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Old 03-02-2013, 04:42 PM   #5356
XDragRacer
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Joined: Mar 2009
Oddometer: 2,974
Quote:
Originally Posted by IDRIDR View Post
plan to install mine [Generation 1 TPI Headlight Bulb] this weekend. Looking forward to seeing at night!!
Best wishes; the low beam generates a "box of light" that illuminates a bright rectangle where it strikes the forward riding surface, in my experience.

While you can drop the bulb only into the headlight housing, I used the dual relay harness.

If you use the relay harness, MAKE SURE you have a solid, low-resistance ground connection at the headlight bulb socket.

Either way, with bulb alone or with relay harness, let us know how it compares with the stock lighting.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:27 PM   #5357
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Best wishes; the low beam generates a "box of light" that illuminates a bright rectangle where it strikes the forward riding surface, in my experience.

While you can drop the bulb only into the headlight housing, I used the dual relay harness.

If you use the relay harness, MAKE SURE you have a solid, low-resistance ground connection at the headlight bulb socket.

Either way, with bulb alone or with relay harness, let us know how it compares with the stock lighting.
I ran a high watt (80 IIRC) bulb years ago from arrowhead on a 2003 and was impressed with the light output but on a long cold night ride across Michigan with the high beam on I had to keep turning my heated jacket on and off to keep my voltmeter reading in the happy zone.
The jacket was on full blast because I did not have a adjustable controller at the time but that was all I was running because I did not have heated grips.
I figure a 35 HID frees up alot of wattage.Then again if you dont need heated gear it is a non issue.Just sharing my experiences.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:06 PM   #5358
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
I ran a high watt (80 IIRC) bulb years ago from arrowhead on a 2003 and was impressed with the light output but on a long cold night ride across Michigan with the high beam on I had to keep turning my heated jacket on and off to keep my voltmeter reading in the happy zone.
I hear you, GAS GUY! The trick TPI bulb pulls more wattage than the OEM product, and . . . leaves little margin, 'specially for a Generation 1 stator to run auxiliary loads.

Some "power management" would be necessary in the situation you described, 'specially without an electronically variable controller.

Without heated gear, the stock electrical power generation and storage system kept up with the trick bulb. When I added heated clothing, both gloves and jacket liner: I exercised the NUCLEAR OPTION; installed a Race Tech 280-watt stator!
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:04 PM   #5359
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
I hear you, GAS GUY! The trick TPI bulb pulls more wattage than the OEM product, and . . . leaves little margin, 'specially for a Generation 1 stator to run auxiliary loads.

Some "power management" would be necessary in the situation you described, 'specially without an electronically variable controller.

Without heated gear, the stock electrical power generation and storage system kept up with the trick bulb. When I added heated clothing, both gloves and jacket liner: I exercised the NUCLEAR OPTION; installed a Race Tech 280-watt stator!
Speaking of the Racetech stator, that is a product I am interested in and am trying to gather as much feedback as possible about reliability.
If it proves out I would install one for sure.
How do you feel about them ? How many miles do you have on one ??
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Old 03-03-2013, 08:32 AM   #5360
XpressCS
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I've ditched nearly all of my factory running and turn signal lamps. Have the front 2 left to go, then I'm nearly all LED, aside from the headlamp and dash lamps.

I calculate close to 10 amps of current that can be removed from the bike (running/brake, license plate, turn signals, dash), that I'm going to dump back into the headlight.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:17 AM   #5361
IDRIDR
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Joined: Jun 2010
Location: Boise, Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
I hear you, GAS GUY! The trick TPI bulb pulls more wattage than the OEM product, and . . . leaves little margin, 'specially for a Generation 1 stator to run auxiliary loads.

Some "power management" would be necessary in the situation you described, 'specially without an electronically variable controller.

Without heated gear, the stock electrical power generation and storage system kept up with the trick bulb. When I added heated clothing, both gloves and jacket liner: I exercised the NUCLEAR OPTION; installed a Race Tech 280-watt stator!
I don't run any heated gear now and will probably go Nuke if I get to that point. Installing a voltmeter in the dash to watch status.
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Old 03-03-2013, 09:17 AM   #5362
GAS GUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
I've ditched nearly all of my factory running and turn signal lamps. Have the front 2 left to go, then I'm nearly all LED, aside from the headlamp and dash lamps.

