. And if you don't know what the doohickey is or why you should, JGI! (just google it).

PS, weighing in on a couple posts: the Shinko 705s are great for the price. Previously I used AM24 Grippsters and had nothing but praise for them but I can buy front and rear 705s for about the price of the rear AM24. As for the chain guard, mine came off about 20,000 miles ago but I kept the lower white chain guide. Maybe Gen IIs are different?

[rabid2ride]

I'm noob to this site but I feel like this may be the place to come to for some advice in this predicament.

So my girlfriend rides an 07 KLR 650 and about a month ago before we took off on a four day trip I noticed her kill switch was spilling its guts ( red switch popping out, springs visible...) I put the switch to run and and duct taped over it and told her not to touch it, key only.

After the trip I found a used kill switch on ebay off an '08 KLR and thought I'd be able to make it work. Before I realized that the '08 switch was a 4 wire (07 is a five wire) I pulled the duct tape off and the original kill switch was ruined. At that point I just tried to hot wire it via some threads I read and I could not get it to start. it would turn over all day via the starter button which still worked but I could not get a spark out of it. During the hot wire ordeal I blew the main fuse a few times and kept replacing it. The main fuse is good and from what I understand gen 1 klrs don't need that part of the electrical system to fire.

At this point I went to the stealership and ordered a 07 klr kill switch thinking that possibly putting the correct kill switch on the bike would re-ignite the ignition circuit. New Kill switch installed and still no spark out of the bike!

The bike was running when I took the original kill switch apart and something I did in the process has caused the bike not to spark. I doubt its clutch or kick stand switch; it would be to coincidental.

Is it possible a fried the ECU when trying to hot wire the kill switch (I definitely made some wrong connections and blew the main fuse a few times). Or am I missing something really obvious???

Any help that helps me not look like an idiot while working on my girlfriends bike is greatly appreciated!

If I posted this in the wrong place please let me know, like I said I'm a rookie at this and computers in general. Thanks!

[DMackey]

Originally Posted by tattoogunman

Hmm, this is going to put the KLR back on my short list of bikes that I want to get. Too bad I can't afford a new one - maybe in a few years when there are some used yellow ones around In the mean time, if I pick up a KLR, I'm just going to get it painted. I'm all about visibility and that's one of the things that bug me with the KLR is that most of their paint schemes are just too dark.

I don't like the looks of the 2008-to current KLRs. If I want a Ninja looking bike I'll BUY one, Get ride of that new ugly fairing. Ugh!!

I have a 2006 KLR myself. Picked it up on eBay in Albany, NY Last Dec 12th for $3k. This is my first KLR and I'm loving every minute on it. I put almost 1500 miles on it so far. It had 7k on it when I got it.

[XDragRacer]

Originally Posted by rabid2ride

Any help that helps me not look like an idiot while working on my girlfriends bike is greatly appreciated!

I have my limitations, rabid2ride!

Here's a wiring diagram.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwAA&dur=2828

Look at the IGNITION SWITCH MATRIX (upper left of diagram) and the ENGINE STOP SWITCH schematic (as labeled). Chances are, you grounded the exciter coil lead to the CDI when you transplanted the new kill switch.

On the matrix, pay attention to what should be connected, and what should NOT be connected, when the ignition switch is ON. Chase the continuity and connections with a multimeter, and you should be fine.

[thesurvivalist]

If i fit the pelican 1550 cases to the panniers on a klr, would the corners of the cases dig into my passengers rear legs?

[arkansas adv]

Originally Posted by Hessian42

Could really use input on two things.

