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Old 11-19-2012, 09:10 AM   #4291
IDRIDR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bomber60015 View Post
I have seen very few vehicle purchases between friends go well, or end with the friendship unmarred . . . . . .

YMMV, of course.
I've bought 3 motorcycles, an ATV, and 2 vehicles from friends with no resulting issues. Buy it and expect no more. If it blows the next day, that was simply coincidence because a friend wouldn't sell something to a friend knowing there are significant, undeclared issues. A lot depends on the buyer and their expectations
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:12 AM   #4292
MacNoob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skiridefastforever View Post
I put in bel ray thumper full synth, I guess this was a mistake? The guy in the local shop said this would trash my clutch. I know there are tons of oil debates out there but this guy said to stay away from the synth. I thought I would start using the rosella because so many people seem to be happy with it and the price is right but is a synth. Is it going to be hard on the clutch?
Woo hoo an oil thread!

Belray Thumper: "Meets API SM and JASO MA2 requirements For 4-stroke motorcycles with or without wet clutches"

You'll be just fine. No problems with synth. The issue is potentially with oils that include friction modifiers - that show "energy conserving" in the API donut symbol. The friction modifiers are not helpful for the wet clutch.

I've used both synthetic and conventional Rotella and they both work just like oil.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:42 AM   #4293
Aprilia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacNoob View Post
Woo hoo an oil thread!

Belray Thumper: "Meets API SM and JASO MA2 requirements For 4-stroke motorcycles with or without wet clutches"

You'll be just fine. No problems with synth. The issue is potentially with oils that include friction modifiers - that show "energy conserving" in the API donut symbol. The friction modifiers are not helpful for the wet clutch.

I've used both synthetic and conventional Rotella and they both work just like oil.
Well said...

Biggest difference with the KLR that I've found is you should be changing far more frequently than most other bikes. Mine is every 2500 miles and oil filter every other time. Thus why my KLR will never see anything more expensive than Rotella.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:59 AM   #4294
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacNoob View Post
Woo hoo an oil thread!

Belray Thumper: "Meets API SM and JASO MA2 requirements For 4-stroke motorcycles with or without wet clutches"

You'll be just fine. No problems with synth. The issue is potentially with oils that include friction modifiers - that show "energy conserving" in the API donut symbol. The friction modifiers are not helpful for the wet clutch.

I've used both synthetic and conventional Rotella and they both work just like oil.
Indeed!

Yet, Kawasaki issues no written caution I'm aware of against either friction modifiers or energy-conserving lubricants, AFAIK.

Also, I have no observation or direct personal experience with any wet clutch compromised by the use of "friction modifiers," or oil associated with "energy conserving."

I supose, zinc compounds, present in many premium synthetic oils (Mobil 1?), could be considered a "friction modifier."

While different lubricity characteristics likely produce different clutch engagement characteristics, any significant maintenance issue effects of friction modifiers and energy conserving may be . . . well, exaggerated.

Contrary personal observations and experiences welcomed.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:08 AM   #4295
DirtyDog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Indeed!

Yet, Kawasaki issues no written caution I'm aware of against either friction modifiers or energy-conserving lubricants, AFAIK.

Also, I have no observation or direct personal experience with any wet clutch compromised by the use of "friction modifiers," or oil associated with "energy conserving."

I supose, zinc compounds, present in many premium synthetic oils (Mobil 1?), could be considered a "friction modifier."

While different lubricity characteristics likely produce different clutch engagement characteristics, any significant maintenance issue effects of friction modifiers and energy conserving may be . . . well, exaggerated.

Contrary personal observations and experiences welcomed.
I'm pretty sure my KLR owner's manual cautions against the friction modifiers. I'm certain my honda's manual does... same for my Clymer repair manual.

But I may be wrong. I'll try to check it later if I can remember.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:11 AM   #4296
Rode2Nowhere
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Best oil advice out there.
Quote:
What type of oil should I use?
How much oil should I put in?
How often should I change my oil?

