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Old 03-01-2013, 08:17 AM   #5341
East Coast Rider
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Stuck somewhere in motorcycle Purgatory
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Cool. Gonna be running lots of potentially deep gravel along the Trans Taiga road. Need something that is gonna last about 4500 miles total.
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:56 AM   #5342
Grinnin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GO_OUTSIDE! View Post
and i need a new gas tank? . . .

So what your saying is the battery is at full charge when I leave the house but the charging system is not keeping up with demand and the battery is slowly loosing charge thus the voltage is dropping. So I need to look into what happened to my charging system that reduced its capacity to charge? This weekend Ill start the bike and measure current output from the rectifier vs total current consumption.
You need a new gas tank AND gas without ethanol.

You can measure the resistance on the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator to almost-conclusively show if you have a short or a break. You ought to be able to test for bad diodes in the Rec/Reg, but I haven't had to test a combined unit, only separate rectifiers.

If you have a spare shunt and analog A meter laying around, you can measure the battery current out and current in for a real-world test.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:02 PM   #5343
Barney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post


What's the front fender you have Xpress?
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:16 PM   #5344
Rode2Nowhere
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Stillwater (next to Saratoga), NY
Oddometer: 2,140
Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post

... and how 'bout a shot of your aux lights while you're at it. Where they're mounted, etc.
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Old 03-01-2013, 04:36 PM   #5345
L-ucky-S-ix
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I have been posting random things for quite some time, so here is another!

After researching parts fiche's online I came to the conclusion that the sub-frame (subframe for search purposes) from a 2011 KLR would fit my 1990 Tengai.
So I bought one. Cheap.




Everything bolted up just fine except for the mounts for the muffler. The muffler isn't clamped down so it's hanging low, this doesn't show that it's way off and not close to the mounting holes just that it's hanging.




Apparently, the bolts for the 2011 are much nicer. This is something I didn't know they changed. Color me dumb for not knowing about the stronger bolts but I used the old ones for now. That is until I can upgrade.




I did this so I could get a pannier rack without having to modify it. The Tengai's passenger foot pegs are not connected to the subframe and normal rack systems attach to the passenger foot peg mounts on normal KLR's. (Also, it's nice to know the condition of my subframe is 21 years newer.)

Tengai foot peg mount... (Not my Tengai)


And a normal klr foot peg mount... (Not my KLR)

L-ucky-S-ix screwed with this post 03-01-2013 at 04:42 PM
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:53 PM   #5346
XpressCS
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Joined: May 2012
Location: The big box California
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As a PSA to all of my KLR friends:

HID lamps are too fragile to function properly. The electrode in the tip of them breaks from the vibrations coming from normal riding. I've gone through 3 bulbs in the past 2 months, so going back down to a Sylvania bulb. Having to ride home with your blindingly bright LED spotlamps not only annoys every driver on the road, but it doesn't spread wide enough.

Will eventually upgrade to a TruckLite HID lamp, if it will fit. Or some other type of HID lamp, anything to avoid Halogen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barney View Post
What's the front fender you have Xpress?
Acerbis Black for a 2006 KX450F:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...50F-Parts.aspx

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rode2Nowhere View Post
... and how 'bout a shot of your aux lights while you're at it. Where they're mounted, etc.






Hacked up the fairing a bit to fit the lights, I bolted them to the factory turn signal mounts, then just moved the turn signals back. Bolted them to the fender. I figured they don't need such a heavy duty mount.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:58 PM   #5347
XDragRacer
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
Will eventually upgrade to a TruckLite HID lamp, if it will fit. Or some other type of HID lamp, anything to avoid Halogen.
May not avoid the dread HALOGEN, but . . . the TPI headlight bulb for Generation 1 KLR's turns "night into day," in comparison with the OEM lighting.

From the vendor's website (Disclaimer: no financial interest):

http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/in...category_id=45 ):

Quote:
For maximum output use our TPI Heavy Duty Wiring Harness . Bulb fits up to 07 KLR and all years DR.


