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Old 04-17-2013, 03:01 AM   #5926
Grinnin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaIsCold View Post
I notice that when I'm waiting at a long stop light my temp gauge starts to creep up, after waiting for about five minutes at a rather crowded intersection it gets to be about 2/3rds maxed.
. . .
Any advice?
KLRs have a radiator cap that releases pressure at 13 to 18 psi. There are a couple of suppliers of higher-pressure radiator caps, in the neighborhood of 23 psi. ANY coolant will boil at a higher temperature with higher pressure. If your hoses and seals are in good condition this will keep the cooling system functioning when a lower-pressure system might boil, cause air pockets, and allow the cylinder or head to overheat.

Water has a higher cooling ability than any water/glycol mixture. Other anti-freeze solutions offer different cooling abilities and you may be able to read a bit and find something that cools better. I ran one water-cooled bike for a while with NPG coolant. I returned to 50/50 water and ethylene glocol (i.e. normal) coolant because the specialized stuff was not available everywhere. I never NEEDED to find some while in another state, but the prospect was always in the back of my mind. You man find that a mixture of 75% water and 25% ethylene glycol will provide better cooling ability with as much freeze protection as you'll need on a summer trip PLUS you can get it anywhere if you have to drain the system for any repair.

KLRs have a gap between the radiator and shroud that allows air to bypass the radiator. Filling this gap helps cooling when you're moving at all. MarkNet has a page here with details on one implementation but I'm sure any KLR owner can invent a different way.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:41 AM   #5927
D_A
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Coolant isn't just anti-freeze it's also anti-boil. Different water/concentrate mixtures will boil at different temperatures even at the same pressure. There's usually a sweet spot where a given product is most effective. The manufacturer usually has the relevant numbers available somewhere.
For example, at 33% Castrol radi-cool boils at 105C and freezes at -19C. At 50% it boils at 114C and freezes at -34C.
Over 70%, however can cause overheating problems, and under 33% isn't recommended either. I'm guessing that's something to do with corrosion protection, but I don't know. That's just an example, others will vary but you get the idea.
Datasheets here: http://www.tds.castrol.com.au in the Coolants section. lots of pdfs.

I had a car some years ago. Cast iron block, copper radiator ... old school stuff. The previous owner thought that rain water was the purest thing he could use to fill the cooling system and that coolant was a waste of money. His opinion rotted out the heater core and scaled up the rest of the cooling system so bad it took me weeks, plus a new radiator and heater core, to get it cleaned out properly.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:53 AM   #5928
MacNoob
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:33 AM   #5929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxboy96 View Post
So you guys got the lastest edition of Cycle World and seen the Adventure Series shootout? Know who won even compared to the Super Tenere, 800XC, and KTM? The KLR 650. Go figure huh? Lol. Just thought I'd brag up the old girl a bit.

This one.
http://www.cycleworld.com/2013/03/29...-stats-photos/

KLR FTW.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:06 AM   #5930
Tsotsie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaIsCold View Post
Hiya!

I notice that when I'm waiting at a long stop light my temp gauge starts to creep up, after waiting for about five minutes at a rather crowded intersection it gets to be about 2/3rds maxed. Of course when I start driving it cools back down.

But I am wondering how this would translate over to when im going ~65 and its 120*F outside. Even worse when I'm driving out of the deep valley, putting extra strain on the engine you know?


Any advice?
That is what the cooling system is supposed to/designed to do. As long as the system is full (both the rad and burp bottle), cap retains pressure, the fan works (it should come on about 2/3 way up) and the system does not leak coolant that is mixed 50/50 ( should be changed every 2 years to retain anti-corrosion properties) , you are good to go. Enjoy the ride.

The temp is measured in the head. Slow revs, slow movement = slow air to cool and slow coolant through the system. 2/3 of the way up the guage the coolant in the head is about 220 degrees - you can ride all day at that temp. indication. Start to worry when it gets to 250+ which would be in the red zone.

The fan and temp guage are not connected. The fan is turned on when the temp at the bottom of the radiator reaches about 207, if I recall, as the coolant is exiting the system and turns off at about 197.

212-220 is the most efficient running temps - but is not practiacal and generally does not have enough of a safety factor so they are controlled lower.

You can improve the cooling. Pre 08 mod is to seal the air gap between the radiator and cowling. This forces more air to and across the radiator - when you are moving.

The T-Bob will not improve the hot air cooling or any cooling properties. All it will do is control that process better.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:15 AM   #5931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CParnell View Post
Ya we made it,KLR ruled that fancy pants group!
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:19 PM   #5932
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Buzzing around yesterday and noticed my shift leaver was cracked near the weld,gonna weld the old 1,and ordered a extended Moose shifter,thought it might go better with the Moose pegs I got a while back,any comments??
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:49 PM   #5933
GreatWhiteNorth
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Re improving cooling efficiency

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaIsCold View Post
Hiya!

I am preparing to ride from Anchorage AK, to San Diego, CA (in august) and I was wondering how I can improve my 2005 KLRs Cooling (The only thing changed on it is the sprockets). This is primarily because I am going to be passing through Death Valley and Central Nevada. I have ridden primarily just up here in Anchorage / Fairbanks. During a "hot summer" (~65-70*F) I notice that when I'm waiting at a long stop light my temp gauge starts to creep up, after waiting for about five minutes at a rather crowded intersection it gets to be about 2/3rds maxed. Of course when I start driving it cools back down.

But I am wondering how this would translate over to when im going ~65 and its 120*F outside. Even worse when I'm driving out of the deep valley, putting extra strain on the engine you know?

