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Old 01-29-2013, 04:56 PM   #4921
macdoc
Canuck in Cairns
 
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Jan- Apr Cairns Qld - May- Dec Southern Ontario
Oddometer: 234
thanks - will it changed at end of trip
is there a plug tool in the kit ( haven't looked )
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:16 PM   #4922
Late for the Party
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Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 15
Thanks for he help.

If your good with electrical, they sell LED do it your self parts.

If I were handier with a soldering rig, I'd try to make my own card with the LEDs wired to a pigtail. I could see that going badly, so I'll go the commercial route. The bulbs at this site are just the trick (with the flasher module of course).

Brake light strobe module
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...odule/195/845/

http://www.superbrightleds.com/[/QUOTE]
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:22 PM   #4923
Aprilia
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
I've never had a battery die on me in the summer, but there have been plenty of times where I needed a jump in the winter, or had to jump someone else in the winter.
Phx summer heat can kill a battery very quickly...much worse/faster than a cold winter.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:40 PM   #4924
stuser
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Canberra, Australia
Oddometer: 377
Burning oil

I know it's been done to death, but new thoughts are always welcome....

My 08 KLR has been going through way too much oil.

The counter sprocket seal, and maybe gear selector seal, was leaking considerably, so both of these have been replaced and there is no more leaks.

However, the bike is still using oil. On recent rides I've been told by fellow riders that they can smell the oil as they follow.

I've been given advice that the "rings on 08" are a known problem.
It has also been suggested that the valve seals contribute to the problem.

I'd love to do a 685 or 705, but that is apparently way too expensive down here in Australia - shipping kills it.

I'm still new to bikes, so would like to know if someone does the valve clearances and seals, would it be a good time to do the rings as well????

The bike only has 20,000km on it.

I bought it third hand at 17,0000km from an owner who did his own (apparently inadequate) servicing.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:27 PM   #4925
DanMac
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: phx az
Oddometer: 73
So my countershaft has been leaking. It was for a while before I did the 688 and now before I start the 688 I am taking care of everything and doing a total 'refresh' on it.

So I removed the counter sprocket and then the collar would not move. It is frozen on there right now(not literally :) )and I am struggling to get it off. I cannot spin it or anything. I have gotten the rubber seal off from around it but the metal collar is still stuck on there. I've tried a few pliers but nothing has worked yet.

Anyone have any ideas??
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:27 PM   #4926
RandoCommando
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Joined: Oct 2011
Location: Philthadelphia, Pennsylvania
Oddometer: 1,379
Rotor bolt

Ok. When I did the doohickey I used an EM spring, but not the torsion spring. I put the new rotor bolt in when I did so.
I've since ordered the torsion spring and will be putting it in before the weather breaks.
I've put less than 2000 miles on the new rotor bolt.
I need opinions as to whether I need to put a new rotor bolt in or can reuse this one.
I still have the original rotor bolt as well.
???
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:14 PM   #4927
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,641
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanMac View Post
So my countershaft has been leaking. It was for a while before I did the 688 and now before I start the 688 I am taking care of everything and doing a total 'refresh' on it.

So I removed the counter sprocket and then the collar would not move. It is frozen on there right now(not literally :) )and I am struggling to get it off. I cannot spin it or anything. I have gotten the rubber seal off from around it but the metal collar is still stuck on there. I've tried a few pliers but nothing has worked yet.

Anyone have any ideas??
Are you intent on changing the collar or o-ring with the seal? If not, (and the collar isn't visibly scored or worn) just replace the seal and leave the collar.

If you need to change the collar, see if you can get a small 90-deg allen wrench in there behind the collar and pull it out. Or a piece of wire or something...
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"This place fucking runs on beer, you buy the right person a beer, and you get a job, a blow, a place to sleep, whatever.
You're hot, cold, thirsty, hungry... beer will fix that.
Beer is a god damn miracle, and don't you forget it!"
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:16 PM   #4928
fleshpiston
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: minneapolis
Oddometer: 572
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
Ok. When I did the doohickey I used an EM spring, but not the torsion spring. I put the new rotor bolt in when I did so.
I've since ordered the torsion spring and will be putting it in before the weather breaks.
I've put less than 2000 miles on the new rotor bolt.
I need opinions as to whether I need to put a new rotor bolt in or can reuse this one.
I still have the original rotor bolt as well.
???

Get a new bolt ...... they stretch when torqued, what's the setting? 130 ft lbs ? That's a lot of stress on threads. 2000 miles or none, once it's torqued it's time for a new one.




