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Old 03-04-2013, 01:12 PM   #5401
bomber60015
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Location: Chicago-ish
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Thankee, Flesh -- perfectly clear!

I appreciate the backup greatly!
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:51 PM   #5402
schaffer40
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Rowland Heights Ca.
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@sub5pac3
The 2nd picture is how it goes together. I was way over thinking it. It just did not look right to me at the time, or now honestly.
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:59 PM   #5403
Aprilia
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by GO_OUTSIDE! View Post
In the interim looking at your voltage while the bike is cranking (before it starts) will give you some idea. If your voltage stays above 11 volts at the battery and you still have slow cranking I would look further down the line.
Thats a good test however many digital meter's won't react fast enough. Good ole analog works very well! Also, I've found the KLR starter will actually pull total voltage down closer to low 10vdc even with a good battery. A backyard mechanic load test would be to simply leave your key on for 3-4 min then test voltage. Depending on battery chemistry/type (Wet, Gel, LiFePo) acceptable voltages will vary but its pretty easy to determine the overall state of the battery as well. Example: A 50% discharge would be 12.1 for wet cell and 12.5 for maint free types.
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Old 03-04-2013, 09:59 PM   #5404
DesertDuster
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Kingman, AZ
Oddometer: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by desertmedic View Post
Greetings,

After much research I decided to trade in my Victory Vegas for an adventure bike. I chose a 2013 KLR 650 in yellow :)
My back ground is desert racing so I was bound to get rid of the Victory at some point to get back to the dirt. I have riden my KLR 100 miles now and i love it, though i have bottomed the rear shock out a few too many times (I'm 240 6'1). Hope to begin the modifications or as It's put here to farkle and plan some trips, my goal is to ride to alaska next year.
Thank you guys for all the great info on this site.
A couple of things to do that are free:
Check the preload and rebound. The preload adjustment is a 12mm bolt near the top on the left side of the shock. It may be behind a small black vacuum canister. The factory adjustment is set on one which is for a 160 pound rider. Set it at around three or four for starters. Any heavier load, adjust it up a notch. The bolt only turns clockwise and after reaching position five it will pop and go back to position one. The rebound is a small screw on the bottom of the shock on the right side. It should be set at ½ turn counter-clockwise. The more clockwise the screw is turn the quicker the rebound, which will keep the rear shock ready for the next bump.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:06 PM   #5405
XpressCS
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Joined: May 2012
Location: The big box California
Oddometer: 1,157
I would up putting the Sylvania bulb back into my KLR today. Hooked it up to low beam this time, rather than high beam. Noticed the cutoff is sharp like I like it, and there is an even distribution of light in the playing field. So maybe the light isn't all that bad from this bulb.

Will have to adventure into hooking up the high beam as well to get even more light output
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:01 PM   #5406
Danger4u2
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: OKC
Oddometer: 609
I noticed I had a little more vibration than the normal buzz. I never changed my doo and thought maybe the vibes could be doo related. The bad part of this is, I bought a doo from Eagle Mike back in 2007 and never stopped riding to install it.
As for the buzz, I could put my foot on the Happy Trails forward foot peg and some of the buzz would go away. Put the bike up on the lift and found this. Part of the mystery solved.



I decided to make my own flywheel wrench, picked up an old school, 1¼" Proto open/box end wrench at Mary's Swap Meet for $5 bucks.



Now as far as which way to bend the wrench for holding the flywheel it doesn't matter unless you plan on using the wrench for something else, other than just a KLR flywheel wrench. Bend it with the off set of the box end and the open end will be up like this. If you bend it the other way the box end won't sit flat around the head of a bolt.



I greased up the Eagle Mike flywheel puller.



Turned to set the tub of grease on the table behind me and heard a pop. I didn't need the puller, turned around to find this.
The wrench held it from hitting the floor.



Removed the flywheel and ...........................



Now I'm on a fishing trip.



I poked and poked with the 2 magnets, no luck finding the chunk of doo. Nothing on the drain bolt magnet. I'll give it another try in the morning. No telling how long it's been like this. I'm at 23,851 miles. 2007 bike. First time I've opened up a KLR engine.

1. If I don't find it should I button it up and hope for the best?
2. Should I pull the clutch side case and check that little screen?
3. With the clutch side off, is there access to the sump with my fishing magnets?
4. The broken part has a little bit of weight to it, is there enough oil flow to lift it into the screen?
I would be very appreciative of any suggestions.
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Old 03-05-2013, 03:54 AM   #5407
GAS GUY
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Garden City, Michigan
Oddometer: 3,178
Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertDuster View Post
A couple of things to do that are free:
Check the preload and rebound. The preload adjustment is a 12mm bolt near the top on the left side of the shock. It may be behind a small black vacuum canister. The factory adjustment is set on one which is for a 160 pound rider. Set it at around three or four for starters. Any heavier load, adjust it up a notch. The bolt only turns clockwise and after reaching position five it will pop and go back to position one. The rebound is a small screw on the bottom of the shock on the right side. It should be set at ½ turn counter-clockwise. The more clockwise the screw is turn the quicker the rebound, which will keep the rear shock ready for the next bump.
Actually, the more clockwise (closed) the adjuster is turned, the harder and slower the rebound will be due to more hydraulic resistance working against the spring that is trying to return the tire from compression.
And the more counterclockwise (open) will be softer and faster due to less hydraulic resistance to the spring, to the point if you go to far open the rear end can feel like a pogo.
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:07 AM   #5408
PWRCRZR
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Oddometer: 7,481
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger4u2 View Post
I noticed I had a little more vibration than the normal buzz. I never changed my doo and thought maybe the vibes could be doo related. The bad part of this is, I bought a doo from Eagle Mike back in 2007 and never stopped riding to install it.
As for the buzz, I could put my foot on the Happy Trails forward foot peg and some of the buzz would go away. Put the bike up on the lift and found this. Part of the mystery solved.




