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Old 06-01-2014, 08:05 PM   #1
SJSharkfan OP
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1150 GS FD bearing removal questions

I'm pretty sure my '02 1150 GS Adv needs a new FD big bearing. Vibes and rough spinning rear wheel. 12 years and 60K miles will do that. Just glad it didn't grenade in the middle of no where!

So a couple of questions-

1. Do I need to take the whole FD off the bike or can I split it in place?

2. Should I replace the taper bearing since I'm in there?

I've seen most tutorials and videos online, but if some one has some tips/tricks to the process I'd appreciate it!

Thanks
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:49 PM   #2
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Looking for and found help here http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....91&postcount=3

The crown gear can be removed without pulling the final drive unless the pivot bearings also need replacing. I pulled mine to replace the pivot bearings and was looking for additional information regarding replacing the tapered bearing, which I've read rarely fails. I must be special.

BTW Serious kudos to whoever organized the FAQs. I found here in 5 minutes what I spend way too long other places searching.
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:55 PM   #3
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Before you pull the FD apart make sure its not the driveshaft.
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Old 06-01-2014, 09:02 PM   #4
SJSharkfan OP
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Thanks guys.

I've got some play in the rear wheel and it doesn't spin smoothly,so i'm thinking FD bearing.
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"I fire up the willing engine,responding with a roar.
Tires spitting gravel, I commit my weekly crime."

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Old 06-01-2014, 09:49 PM   #5
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Can be done in place without removing from the bike.
If the taper bearing is not scored or pitted you can re-use it.
Not a bad idea to replace the big seal as well.
Big bearing is BMW only (with C3 clearance).
Small bearing common at all bearing houses for little $$
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Old 06-01-2014, 10:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GS Addict View Post
Can be done in place without removing from the bike.
If the taper bearing is not scored or pitted you can re-use it.
Not a bad idea to replace the big seal as well.
Big bearing is BMW only (with C3 clearance).
Small bearing common at all bearing houses for little $$
So I take it you don't need to worry about reshimming if you are replacing the tapered bearing? My bike has 84K on the clock with no obvious indication of the big going bad but the tapered bearing rollers and cup are pitted/spalled. With that many miles I didn't know if this might an indication of excessive preload at assembly.
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Old 06-01-2014, 10:15 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 2dflyer View Post
So I take it you don't need to worry about reshimming if you are replacing the tapered bearing? My bike has 84K on the clock with no obvious indication of the big going bad but the tapered bearing rollers and cup are pitted/spalled. With that many miles I didn't know if this might an indication of excessive preload at assembly.
I always check the shimming no matter what (see exception below). So many came incorrectly shimmed from the factory.
I use 1mm solder in 4 places 90 deg apart held in place by grease, assemble/torque with no shims.
Open and measure all 4, add up figures and divide by 4 to split 'c' hairs
That gives you the baseline for calculating the shim(s) required.
From the manual: Preload:.......... 0.05...0.1 mm (0.0020 ... 0.0039 in)
Shim thicknesses are listed on the Max BMW fiche

The only time I wouldn't check the preload is in the event of a roadside repair. That can be done when the bike is back in the shop.
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Old 06-02-2014, 12:02 PM   #8
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GS Addict, any chance you have a part# and an online source for the tapered bearing? (besides BMW$$$)

I'll have to look into the shimming process. I don't feel like mine gave up prematurely, but I should probably check.
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Old 06-02-2014, 04:39 PM   #9
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Removing the final drive takes 5 minutes and allows to work properly with your final drive, flat on a work bench. Changing the bearing is way more involved than simply swapping bearings. You will need to take very precise measurements. Which will be very difficult doing with the crown still on the bike and the weight pulling down. BTW The easiest way to measure the gap, and the needed shim, is probably with a lead wire. Measure its crushed thickness and add 0.05mm to 0.1mm, which is the preload value.

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Old 06-02-2014, 04:50 PM   #10
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From my experience, I'd pull the FD. easy thing to accomplish.
Then I'd pull the swing arm and check my drive shaft front joints for wear, and lubrication. If dry and snatchy. Off to Bruno or whoever is doing the refit.
It is far less trouble to do this now than after it grenades and takes out the swinging arm and possibly you.
The last time I had the final drive seals and bearing worked at had the entire thing done all bearings and seals with the FD off the bike and carried to the Service department it was $350 back to me.
And that buys me a warranty on the bearings install and re-shim, if they did that.

But, that's how I'd do it.
Good luck,
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Old 06-02-2014, 04:51 PM   #11
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If the tapered bearing is replaced, the backlash must be checked and adjusted with shim washers at the tapered bearing side.
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Old 06-02-2014, 05:48 PM   #12
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I'm not a good wrench - I don't mind tinkering when I have enough time, but I do stuff mainly because I'm too cheap to pay someone to do something I think I can handle. The Haynes manual I have makes shimming sound like such a big deal.
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Old 06-02-2014, 05:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2dflyer View Post
The Haynes manual I have makes shimming sound like such a big deal.
Shimming is indeed a big deal.
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:04 PM   #14
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You can leave FD on bike. Remove bolts and pull crown gear assembly out. Inspect big bearing with a flashlight. You are looking for pits in the balls and races. Inspect cage for damage. If the factory shimming was good for 60K, Id swap the bearings for new and be happy for another 60K.
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Old 06-02-2014, 06:18 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by bemiiten View Post
You can leave FD on bike. Remove bolts and pull crown gear assembly out. Inspect big bearing with a flashlight. You are looking for pits in the balls and races. Inspect cage for damage. If the factory shimming was good for 60K, Id swap the bearings for new and be happy for another 60K.
The factory shimming is only good for the bearing that was installed 60k miles ago. If you change the bearing, then you must remeasure and reshim...
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