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Old 05-12-2013, 04:34 PM   #6511
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
I beg to differ. Just the statement "my bike runs great" does not mean there is not issues that a leak down won't show. He whole premise is he doesn't want to spend without knowing what the issue is, a leak down is virtually free and if it shows no issues at least he has a starting point.
No doubt the leakdown is a great test, but if I read his post right his only concern was excessive oil consumption and the leakdown test is generally not used for oil consumption diagnosis.
He stated he burns lots of oil at high rpm riding which we know is an indication of oil control rings or piston to cylinder wall clearance, which a leakdown test won't show if the 2 compression rings above the oil control rings are doing their job.
If the valve seals or guides are worn they usually leak more at start up or stop and go riding.
Btw- I'm not trying to be difficult on this subject, just friendly discussion.
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:59 PM   #6512
slowoldguy
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Ok. Do I gather from this discussion that the only accurate "test" is to pull it apart and take it to someone who knows what they are looking for/at? And yeah. It doesn't even smoke at idle or light throttle.
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:12 PM   #6513
sdd04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
No doubt the leakdown is a great test, but if I read his post right his only concern was excessive oil consumption and the leakdown test is generally not used for oil consumption diagnosis.
He stated he burns lots of oil at high rpm riding which we know is an indication of oil control rings or piston to cylinder wall clearance, which a leakdown test won't show if the 2 compression rings above the oil control rings are doing their job.
If the valve seals or guides are worn they usually leak more at start up or stop and go riding.
Btw- I'm not trying to be difficult on this subject, just friendly discussion.
I have used leak down tests for decades with race motors to determine their level of fitness. If while the cylinder is at the top of its firing stroke there is crankcase blow by, the rings are not holding. If it's going by either intake or exhaust valves, it can be heard in either the intake or the exhaust. If you have a top end leak that is substantial, you won't hold the rings out enough to seal them as well.
fwiw
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:08 PM   #6514
GAS GUY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdd04 View Post
I have used leak down tests for decades with race motors to determine their level of fitness. If while the cylinder is at the top of its firing stroke there is crankcase blow by, the rings are not holding. If it's going by either intake or exhaust valves, it can be heard in either the intake or the exhaust. If you have a top end leak that is substantial, you won't hold the rings out enough to seal them as well.
fwiw
Once again, you are talking about the compression rings and compression, not the oil control rings and excessive oil use.
There is a big difference.
An engine can have great compression and run great and pass a leak down test but drink oil.
And an engine can have low compression and fail a leak down test and run bad but not use a drop of oil.
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:11 PM   #6515
nnamssorxela
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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Hey guys and gals,

I recently picked up a new to me '96 klr *cough250cough* and noticed it has super low miles. Turns out the speedo/odo was not functioning, so I pulled the speedo hub off and had a look (the hub is the same as the 650 and thought you guys would have more experience with it). I noticed that the plate that joins the wheel hub and the speedo hub was bent in from what I assume was improper installation of the front wheel and was no longer rotating the speedo hub to give a reading. I was able to pry it off the gear in there, hammer it flat, and mate everything back up. The problem however was deeper than I thought. The speedo hub was pretty grimy with chunky dirty grease, and I could not get the little worm gear that is built into the hub to spin.

After much degreasing I was able to get it spinning again but it was constantly locking up and I would have to wiggle it back and forth to get it to move again. And even then sometimes it would move one direction and not the other. I noticed there was a lot of play in the worm gear and it seems like it was binding up, especially when I started rotating it the other way. I greased it up really well and I haven't been able to get it to bind since, and the action seems very smooth, but I'm worried I've only put a band-aid on what is inevitable failure.

So my question for you guys is: Is there normally a lot of up and down play in the worm gear? I'm worried that I'll be cruising around and it will lock up and ruin the actual wheel hub when the metal plate joining the wheel hub and speedo hub is forced somewhere it shouldn't be.

-Alex
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:17 PM   #6516
SkiBumBrian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Once again, you are talking about the compression rings and compression, not the oil control rings and excessive oil use.
There is a big difference.
An engine can have great compression and run great and pass a leak down test but drink oil.
And an engine can have low compression and fail a leak down test and run bad but not use a drop of oil.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:02 PM   #6517
Deacon Blues
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Location: Central Iowa
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Picked up my 1st KLR, an '08 w/10k, in March, to do an around the country trip, after doing a little research and reading ADV. So far it seems to be a pretty good bike and fairly comfortable.