Now issued by Canadian government on their Yukon utility vehicles! The new heavy duty vibration resistant IPF Bulb is 80wt draw at low beam and 60wt draw at high beam. Wait, that's backwards! Read further....bulb has super white low beam that equals 190wt optical output. How many times has your low beam been too dim? Does this mean low bean will blind on coming traffic, No. Remember your low and high beams have different shapes on the road. Your high beam is 150wt optical output for long distance, much brighter than stock, but the low beam has a super white 190wt optical output low and wide on the road. Big safety factor here! Believe me, the older you get the more you need this new bulb.

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Old 03-02-2013, 04:07 AM   #5348
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
Oddometer: 1,343
Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
As a PSA to all of my KLR friends:

HID lamps are too fragile to function properly. The electrode in the tip of them breaks from the vibrations coming from normal riding. I've gone through 3 bulbs in the past 2 months, so going back down to a Sylvania bulb. Having to ride home with your blindingly bright LED spotlamps not only annoys every driver on the road, but it doesn't spread wide enough.

Will eventually upgrade to a TruckLite HID lamp, if it will fit. Or some other type of HID lamp, anything to avoid Halogen.

.
Really?

I have used an HID on an 08 for 30k without any issues. The bulb does have to be spaced if you want the correct spread.

Sylvania - false advertising scam! Read their info on the package - claim 30% more light against a normal bulb at 80%! Then, check the life expectancy - 1/3 of a standard bulb all at 3X the price! Dont be fooled by the 'color' difference.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:31 AM   #5349
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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XpressCs- what brand Hid are you using ?
Something isn't right because tons of riders are using them without problems, including my riding friends and myself.
You better look into it more, before discounting Hids.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:50 AM   #5350
mxboy96
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Location: Norfolk, NE
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All hale the thermobob!

hey hooligans. Just thought I'd give my two cents about the Thermobob mod from watt-man.com. Just got her installed last night and must say I'm quite impressed. For those of you who don't know of it, It's a cooling system modification that bumps up the running temp to the optimal internal combustion engine temp of 195 rather than 160 and warms up the bike 5x faster, thanks to the bypass hose that will go directly from the upper to lower hose, bypassing the radiator until the engine is warmed up. I only drove downtown(two blocks) and back and it was warmed up already! With the stock system I'd have to get 4 miles out of town before it would be warmed up! It also keeps the coolant temp consistant throughout rather than relying on bursts of cold coolant from the radiator to keep it cool, thus keeping a steady needle/coolant temp. They claim that this will virtually eliminate the common 'high mileage' out of round cylinder problem due to inconsistant coolant temp entering the cylinder, and increase the longivity of the engine and oil in general. As they claim, it's not really an add on so much as it is a neccesity! Ride on;)
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:57 AM   #5351
XpressCS
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Joined: May 2012
Location: The big box California
Oddometer: 914
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
Sylvania - false advertising scam! Read their info on the package - claim 30% more light against a normal bulb at 80%! Then, check the life expectancy - 1/3 of a standard bulb all at 3X the price! Dont be fooled by the 'color' difference.
I am aware, I knowingly bought the Silverstar with this info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
XpressCs- what brand Hid are you using ?
Something isn't right because tons of riders are using them without problems, including my riding friends and myself.
You better look into it more, before discounting Hids.
I used a few different brands. One was an expensive automotive kit from an unknown source (got it from a buddy for doing some favors, brand new in box), one was from DDM Tuning, and the 3rd was an eBay cheapie.

