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Old 08-25-2013, 06:45 PM   #8401
CPAT
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Location: Southwest Colorado
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Wicked Aspens

Quote:
Originally Posted by slowoldguy View Post
I wanna go. :sniff: No sight is better to a flatlander than that first stand of Aspen between Tres Piedras and Tierra Amarilla. Been too long.
Hey Old slow, yep they are beautiful, live a little over hour from there, just got my 08 and have been venturing over Elwood pass, platoro, Summetville, etc. riding out of Pagosa Springs. Neighbor across street also bought an 08 and neither one is an oil burner! Starting to explore areas west and east of Chama, hope Jicarria Apaches don't escort us off their lands, they got lots of dirt roads down there. Pat
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:48 PM   #8402
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That Zen Monastery still there on the river near Platoro?
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:55 PM   #8403
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Zen monastery?

If it is, I've not seen it! Been riding to Platoro since mid 80s, never heard of it to date but will ask about it, going back on atv Friday . We've been here full time since 07, so still exploring. Just got back on bikes after 20 yr. hiatus. Boy it's great to be back on. Pat
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:04 PM   #8404
GreatWhiteNorth
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Obviously you didn't read it

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Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
Oil threads are like opinions... No one has, to my knowledge, done any specific, scientific oil and wear testing on motorcycles.
If you'd actually read the 1st link you'd have seen motorcycle specific testing was in fact done. Am kind of with you tho... this has been talked to death. Only reason I shared that is because there is actually great info in those links, communicated in a way understandable to other than a chemical engineer. I researched this a while back myself because of another discussion regarding the automotive vs motorcycle oil debate. Everyone has an opinion... heaven forbid we express it, because on the internet someone is going to jump all over you for doing so!
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:11 PM   #8405
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KLR650 Only Thread......

Left side of the dirt road if you are headed north. I will try and google it. I wandered around up there a few times mostly South of Antonito. Some half buried buses as homes. Spent most of my time lost. ;)
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:42 PM   #8406
peterman
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Location: Springfield,,,,like the Simpsons,,,orygun
Oddometer: 12,816
Clunk!,,not rude, but noticable.

first to second shift,,clunk!,,2nd to 3rd,,click, and all the rest,,click, click click!
Downshift,,click, click, no hangup or clunk downshifting into 2nd,,only up-shifting from first, and only into second gear. What's broke now?
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:09 PM   #8407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsandbikes View Post
170 mm is what they say , i think a lot of guys go to 190 mm
After reading your reply, it seems I remember the 170mm measurement. Is this measured with the forks extended or compressed? With or with out the springs in? What does the lower 190mm do differently than the fuller, 170mm, i.e. harder, softer, faster or slower rebound?
Also, are the valve stems just for bleeding air or does anyone run pressure in them? I remember, way way back when, airing up the forks on an ol IT 175, but I may have been screwing up then, lol.

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Old 08-26-2013, 05:23 AM   #8408
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeterPig View Post
Well...it's on.

[IMG][/IMG]
MeterPig, on what make and model motorcycle did you make this installation?
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:24 AM   #8409
Tsotsie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatWhiteNorth View Post
If you'd actually read the 1st link you'd have seen motorcycle specific testing was in fact done. Am kind of with you tho... this has been talked to death. Only reason I shared that is because there is actually great info in those links, communicated in a way understandable to other than a chemical engineer. I researched this a while back myself because of another discussion regarding the automotive vs motorcycle oil debate. Everyone has an opinion... heaven forbid we express it, because on the internet someone is going to jump all over you for doing so!
You, like all of us, are more than welcome to opinions and conclusions. Read the full context of my whole post too, including; "In 50 + years of riding I have never heard of nor seen any documented engine failure of road bikes due to them using the type of oil their factories have recommented. Plenty due to no or low oil. Since this is KLR thread, the factory suggests moly based grease in many engine areas, de-bunking the idea that those 'additives' will cause clutch failure."

The testing referred to was only the impact on the oil and its degredation. No impact on the motor/s were indicated.

I am fully aware of the process of testing oils; I use the process for work equipment wear indicators. Some oils we use are about $60 a gallon!

Sadly, just reading ( 75 hours + in the case of the Oil guy - who might also have spent the night at the holiday-inn? ) articles all about oils does not constitute 'research'. And the conclusions and repeating them endlessly (an internet passtime) from that reading are less likely to be relevant.

We are all free to make our own decisions. I choose to not line the pockets of the oil companies.