I haven't really done anything to it except ride - the previous owner seems to have done about everything. It came with:

Saddlebags, top bag, HT nerf bar bags, & tank bag
Bailey windshield
Dual setting heated grips - these are great, they get too hot to hold after a little while on high setting
handlebar iphone mount, gps mount, & cigarette lighter
Corbin seat
Two Brothers exhaust
HT nerf bars/highway pegs & skid plate
14, 15 & 16 tooth sprockets - 16t installed
doohickey & carb done
also came w/ original seat, exhaust, new repacking for exhaust and another aftermarket windshield

Coming to a town near you soon
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:10 PM   #6518
GAS GUY
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Location: Garden City, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deacon Blues View Post


Picked up my 1st KLR, an '08 w/10k, in March, to do an around the country trip, after doing a little research and reading ADV. So far it seems to be a pretty good bike and fairly comfortable.

I haven't really done anything to it except ride - the previous owner seems to have done about everything. It came with:

Saddlebags, top bag, HT nerf bar bags, & tank bag
Bailey windshield
Dual setting heated grips - these are great, they get too hot to hold after a little while on high setting
handlebar iphone mount, gps mount, & cigarette lighter
Corbin seat
Two Brothers exhaust
HT nerf bars/highway pegs & skid plate
14, 15 & 16 tooth sprockets - 16t installed
doohickey & carb done
also came w/ original seat, exhaust, new repacking for exhaust and another aftermarket windshield

Coming to a town near you soon

Congratulations on your new ride, it looks nicely set up.Enjoy !!!
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:17 PM   #6519
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
. The whole premise is he doesn't want to spend without knowing what the issue is, a leak down is virtually free and if it shows no issues at least he has a starting point.
+ 1. Until specific tests are done, tolerances are checked and/or the motor is apart, it is speculation.

Without knowing the condition of motors, reading the plug is a futile excercise - and the motor in question is an oil burner, so it is not going to give good results.

Reading a tail pipe (as an indication of carb settings) is as accurate as reading tea leaves in a cup, or consulting a psychic, on a suspect motor. Mine, as I indicated, is a dark brown. What goes on in the cylinder is what matters. The motor has 40K miles on the 685 and does not noticably use oil despite being ridden hard at any speed.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:17 PM   #6520
Deacon Blues
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS GUY View Post
Congratulations on your new ride, it looks nicely set up.Enjoy !!!
Thanks, very happy with it. I'd done some research and figured I'd end up having to buy a bunch of stuff once I got the bike but then I found this one and it had pretty much everything I thought I might want to add. Plus it would cost a small fortune to buy all of that stuff.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:20 PM   #6521
Tsotsie
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Location: South Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheScooterHoon View Post
G'day everyone, I recently upgraded my DRZ250 to a 2008 KLR 650!
I'm super stoked about it, and so far it's been an awesome bike.

Here's what it looks like:


And here's a little video about it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WFytTg4xQg

Welcome and enjoy the ride!
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:26 AM   #6522
DutchVDub
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Firestone, CO
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Man, 1:15 AM and I am beat. I'll be sleeping good tonight. My friend's wife had hurt her back early on but was adamant she be able to go on a ride so she toughed it out. While at Hooters it was decided she needed to go to the Hospital so my wife took her in the Sportage and I rode to my friends house. While we were waiting to hear what happened we hopped in the hot tub. She gets home around midnight drugged up and happy, and the wife starts to follow me home. For some reason my bike keeps surging and stuttering, I keep having to pull the clutch and rev it up to get it stable. Finally it just dies and I coast to a light. I'm trying to crank it and I notice fuel coming out the air filter housing. I'm no carb guy, I'm a diesel mechanic for frak sake. I call my buddy up and I'm like, "What the hey man? Its dumping fuel out the air box!!!" He's like, "What!!??"

I closed the fuel valve off and it finally started, as soon as I turned the fuel back on it would start smoking and die. We figured the float or needle was sticking in the carb. I barely crack the fuel valve, adjust the idle screw up to 2000rpm, and start tapping the hell out of the carb with on of the wrenches in the tool kit. It quits smoking and idles fine, I figure I'll limp it back to his house. I get off the phone and it dies again. WTH!!!!!!!

Ok, try cranking it. No fuel pouring out. Hmmm... did the carb un fiddle fudge itself? Open the fuel valve all the way, starts up and runs like a champ the entire way home. I guess I'll be pulling the carb off and having a buddy help me clean it out and rebuild/adjust it. I still love the bike though.

One more noobie question for you guys. Are these DOT knobbies more prone to catching grooves in the road than a more highway styled tire? I was coming down HWY 287 from Loveland which is concrete and its grooved in the direction of travel. My bike was just shimmying the entire time, got me a bit nervous to be honest. Once I hit asphalt it would stop, so it had to be the grooves. Would a less aggressive tire help with that? I figure I'm going to ride what I've got until they're bald, but for future purchase consideration I'm wondering if a less aggressive tire would be better for that. Or is the groove shimmy thing just a motorcycle thing and I'm just going to have to get used to it?