I calculate close to 10 amps of current that can be removed from the bike (running/brake, license plate, turn signals, dash), that I'm going to dump back into the headlight.
10 amps is really optimistic.
I think you are closer to 5 amps, and in reality you should not really even count the turn signals because they are not being used running down the road, so it is hard to save more than about 3 usable amps .
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:58 AM   #5363
BERZERKOWITZ
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Quick question guys. I've been noticing that my KLR has been cranking progressively slower over the past few weeks. I tested the battery while running and am getting 14.5 volts at idle. The voltage does not change when the throttle is raised. I checked the rectifier and it seems to be ok. The battery is sealed and is only two years old, and I am not running any hi-power auxiliary items. I have been doing a lot of rain riding lately if that could cause a potential problem. Any ideas?
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:05 AM   #5364
nvklr
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Location: Carson City
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battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by BERZERKOWITZ View Post
Quick question guys. I've been noticing that my KLR has been cranking progressively slower over the past few weeks. I tested the battery while running and am getting 14.5 volts at idle. The voltage does not change when the throttle is raised. I checked the rectifier and it seems to be ok. The battery is sealed and is only two years old, and I am not running any hi-power auxiliary items. I have been doing a lot of rain riding lately if that could cause a potential problem. Any ideas?
Clean the battery terminals.
If they are clean/doesn't help, remove battery and have it tested, then go from there.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:50 AM   #5365
ausfahrt
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Location: Fl & Vt
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Front end tune up

In my family budget hierarchy, the KLR is at or near the bottom of the pecking order. I am lucky if I can put twenty bucks a week into the envelope that resides in my nightstand marked "KLR Farkles". So it's been a few months since I have done anything other than ride it...and I haven't been able to do much of that either.

But finally the envelope thickened to the point that I could order some "stuff". Since I stand 5'-17" tall and tip the scales at exactly 250 pounds (before breakfast) I want to stiffen the front fork springs. I also long for a front fork brace and since I was due for a new front tire I thought it would be a great time to tune up the front end of my KLR.

First up, I bought the stiffest front springs available from Terry at Racetech. He has a discount available to ADV'ers on the vendor page.


They even came with stickers and I love stickers!

Next I ordered the fork brace from RSW Racing.


Another sticker. Score.

So I put the bike up on it's centerstand. (thanks astrolump)


I never did like the Dunlop that was on there when I bought the bike.


I spooned the new Shinko 705 on.


The longer Racetech springs shown for comparison to the stockers.


I cut the supplied pvc sleeves to accommodate the longer springs.


The finished product. I just took a quick ride around the block so I can't really comment yet on if the handling has improved. I also had a camera malfunction so I hope to add a closeup of the fork brace soon.

All in all, a fun Sunday afternoon project.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:12 PM   #5366
SkiBumBrian
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Awesome! I always love performance mods....
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:15 PM   #5367
Murphy Slaw
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Awesome! I always love performance mods....
Yep.

Nice one.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:54 PM   #5368
KustomizingKid
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Just got the bike out for spring and am battling some carb issues... Hope I got it resolved now.
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Old 03-03-2013, 12:56 PM   #5369
desertmedic
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New ADV rider

Greetings,

After much research I decided to trade in my Victory Vegas for an adventure bike. I chose a 2013 KLR 650 in yellow :)
My back ground is desert racing so I was bound to get rid of the Victory at some point to get back to the dirt. I have riden my KLR 100 miles now and i love it, though i have bottomed the rear shock out a few too many times (I'm 240 6'1). Hope to begin the modifications or as It's put here to farkle and plan some trips, my goal is to ride to alaska next year.
Thank you guys for all the great info on this site.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:05 PM   #5370
SkiBumBrian
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Location: Redding, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KustomizingKid View Post
Just got the bike out for spring and am battling some carb issues... Hope I got it resolved now.
Run some seafoam through it to chase out some of that winter varnish...
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