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Old 05-19-2013, 07:06 AM   #6676
ausfahrt
mach schnell
 
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Fl & Vt
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Chain and sprockets

I will be due for a new set in the near future and I plan on going with the 16 tooth front sprocket. This looks like a good deal for an o-ring chain and sprockets delivered for under a c-note.

Have any of you guys gone this route?

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-O-Rin...d+sprocket+set
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:20 AM   #6677
ausfahrt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draley View Post




Works for me. Seems to be good quality. The nerf bars may not be as heavy-duty as some other brands, but the combo package is hard to beat on price.
I Like the hiway pegs.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:04 AM   #6678
Aprilia
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ausfahrt View Post
I will be due for a new set in the near future and I plan on going with the 16 tooth front sprocket. This looks like a good deal for an o-ring chain and sprockets delivered for under a c-note.

Have any of you guys gone this route?

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-O-Rin...d+sprocket+set
I've been using Primary Drive components for years on many different bikes...love them. I'd suggest buying directly from Rockymountainatvmc.com as its their house brand and they do a lot to support the motorcycle community.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:23 AM   #6679
Woodenveins
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Planet Earth
Oddometer: 477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unstable Rider View Post
Shinko 705

75 / 25 tires. Mostly blacktop, some gravel roads, couple atv trails, no single track

This past summer my budget dictated that I would be shopping for another set of cheap, affordable rubber for my 2009 KLR 650. I ordered them from Motorcycle Superstore. I think the shipping was free.

I ran them over 3,000 miles into the fall. I must say, they are wearing evenly, no cupping, cracking or chunking. They are confident on pavement, they are great on tar snakes and re-assuring in the rain. Like the stock Dunlop's that came on my KLR, I think these are a softer rubber compound, but if that means a great ride, quite tire experience that is safe, affordable and not scary in all conditions, than its a top choice for me, especially based on price, and these are typically available. I don't want to hear about tires like the Continentals that are never available and on back order my whole riding season. If money was no object, I would run Avon Gripsters. But on my current budget, I can get a pair of Shinko's for considerably less than just the back in a Gripster.

They are considered from one source as being a 75-25 tire, which fits my riding style perfectly. About 25% gravel riding is my limit (seldom go very far off road alone) with the 540 pound weight of my bike trip-rigged. I do keep my tires aired down from what they say to run them at. Working great thus far with heavy loads!

Probably going to be a 4,000 mile tire. Thanks for reading. Just one ole rider's humble opinion. I have run 4 different tire brands and must say these are quite reliable with no quirks for the money for my riding style and bike weight.


Rear $57.99
130 X 80 X17

Front $49.00
90 X 90 X21

Thanks and thanks for those links as well. Will soon have a couple of those heading my way.
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Old 05-19-2013, 11:04 AM   #6680
MSrider
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Location: Florence, Mizzippi
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Originally Posted by dmottv View Post
Possibly the kick stand safety switch? I had the same thing happen in the middle of the Gaspe. I pulled the cover and disconnected the wiring and it worked fine after that. Just remember to put the kick stand up before you take off...
Good post on side stand switch, it could also be the clutch safety switch. I disconnected the cable to the switch(kickstand) and left the wiring plugged in just to keep the spooge out of the connectors. Same end result.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ausfahrt View Post
I will be due for a new set in the near future and I plan on going with the 16 tooth front sprocket. This looks like a good deal for an o-ring chain and sprockets delivered for under a c-note.

Have any of you guys gone this route?

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-O-Rin...d+sprocket+set
FWIW, I've seen them spitting O-rings @ 10k on KLRs. I have had great service life out of Japanese built Bikemaster O-ring chains installed on used factory KLR sprockets. I've got right at 40k on original sprockets with the BMOR chain installed at 18.5k . Still going strong and sprockets still look fine. IMO, you won't buy a better sprocket than OEM. I've seen Sunstar sprockets roll over in less than 15k on a KLR(not mine). YMMV.
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:00 PM   #6681
Stephen_m64
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 43
Thought i might derail the thread a little bit with a picture of my first ever bike purchase.



saw a decent deal on craigslist for a 1989 KLR650 with just 5K miles and quickly jumped on it. May not be the prettiest thing around but it sure is fun for a new rider.

Only problems with it is it leaks slightly from the drain plug and needs a new chain+clutch cable. No idea if the dohickey has been done. but no money to tackle that yet... so just trying to figure out what i should do to her and in what order.

