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Old 08-18-2013, 07:23 PM   #8236
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTDan View Post
I mean on the disc.
Not much to go on, but . . . I recommend; REMOVE the two Allen-head machine screws holding the rear caliper onto its bracket, un-sandwich the rotor, and--spread apart the pads with, well, whatever you can find.

Then, re-sandwich the rotor carefully between the pads (making sure the pads are fitted to the caliper correctly, with the "wiggle room" they need, and cinch down the Allen-head machine screws.

Now try the brakes!

A question regarding your maintenance procedure; did you remove the caliper when you first started? If so, was the brake pedal inadvertently stomped, while the caliper was freed from the bike?
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:33 PM   #8237
CTDan
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I'm not sure if the pedal was pressed.
I asked the question too, but even if the answer was yes I'm not sure what that would do.

Yes, the caliper was removed.

Thanks for the reply.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:13 PM   #8238
deadzed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
May not be the right direction, but . . . is the fabric of the carburetor diaphragm INTACT, and is the diaphragm properly sealed? A diaphragm air leak can cause some of the symptoms mentioned.

Also, don't want to insult your intelligence, but . . . are you certain the needle, needle spring and its holder are correctly re-assembled?

Assume you disassembled and cleaned all jets properly; good luck!
I can pull it and check again. I couldn't find any damage to the diaphragm, is there a good method for checking other than just looking at it?

As far as the re-assembly, I did it just like http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature..._iXRggU0&t=174

At this point I've had the carb off 5 times and, since the first cleaning nothing I've done has made any difference at all.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:23 PM   #8239
Nighman
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I have been reading some earlier posts and it sounds like Americans get way better deals than we do North of the border. I just bought a 06 KLR with 4500kms for $4300. It was a one owner bike and he ran it back and forth to work. I am sure it will be a good bike for me. Now to kit it out.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:50 PM   #8240
XpressCS
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^That sounds like a pretty good deal to me, a low low mileage bike.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:17 PM   #8241
Jeathrow Bowdean
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Looking for info Please !!!

I have a 2011 KLR, and I was wondering if there is a kit to turn it back into the older style less the fairing, or is it just easier to buy the parts from Kawaski.

Thx from Don.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:41 PM   #8242
Aprilia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeathrow Bowdean View Post
I have a 2011 KLR, and I was wondering if there is a kit to turn it back into the older style less the fairing, or is it just easier to buy the parts from Kawaski.

Thx from Don.
No kit that I know of...besides on the rear you'll have to start with a new (older) subframe and build/replace from there. I can confirm either rear rack will work on either gen.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:07 PM   #8243
BigShooter
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clutch question

i am fixing to be changing the clutch in my '05 klr and had a couple of questions.
Is it necessary to change the steels, and how would you tell? Or, should I just replace it all? And, is it normally necessary to replace the cover gasket?
Also, any particular brand over another or a brand I should avoid? I am sure there is a high-end one that probably kicks arse; but, I perfer one priced moderately if there is a viable option.
thanks
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:13 PM   #8244
BryceB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigShooter View Post
i am fixing to be changing the clutch in my '05 klr and had a couple of questions.
Is it necessary to change the steels, and how would you tell? Or, should I just replace it all? And, is it normally necessary to replace the cover gasket?
Also, any particular brand over another or a brand I should avoid? I am sure there is a high-end one that probably kicks arse; but, I perfer one priced moderately if there is a viable option.
thanks
I had all the seals/gaskets and used none of them when I replaced my KLR's clutch last January.... That was on a 2008 with about 21000 miles. The original gaskets were all in good shape when they came off, so I reused them.
I used a set of EBC friction plates and springs and reused the metal plates.
The hardest part to it was getting my crashbar back in the footpeg mount lined up right to get the bolts back in. Otherwise, it was a simple/straightforward job.

While in there, clean out the oil screen.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:25 PM   #8245
BigShooter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryceB View Post
I had all the seals/gaskets and used none of them when I replaced my KLR's clutch last January.... That was on a 2008 with about 21000 miles. The original gaskets were all in good shape when they came off, so I reused them.
I used a set of EBC friction plates and springs and reused the metal plates.
The hardest part to it was getting my crashbar back in the footpeg mount lined up right to get the bolts back in. Otherwise, it was a simple/straightforward job.

While in there, clean out the oil screen.
Thanks for the info. And, I will definitely check that screen.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:47 PM   #8246
XpressCS
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Does anyone have a Vapor Stealth dash on their Gen1? I have been thinking about swapping my big clunky stock gauge assembly for the TT Vapor.

I don't see an odometer indicator, is there an odometer function?
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2004 KLR650

My KLR is my therapy session. My quiet time. My deep tissue massage. Me without my KLR is reason enough to be deeply concerned. It is what calms me the most. Soothes my mind. Eases my stress. -Me
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Old 08-18-2013, 11:25 PM   #8247
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigShooter View Post
Is it necessary to change the steels, and how would you tell?
You can check the steel plates for trueness/flatness by laying them upon a glass pane. There may be a service specification, but . . . unless they're clearly warped, I'd re-use 'em.
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Old 08-19-2013, 01:55 AM   #8248
farqhuar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTDan View Post
I'm not sure if the pedal was pressed.
I asked the question too, but even if the answer was yes I'm not sure what that would do.

Yes, the caliper was removed.

Thanks for the reply.
Only other possibility is that you have air in the system somewhere which has been disturbed and is now causing the pads to not fully extend. I suggest bleeding the whole system to ensure all air is removed.
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:28 AM   #8249
CTDan
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I'll give it a shot.
Thanks for the reply.

Dan
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:44 AM   #8250
CallMeBoog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XpressCS View Post
Does anyone have a Vapor Stealth dash on their Gen1? I have been thinking about swapping my big clunky stock gauge assembly for the TT Vapor.

I don't see an odometer indicator, is there an odometer function?
I have a vapor on my 2008. It has a ton of functions, including odometer, trip meter, engine hours, etc...
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