New KLR owner and not crazy about it's highway capabilities. I know join the club. The sweet spot on this bike seems to be right around 4-4.5k rpms however this is only 60mph. Was wondering if a +1 front sprocket or maybe a -1 rear would help me get closer to 75mph and still be in the sweet spot getting good mpgs. really missing a 6th gear!

planning a 10k+ trip and need to be able to roll highway speeds with myself (185lbs) and 60-65 lbs of gear.

second if anyone has any input on the Bridgestone TW 21 and 22 tires. specially millage and offroad manners. I'm in between getting these or the avon AM24 gripsters.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

My wife and I did a two up trip that was about 800 miles. I was running a 16 tooth sprocket with the same Bridgestone tires (TW21 and 22). I have the Avon gripster now. The 16 tooth sprocket did not affect fuel mileage. I rode mostly interstate with a VTX1300 and the bike was always under 5000 rpm unless passing. Stock rear sprocket, weight about the same. We run 75 according to speedometer which is 70 according to my gps. The rear tire with 35 psi was racing slick smooth in 4,000 miles but seemed to handle well anywhere I put it and i put it though everything from pavement, to mud, to rocks, to sand..... Front TW21 tire is still on my bike and looks as if it will outlast the rear and the rear gripster that is installed now. I love it. My mileage on the gripster has not been great but I would say a little better than the TW tires. Handling is same. I will be going back to the Kenda 761. You might look at the Avon distanzia. That would be my choice for that trip. My wife runs it and will get excellent mileage and rides almost everywhere I do with it.

[Rode2Nowhere]

Originally Posted by Hessian42

Could really use input on two things.

New KLR owner and not crazy about it's highway capabilities. I know join the club. The sweet spot on this bike seems to be right around 4-4.5k rpms however this is only 60mph. Was wondering if a +1 front sprocket or maybe a -1 rear would help me get closer to 75mph and still be in the sweet spot getting good mpgs. really missing a 6th gear!

planning a 10k+ trip and need to be able to roll highway speeds with myself (185lbs) and 60-65 lbs of gear.

second if anyone has any input on the Bridgestone TW 21 and 22 tires. specially millage and offroad manners. I'm in between getting these or the avon AM24 gripsters.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

I rode my '08 down to Orlando (from upstate NY) and back last summer, and had done an ironbutt SS1k previous to that, so I pretty much have "what does my highway-going KLR need" honed out.

If your primary concern is low RPM's and not so much acceleration, I'd jump right up to a 17T front sprocket. It'll drop your RPMs down almost a full 1k at highway speed. The tradeoff is that the ability to accelerate quickly is noticeably less. On my latest KLR I plan on putting a 685 kit in to help in this area. If your trip involves mountain passes, the 17t probably isn't a good option.

Also, just my humblest of opinions, but EVERY highway-going KLR needs a Madstad Robo Bracket screen. I've had 5 different windscreen configurations on my 3 KLRs, and this is the absolute best windshield I've found. Infinite adjustment/placement options (infinite in the "normal" range. You can't put it under the bike. ), offering me quiet and virtually turbulence-free air around my helmet. Earbuds heard perfectly for 20 hours of straight, fatigue-free riding. No, I don't work for them. I wish.

My Avon Gripsters looked virtually unworn when I returned to NY following my 95+ degree 2600 mile FL trip.

All these replies should get you a decent idea for a starting point, anyway.

[Danger4u2]

Originally Posted by thesurvivalist

If i fit the pelican 1550 cases to the panniers on a klr, would the corners of the cases dig into my passengers rear legs?

I use the Caribou system with Pelican cases, no problem for a back passenger. If you are mounting them have someone hold them in place and step back and check it out.

http://cariboucases.com/store/?name=...=i&item=000125

[Asatrur]

Originally Posted by Danger4u2

Backpack is not a good idea with a passenger. It will be in the kids face all the time. No passenger no problem.

Yep, when I have my med camelback on there is no room between the the pack and rear tail bag.

I like the duffle bag idea.

