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Old 01-25-2013, 06:33 PM   #4891
ParaMud
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Orange, CA
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What tire tubes do you guys use and what size front and rear?
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:10 PM   #4892
ThomasVolomitz
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: NE Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANutt View Post
Nice setup. Is that an aftermarket tank, or just my bad eyes?
What did you have to do to mount the different cases to the racks? I've seen those on Ebay, but haven't seen anyone use them yet.
Great looking KLR!


Thanks. Stock tank minus graphics. The Dirt Racks are versatile. They include .T handle bolts that go into threaded holes in the racks. Since the gray bags are designed for KTM 950/990 ADV's, just had to drill a couple holes and get some aluminum spacers to make them fit , not too difficult. The plastic green ammo boxes just needed two holes popped in each then mounted right up.
The KLR seems to be more setup for adventure riding right out of the crate than the V Strom or Tiger XC I have had. I appreciate the simplicity of the bike, the larger gas tank and the big tail rack.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:19 PM   #4893
DesertDuster
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Kingman, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParaMud View Post
What tire tubes do you guys use and what size front and rear?
Heavy duty IRC or Kenda are good tubes.

Front tube size is 3.00-21. or 90.90-21 OEM

Rear tube size 130.80-17 OEM or 4.50/4.75/5.10-17
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:44 AM   #4894
kdzidoc
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Location: cookeville, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRCRZR View Post
have a few of these and follow the instructions...enjoy "bonding" with your bike
Will do that for sure. Maybe even document it for future "don't know how to do this"ers.
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:42 PM   #4895
PWRCRZR
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
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Got around to checking my shock linkage (lever if you will) bearings today. The set the shock mounts to and the set the links mount to were rusted solid. It was cheaper to order an entire linkage rebuild kit through pivot works than it was to just get the two out of three sets from a Kawi parts house. The pivot works set includes all 5 bearings, 3 bushings and 6 dust seals needed to do the whole lever. List was $89 my local supplier is hooking me up with a much better deal though
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:15 PM   #4896
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRCRZR View Post
Got around to checking my shock linkage (lever if you will) bearings today. The set the shock mounts to and the set the links mount to were rusted solid. It was cheaper to order an entire linkage rebuild kit through pivot works than it was to just get the two out of three sets from a Kawi parts house. The pivot works set includes all 5 bearings, 3 bushings and 6 dust seals needed to do the whole lever. List was $89 my local supplier is hooking me up with a much better deal though
Did you pull the swingarm and long swingarm bolt off the bike ? Those almost always need attention and can be a bear to get out if it has never been serviced.

Edited-see below.
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GAS GUY screwed with this post 01-26-2013 at 02:38 PM
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:37 PM   #4897
GAS GUY
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Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Did you pull the swingarm and long swingarm bolt off the bike ? Those almost always need attention and can be a bear to get out if it has never been serviced.
I'm sorry, not the swingarm bolt, but the big one under the frame caps that goes through the suspension rocker arm.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:43 AM   #4898
PWRCRZR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
I'm sorry, not the swingarm bolt, but the big one under the frame caps that goes through the suspension rocker arm.
Yup pulled both, the suspension rocker arm as you call it is what I call the pivot lever. It was a bit of a bear to remove but everything is apart...



That is from when I first took it all apart...
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:54 AM   #4899
kdzidoc
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Got the bars on with minimal trouble

But, they didn't send step by step instructions, which sucks. Fortunately, I found a video on youtube that showed step by step.

Good bars, bad instructions. It wasn't hard, but better instructions would go a long way for customer satisfaction.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:07 AM   #4900
PWRCRZR
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Glad to here you got them on....

for me learning is what it is all about.

