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Old 04-20-2013, 06:08 AM   #6001
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBradley500 View Post
I was in the same boat as you just days ago...

Id just pull the cover. Its super easy to check. I'd recommend pulling the cover and loosening the bolt like you were "adjusting" the doohickey and see if it moves. Then use a screwdriver or something to play with your doohickey and see if you can feel/see spring action on it. Mine has an EM doo but has no tension like the spring is too long or missing. Im doing the torsion spring install once it comes in the mail.
+1.

Not too many KLR owners (and shops) really dont know what a correct doo application is unless they have personally done one. Open it up. Look to see that the spring has tension (or it has a torsion spring) and the lever is intact. That way you will know and have peace of mind. Then about every 5K miles, loosen the lever retaining bolt 3/4 turn for it to adjust and tighten it back up.
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:36 AM   #6002
Czechplease
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I think I might have posted this question up here a while back, but the "loose chain" diagnosis proved to be incorrect so....

(2011 with just over 12,500mi running Mobil 1 synthetic)

"Most" of the time when I'm upshifting...unless I pull in the clutch an obnoxiously long time before moving the shift lever, I feel a significant 'clunk' in the lever. It shifts into the next gear, but the clunk is annoying and it's got me wondering if something's gonna fail eventually.

This is present at all stages of 'immediately after' to 'needing it done' chain adjustment, so that's not it. It also does it with little-to-no slack in the clutch cable or with the cable on the 'loose' side. The bike runs fine otherwise.

Ideas?
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:39 AM   #6003
SavannahCapt
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Location: SE Georgia
Oddometer: 645
loaded KLR

Loaded for a little trip to Cedar Key early morning of April 10.

[IMG] photo GEDC2374_zpsf5ce3988.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:44 AM   #6004
8lives
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Have fun on your trip Savanna!
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:55 AM   #6005
SkiBumBrian
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Location: Redding, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechplease View Post
I think I might have posted this question up here a while back, but the "loose chain" diagnosis proved to be incorrect so....

(2011 with just over 12,500mi running Mobil 1 synthetic)

"Most" of the time when I'm upshifting...unless I pull in the clutch an obnoxiously long time before moving the shift lever, I feel a significant 'clunk' in the lever. It shifts into the next gear, but the clunk is annoying and it's got me wondering if something's gonna fail eventually.

This is present at all stages of 'immediately after' to 'needing it done' chain adjustment, so that's not it. It also does it with little-to-no slack in the clutch cable or with the cable on the 'loose' side. The bike runs fine otherwise.

Ideas?
I had shifting issues too with Mobil 1. I know it is an expensive synth but I believe it breaks down quickly in the high shear environment of the KLR. Within 1K miles I was missing shifts and hard noisy shifts. Went back to the old standby Rotella T and no problems since...
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:03 AM   #6006
8lives
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I'm with Brian on Rotella.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:35 AM   #6007
tommu56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechplease View Post
I think I might have posted this question up here a while back, but the "loose chain" diagnosis proved to be incorrect so....

(2011 with just over 12,500mi running Mobil 1 synthetic)

"Most" of the time when I'm upshifting...unless I pull in the clutch an obnoxiously long time before moving the shift lever, I feel a significant 'clunk' in the lever. It shifts into the next gear, but the clunk is annoying and it's got me wondering if something's gonna fail eventually.

This is present at all stages of 'immediately after' to 'needing it done' chain adjustment, so that's not it. It also does it with little-to-no slack in the clutch cable or with the cable on the 'loose' side. The bike runs fine otherwise.

Ideas?
2012 here too I had similar noisy shift when I tried Silkolene oil (Dealer recommended it) went back to Valvoline 4 stroke MC oil it went away after the 2nd change.

tom
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:25 PM   #6008
derm75
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Question Fork oil level question

I'm in the process of installing .54 fork springs from Sonic Springs in my 2008. In an email, Rich from Sonic told me an oil level of 175 is correct for my 08. The stock measurement is 135. Does anybody think this is too much of a difference?
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:52 PM   #6009
Tsotsie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derm75 View Post
I'm in the process of installing .54 fork springs from Sonic Springs in my 2008. In an email, Rich from Sonic told me an oil level of 175 is correct for my 08. The stock measurement is 135. Does anybody think this is too much of a difference?
Did you ask "Rich" what his reasons are for suggesting a different level?
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:04 PM   #6010
derm75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
Did you ask "Rich" what his reasons are for suggesting a different level?
Yeah, waiting to hear back from him.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:40 PM   #6011
Wansfel
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Location: Bitterroot Valley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derm75 View Post
Yeah, waiting to hear back from him.
I see on Sonic's web site tech notes that speak to oil level. Actually, I think it should be called "air level". The less air volume, the greater progressive action of the air volume. Sonic doesn't believe in "progressive" springs, inlcuding the action of the air volume according to one of their tech notes. This may be fine for street bikes which is their forte.

Long travel suspension like in dirt bikes however are a different animal. Consider the 175 to 135 range a "tuning range" and see what works for you, the way you ride, where you ride, and the load you carry.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:59 PM   #6012
mach1charlie
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Forks on my 06 use that oil level with progressive springs. As I recall 3.25 spacers on springs oil level 185 t0 175 mm from top. Set up works good for a fat man.
Also all fork oils are not rated the same...I used Montul 15 wt. cuse it was cheapest...Hey I ride a KLR.

mach1charlie screwed with this post 04-20-2013 at 05:07 PM
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:23 PM   #6013
Czechplease
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I shoulda mentioned the problem's been there with Rotella and Torco non-synth as well.
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:35 PM   #6014
8lives
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechplease View Post
I shoulda mentioned the problem's been there with Rotella and Torco non-synth as well.
Well may not be oil,do you have a stethoscope,dang!keep looking and checking in here as someone will have had these symptoms before.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:15 PM   #6015
just jeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodmuzwa View Post
The only issues I have with the full and drill method is I am likely to f#ck it up. My thinking is I'd be more likely to succeed with a US slide. Harley's are very pricey here but I'll get a price anyway before ordering. Thanks for all your help guys!
When I needed a carb slide I bought it from HD. The Kawi slide was $124, the HD slide was $63 In Edmonton Alberta Canada. I have seen them on EBay For $30 in the USA. Check it out!
Regards....just jeff
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