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Old 11-30-2011, 12:36 PM   #16
exhaust_nut
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LEDs

"PS: If anyone is interested, I'm about to finish up a full LED conversion (turn signals, brake light, full cluster) on my bike. Let me know if a guide would be desired. "

Beware if you convert to an LED for the GEN light in your gage cluster you may have a problem with the charging system. The alternator exciter circuit passes battery voltage through the alternator (GEN) bulb and the rotor to ground, you need an LED with the proper draw to get the battery to charge.

Or you can add on of these- CLICKY
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:02 PM   #17
disston
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Keep looking for the rare slider. You might get lucky.

It is an improvement to properly align the caliper and the change to an EBC or other aftermarket disk is a large improvement.

The steel braided brake lines, even if I don't like them, are more rigid. Riders report this is an improvement in braking.

Even a fresh cable from the handle bar to the under tank master cylinder can be an improvement. The old cables get stretchy as they age. This is the theory. I changed mine years ago and did feel good about doing that. This cable rarely goes bad so it rarely gets changed for any other reason. Riders don't think it needs changing if it works.

I lived on the streets of downtown San Francisco after I got out of the Army in 1969. It was really a different world in those days.

Charlie
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:06 PM   #18
Arkwright
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You should be able to get the correct slider and the other bits second hand from either Motobins or Motorworks in the UK. Personally I would do the conversion to Twin discs with Brembo brakes and handlebar mounted master cylinder but I have a lathe to make the necessary spacers and bushes (I'm doing it to my Caff Racer) similar to this.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkwright2007 View Post
You should be able to get the correct slider and the other bits second hand from either Motobins or Motorworks in the UK. Personally I would do the conversion to Twin discs with Brembo brakes and handlebar mounted master cylinder but I have a lathe to make the necessary spacers and bushes (I'm doing it to my Caff Racer) similar to this.
Are those 2-spot brembos on the same forks that use the ATE calipers? Did you do a conversion, or do you have a later model airhead with a different brake configuration?

I'm definitely interested in the dual disc, but for now I think a caliper rebuild will go a long way. The DPO's documentation of the bike stopped in 2001, and a caliper rebuild was on his to-do list. The front wheel seems to be squeaky at times and this is definitely going to be investigated; I figure I'll take it one step at a time instead of diving into a pricy and laborious job. Perhaps a rebuild and an EBC disc/pad will be satisfactory.

disston: I'm not one for SS brake lines either.

exhaust_nut: This is actually more elegant than what I was going to do, so thanks for that. As I'm sure you know, there is no LED that will fit and draw anywhere near the normal current. My bike doesn't have a volt meter, so it's a bit of a risk indeed. I'll note the risk in the guide I conjure up.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:24 PM   #20
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Those are twin pot Brembos on 'K' Sport forks fitted to a '77 Caff Racer.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:47 PM   #21
disston
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Also notice no cross over on the exhaust system. I've always thought this would have no real advantage. How's it work?

Charlie
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:43 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arkwright2007 View Post
Those are twin pot Brembos on 'K' Sport forks fitted to a '77 Caff Racer.
You're the 2nd person I've seen with the K forks on an airhead, but the 1st person I've seen using the standard spoke wheels. Very jealous of your immensely improved handling and braking.
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:54 AM   #23
Arkwright
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Originally Posted by disston View Post
Also notice no cross over on the exhaust system. I've always thought this would have no real advantage. How's it work?

Charlie
Firstly it's on Delortos, secondly it's got the latest Keihan 'Y' piece which is a proper 'Y' piece not a 'T' piece and thirdly it's twin plugged, runs a treat, high compression 1000cc. The customer wanted 'GS' downpipes!
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:46 AM   #24
Kentucky
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My '83 RT has a slight leak at the handlebar MC. Is a rebuild difficult?
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:58 PM   #25
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The only special tool you need is snap ring pliers, if the cylinder isn't scored then it's an easy fix.
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Old 12-03-2011, 04:23 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
The only special tool you need is snap ring pliers, if the cylinder isn't scored then it's an easy fix.
The bike only has 27k miles so hopefully it is leaking due to sitting for the last 5 years or so. Thanks. I'm going to do it. I'm thinking there is a rebuild kit available. Today I will check on that.
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Old 12-03-2011, 01:55 PM   #27
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Can you elaborate on the front brake conversion with regards to a bar mounted master cylinder?

I just bought a 77 R100/7 hack and the front brake is just horrible. Like a rock, no feel but it does slow down. Just not great.

I would like to keep the look of the single disk, but add an aftermarket disk like EBC, fresh pads, and clean the caliper. The front brake lever assembly seems to be a one piece unit - how would you add another master to this and still keep all the wiring and stuff intact?
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:44 PM   #28
disston
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Sometimes the biggest improvement for the Ate can be to align the brake caliper. It is held onto the fork leg by an eccentric bolt that works like a cam. It is supposed to be adjusted so the caliper is in proper position. I'm not going to tell you what that is. My method is not even plain to me. I do take the cam/eccentric bolt out and clean/lube it. It is mentioned in the manuals and else where.

Charlie
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:28 AM   #29
r77toy
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Arkwright:
What hub is used with the K forks?
What year/model K ?
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:28 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
As far as steel braided brake lines go, I'm not a fan of those. I'll save my explanation for now unless you really want to know. If you want to use them then please go right ahead. I have one on my R90/6 right now but it came on the bike. I'm going to be eliminating it when I convert to dual ATE's in the near future.
Charlie


Just curious, so I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Thanks.

jim

p.s. I agree on your assessment of the eccentric bolt and ATE calipers. I used a sharpie to gauge whether or not the caliper was aligned.
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