Rather not fuss with it, each bulb burnt out from the electrode breaking. And I use HID on all of my other bikes as well (2 and 4 stroke).
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2004 KLR650

My KLR is my therapy session. My quiet time. My deep tissue massage. Me without my KLR is reason enough to be deeply concerned. It is what calms me the most. Soothes my mind. Eases my stress. -Me
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:30 AM   #5352
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
Oddometer: 1,343
Quote:
Originally Posted by mxboy96 View Post
They claim that this will virtually eliminate the common 'high mileage' out of round cylinder problem due to inconsistant coolant temp entering the cylinder, and increase the longivity of the engine and oil in general. As they claim, it's not really an add on so much as it is a neccesity! Ride on;)
I am not sure who the they are? Wattman certainly does not make those claims. There are certain sites where hen-party gossip becomes tribal 'knowledge' and is then deemed as fact.

It certainly does what it is supposed too. I am a happy customer - got one the 1st made and installed it in Dec 07. 40+ K miles later it works as advertised.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:44 PM   #5353
IDRIDR
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Boise, Idaho
Oddometer: 1,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
May not avoid the dread HALOGEN, but . . . the TPI headlight bulb for Generation 1 KLR's turns "night into day," in comparison with the OEM lighting.

From the vendor's website (Disclaimer: no financial interest):
[/B]
plan to install mine this weekend. Looking forward to seeing at night!!

Sent from my C771
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:40 PM   #5354
XpressCS
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Location: The big box California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
plan to install mine this weekend. Looking forward to seeing at night!!

Sent from my C771
Let me know how it works for you. If it's as bright as it claims to be then I may just grab one.
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2004 KLR650

My KLR is my therapy session. My quiet time. My deep tissue massage. Me without my KLR is reason enough to be deeply concerned. It is what calms me the most. Soothes my mind. Eases my stress. -Me
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:35 PM   #5355
SkiBumBrian
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Joined: Jan 2012
Location: Redding, CA
Oddometer: 1,041
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
Well, Since I got the IMS tank, I was immediately unsatisfied with the less than perfect welds, molding, imperfections, etc. I liked the idea of the extra fuel and the protection it provided for the the radiator but it was UGLY!
All the info was, "Nope, can't paint an IMS tank, paint won't stick, stickers won't even stick." Wasn't sure why so I did some research. Most plastic tanks "breathe" hydrocarbons that don't allow for painting and such. OK, how about sealing the tank. Lots of sealers out there but they all say won't work with Polyethylene, Hmm. What is the IMS tank made of anyway? Yep. Polyethylene. XLPE, to be exact, cross linked polyethylene. Caswell has a nice looking 2 part epoxy sealer, oops. Won't stick to Polyethylene.
I finally came across a sealer that the manufacturer wasn't sue if it would work or not but thought it would. I found some blogs that some guys had used it and it worked great but I didn't know if their tanks were XLPE.
Long story short (too late) I ordered some and after a lengthy prep process I sloshed it around and let it cure. Seems to have dried to a flexible, strong bond, time will tell.
IMS tank is not ugly anymore! I have a bit of wet sanding the clear and some polishing to do but that is going to wait a month or so to see if she holds up.

Update on the paint. It's been a few weeks and it is pretty obvious the sealer works. It was also obvious fairly early that the Krylon paint was a bit "soft" and even though I had sanded the tank well before I painted it (Krylon says "No need for primer") it was fairly easy to mar the paint, get down to the base and actually peel the paint from the tank..... Eh, start over! I took the tank off and wondered why the paint never adhered well. After getting all the paint off the tank (and checking out the sealer on the inside.... looked fine)I realized that my scuff sanding just scuffed the gel layer or whatever they use to mold these things, did only that. Scuffed a coat of gel that has no good adhering qualities. So I took a DA sander and took that whole coating off and bought a high quality primer and hit the tank and let it cure. This primer was sticking well... So I shot it with a full coat and let it dry to a sandable state and hit it with some 800 grit, then another coat. I finally got a good bonding surface and some good primer to adhere to. Anyway, There the tank sits with 4 coats of primer on it, waiting for 48 hrs. to cure totally and I am now going to use automotive enamel instead of Krylon. I don't foresee anymore issues and I will post the new pics in a few days after the tank is back on. Hopefully anyone going this route can use my mistakes as a "don't do it like this..."
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