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Old 12-01-2011, 03:59 PM   #16
netsuke OP
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"Glue a new rim strip in place with silicone and go tubeless with your existing wheel."

That's it ! You nailed it !
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:09 PM   #17
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While we`re talking about front end swaps, what is a good `right way up` set of forks that fit easily enough. I have heard that DR650 forks can do the job; anyone heard this too?

I much prefer the look of RWU forks, especially with gaiters` fitted.
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSD4ME View Post
While we`re talking about front end swaps, what is a good `right way up` set of forks that fit easily enough. I have heard that DR650 forks can do the job; anyone heard this too?

I much prefer the look of RWU forks, especially with gaiters` fitted.
here are a couple of threads for RWU forks swaps
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304234
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676340

They are numbers I and II of the 'Unholy Union' threads I linked to on my last post. The other two threads are for USD forks.
The first link is for DR650 forks, and second for Conventional White Power 50mm (WP5060) forks with adjustable compression and rebound.
I am going the second route.
I too like the look of RWU forks, but more importantly for me these forks are claimed by some to be 'the best conventional forks ever made'. I too like the look of gaitors on the airheads, but I have not yet found a set of gaitors for these beasty forks- I'll try to figure that one out later.

Solo Lobo, myself and a few others are doing this swap with the use of some custom triple clamps (you'll find all the links for this stuff if you read that thread)- however you don't actually need custom triple clamps, the stock KTM ones that will come with the forks, with there much smaller offset, have worked good enough for many others- including a lot of Paul Rooneys happy customers (he usually uses WP5060's or USD WP4860's). is all about offset of course. Due to my uncertainty about the trail that these custom triples make with these forks, I am also going to modify a set of triples with a smaller offset (24mm) to work with these forks and keep the one I like the most. Another story for another time...

Anyway, IIRC I think the DR650 swap is pretty much plug and play. The WP5060 can be a little bit more work (the stock KTM stem at least will require some work, or a new one made).
I've been lucky and got some cheap components for this swap from two inmates- the forks and wheel- but even then I'm already probably Aus$1k into it... and that is not counting the Scotts stabiliser that is also going on
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:59 PM   #19
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Hi Ontic,

WP extreme gaiters can be purchased from Andre:

http://www.enduroklassiker.at/index.php

select 'products' and then 'fork parts' I have bought a few items from Andre and his service is excellent. he also has a good range of repro vintage plastics that may suit your purpose.
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:14 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Tanami View Post
Hi Ontic,

WP extreme gaiters can be purchased from Andre:

http://www.enduroklassiker.at/index.php

select 'products' and then 'fork parts' I have bought a few items from Andre and his service is excellent. he also has a good range of repro vintage plastics that may suit your purpose.
Wow, thanks. Thread drift is awesome sometimes.
Have you had these forks before? (on your Rooney special maybe?)
I'm also currently trying to find out what fork seals and dust wipers are the best. Ebay brings up Pyramid parts, but googling that brand doesn't bring up good reviews- any idea what Andre's fork seals and dust wipers for these forks are like?
Looks like I've got another order to place.
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:57 AM   #21
netsuke OP
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The amount of collective knowledge here is quite something. Does that mean that my original criminal intent is now forgiven.. ? Looks like I'll have to put my hands on a cheap 100gs and let loose with mods !
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:48 AM   #22
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I agree with all said so far - your bike is too nice to make any major mods, and attempting to convert to 100GS tubeless rims just doesn't make sense.

The bike will work just fine for your intended purpose, especially with the addition of a decent rear shock and front fork valving mods. Other than that, you're money and effort ahead getting a DR or beat up 100GS.

I suggest learning how to repair flat tires of the tubed variety. That's the problem you're trying to solve, right? Once you know the tricks it's actually kind of fun, and nothing to dread.
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:15 AM   #23
netsuke OP
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Wirespokes.. quite an assumption here ! I have no worries repairing tubes (spent the first twenty years of my life growing up on a farm). I like tubeless tyres and for me that's reason enough to investigate a possible conversion. As I said, any mod would have to be easily reversible but it looks like there is no such solution to achieve a tubeless setup on an r80.