[arkansas adv]

If you run your straps through the handles of a duffel bag the bag can to side to side or forward or backwards and all duffel bags have handles. I also have a wide rear rack at 24 inches but if the duffel sags to much on the sides make sure the tent or something sturdy is in the bottom to brace it or stick a piece of wood in the bottom the length of the bag. I have used motorcycle specific duffel bags and I always end up using my old camo bag. Just seems to work better for me and I like only one zipper and one compartment that is hard to find with motorcycle specific bags. For those smaller things needing their own compartment i have a tank bag and a small tail bag in the duffel. no need for all the extra zippers and stuff.

When riding solo turn the duffel longways on the bike and it makes for a good drivers back rest. just make sure you put something soft in that end.

I also normally put a bungee net over the duffel. If it warms up and you need to shed a layer you can just pop it under the net in a few seconds and your good to go again.

[CA Stu]

Originally Posted by rabid2ride

I'm noob to this site but I feel like this may be the place to come to for some advice in this predicament.

So my girlfriend rides an 07 KLR 650 and about a month ago before we took off on a four day trip I noticed her kill switch was spilling its guts ( red switch popping out, springs visible...) I put the switch to run and and duct taped over it and told her not to touch it, key only.

After the trip I found a used kill switch on ebay off an '08 KLR and thought I'd be able to make it work. Before I realized that the '08 switch was a 4 wire (07 is a five wire) I pulled the duct tape off and the original kill switch was ruined. At that point I just tried to hot wire it via some threads I read and I could not get it to start. it would turn over all day via the starter button which still worked but I could not get a spark out of it. During the hot wire ordeal I blew the main fuse a few times and kept replacing it. The main fuse is good and from what I understand gen 1 klrs don't need that part of the electrical system to fire.

At this point I went to the stealership and ordered a 07 klr kill switch thinking that possibly putting the correct kill switch on the bike would re-ignite the ignition circuit. New Kill switch installed and still no spark out of the bike!

The bike was running when I took the original kill switch apart and something I did in the process has caused the bike not to spark. I doubt its clutch or kick stand switch; it would be to coincidental.

Is it possible a fried the ECU when trying to hot wire the kill switch (I definitely made some wrong connections and blew the main fuse a few times). Or am I missing something really obvious???

Any help that helps me not look like an idiot while working on my girlfriends bike is greatly appreciated!

If I posted this in the wrong place please let me know, like I said I'm a rookie at this and computers in general. Thanks!

I find it hard to believe you fried the ECU, did you check the fuses with a 12v tester? Sometimes they look good but they aren't.

If you have the old blown up kill switch / starter button, it's easy to hotwire the bike:




There are a ton of questions to answer...
Have you removed the plug from the head and held it against the motor while cranking the starter to visually check for spark?
Have you disabled the safety switches on the bike?
Is there fuel in the carb?
Are you engaging the choke?

I'm sure it's something easily remedied.

Good luck!

[Danger4u2]

Video answer to the question, your the man!! AAA+

[XDragRacer]

+ 1.

Video shows, BROWN to YELLOW/RED activates starter; BLACK/YELLOW to BLACK/WHITE shuts 'er down.

BLACK/YELLOW to BLACK/WHITE is the kill mechanism also from the ignition switch when in LOCK/OFF/PARK position.

[Sourjon]

Originally Posted by Sourjon

Thanks everyone for chiming in. The reason I asked is last filter change I put a KN in because they had no stocker. Now I feel a little surging/stumbling in the 4000-4500 range when steadily cruising down the highway. Twist the throttle and bike pulls strong up through the rpms. Pulls strong from dead stop up through the gears. It's that steady throttle at about 1/4 open where it feels like it's maybe running out of gas but the tank's full. I cannot swear to it but I think it's related to the air filter.

John

Just to follow up on this...

I got a chance last night to clean and reoil the stock foam filter and swap it for the K&N. Stumbling is gone. I'm sure there's some jetting change that'll make it run correctly with the K&N but I'd rather ride. Headed out west to Wyoming for two weeks so I'm probably better off with the foam and oil anyway.

John