Stephen_m64 screwed with this post 05-19-2013 at 03:05 PM
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:04 PM   #6682
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen_m64 View Post
Only problems with it is it leaks slightly from the drain plug and needs a new chain. No idea if the dohickey has been done. but no money to tackle that yet... so just trying to figure out what i should do to her and in what order.
If you're talking oil drain plug, a new crush washer (or maybe an oversize oil drain plug) might fix that; new chain? Not much mileage in normal service life of a chain, but . . . replacement remains a doable do.
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:05 PM   #6683
SkiBumBrian
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Location: Redding, CA
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Hopefully the drain leak can be fixed with a new crush washer. Be careful, many a drain plug has been stripped by overzealous owners. Torque to only 17 ft. lbs.
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:15 PM   #6684
Stephen_m64
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
If you're talking oil drain plug, a new crush washer (or maybe an oversize oil drain plug) might fix that; new chain? Not much mileage in normal service life of a chain, but . . . replacement remains a doable do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkiBumBrian View Post
Hopefully the drain leak can be fixed with a new crush washer. Be careful, many a drain plug has been stripped by overzealous owners. Torque to only 17 ft. lbs.
The bike looks like it has been primarily sitting for most of its life, so going to change the oil asap. Planned to try to new crush washer then move to a over-sized drain plug already. really hope to not have to try and helicoil the damn thing.

Since I'm a computer technician and not a motorcycle mechanic, doing the doohickey next is going to be a interesting small project. lol
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:29 PM   #6685
astrolump
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: S flatlandia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen_m64 View Post
The bike looks like it has been primarily sitting for most of its life, so going to change the oil asap. Planned to try to new crush washer then move to a over-sized drain plug already. really hope to not have to try and helicoil the damn thing.

Since I'm a computer technician and not a motorcycle mechanic, doing the doohickey next is going to be a interesting small project. lol
i usually put a bit of grey rtv silicone on the threads and crush washer of the drain plug when i change oil...just an old habit that stops any drips for me.
just a little bit though...don't go crazy.
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:47 PM   #6686
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aprilia View Post
I've been using Primary Drive components for years on many different bikes...love them. I'd suggest buying directly from Rockymountainatvmc.com as its their house brand and they do a lot to support the motorcycle community.
I have tried the PD chain. It was throwing O rings at 12k miles. I orginally changed out the stock one at 18+K as I was due to do a 4 k ride and was not sure. I now have 16+k on a DID X ring and it looks as good as new. PD does not get my vote. RM Atv is a good company to deal with and also stock most of EMikes' parts too.
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Old 05-19-2013, 03:53 PM   #6687
Tsotsie
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: South Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swaino View Post
Hello all, i'm seeking some opinions

I was riding my 08 KLR yesterday when, after about a half hour ride my bike just cut out.
I rolled to a stop and tried a quick fix fuel check but all seem fine.
I have to go and retrieve it in the morning and was hoping for a few ideas.
Does the KLR have a low oil cut out?
Thoughts anyone.

Adrian
Have you checked the fuses? The only time my 08 stopped likthat was when the main 20amp fuse under the side cowel next to the petcock went. I replaced that and all has been wel for several years. I never was able to find out why it went.

Has this bike had its main wire harness replaced under warranty but Kawa - fixed by yourself?
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:20 PM   #6688
One Fat Roach
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Location: New Mexico
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I'm looking to upgrade from my first bike, a XL250, and seriously contemplating this bad boy :
http://yakima.craigslist.org/mcd/3811410907.html

Just wondering what your guys thoughts and areas of concern would be with this sexy beast...
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:45 PM   #6689
DutchVDub
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Joined: May 2013
Location: Firestone, CO
Oddometer: 890
Buy it man, that thing is sweet.
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:05 PM   #6690
One Fat Roach
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Location: New Mexico
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Originally Posted by DutchVDub View Post
Buy it man, that thing is sweet.
I want it bad. A fellow inmate offered to go check it out and test drive it for me, he lives a mile away from the dealer. Just wondering what kind of mechanical stuff I should ask the dealer about when I go see it. And when I get it home what major things should I xheck checkout etc. I've wanted a KLR for so long and this one is in my price range right now. If I save up til end of June I can buy an early 2000s model. But I lack patience.... I wanna pull the trigger but I'm.nervous for some reason.
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