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View Results: Would you consider participating in a group buy?
Yes, if the price is right. 13 86.67%
No, these cartridges are way to expensive. 0 0%
No, USD forks will work so much better 2 13.33%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 07-29-2012, 08:41 PM   #721
One Less Harley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
I think in real world situations, the gaiter wouldnt really do anything in terms of acting as a compression stop. It might be tough to compress it by hand, but a 600 lb bike/rider combo at 45mph is a lot more than a little rubber boot can hold back, I would think, no?

ya know ya might be right, it would probably stretch out of the way.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:09 PM   #722
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Originally Posted by Kokopelli View Post
Sorry, slightly off-topic question, could someone please confirm that I need a 37mm socket to undo the nut at the top of the fork triple clamp? I need to do the steering head bearings on my G/S.
Koko - mine’s an ’88 and uses a 36mm socket.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:11 PM   #723
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Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
ya know ya might be right, it would probably stretch out of the way.
I can only imagine. If you ran the bike without gaiters, would it suddenly gain 50mm?
That would be a huge improvement!
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:45 PM   #724
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Originally Posted by igormortis View Post
Koko - mine’s an ’88 and uses a 36mm socket.
Thanks, it's bound to be the same for mine. I just had a look at the cost of a 36mm socket. $36 made me flinch, for something that I'll use once. Maybe I can borrow one from somewhere.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:45 PM   #725
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I don't know which gaiters you guys are talking about but some can and do restrict travel. On out bikes they are usually the old /5-/7 style mounted up too high.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:47 PM   #726
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Originally Posted by Kokopelli View Post
Thanks, it's bound to be the same for mine. I just had a look at the cost of a 36mm socket. $36 made me flinch, for something that I'll use once. Maybe I can borrow one from somewhere.
I can send you mine. PM me if you want to borrow it.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:49 PM   #727
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I don't know which gaiters you guys are talking about but some can and do restrict travel. On out bikes they are usually the old /5-/7 style mounted up too high.
We're talking The GS and G/S's. you really think they can? I cant help think they'd be just easy pickens. If I'm losing travel because of some silly "keep the dirt off the tubes" thing I'm getting something less obtrusive.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:51 PM   #728
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I can send you mine. PM me if you want to borrow it.
Thanks for the offer, I'll try to source one locally first. Did you get your cartridge set? I had a call from UPS 10min, ago, asking if I had mine.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:52 PM   #729
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Thanks, it's bound to be the same for mine. I just had a look at the cost of a 36mm socket. $36 made me flinch, for something that I'll use once. Maybe I can borrow one from somewhere.
There should be a flat wrench the right size in the BMW tool kit. Maybe the one online, but its better than carrying a big old socket around with you! I used that and the ring wrench for the shock... but then again I have the older style stem.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:58 PM   #730
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Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
We're talking The GS and G/S's. you really think they can? I cant help think they'd be just easy pickens. If I'm losing travel because of some silly "keep the dirt off the tubes" thing I'm getting something less obtrusive.
Mounted correctly, I don't think they are going to restrict much travel at all. I know for sure that the earlier style doesn't.
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:34 PM   #731
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FWIW the standard springs in the HPN inserts give around 55 mm rider sag with a 90 KG rider, and are a perfect match for for the 450 lb spring which is stock issue on an Ohlins., which gives around 45 mm rider sag.

Preload on the fork springs is not a lot more than the depth of the thread on the cap, and preload on the shock as supplied by Ohlins at 18mm.

With this setting I need very little compression damping and a bit more rebound than the recommended mid point, but this depends on the tracks I am riding, and is adjusted on the move to suit.

You also need to adjust it to match the damping on the Ohlins, which changes as the fluid, etc, deteriorates with use, and the deterioration is quite noticeable when you are close to optimum with your settings.
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:17 AM   #732
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Well I'm shooting for 58mm sag on the front w/ 20 liters of fuel, half full on the HPN, maybe stiff for a 74kg rider, but bike is mostly ridden on the road. I'm pretty confidant that the other bikes w/ the inserts dive just as much as mine, no reason it should be any different. Maybe I'm overreacting to it. I haven't felt a bad metal to metal hit...yet, but haven't really put it to the test. Fork gators will soften the blow somewhat, even if stretching out of the way w/ a harsh impact.

I do seem to notice more out of the rear shock, now, it seems more harsh. I bet once the front is closer to being dialed in the rear will need some fine tuning. It's a YSS shock so not the high end Ohlins.
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Old 07-31-2012, 01:30 AM   #733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
Well I'm shooting for 58mm sag on the front w/ 20 liters of fuel, half full on the HPN, maybe stiff for a 74kg rider, but bike is mostly ridden on the road. I'm pretty confidant that the other bikes w/ the inserts dive just as much as mine, no reason it should be any different. Maybe I'm overreacting to it. I haven't felt a bad metal to metal hit...yet, but haven't really put it to the test. Fork gators will soften the blow somewhat, even if stretching out of the way w/ a harsh impact.

I do seem to notice more out of the rear shock, now, it seems more harsh. I bet once the front is closer to being dialed in the rear will need some fine tuning. It's a YSS shock so not the high end Ohlins.
i dont hink any shock will give an ultra plush ride for the rear.I think they have to be set up pretty firm to control all the weight of the shaft drive.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:46 AM   #734
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Originally Posted by advNZer? View Post
i dont hink any shock will give an ultra plush ride for the rear.I think they have to be set up pretty firm to control all the weight of the shaft drive.
The Ohlins on my G/S sure does, and the adjustments only take a few clicks to make big differences....
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your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:25 AM   #735
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When you have the basic spring and damper rates right, and start fine tuning, the last piece of tuning is balancing front to rear.

It is illuminating to ride a bike which has remote preload and damping control, which you can adjust on the move.

As you get close there isnt much, if any, difference in feel between to much and to little preload, and changes at one end can sometimes be felt more at the other end.

But when you finally hit the sweet spot both end seem to come good at the same time.

#1 on the Ohlins - I have had WP & Wilbers shocks but I would always find the extra for an Ohlins .

I bought mine secondhand from someone who couldnt get it to work and removed it , almost unused, it to fit a White Power, which he was happy with.
But he had the damping 3 clicks out instead of 10, and the preload 6 mm instead of 18mm, so it was giving about 75 mm rider sag, and as advNZer has pointed out, once you let that big heavy final drive start moving around no damper in the world will control it.

The suspension on the works Daker bikes looks like it was long travel, and it might have been if you hit a boulder at 120 MPH, but it was set so stiff it virtually didnt move at any speed mere mortals could ride the bike at.

So if you are aiming to go soft/ long travel on an Airhead you are going to have to achieve something neither the factory or HPN or whoever built the bikes could do.
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