On with the pics. My buddy got his oil and filter for the engine, primary, and transmission. While he was changing all that out I decided to spray bomb over the carbon fibber and mount the unknown brand plastic bark busters. I like them on there, they still block the wind fairly well and I know when/if I drop the bike my controls should be safe.



Close up of the "bark buster"



Outside of Hooters



All in all I put over 100 miles on the bike today, although when I looked down at my trip odometer to watch it click over to 100 I noticed it skipping back and just stay at 99.9, so I don't actually know how far I rode.

Highlights of the day? I stalled it at a light leaving Thornton (damn it) and while my buddy is slowly going and looking back to see if I'm able to get going again this 90's ricered out Civic hatch starts revving on him. My buddy takes off and the Honda is screaming, unable to keep up. I'm like, "What the heck is that about?" and crank on the throttle hard. I redline second and third gear and starting catching them in 4th. A light up ahead is red so we're all slowing down and I am pretty much on them again. The light turns green while we're still moving and that dumb Civic takes off. My buddy goes flying with that big 103 V-twin roaring and I rev my little thumper for all its got, keeping up with them and pulling slightly on the Civic. I hit 80+ (don't worry officer, its all lies. I just want to sound cool) and can't believe this "slow" little thumper is keeping up with the big Harley and pulling on the riced out Civic.

Second highlight was en-route to Hooters. I am coming under the interstate and there are traffic circles at the on/off ramps on either side. In the dark and still wearing my shades I get a confused and wind up in the on-ramp only side. I'm like, "Damn" but wait, there is hope. The median/island has a cut out for the cross walk, so I slow down and turn onto the cross walk. It takes me onto a sidewalk and I goose it and jump off it and back onto the street. Oh yeah, that's why I wanted a damn dual-sport.

DutchVDub screwed with this post 05-13-2013 at 12:47 AM
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:40 AM   #6523
XDragRacer
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Quote:
I'm trying to crank it and I notice fuel coming out the air filter housing. I'm no carb guy, I'm a diesel mechanic for frak sake. I call my buddy up and I'm like, "What the hey man? Its dumping fuel out the air box!!!" He's like, "What!!??"
Vagaries of long-distance diagnosis apply, but . . . chances are, a bit of trash compromised your float valve seal in the carburetor, resulting in the puking of gasoline. A "sometimes" thing, the crud ebbing and flowing (is it flotsam, or is it jetsam? ) with the sloshing fuel in the float bowl, sometimes causing the float valve to leak, sometimes not.

Immediate action: Drain float bowl. With luck, the offending trash will flush out with the float bowl contents.

Didn't work? Then a Diesel mechanic is about to see what the inside of a CARBURETOR looks like! Maybe, just dropping the float bowl will allow the necessary cleaning, versus a carb removal/disassembly/cleaning. [Alternative strategy; "Better living through CHEMISTRY." Some swear by fuel tank additives to solve this type of problem; "Miracle cures" using this technique have been rare in my experience; YMMV.]

Again, all a long-distance, wild guess and whimsical opinion; good luck!

XDragRacer screwed with this post 05-13-2013 at 01:50 AM
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:20 AM   #6524
rodmuzwa
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Location: Pinjarra, WA
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At the risk of becoming a serious nuisance with my lack of knowledge, is the oil filter different on older models than the 2012/13 models, and if so when did they change?
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:08 AM   #6525
Woodenveins
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Oddometer: 477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deacon Blues View Post


Picked up my 1st KLR, an '08 w/10k, in March, to do an around the country trip, after doing a little research and reading ADV. So far it seems to be a pretty good bike and fairly comfortable.

I haven't really done anything to it except ride - the previous owner seems to have done about everything. It came with:

Saddlebags, top bag, HT nerf bar bags, & tank bag
Bailey windshield
Dual setting heated grips - these are great, they get too hot to hold after a little while on high setting
handlebar iphone mount, gps mount, & cigarette lighter
Corbin seat
Two Brothers exhaust
HT nerf bars/highway pegs & skid plate
14, 15 & 16 tooth sprockets - 16t installed
doohickey & carb done
also came w/ original seat, exhaust, new repacking for exhaust and another aftermarket windshield

Coming to a town near you soon
The only thing I can see wrong with it is that it's in the back of a pickup truck. I'll guarantee riding the bike would be alot better, lol.

I like those bags that are hanging on the sides at the front. Who makes those and what are they called?
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