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Old 04-18-2013, 12:12 AM   #5941
MtnRider2
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Yes beautiful Northern CA weather and a nice ride for me today.....until I tipped over twice!!!!! Fortunately I was in the dirt and not going too fast but still ugh. On the ride home my temp was far higher than normal. Note both drops were on the right side. Haven't torn it apart yet but any suggests as to what possibly could have happend?
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:44 AM   #5942
Grinnin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggerled View Post
Is there a trick to breaking loose the seized bolts that hold the heat shield onto the exhaust pipe?.
I use lots of time, a generous helping of PB blaster, and an impact driver (the hammer-and-driver kind). I've only taken the shields off during Maine winters though, so I have 2 or 3 days to let the BP work.

If you move on to the swingarm bolt and shock linkage it took me over 2 weeks of BP and other penetrants. It was absolutely immobile until it came out easily. I'd say take a look first time you have time -- these don't come from the factory with much grease.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:16 AM   #5943
akaDigger
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I'll do the PB Blaster / patience method. If that fails I'll do the heat up and try. At that point I'm ready to break them off.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:07 AM   #5944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
If you move on to the swingarm bolt and shock linkage it took me over 2 weeks of BP and other penetrants.
Ouch.... When I got my bike (1 year ago, it is a 2000 that had 14k miles on it), one of the very first things I did was strip it down and clean/lube all of the bearings (except the steering head, I still need to do that). The swingarm bolt on mine was a little bit difficult to get out, but it only took me about 10 minutes or so. Emery cloth to clean it up, and then a liberal coating of grease to keep it from seizing again.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:18 AM   #5945
JBradley500
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Originally Posted by Diggerled View Post
I'll do the PB Blaster / patience method. If that fails I'll do the heat up and try. At that point I'm ready to break them off.
I've had good luck by putting pb blaster, then heat immediately followed by PB blaster... it may catch fire but if you put the flame back to it it will go out. I had to do that to my GF's tie-rod end the other day and it came right out. The heat helps the PB wick into the threads i believe. The blue-wrench will get anything loose.
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:59 AM   #5946
XDragRacer
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Just a comment in praise of the IMPACT DRIVER; less than $ 10, with bits, from Harbor Freight, et al. (A JIS bit set enhances its effectiveness.)

This device (I consider essential for working on steel screws in alloy cases, and motorcycles in general) torques the fastener ONLY when the threads are relieved from a hammer blow.

The "Better Living Through Chemistry" techniques, like penetrating oils, PB Blaster, etc., are useful. Yet for the final application of force, an impact driver may be essential to remove a fastener without mangling its head.

I replaced the fasteners on my exhaust heat shield with Allen-head (hex socket) machine screws.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:19 AM   #5947
Rode2Nowhere
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Another vote for impact driver. CAN'T BELIEVE I went 10 years wrenching on old bikes before buying one. Some of the best money you can spend on the shop.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:25 AM   #5948
beemerjim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinnin View Post
I use lots of time, a generous helping of PB blaster, and an impact driver (the hammer-and-driver kind). I've only taken the shields off during Maine winters though, so I have 2 or 3 days to let the BP work.

If you move on to the swingarm bolt and shock linkage it took me over 2 weeks of BP and other penetrants. It was absolutely immobile until it came out easily. I'd say take a look first time you have time -- these don't come from the factory with much grease.


I've got the frozen swingarm bolt scenario now. I can get it to rotate, but no lateral movement. You've given me hope.


JIm
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:27 AM   #5949
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Originally Posted by beemerjim View Post
I've got the frozen swingarm bolt scenario now. I can get it to rotate, but no lateral movement.
Last time I did this I had my wife spin the bolt with my air impact wrench, while I whacked on the other end with a brass drift. It came out eventually.

edit: this made me feel queasy about the bearings, but they did not appear to suffer any harm.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:32 AM   #5950
beemerjim
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Originally Posted by MacNoob View Post
Last time I did this I had my wife spin the bolt with my air impact wrench, while I whacked on the other end with a brass drift. It came out eventually.

edit: this made me feel queasy about the bearings, but they did not appear to suffer any harm.
This gives me more hope. Once you got it started moving, did it continue to fight the rest of the way out? I don't want it to be stuck 1/2 way out.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:35 AM   #5951
Rode2Nowhere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacNoob View Post
Last time I did this I had my wife spin the bolt with my air impact wrench, while I whacked on the other end with a brass drift. It came out eventually.

edit: this made me feel queasy about the bearings, but they did not appear to suffer any harm.
Yeah, if you have a helper, or devise some sort of "press" to keep pressure on the opposite end while you spin, it seems to work better. Still difficult, but better.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:41 AM   #5952
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Originally Posted by beemerjim View Post
This gives me more hope. Once you got it started moving, did it continue to fight the rest of the way out? I don't want it to be stuck 1/2 way out.
Actually it moved a little then got stuck so I had a little back and forth movement. Was able to work it back and forth, PB blaster in the hole, spinning with air impact and while 'removing' with drift, then whack it back into 'installed' position, more PB, repeat repeat repeat...
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:42 AM   #5953
bomber60015
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mine came out fighting and scereaming the entire way . .. Kroil, my electric impact driver (spun it one way, then the other), a brass drift and a BAH (Big Assed Hammer) finalluy did the tirck.

This experience induced me to install zerks on the rear suspension linkage.
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Old 04-18-2013, 07:49 AM   #5954
Grinnin
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Once you got it started moving, did it continue to fight the rest of the way out? I don't want it to be stuck 1/2 way out.
After my first week of frustration I slowed down and hit mine with a 4Lb hammer and brass rod once every morning and once every evening then soaked it and walked away. It was not moving. Suddenly one hit it moved 2 or so inches and the next hit it landed under the workbench. There was no getting stuck partway.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:01 AM   #5955
Rode2Nowhere
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Its hilarious, the multitude of different experiences.

Bottome line: It sucks... and should be re-lubed pretty much straight from the factory. Unfortunately many of us don't buy them new.
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