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View Results: Would you consider participating in a group buy?
Yes, if the price is right. 13 86.67%
No, these cartridges are way to expensive. 0 0%
No, USD forks will work so much better 2 13.33%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akabeton View Post
The question got lost while Alex and his friends were chatting over their morning beer

So just a friendly bump
Sorry, it was a good question and thanks for answering it, Renner. Sounds like an easy install. I hope I can reuse the bushes.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:10 AM   #782
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I'm very happy with the upgrade, but this is a couple steps up from the original R80ST forks so there's really no comparison.

And I still want to add 10mm spring preload internally.
'hope to do that in a week or two.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:12 AM   #783
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Originally Posted by Renner View Post
I'm very happy with the upgrade, but this is a couple steps up from the original R80ST forks so there's really no comparison.

And I still want to add 10mm spring preload internally.
'hope to do that in a week or two.
I thought 70-75mm of sag was going to be an issue, but its worked out fine so far. No extra spacers.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:49 AM   #784
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Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
I thought 70-75mm of sag was going to be an issue, but its worked out fine so far. No extra spacers.
To deal with the steering geometry changes introduced with the swap from R80ST to R100GS forks, I'd like to slide the stanchions a little further up the triple tree to reduce trail. So far I've "choked-up" about 8mm and maybe a couple more would be perfect.

But the external preload adjusters are now nearly in contact with the handlebars, which also makes damper adjustments impractical.

So I figure internalizing some of that will provide more clearance without resorting to risers or bar-backs.
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Old 12-08-2012, 01:30 PM   #785
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I am finally getting ready to install my cartridges. Did you guys change the bushes at the same time? Since I have no idea what mine are like, I have ordered a set and new seals.

I have never changed the bushes before. Is there a special tool needed to get them out? Is there anything I should be aware of, before launching into this?

I figured that if I do the lot, I won't need to touch the forks for a long time. I am almost tempted to paint the lowers while I am at it, but it will make the rest of the bike look shabby :-).

Finally, are there any updates on how these things have been performing? I hope they are not just an expensive placebo.
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:38 PM   #786
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I replaced the bushes. It was super-easy and nothing special required.

Very happy with my inserts. I added <10mm spring pre-load spacer internally for fine-tuning. Just got back from a ride and am well pleased.

I painted my lowers, then struggled with a modest learning curve at installation. short story = would do well to paint the lowers again.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:03 PM   #787
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OK, I am about to install the inserts. However, I am not sure if I understand the instructions correctly.



It talks about tightening the lock nut against the top cap. To me it looks as if the lock nut will be inside the spacer ( I am assuming that his is the preload tube). So how do you tighten it? What's the torque for the top cap against the stanchion?

Everyone else seems to have worked this out, but I am stumped.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:16 PM   #788
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Yes, you need to insert the spacer in between the spring and the top cap, and then screw the topcap down till it bottoms lightly and then tighten the locknut up to it.

you need to hold the spring down with considerable tension (by hand) away from teh top nut in order to get a wrench on it.

I used a piece of string to pull the rod up through the spring:



then:




Again, make sure that locknut is indeed doing its locknut thing. Mine was a bit loose at first, and I ended up unscrewing the whole apparatus while trying to futz with the preload adjuster after I got it all together. Almost bollocksed up the whole thing


This process works best with three hands. Two are required to separate the spring and top cap, and a third would be nice to then tighten the locknut.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:21 PM   #789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post


.
Is the nail polish left over from your tranny work?
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:24 PM   #790
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Is the nail polish left over from your tranny work?
You totally beat me to that.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:24 PM   #791
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Is the nail polish left over from your tranny work?
:lol tranny work.




Daughter.


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Old 12-17-2012, 12:30 PM   #792
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Thanks for that, Plus I am relieved about the nail polish, it's not essential then? I'll have a go and see how it works out. It's good to see those pictures.

I was thinking about doing this with the forks clamped back into the headstock, so things are in place. Would that be a good idea?
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:43 PM   #793
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yes, much easier that way.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:46 PM   #794
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Daughter.
There was a whole winter where my toenails were pink, then purple, then orange, then ...

While I loved the participation and their excitement .. I happily wore my steel-toed shoes everywhere
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:47 PM   #795
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I compress the spring till the spacer is below the nut.
Once you have a wrench on the nut it will help keep the spring compressed.
and if necessary you can rest the spacer against the underside of the nut to help keep it compressed, while reaching for the wrench with the other hand for instance
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