I am much more comfortable working with wood so most any time I am wrenching on my bikes I am scratching my head and fumbling along..but hey that's what makes it fun for me..
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:33 PM   #4901
macdoc
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Left my 2004 KLR650 with friends who were supposed to run it....that did not happen and temps run regularly to 30- 35 C in a tin building so think hot all the time ( tropical Australia ) 9 month storage - excellent dry building where they keep all their active farm gear.

so dead battery with water missing in a couple of cells - dry gas tank ( not left that way ).
Got it running with a 4x4 battery so I could drive it home with the old battery in place ( filled with water but did not charge ).

Fortunately despite no prep for a 9 month out of service - fresh gas and some juice and it fired up and ran smoothly on the 50 km ride home.

so

a) what battery given the circumstances?
either I go cheap and a battery tender this year or a GEL
if cheap - what's decent?
if GEL - what's good?

b) assuming the same conditions of storage next year. What steps to store it including gas/carburator - stabilant? or drain the tank since it seems to want to cook out.

c) is there anything I should run through now it to make sure the carb is is fine ( ran perfectly on the way home - brakes were fine, shocks smoooth - just need to lub the chain )>

TIA
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:47 AM   #4902
newcastleadam
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Location: Gainesville, Fl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoc View Post
a) what battery given the circumstances?
either I go cheap and a battery tender this year or a GEL
if cheap - what's decent?
if GEL - what's good?
I like the AGM batteries, no mess no fuss. Put it or any other battery on a tender for storage, makes your life a bit easier after you chase the nesting koalas off

Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoc View Post
b) assuming the same conditions of storage next year. What steps to store it including gas/carburator - stabilant? or drain the tank since it seems to want to cook out.
Drain the system- tank, carb, everything. May want to run some Sta-Bil or other stabilizing agent with the last fuel in the system to deal with the vestiges that don't get used. Another option may be to either pull the carb or turn it so you can get the bowl off and use carb cleaner on the jets. I'd lean heavily towards this myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoc View Post
c) is there anything I should run through now it to make sure the carb is is fine ( ran perfectly on the way home - brakes were fine, shocks smoooth - just need to lub the chain )>
If the choke works and it's not stumbling, sounds fine.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:33 AM   #4903
Kawidad
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Location: Central Coast, Cal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoc View Post
Left my 2004 KLR650 with friends who were supposed to run it....that did not happen and temps run regularly to 30- 35 C in a tin building so think hot all the time ( tropical Australia ) 9 month storage - excellent dry building where they keep all their active farm gear.

so dead battery with water missing in a couple of cells - dry gas tank ( not left that way ).
Got it running with a 4x4 battery so I could drive it home with the old battery in place ( filled with water but did not charge ).

Fortunately despite no prep for a 9 month out of service - fresh gas and some juice and it fired up and ran smoothly on the 50 km ride home.

so

a) what battery given the circumstances?
either I go cheap and a battery tender this year or a GEL
if cheap - what's decent?
if GEL - what's good?

b) assuming the same conditions of storage next year. What steps to store it including gas/carburator - stabilant? or drain the tank since it seems to want to cook out.

c) is there anything I should run through now it to make sure the carb is is fine ( ran perfectly on the way home - brakes were fine, shocks smoooth - just need to lub the chain )>

TIA
I too like the AGM batteries, however, since you are storing the bike for much of the year I'd pull the battery and store it separately in a handy refrigerator.

I also agree to draing the fuel system completely before storing in those conditions. Nothing will stop the fuel from evaporating, so just drain it.

Since the bike runs well, just run it. Fresh gas does have some cleaning properties to it.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:51 AM   #4904
IDRIDR
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Location: Boise, Idaho
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^^
RE: Storage. If rodents are a potential problem, consider closing some holes. Plug the exhaust pipe and air intake; coarse steel wool should do the job.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:47 AM   #4905
RandoCommando
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Location: Philthadelphia, Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
I too like the AGM batteries, however, since you are storing the bike for much of the year I'd pull the battery and store it separately in a handy refrigerator.

Why are you storing the battery in a refrigerator? That will surely kill it.
http://www.snopes.com/oldwives/battery.asp
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