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View Results: Assuming it's constructed like the typical KTM factory piece...
I'd buy an aluminum storage/bash plate if priced below $300 62 65.96%
I'd buy an aluminum storage/bash plate if priced below $400 17 18.09%
I'd buy an aluminum storage/bash plate if priced below $500 9 9.57%
I'd buy an aluminum storage/bash plate if priced below $600 6 6.38%
Voters: 94. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 04-07-2005, 05:17 PM   #61
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surly
She will sleep alot more once she turns 16 and starts drinking



i would at least like to enjoy the moment before i have to worry about that shiz!

OK first real problem. the rallye skidplate the boxes attach to is several flat pieces, whereas the stock adv skidplate is curved... what do we wanna do? match the curve (best lookin) or just approximate with flat pieces? I don't think the cost will change because the water jet is programmed and it dont care about curves. the problem is gettin it measured right... workin on it.

feedback appreciated.
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meat popsicle screwed with this post 04-07-2005 at 06:21 PM
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Old 04-07-2005, 09:37 PM   #62
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Also, when y'all get back here lemme know what type of Aluminum you want speced out. Preliminary pricing looks good!
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Old 04-07-2005, 11:41 PM   #63
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Pad2Pad?

http://www.pad2pad.com/

Welcome to Pad2Pad - where you can design, price, and order your custom printed circuit boards - with components.

a link from eMachineShop.com

now you gadget freaks can specify your own circuitry boards... if the pricing is as smokin as eMachineShop then its a steal.

oh yeah, workin on the parts; drawing them ain't hard (except for the curve... any ideas for measuring it so I can draw it?) but they have some tips for making things cheaper and I am exploring them.
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Old 04-08-2005, 02:19 PM   #64
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material?

Just a quick question: has anyone thought of using thin gauge steel for these? It would take a hit better than Al (allowing it to be straightened) and allow thinner material (similar weight wise). Also, you would be able to weld it up a lot easier, and more cheaply.

Aluminum makes everyone so horny, I know, but it really isn't that great of a material once it is welded. That is why airplanes don't have any welded Al on them. It is half as heavy as steel, and about half as strong.

Then there is the question of the actual necessity of these parts at all- I would just like a simple way to protect the petcock on my bike.

remember- aluminum may seem light, has the same density as granite. How bad are these boxes really needed?

yet another engineers view... J
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Old 04-08-2005, 02:58 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaglej
Just a quick question: has anyone thought of using thin gauge steel for these? It would take a hit better than Al (allowing it to be straightened) and allow thinner material (similar weight wise). Also, you would be able to weld it up a lot easier, and more cheaply.

Aluminum makes everyone so horny, I know, but it really isn't that great of a material once it is welded. That is why airplanes don't have any welded Al on them. It is half as heavy as steel, and about half as strong.

Then there is the question of the actual necessity of these parts at all- I would just like a simple way to protect the petcock on my bike.

remember- aluminum may seem light, has the same density as granite. How bad are these boxes really needed?

yet another engineers view... J
Well the location is great and the boxes are multipurpose, holding stuff and helping with protection. Aluminum is passe' no? steel is soo retro! I don't know...

currently, I am drafting the parts in eMachineShop. The preliminary pricing has led me to change from water jet cutting to laser cutting (cheaper) and trying to make larger pieces with slots cut so they can be bent by us (again supposed to be cheaper). The prices are still higher than I had hoped looking at eMachineShops intro pages but still not unreasonable.

The material is Al 6061-T6 0.157 inch thick (0.125 or 1/8 is not an option). The price of this material is similar to stainless steel pricing but 3x higher than other types of steel. Not sure which would be the best to option out.

For example:

Right Side box parts (6 parts currently) for 20 sets ordered...

Spring Steel 9255 = $72.70 each set
Aluminum 6061-T6 = $79.68 each set

both at the same thickness - I think what this is saying is the machining is the expensive part: the raw materials are not driving the price. The materials weight is negligible. I don't think thinner steel would change this much.

So overall people I am looking at about $150 for the Al parts for one set of boxes if 20 sets are ordered... This is 0.157 6061-T6 aluminum. This only incudes boxes however, as I did not design a lid yet. Probably could have the lid flanges cut by the supplier and bend them before welding.

Arch how does your tool box lid work? Open/close/latch stuff. Thanks!

Like I said before, the big design problem right now is the front curve. Now I can draw a "curve" but to match the skidplate curve is more difficult. The KTM rallye skidplate is flat sections which would be easier to match. Any ideas for matching the stock skidplate curve? Remember the boxes attach along this matching area...
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Old 04-08-2005, 03:05 PM   #66
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hey meatface... post pics, will ya?
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Old 04-08-2005, 03:14 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
hey meatface... post pics, will ya?
not very interesting stuff Loaded but here ya go:



The two pieces w/ curves are the sides, the thin strips are the top (soon to change for lid sides) and the back, and the two thicker strips are the front and bottom (because they need to bolt to the stock skidplate - need to be longer!).

