KLR650 Only Thread......

[newcastleadam]

Originally Posted by The Stew

I was wondering if anybody has any Doo tools sitting around they wouldnt mind sending my way. Id pay shipping! Id rather spend $40.00 instead of $140.00.

PM sent

[sandalscout]

Craig, with the clutch actuator arm in the position of the first picture, push it toward the cable (front of the bike) and ensure that it does not move upward. You will be manually moving the clutch with your hand, so it's some work, but that's how I got mine in when I experienced the same issue.

I'd be glad to hear if there is a trick to this, but I don't think there is. Just make sure it stays in the hole as you move it forward.

[East Coast Rider]

Me, too. Changing that cable is a pita...and I'm do to change mine....

[HellSickle]

Originally Posted by RandoCommando

The bike has not been taken care, has problems and has been sitting out there for how many years?

The seller should get the bike running then put a price on it.
Why won't he do that?
Maybe because he knows it needs a lot of work.
A $500 offer can easily be rejected by the seller with no harm or foul. IT'S ONLY AN OFFER.
Or he may accept the offer and be happy.
Paying a lot for a bike and then paying more to fix it will harm and foul the relationship.
If he does get the bike for a low price, has it checked out and it requires nothing, he can always give the seller more money after the fact.
But if the seller accepts the $500 offer in the first place, there was no harm or foul.
Or don't make an offer and don't buy the bike.
Simple enough.

Agreed. Paying any more for a bike that has been deferred maintenance and has been sitting outside would be a mistake. It's going to take many hours to restore the bike to reliable condition. It he can get it started and the motor sounds OK, I would go higher, but not over $1k.

[mcpenner]

I know, I know ... the KLR doohickey has been discussed to death. I've done search, read long threads, watched video, and I know where to order parts.

but

There is something I'm curious about that I haven't really come across yet, so here we go again (don't get angry, just move on if you don't like me bringing this up again).

I have seen very little about what actually causes the doo to break. I know it is a weak part and poor design and all that. I know the replacement parts are strong enough to hold up. It seems to me that the most likely cause of breakage in the balancer chain assembly would be when the wheel leaves the ground, speeds up and then makes contact again, or when the wheel is spinning and then suddenly contacts good traction sending shock back up through the whole system. In these conditions the weakest part would weaken and fail. ??????

Sooo, seeing as I am new to dirt and off road and I am very careful to avoid wheel spin and or any air under my wheels. I know this will change as my skill improves over time, but until then should I really worry about the doo?

[sandalscout]

I can't comment on what causes it to break, but my bike had 14,000 miles on it, and a PO said it was used only as a commuter and had literally been driven across a field only once, never offroaded, etc, etc.

At 14k miles, I pulled it apart to do the 'doo, and the doo was in 2 pieces, and the spring was in 2 pieces.

[mcpenner]

Originally Posted by sandalscout

I can't comment on what causes it to break, but my bike had 14,000 miles on it, and a PO said it was used only as a commuter and had literally been driven across a field only once, never offroaded, etc, etc.

At 14k miles, I pulled it apart to do the 'doo, and the doo was in 2 pieces, and the spring was in 2 pieces.

Well I guess that is a good argument against my theory.

[The Stew]

Originally Posted by mcpenner

I know, I know ... the KLR doohickey has been discussed to death. I've done search, read long threads, watched video, and I know where to order parts.

but

There is something I'm curious about that I haven't really come across yet, so here we go again (don't get angry, just move on if you don't like me bringing this up again).

I have seen very little about what actually causes the doo to break. I know it is a weak part and poor design and all that. I know the replacement parts are strong enough to hold up. It seems to me that the most likely cause of breakage in the balancer chain assembly would be when the wheel leaves the ground, speeds up and then makes contact again, or when the wheel is spinning and then suddenly contacts good traction sending shock back up through the whole system. In these conditions the weakest part would weaken and fail. ??????

Sooo, seeing as I am new to dirt and off road and I am very careful to avoid wheel spin and or any air under my wheels. I know this will change as my skill improves over time, but until then should I really worry about the doo?

The weld on the doo itself is the weakest link and the powdered metal spring. Its just PURE luck weather it breaks or not!

[Tsotsie]

Originally Posted by mcpenner

I have seen very little about what actually causes the doo to break.