On any motorcycle list, any of these questions will provoke a response greater than that to the assasination of Archduke Ferdinand. The answers are basically, "motor oil," "enough," and "when you need to."
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:33 PM   #4297
Brunssd
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Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
Holy balls that's a lot of mileage for a bike tire.
The official tally was 19,305 kilometres (commuting mostly) before I got skeered and spooned on a new one . The last Gripster I had, I got 17,823 kliks on a Trans Canada trip. (including the TLH) They wear like iron but don't seem to like mud much.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:32 PM   #4298
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
I'm pretty sure my KLR owner's manual cautions against the friction modifiers.
Citation, please!

Then, you shall have informed me; haven't noticed any prohibition on friction modifiers in any Kawasaki owner's or service manual, but . . . none of my teachers ever suggested I was a particularly careful reader.

Beyond that, have you ever personally observed or experienced a KLR clutch damaged from exposure to friction modifiers?
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:09 PM   #4299
redog1
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Valve stem seals....

Anyone ever replaced them without pulling the head? My 1990 needs them, old age has caught up to them but it runs so good, I hate to pull it down that far. 32K on it. Neither of my service manuals address any kind of service to the valve system (other than routine maint) without pulling the heard. Thoughts?
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:38 PM   #4300
bomber60015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
I've bought 3 motorcycles, an ATV, and 2 vehicles from friends with no resulting issues. Buy it and expect no more. If it blows the next day, that was simply coincidence because a friend wouldn't sell something to a friend knowing there are significant, undeclared issues. A lot depends on the buyer and their expectations
Well done, Rider!
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:07 PM   #4301
Aprilia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
I've bought 3 motorcycles, an ATV, and 2 vehicles from friends with no resulting issues. Buy it and expect no more. If it blows the next day, that was simply coincidence because a friend wouldn't sell something to a friend knowing there are significant, undeclared issues. A lot depends on the buyer and their expectations
I've purchased several bikes as well as sold several bikes to friends....no issues. Now, try you and buddy buying/sharing a bike. The two of us had been friends for 15+ years and we both wanted a Goldwing for a any 2up LD riding. Good part is we are both small business owners and saw the need to have a contract drawn up spelling out everything...maintenance, normal wear/tear costs, contingency if one wanted out of the contract, accident insurance, blah blah blah. We had the bike for nearly 3 yrs together and racked up over 30K miles on it. While neither of us felt there would ever be an issue its nice having a legal contract to spell out what would happen "if". I'd do it again...
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:02 PM   #4302
XpressCS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
I've bought 3 motorcycles, an ATV, and 2 vehicles from friends with no resulting issues. Buy it and expect no more. If it blows the next day, that was simply coincidence because a friend wouldn't sell something to a friend knowing there are significant, undeclared issues. A lot depends on the buyer and their expectations
Whenever I buy from friends, or whenever friends buy from me, it's always all sales are final, no refunds, always paid in full.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rode2Nowhere View Post
My train of thought says:

"Motorcycle oil."

"Enough to keep it from seizing."

"When it needs to be."

My personal experience says STAY FAR AWAY from engine oils made for automobiles. I've used them before, a couple of times with brand new clutches, the end result was all of my power being lost through the clutch. Slips like bald tires on ice. Lesson learned, and also $100+ down the drain
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:15 PM   #4303
East Coast Rider
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Funny...I have NEVER used motorcycle oil in my motorcycles. Never a clutch issue, whether the clutch pack was new or had 50K on the plates. Mobil Delvac 15w40 and Mobil1 15w50 auto oils. Even conventional Castrol 20w50 automotive oil a couple changes when I couldn't get the other two.

40K on the stock clutch and it's doing just fine without ever having MC specific in the crankcase.
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East Coast Rider screwed with this post 11-20-2012 at 08:09 AM
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:34 PM   #4304
schaffer40
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Clutch cable issue

I am in the process of replacing a broken clutch cable. The actuator arm came unseated while I was removing the old cable. When I rotate it and it sits flush on the case there is not enough cable to attach at the clutch lever and the actuator. Is this the correct starting position for the actuator lever when not attached??


When I lift it and rotate the attachment end towards the center of the engine and it stops there is a gap.


It seems to me that there is not enough cable out of the sleeve at each end to attach correctly.

Thanks,
Craig
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:14 AM   #4305
The Stew
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I was wondering if anybody has any Doo tools sitting around they wouldnt mind sending my way. Id pay shipping! Id rather spend $40.00 instead of $140.00.
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