Now how to get that curve to match this one (on the right ya wankers):


note the rallye skidplate's flat sections - the cheaters!

wadaya tink?
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meat popsicle screwed with this post 04-08-2005 at 03:25 PM
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:16 PM   #68
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v2.0

the lid now has slots for bending down the sides, although the dimensions will need to be refined.

I also widened the front and bottom sides for bolting to the skidplate, these are maximum widths based upon flyshop's original measurements.

there is now a tab on the back side of the box for bending to mount as seen in the photos. it's placement and size will be refined as well.



now about that left side... before I go and make one that sticks up like Arch's let's discuss ok?
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:54 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
v2.0

the lid now has slots for bending down the sides, although the dimensions will need to be refined.

I also widened the front and bottom sides for bolting to the skidplate, these are maximum widths based upon flyshop's original measurements.

there is now a tab on the back side of the box for bending to mount as seen in the photos. it's placement and size will be refined as well.



now about that left side... before I go and make one that sticks up like Arch's let's discuss ok?
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:57 PM   #70
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Meat,

How much extra to get the boxes anodized orange and blue, so as not to fuck up Ozzy Rob's "perfect" paint scheme?
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Old 04-08-2005, 06:04 PM   #71
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Meat,

How much extra to get the boxes anodized orange and blue, so as not to fuck up Ozzy Rob's "perfect" paint scheme?
ask and ye shall recieve my pet!

hot off the plating rack blue anodizing will run an extra $60 for the right side box...

but better yet, how about black oxide plating, improved abrasion resistance

but pic yer posion:

cadmium
chrome
copper
PTFE
Palladium
silver
tin
zinc

powder coat?

buff polish?

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Old 04-08-2005, 06:10 PM   #72
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I'm old school....how 'bout machine turned?

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Old 04-08-2005, 06:47 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC
Meat,

How much extra to get the boxes anodized orange and blue, so as not to fuck up Ozzy Rob's "perfect" paint scheme?
Thanks Chris, It feels nice to know you are looking out for my interests
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Old 04-08-2005, 09:24 PM   #74
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Puke

Meat- I think about the only way you are going to lift that curve is using some old school low tech methods. I have lifted curves for one-off projects using a few different methods. I have a flexible curve made by staedler (for drafting, takes the place of a french curve) that holds it's shape when it is bent into position. Might be too small for that shape though....

I would try taking something flexible like a yardstick, and adding a bowstring to it. Flex the curve into skidpans shape and tie off the bowstring (helper will be nice). Then trace it onto some thin cardboard. I am a fan of cereal boxes myself. You now have a template for gap checking.

Start with too large of a radius, then adjust the curve down until you have no daylight.

Sounds stupid, like something a kid would do... but I have made some pretty damn good parts this way. Remember- it doesn't matter how you get there, as long as it ends up right.

There are other ways- you could lay it on a grid, and measure a distance out from a fixed line, and then measure the vertical distance, but in the end you will cut a template to check the fit anyhow....


J
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Old 04-09-2005, 11:48 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaglej
Meat- I think about the only way you are going to lift that curve is using some old school low tech methods. I have lifted curves for one-off projects using a few different methods. I have a flexible curve made by staedler (for drafting, takes the place of a french curve) that holds it's shape when it is bent into position. Might be too small for that shape though....

I would try taking something flexible like a yardstick, and adding a bowstring to it. Flex the curve into skidpans shape and tie off the bowstring (helper will be nice). Then trace it onto some thin cardboard. I am a fan of cereal boxes myself. You now have a template for gap checking.

Start with too large of a radius, then adjust the curve down until you have no daylight.

Sounds stupid, like something a kid would do... but I have made some pretty damn good parts this way. Remember- it doesn't matter how you get there, as long as it ends up right.

There are other ways- you could lay it on a grid, and measure a distance out from a fixed line, and then measure the vertical distance, but in the end you will cut a template to check the fit anyhow....


J
Thanks J,

I was waiting for some such guidance. I will make a template and then use the CAD station at work to digitize it. That should do eh?

The problem is this needs to be right the first time. No make a demo and then change things. eMachineShop prices are good partially because you give them the drawings and they make the whole run. no monkey business!

OK people, need some feedback here:

1) is ~$100 per box too much? do i need to dig for less expensive parts?

2) we need 10-20 people to PAY for this stuff up front, nobody is going to pony up $3000 for the parts and then wait for the purchase to roll in. Unless somebody wants to be a vendor.

3) KTM640Dakar, we need to talk about the design details and how it meshes with the welding machine. I will wait for your reply before continuing with the LS box (especially if it should be larger (come up in front of the petcock).

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