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Old 12-18-2012, 07:13 PM   #4561
Kent Glasscock
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Location: Nampa, ID
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Water in the Air Box and Carb

Hey guys, My 2012 has 4000 miles on it and I just tested it a month ago through some off roading. I'm very much a novice at this but I'm learning. Anyway, I made it through a deep water crossing (it was awesome). DIdn't notice until later on the highway the bike was stuttering at around 55 to 70 MPH. Figured it was the carb (hopefully not a manufacturing defect) took it to my local shop and they said there was water in the air box and carburator and they cleaned it out as well as the air box (no defects). The only thing I did before was open the carb float drain which did seem to help. I have the Clymer manual and I'm slowly figuring stuff out. I can do the float drain and possibly the air box but as of right now, getting into the carburator I'm hesitant to do. I enjoy water crossings and I'm guessing this is something I'll need to learn (love the pics of guys crossing a river with the level up to the seat). However, I was wondering if you know of some good preventative measures I can take for future water crossings? PS. I love this bike (may need to get another for backup). Thanks!
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:25 PM   #4562
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Glasscock View Post
Hey guys, My 2012 has 4000 miles on it and I just tested it a month ago through some off roading. I'm very much a novice at this but I'm learning. Anyway, I made it through a deep water crossing (it was awesome). DIdn't notice until later on the highway the bike was stuttering at around 55 to 70 MPH. Figured it was the carb (hopefully not a manufacturing defect) took it to my local shop and they said there was water in the air box and carburator and they cleaned it out as well as the air box (no defects). The only thing I did before was open the carb float drain which did seem to help. I have the Clymer manual and I'm slowly figuring stuff out. I can do the float drain and possibly the air box but as of right now, getting into the carburator I'm hesitant to do. I enjoy water crossings and I'm guessing this is something I'll need to learn (love the pics of guys crossing a river with the level up to the seat). However, I was wondering if you know of some good preventative measures I can take for future water crossings? PS. I love this bike (may need to get another for backup). Thanks!
Do the carb t mod to prevent stalling.
Watch your wheel bearings if your in the water often, especially the rear one.
The bike is easy to work on, learn to do it yourself.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:57 PM   #4563
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Do the carb t mod to prevent stalling.
Watch your wheel bearings if your in the water often, especially the rear one.
The bike is easy to work on, learn to do it yourself.
+ 1, except . . . Tee mod essential on Generation 1 (2007 and prior) bikes crossing water, because carb vent opening is about 10" above the riding surface. Generation 2 carb vent openings sit about 30" above the ground, under the seat. Tee mod not as essential on the latter-day bikes, IMHO.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:10 PM   #4564
Kawidad
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Location: Central Coast, Cal
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Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
Not really. California has very good laws about the fuel tanks and whatnot gas stations have to use. Usually eastern states have a higher concentration of moisture than we do. We're lucky...
My comments had nothing to do with storage methods. It was blendings.

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Old 12-19-2012, 05:30 AM   #4565
Danger4u2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
I'm not sure, but it seems like it should have that protrusion to properly seal the enrichener passage.
My thought also. With no increase in idle rpm I'm thinking no increase in enrichment gas. I want to eliminate any out in the field problems that may occur. With the exception of my street bike all my bikes have the chock at the carb. I'm used to reaching for the carb. Makes carb. service easy, don't have to worry about breaking the cable entry at the carb. One less cable under the tank.................
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:50 AM   #4566
IDRIDR
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger4u2 View Post
My thought also. With no increase in idle rpm I'm thinking no increase in enrichment gas. I want to eliminate any out in the field problems that may occur. With the exception of my street bike all my bikes have the chock at the carb. I'm used to reaching for the carb. Makes carb. service easy, don't have to worry about breaking the cable entry at the carb. One less cable under the tank.................
I'm kind of intrigued by this. I have a KLX250 also and plan on changing the carb out to TM36-68 pumper soon, so would have a choke plunger available to try at no additional cost. Do you check fuel mileage? That may be another indicator if the lack of protrusion is a problem. Keep us updated if you discover anything new.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:37 AM   #4567
GAS GUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
I'm kind of intrigued by this. I have a KLX250 also and plan on changing the carb out to TM36-68 pumper soon, so would have a choke plunger available to try at no additional cost. Do you check fuel mileage? That may be another indicator if the lack of protrusion is a problem. Keep us updated if you discover anything new.
Check out Stead engineering.
http://www.steadengineering.com/prod...2&categoryId=1