The original pre 08 'doo' was made out of a machined part that is on the shaft. The lobe is made seperately. The two are then welded together. The alloy of the two parts and the weld bead are different with different grains. The welded interface, due to heat, also is made brittle in that process. Some break at the weld, others break in the lobe. The result is therefore not strong and subject to fracturing or fatigue. All the 'doo' does on the eccentric shaft and idler sprocket is lock the chain tension in place.

The second issue is with the stock springs. Two isssues with these. The ends that hook were made over a sharp edge creating a kink and a weak spot and the hook end would break off. Then when they hardened/tempered the springs after being wound, some were over hardened - the result being fatigue breaks in the coil.

So, some had the 'doo' break, others have had the spring break.

To overcome these issues, EMike machines the 'doo' out of solid SS so there is no welding. The springs he has made do not have the kinks and the tempering is more strictly controlled.

[XpressCS]

Originally Posted by East Coast Rider

Funny...I have NEVER used motorcycle oil in my motorcycles. Never a clutch issue, whether the clutch pack was new or had 50K on the plates. Mobil Delvac 15w40 and Mobil1 15w50 auto oils. Even conventional Castrol 20w50 automotive oil a couple changes when I couldn't get the other two.

40K on the stock clutch and it's doing just fine without ever having MC specific in the crankcase.

I suppose it's hit or miss, but the theory behind it is sound. Modern automotive oils have a LOT of lubricants in it that can potentially eat up the clutch and make the material slippery.

[Aprilia]

Originally Posted by mcpenner

I know, I know ... the KLR doohickey has been discussed to death. I've done search, read long threads, watched video, and I know where to order parts.

but

There is something I'm curious about that I haven't really come across yet, so here we go again (don't get angry, just move on if you don't like me bringing this up again).

I have seen very little about what actually causes the doo to break. I know it is a weak part and poor design and all that. I know the replacement parts are strong enough to hold up. It seems to me that the most likely cause of breakage in the balancer chain assembly would be when the wheel leaves the ground, speeds up and then makes contact again, or when the wheel is spinning and then suddenly contacts good traction sending shock back up through the whole system. In these conditions the weakest part would weaken and fail. ??????

Sooo, seeing as I am new to dirt and off road and I am very careful to avoid wheel spin and or any air under my wheels. I know this will change as my skill improves over time, but until then should I really worry about the doo?

Poor design and very poor welding for the OEM Doo. In your rear hub you have dampeners that reduce the shock loads to the drive train and in particular to the transmission. Keep them replaced when they wear out (too much slack) and you can spin/slide and wring all 34hp from your KLR without worry.

[CA Stu]

Originally Posted by mcpenner

I have seen very little about what actually causes the doo to break. I know it is a weak part and poor design and all that. I know the replacement parts are strong enough to hold up. It seems to me that the most likely cause of breakage in the balancer chain assembly would be when the wheel leaves the ground, speeds up and then makes contact again, or when the wheel is spinning and then suddenly contacts good traction sending shock back up through the whole system. In these conditions the weakest part would weaken and fail. ??????

Sooo, seeing as I am new to dirt and off road and I am very careful to avoid wheel spin and or any air under my wheels. I know this will change as my skill improves over time, but until then should I really worry about the doo?

Overthinking it, amigo.

The main thing that causes the part to fail is ham-fisted mechanics.

The second thing is the weakness of the part.

If you're the kind of person that waits until something breaks to replace it, it could get expensive... It's a very simple preventive maintenance job, why not just do it and be done with it?

[wayne_l]

on 2 of the 3 bikes ive replaced the doohickey on had not been due to it breaking but spring broke in 2 . the other had no tension whats so ever just sitting totally loose . The bracket was little scared but not broken .

my 01 had 33500 miles my 2012 had 2000 both springs were broke . the one totally loose doing nothing was a 91 with 45000 miles ..

[mcpenner]

OK, I think I get the idea already. The doohickey and/or spring can and will break for no apparent reason other then bad design and build quality. I only asked because I have very limited funds for this bike right now and need to be careful how I priorities my farkeling.

[jonyfi]

I just got the bike back together and took it out for a ride. It's backfiring on deceleration

Can I turn the pilot mixture screw one way or the other to cease this symptom?

I put the new mixture screw in and adjusted it as the kawi repair manual spec'd
Everything with the carb is stock, air box stock, aftermarket pipe...