I've done cold weather riding, down to about 9F. thats not so bad. so I know how to protect the engine against cold, but I am worried about protecting it from heat. I have no idea how to modify my KLR to handle relatively high ambient temperatures.

Any advice?
Had the same problem last year... bought my KLR used, and noticed it was running hotter than I'd like to see it. It wouldn't go into the red, but it'd get up there if putting around the city in stop & go traffic. I read that running a 25 (glycol) / 75 (water) mix ratio would help... tried it, and was just amazed at the difference. With that said, I don't know how old the coolant was that was in there, and if it was too strong a mix ratio. Some guys use Water Wetter to good effect too.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:57 PM   #5934
Aprilia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaIsCold View Post
Hiya!

I am preparing to ride from Anchorage AK, to San Diego, CA (in august) and I was wondering how I can improve my 2005 KLRs Cooling (The only thing changed on it is the sprockets). This is primarily because I am going to be passing through Death Valley and Central Nevada. I have ridden primarily just up here in Anchorage / Fairbanks. During a "hot summer" (~65-70*F) I notice that when I'm waiting at a long stop light my temp gauge starts to creep up, after waiting for about five minutes at a rather crowded intersection it gets to be about 2/3rds maxed. Of course when I start driving it cools back down.

But I am wondering how this would translate over to when im going ~65 and its 120*F outside. Even worse when I'm driving out of the deep valley, putting extra strain on the engine you know?

I've done cold weather riding, down to about 9F. thats not so bad. so I know how to protect the engine against cold, but I am worried about protecting it from heat. I have no idea how to modify my KLR to handle relatively high ambient temperatures.

Any advice?
Your KLR seems perfectly normal. I've been a desert dweller for many years so I have much experience riding in extreme hot temps i.e. over 115F. First let me say you should be far more concerned bout keeping yourself cooled down and most importantly hydrated over concerns about your KLR.

The warmest temps I've run the KLR in was two years ago running across the Mojave with temps fluctuating around 118F. I did see briefly 120F. KLR did fine as long as speeds stayed below 80mph GPS. Any faster and temps would immediately climb to the red zone. Plus side is the KLR never puked while in the red zone and since I had nothing better to do I found that if you help scoop air with your left hand temps will immediately come down. Filling in the gap between the shroud and radiator also helps alot. Bottomline...perform normal maintenance, replace coolant with mostly water and add a bit of water wetter and don't worry about the KLR.

Now, how do you survive riding in those temps? Personally, I'd avoid riding in anything above 110F being a noob to dry desert riding. If I'm going to be in those conditions I begin hydrating 24hrs prior. I wear a one piece Aerostich and zip it up nice and tight. You can not allow air to pass over any skin. If available I'll fill the front pockets on the Stich with ice which will provide about 2hrs of cooling. Often ice is not available so you simply monitor your condition as you go. You MUST continuously be drinking water. Get yourself set up so that you can easily without stopping.

In a 5-6hr ride across the Mojave I will drink over a gallon of water and often will not have to go to the bathroom 2hrs after taking off and for a good 8hrs going forward even though I've drank all that water. Prior to taking off I'm hydrated enough (previous 24hrs) that I'm going every 20 min....

Stores, fuel and any help is few and far between. Plan on having to take care of yourself. Heat stroke is VERY serious. Do not take it lightly. I've experience mild heat stroke once and it took me out for 2 days.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:30 PM   #5935
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Is there a trick to breaking loose the seized bolts that hold the heat shield onto the exhaust pipe? I searched this thread and now am confident that I can fix them after I break them off. My first choice would be don't break 'em off.

It seems the previous owner or his mechanic to have tried once before to get them off (the shield rattles) Luckily the cheese torx bit they used was probably ruined while the screws survived with little damage. I feel like I can get enough bite with my sharp bit to twist the heads off. I'm looking for better way.
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akaDigger screwed with this post 04-17-2013 at 07:31 PM Reason: heat shield bolts stuck
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:40 PM   #5936
SkiBumBrian
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You may try some liquid wrench, etc but didn't work for me. I just twisted them til they broke and drilled them out, fuck it. Have since went to a bigger head pipe, cut the tabs off the old one and welded them on the aftermarket one, after I re tapped the holes, of course. Thanks for reminding me, I gotta go see if they still turn free..
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:03 PM   #5937
8lives
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Bolts ya

Ya mine just came off like butter,well the bolt head did,both bolts are still stuck in the pipe.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:20 PM   #5938
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Penetrating oil and an impact driver...out they come. Put never-sieze on them when replacing.


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Old 04-17-2013, 08:47 PM   #5939
RandoCommando
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggerled View Post
Is there a trick to breaking loose the seized bolts that hold the heat shield onto the exhaust pipe? I searched this thread and now am confident that I can fix them after I break them off. My first choice would be don't break 'em off.

It seems the previous owner or his mechanic to have tried once before to get them off (the shield rattles) Luckily the cheese torx bit they used was probably ruined while the screws survived with little damage. I feel like I can get enough bite with my sharp bit to twist the heads off. I'm looking for better way.
I ran my KLR until the engine and exhaust were good and hot.
Then I just carefully turned them until they came out.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:53 PM   #5940
8lives
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandoCommando View Post
I ran my KLR until the engine and exhaust were good and hot.
Then I just carefully turned them until they came out.
After mine broke I was thinking"I coulda done this better"like the way you did it,beer and whiskey are not always good shop mates for me,in the morning I see what I did.
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