This piece uses the spring and piston from your stock cable.I think this is the proper set up.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:32 PM   #4568
Kent Glasscock
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Location: Nampa, ID
Oddometer: 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Glasscock View Post
Hey guys, My 2012 has 4000 miles on it and I just tested it a month ago through some off roading. I'm very much a novice at this but I'm learning. Anyway, I made it through a deep water crossing (it was awesome). DIdn't notice until later on the highway the bike was stuttering at around 55 to 70 MPH. Figured it was the carb (hopefully not a manufacturing defect) took it to my local shop and they said there was water in the air box and carburator and they cleaned it out as well as the air box (no defects). The only thing I did before was open the carb float drain which did seem to help. I have the Clymer manual and I'm slowly figuring stuff out. I can do the float drain and possibly the air box but as of right now, getting into the carburator I'm hesitant to do. I enjoy water crossings and I'm guessing this is something I'll need to learn (love the pics of guys crossing a river with the level up to the seat). However, I was wondering if you know of some good preventative measures I can take for future water crossings? PS. I love this bike (may need to get another for backup). Thanks!
Okay. Got the bike back this evening. Still doing the studder. The shop had photos where there was water in the air box and carb. So that was diagnosed and cleaned out. But basically between 45 to 65 it just stats to stutter for a few seconds and then clears out. It was doing it on the 25 mile ride back home. I'm taking it to the beach this weekend so I'll just deal with it. I'm now guessing valve clearance or jetting, maybe a choke thing? I ride it every day to work. This is really starting to piss me off. Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:24 PM   #4569
newcastleadam
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Gotta have some sand or debris in the carb jets, also double check the choke fitting is on correctly.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:14 PM   #4570
XpressCS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
My comments had nothing to do with storage methods. It was blendings.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
BUT... Think about when all of that gas is dumped into the storage tanks... It is now "blended" again ;)
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Old 12-20-2012, 06:31 AM   #4571
Kawidad
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Location: Central Coast, Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Check out Stead engineering.
http://www.steadengineering.com/prod...2&categoryId=1

This piece uses the spring and piston from your stock cable.I think this is the proper set up.
That might be a better way to go with the IMS tank. The KLX choke knob is really hard to get to with the IMS tank, but easy with the stock tank. However, even though the KLX knob is missing the little nipple on the end, it works fine with no change in how the bike runs versus the stock choke set up.
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Old 12-20-2012, 07:04 AM   #4572
XDragRacer
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No advocacy, just one approach to simplifying the "choke" situation; Drag Specialties cable; stem shortened, threaded and re-knobbed for KLR service; stock enrichment plunger and spring attached:



Cable friction adjustable.

Made for Harley CV40 application; fits seamlessly with KLR CVK40.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:33 PM   #4573
KamikazeKLR
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Hello everyone - I don't post on this thread very often but I need some help with paint.
last summer I painted my ugly green KLR red with Krylon Fusion plastics paint. It came out horribly so I am thinking about using Plastidip. Any tips or tricks? Anybody have experience painting bikes?

Let me know!
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:16 PM   #4574
astrolump
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Location: S flatlandia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kent Glasscock View Post
Okay. Got the bike back this evening. Still doing the studder. The shop had photos where there was water in the air box and carb. So that was diagnosed and cleaned out. But basically between 45 to 65 it just stats to stutter for a few seconds and then clears out. It was doing it on the 25 mile ride back home. I'm taking it to the beach this weekend so I'll just deal with it. I'm now guessing valve clearance or jetting, maybe a choke thing? I ride it every day to work. This is really starting to piss me off. Thanks.
I had a similar problem this summer with my 01 klr.........all signs pointed to the carb but it turned out to be a failing voltage regulator. it was overheating and shutting down at higher speeds causing bad missing. once i replaced it the problem went away and i saw a rather dramatic increase in performance than i was feeling before. i guess it was going bad for some time.

another time i had a similar problem and it turned out to be a small flying insect in the float bowl..it would plug the main jet from time to time.
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:23 PM   #4575
astrolump
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Location: S flatlandia
Oddometer: 612
Quote:
Originally Posted by KamikazeKLR View Post
Hello everyone - I don't post on this thread very often but I need some help with paint.
last summer I painted my ugly green KLR red with Krylon Fusion plastics paint. It came out horribly so I am thinking about using Plastidip. Any tips or tricks? Anybody have experience painting bikes?

Let me know!
i would recommend duplicolor truck armor water based spray on truck bed liner.

once you figure out the right distance to spray it from it creates a beautiful shark skin texture and is very durable.
last weekend i painted my entire f150 super crew with it and it looks absolutely amazing. like a $5k pro murder job. every time i come out of a shop there are people petting the truck and waiting to ask where i got it painted. there is some trial and error and basic prep involved so YMMV. but it is $11 a can and you could probabably do a klr in 2-3 cans. shake the hell out of it and shake it every 30 seconds or so while spraying....buy a can and practice and it will look the bomb. many light coats are the secret...let it build over time not a few thick coats...it will run.
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HEY. did you see something fall off my bike? I mean other than me.

"They see me coming on my KLR......They hide their daughters and their PBR......
I'll take the beer,no time for girls......Got a date in the Forest, chasing squirrels. "
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