Now I'm on a fishing trip.



I poked and poked with the 2 magnets, no luck finding the chunk of doo. Nothing on the drain bolt magnet. I'll give it another try in the morning. No telling how long it's been like this. I'm at 23,851 miles. 2007 bike. First time I've opened up a KLR engine.

1. If I don't find it should I button it up and hope for the best?
2. Should I pull the clutch side case and check that little screen?
3. With the clutch side off, is there access to the sump with my fishing magnets?
4. The broken part has a little bit of weight to it, is there enough oil flow to lift it into the screen?
I would be very appreciative of any suggestions.
Try contacting Eagle Mike directly, he walked a local friend through the procedure of where to look for the missing part. You will need a flexible magnet I am told...Good Luck
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:21 AM   #5409
Danger4u2
'04KX500isDanger4u2
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: OKC
Oddometer: 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRCRZR View Post
Try contacting Eagle Mike directly, he walked a local friend through the procedure of where to look for the missing part. You will need a flexible magnet I am told...Good Luck
Thanks, go to the experts. Duh, I should have thought of that.
Looks like a trip to Harbor Freight for a flexible magnetic fishing tool.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:27 AM   #5410
Aprilia
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Oddometer: 651
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danger4u2 View Post








WARNING The pictures above are photoshopped. Another exploitation of the internet broken Doo myth....


You'll find it. I've fished successfully 4-5 myself.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:33 AM   #5411
Unstable Rider
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Oddometer: 2,467
Hey Danger,

Great pics and verbiage you posted collectively above.

Just sayin. I am in agreement, it's a valid problem and replacement is a good idea.

My '09 really smoothed out and runs great with a new doo and the torsion spring. One of my riding chums has broke a couple of the non-torsion springs... couple of E. Mikes conventional springs too.... go torsion spring if you can people.


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Old 03-05-2013, 08:33 AM   #5412
bomber60015
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Location: Chicago-ish
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Nuther Question -- Coolant Reservoir Guard -- Necessary?

In the process of buttoning up my gen 1 KLR, and got the cooling system full, burped, full agian, re-burped . . . . . .

and it occured to me, again, that, once the IMS tank is back on the bike, there will be no way whatsoever to add coolant, if neceesary.

Is there a reason I shouldn't trim the reservoir guard to I can reach the cap without field-stripping the bike?

thanks!
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:45 AM   #5413
fleshpiston
Studly Adventurer
 
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: minneapolis
Oddometer: 579
Quote:
Originally Posted by bomber60015 View Post
In the process of buttoning up my gen 1 KLR, and got the cooling system full, burped, full agian, re-burped . . . . . .

and it occured to me, again, that, once the IMS tank is back on the bike, there will be no way whatsoever to add coolant, if neceesary.

Is there a reason I shouldn't trim the reservoir guard to I can reach the cap without field-stripping the bike?

thanks!


Just 2 bolts and the plastic "guard" comes right off


.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:12 AM   #5414
bomber60015
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Chicago-ish
Oddometer: 10,607
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleshpiston View Post
Just 2 bolts and the plastic "guard" comes right off


.
Very true -- they are extremly tough to reach, with the IMS tank . . . .
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"Here is your country. Cherish these natural wonders, cherish the natural resources, cherish the history and romance as a sacred heritage, for your children and your children's children. Do not let selfish men or greedy interests skin your country of its beauty, its riches or its romance.” T.R.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:20 AM   #5415
Brunssd
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: At the end of Westside Road
Oddometer: 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by desertmedic View Post
Greetings,

After much research I decided to trade in my Victory Vegas for an adventure bike. I chose a 2013 KLR 650 in yellow :)
My back ground is desert racing so I was bound to get rid of the Victory at some point to get back to the dirt. I have riden my KLR 100 miles now and i love it, though i have bottomed the rear shock out a few too many times (I'm 240 6'1). Hope to begin the modifications or as It's put here to farkle and plan some trips, my goal is to ride to alaska next year.
Thank you guys for all the great info on this site.
I don't know if you've sorted this yet but the best modification (handling-wise) that I made to my KLR is a new rear spring from TopGun. Better than Progressive fork springs, better than a fork brace, better than a low mudguard. I used the white one, YMMV.
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