Now there is an oil related concern with KLR's. High oil temps - as high as 270 degrees. Another topic for another day.
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:58 AM   #8410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
MeterPig, on what make and model motorcycle did you make this installation?
2005 klr. Came off a 2011 zx6r.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:02 AM   #8411
GreatWhiteNorth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsotsie View Post
High oil temps - as high as 270 degrees. Another topic for another day.
Exactly why I think the oil topic is important for the KLR. I've had my KLR for about 1 1/2 years now, put lots of kms on it, and flog it hard too. First valve adjustment, RH intake cam bearing journal cap was noted to have some galling on it. Running good quality oil, ensuring it doesn't get low (mine is an oil burner), and changing the oil sooner rather than later, all likely helps keep these hard working engines alive. Although good machines these KLRs, there seems to have been a significant number of cylinder head failures (cam bearing journals). While any oil is better than none, given how expensive it is to replace a head (used ones have become quite expensive and hard to find), why cheap out on oil?
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:33 AM   #8412
BigShooter
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More front fork woes

Ok, so I get my end caps off and pull out the spacers. Well, suprise suprise!
No progressive springs, like I was told when purchasing the bike, after all. So all this time I have been preparing to replace these seals and studying up on preload spacers and oil levels, I've been focusing on doing it in forks with Progressive springs!
So now I'm wondering how much longer I can safely make the spacers in forks with factory springs and if the oil level is still the same as with progressive. I'm stuck up here at work on this bike till I can get it back together, so, If anyone knows these specs, I would sure appreciate the help.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:58 AM   #8413
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One major change...

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Precious_Juice View Post
Sound logic. 2% of the MC's weight is about 8lbs. I'll not be able to tell the differnce at all. Plus, damn near every review reads that the bike feels much lighter than the spec sheet.

Originally Posted by Tsotsie *View Post
2. The stock carb settings, in my experience are very good. Leave them as they are. Do the 22cent mod and place a thin washer under the needle. I went the whole change the carb route and all I gained more gas used. Reverted back to stock and its been like that for 40 k miles. I have gotten 32 mpg at 45mph trying desperately to stay on the road in 4th gear (against a 60 mph head and side wind in N Montana) and 58mpg in Alabama doing 80 mph indicated - with a tail wind. You will get what you get and it all depands on your right hand.

Interesting. I'll look more into the 22cent mod.



Good to know that altidude is not a big deal.


Good stuff! I'll look into Odessey.
I would disagree strongly about the 22cent mod. I have an 08 KLR, buddy has an 09. Bikes are/were identical and bone stock except for the 22c modification and removing the idle mixture adjustment plug/cover and setting the mixture to about 2 turns out being done on both bikes. We both had run our bikes for about 2.5 years with the 22c mod only. I decided to buy the KLX needle kit from Eagle Mike and installed it on my 08. We took both bikes out and ran them back to back, both of us switching bikes twice. The KLX needle made a huge, clear difference in how well the 08 ran, both in feel and in actual performance. The 08 (KLX) outran the 09 (22c). We each switched bikes twice to really compare the two bikes to each other. Both of us agreed the KLX needle kit definitely gives the bike a MUCH better feel in overall performance and "driveability" as well as actually outperforming the 22cent mod in a back-to-back drag race between two identical bikes except for the carb mod.

The point here is if you're gonna get into the carb, put in the KLX needle, not the 22c mod. It has a much better impact on the bike than just the 22c mod, an impact that is both demonstrable in performance and in overall "feel" of the bike. (Other than the suspension changes) it's been the #1 thing that's improved my enjoyment of my KLR. Also my fuel mileage has stayed the same over about 3000 miles since I put the KLX needle in, so no real mileage hit over the 22c mod either. (PS: I put a KLX needle kit in my 06 KLR sidecar rig bike after trying it in the 08 with the same results, much improved driveability and "pull").
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:58 AM   #8414
Wansfel
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Location: Bitterroot Valley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigShooter View Post
Ok, so I get my end caps off and pull out the spacers. Well, suprise suprise!
No progressive springs, like I was told when purchasing the bike, after all. So all this time I have been preparing to replace these seals and studying up on preload spacers and oil levels, I've been focusing on doing it in forks with Progressive springs!
So now I'm wondering how much longer I can safely make the spacers in forks with factory springs and if the oil level is still the same as with progressive. I'm stuck up here at work on this bike till I can get it back together, so, If anyone knows these specs, I would sure appreciate the help.

Clymers - 178-182 from top springs removed, forks fully compressed.
Level is subjective. Many go as low (high) as 150. The less air volume above the oil provides greater (faster) progressive compression of the air.

Shouldn't matter if you have progressive or straight.

Stock spacer is l o n g compared to progressive (2"). Just measure it and add an inch for the new spacer for a little additional pre-load and try it out.
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:20 PM   #8415
steveWFL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigShooter View Post
Ok, so I get my end caps off and pull out the spacers. Well, suprise suprise!
No progressive springs,
like I was told when purchasing the bike, after all. So all this time I have been preparing to replace these seals and studying up on preload spacers and oil levels, I've been focusing on doing it in forks with Progressive springs!
So now I'm wondering how much longer I can safely make the spacers in forks with factory springs and if the oil level is still the same as with progressive. I'm stuck up here at work on this bike till I can get it back together, so, If anyone knows these specs, I would sure appreciate the help.
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