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View Results: Would you consider participating in a group buy?
Yes, if the price is right. 13 86.67%
No, these cartridges are way to expensive. 0 0%
No, USD forks will work so much better 2 13.33%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-17-2012, 01:38 PM   #796
Kokopelli OP
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Well, I am already stuck, I'd completely forgotten that they use slotted nuts to hold the spring in. I don't have the tool for that, bummer. I thought I had changed a fork seal before, but that must have been on a different bike. I was expecting a retaining spring, or at least a proper nut, like on the G/S.

Is there a workaround, or do I need to ring my friendly dealer?
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:44 PM   #797
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A big plumbers wrench or a punch wont do the trick? :wink

how bout a shock spanner?
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:49 PM   #798
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I guess I won't need reuse that nut. My plumbers wrench just fell apart :-). But I'll try a punch. The problem is that the assembly is under pressure and with a punch there is little control.
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:49 PM   #799
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokopelli View Post
they use slotted nuts to hold the spring in. I don't have the tool for that, bummer.
Is there a workaround, or do I need to ring my friendly dealer?
I can't picture the slotted nut in question here, but a flathead and hammer won't work? Works fine for shock preload adjustment.
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:53 PM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
I can't picture the slotted nut in question here, but a flathead and hammer won't work? Works fine for shock preload adjustment.



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Old 12-17-2012, 01:56 PM   #801
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Thanks, I got it off, It's just that I've had too many bad experiences using the wrong tools.
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:56 PM   #802
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Originally Posted by Kokopelli View Post
I guess I won't need reuse that nut. My plumbers wrench just fell apart :-). But I'll try a punch. The problem is that the assembly is under pressure and with a punch there is little control.
ACtually, now that I am thinking about it, forget the crenellations, just use a 13mm or 17mm hexhead in the center of the thing to get it off. Attack it from the inside out This is what I use.


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Old 12-17-2012, 01:56 PM   #803
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Yeperino. I vote punch/dull chisel/flathead screwdriver plus a hammer, unless you really want to keep it pretty lookin'. Loosen your top triple first and give the fork leg (not the cap) a little heat and it shouldn't take much.
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:01 PM   #804
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That slotted nut only hold the indicators on, . Looks like I need a giant hex socket to get the rest out.
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:03 PM   #805
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I've always wondered what those hex socket type tools in the tool set were for. Now I know. It's all there.
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:11 PM   #806
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OK, I am in. Thanks for the support. It should be reasonably straight forward from here, I hope.
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Old 12-17-2012, 05:30 PM   #807
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find the appropriate size bolt and weld it to a 3/8 drive socket, that works well.

I had made a tool for the nut, with some flat stock and drilled two holes in it for pins that would catch the slotted ring and on the other side welded a nut for the inner plug. Too much work since your gonna toss that stuff.

Your gonna have to relocate the turn signals. I used fork clamps and turn signals from an F650 , had to make a small backer plate for the turn signals. (look here) Make sure the brackets don't hit the tank, flip around if needed.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:20 PM   #808
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I still need to buy new indicators. Before I get to that, I have another question. It says to tighten the screw at the bottom of the fork tube to 40nm. I could do it with one, but the other just keeps on rotating. I'll try again once the stanchion is back in the triple clamp. Also, I am not sure if I got the air gaps right. I did put an equal amount of oil in, so I am hoping that it will work out.

I had bought new bushes for the forks and had been deliberating whether to install them, as the old ones were still pretty good. When I checked the fit, I found that I had been sent the wrong bushes, so that took care of that decision.

Installing the spring is a pita. Thankfully my son is at home, so he could give me a hand.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:40 PM   #809
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it might tighten down better w/ a load on the spring??? I can't remember if that worked for mine.

You'll get used to tightening the cap with the spring in the way. Three hands is best but it's doable with two. Just lightly tie a string around the nut to pull the inner rod up, when the rod is up, push down on the spring, get the spacer to hang on the nut, tighten the cap by hand, then snug things up.

I seem to remember turning the adjusters so the letters ("C" and "R") were pointing in the same direction at all the way out or in. Something like that.


Ok now I remember, loosen the triple clamps and turn the chrome slider to get the letters on adjusters to point to the same spot. Hope this make since. Think both letters at 12 o'clock with one ring showing.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:25 PM   #810
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Nope, I can't get it to tighten. It looks like the old washer was left in there as well. Now there are two washers in there. If I open it up again the fork oil will piss out. I will have to keep an eye on this.
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