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Old 01-29-2013, 07:18 PM   #4929
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,641
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
Ok. When I did the doohickey I used an EM spring, but not the torsion spring. I put the new rotor bolt in when I did so.
I've since ordered the torsion spring and will be putting it in before the weather breaks.
I've put less than 2000 miles on the new rotor bolt.
I need opinions as to whether I need to put a new rotor bolt in or can reuse this one.
I still have the original rotor bolt as well.
???
Opinions differ on this. Here's one:

I've re-used my rotor bolt probably five times now. My motor still runs.

Others will probably call the rotor bolt a torque-to-yield bolt, which is supposed to be used once. They might be correct.
__________________
"This place fucking runs on beer, you buy the right person a beer, and you get a job, a blow, a place to sleep, whatever.
You're hot, cold, thirsty, hungry... beer will fix that.
Beer is a god damn miracle, and don't you forget it!"
-DustyRags
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:40 PM   #4930
Aprilia
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
Ok. When I did the doohickey I used an EM spring, but not the torsion spring. I put the new rotor bolt in when I did so.
I've since ordered the torsion spring and will be putting it in before the weather breaks.
I've put less than 2000 miles on the new rotor bolt.
I need opinions as to whether I need to put a new rotor bolt in or can reuse this one.
I still have the original rotor bolt as well.
???
Ditto on the once its torqued you replace even with zero miles...
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:47 PM   #4931
Aprilia
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 631
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuser View Post
I know it's been done to death, but new thoughts are always welcome....

My 08 KLR has been going through way too much oil.

The counter sprocket seal, and maybe gear selector seal, was leaking considerably, so both of these have been replaced and there is no more leaks.

However, the bike is still using oil. On recent rides I've been told by fellow riders that they can smell the oil as they follow.

I've been given advice that the "rings on 08" are a known problem.
It has also been suggested that the valve seals contribute to the problem.

I'd love to do a 685 or 705, but that is apparently way too expensive down here in Australia - shipping kills it.

I'm still new to bikes, so would like to know if someone does the valve clearances and seals, would it be a good time to do the rings as well????

The bike only has 20,000km on it.

I bought it third hand at 17,0000km from an owner who did his own (apparently inadequate) servicing.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Thanks.
These early GenII's had issues with burning oil via the piston rings/bad bores regardless of previous apparently inadequate servicing. Valve seals and seats have not been an issue, however, an engine thats burning oil will lead to issues with your topend (valves seats/seals). Without fixing the real issue (new rings and cylinder spec'd for true and either honed or rebored) you are wasting your money going thru the head.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:06 AM   #4932
Kawidad
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 4,632
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aprilia View Post
These early GenII's had issues with burning oil via the piston rings/bad bores regardless of previous apparently inadequate servicing. Valve seals and seats have not been an issue, however, an engine thats burning oil will lead to issues with your topend (valves seats/seals). Without fixing the real issue (new rings and cylinder spec'd for true and either honed or rebored) you are wasting your money going thru the head.
What he said, and I will add to it.

When I did my top end I found that the factory Kawq valve guide seals are not the best. Some of the aftermarket ones are better, but I can't remember all of the details right now. Sorry. Also, the stock valve springs are known to be weak and should be replaced. Stock is okay, just freshen them up. As to the bore. Woessner makes mild oversize kits for these engines. They work really well and you should be able to source them down under. A competent engine builder should be able to do it all for you without spending too much.
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Old 01-30-2013, 08:24 AM   #4933
redog1
KLR650-2009
 
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Magalia, CA./ Butte & Siskiyou C.
Oddometer: 1,791
I have to concur with this...

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Opinions differ on this. Here's one:

I've re-used my rotor bolt probably five times now. My motor still runs.

Others will probably call the rotor bolt a torque-to-yield bolt, which is supposed to be used once. They might be correct.
I reused mine and haven't had a problem, that was 20,000 miles ago.
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:08 AM   #4934
DanMac
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: phx az
Oddometer: 73
?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
Are you intent on changing the collar or o-ring with the seal? If not, (and the collar isn't visibly scored or worn) just replace the seal and leave the collar.

If you need to change the collar, see if you can get a small 90-deg allen wrench in there behind the collar and pull it out. Or a piece of wire or something...
My understanding is that the o-ring in there is usually the problem? Is the leak coming from the rubber seal around the countershaft? If so I will just replace that single part and see how it works..

Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2013, 10:46 AM   #4935
IDRIDR
Take me to the River
 
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Boise, Idaho
Oddometer: 1,339
Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoc View Post
thanks - will it changed at end of trip
is there a plug tool in the kit ( haven't looked )
My tool kit has a spark plug tool. Suggest removing the spark plug wire and blowing down there with some compressed air first. That plug well fills with dirt and debris that you don't want falling into the cylinder.
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