So... I just drove 1800km return trip pulling a trailer to go and pick-up the bike and : it is even better than in the pictures. Therefore, there will be no conversion. Purists, rejoice !

On the 'things to be looked at' side of the ledger :
. carbies need adjusting
. the headlight bulb seems to be very powerful, to the point where after riding for 10 minutes, the headlight glass is so hot that it cannot be touched. H4 appears on the glass, and the bulb says 50W, so I wonder why it gets so hot.
. the starter motor is a brute of a thing which drains the battery after 3 or 4 attempts so it might be on its way to be replaced with a modern and efficient unit - I see that as an improvement which will not deter from the concours quality of the bike. Anyone got ideas on this ?

On the negative side : this bike is way too nice to be taken off-road. Will have to get a dr with a 30l tank for that !
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:24 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netsuke View Post
the starter motor is a brute of a thing which drains the battery after 3 or 4 attempts so it might be on its way to be replaced with a modern and efficient unit
I'd check the battery.

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Old 12-10-2011, 02:33 AM   #25
netsuke OP
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Yes Lornce, you are right, waiting for the rain to stop to go for a good ride and see how it holds the charge. The charging light glows red at iddle and turns itself off with just a few revs. I understand that a bike like that does not draw much but I can't help wondering about (how fairly weak) the 240w alternator is.. If the battery still has life in it I'll have to look at an alternator / starter motor upgrade.
Do you think it is normal for the headlight glass to go so hot within minutes of the headlight being turned on ?
I know nothing about motor electrics but I do know I want a bike that starts easily every time I thumb the button !
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Old 12-10-2011, 04:52 AM   #26
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If the headlight is geting crazy hot it could be a low voltage problem like battery and or old wiring & contacts.

Ensuring good voltage can improve the lumens to heat output ratio.
One way to achive better voltage is to run mini relays in the headlight shell fed by a nice thick, fused hot wire from the battery.
This mod can be done with the std wiring in place and unmolested.
The handlebar switch activates the std relay and the relay switches the mini relays with their own power feed.
If it breaks or you want original just take it out.

I run a 100/90 with this setup but switch to an LED parking light when I'm in the forest.
Reduced airflow over the lense makes me a bit nervous about melting the $8.75 autostore headlight.
Never worried about the $180.00 Hella unit maybe it was just youth and inexperience though,

Valeo starter draws less current, weighs less and bolts straight in.
A smaller lighter battery is now possible.

Std alternator is rated at 280 Watts.
Your operating voltage should be in the 13-14 range.
An AGM battery will allow you to sneak the regulator up a bit on this.

An upgrade to the diode board will improve the output at low and moderate revs.
Improved cooling to the diode board (relocation) will also offer an improvemnt.
Changes to the way the stator is wound and the amount of turns on the rotor can also offer a boost.

If you're not running a lot of junk and have good lower midrange output the std alternator is up to the job.
Throw in heated grips, driving lights, UHF, phone, GPS etc and you will need an upgrade.

Ray Peake sells a range of options on electrical upgrades and the component prices are close to or less than what you'd pay importing them yourself plus it's right first time without the dicking around.

Cheers.
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:35 AM   #27
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H4 bulbs run hot. Can't see how a low voltage issue would make it run hotter?

Heat results from wattage which results from voltage...


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Old 12-10-2011, 06:08 AM   #28
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Interesting post Rucksta,

as it happens I've been contemplating headlight and charging issues on my G/S the last few days. This really is a piddly little light on the front of these things! However, I've never actually ridden my G/S at night yet (I've hardly ridden it at all), but how does the stock G/S headlight compare to say my 90/6 headlight? If the G/S isn't better, then I definitely want to improve it.
I've searched and read through HID 'upgrade' options, but don't know how I feel about them. Have also of course considered some of those fancy new (blinding) driving lights as add-ons.
I don't usually plan to ride at night much, but I seem to end up doing it a fair bit, and I want more light.

I like the sound of that relay and new hot-wire upgrade. Sounds like a good stock improvement.

My electrical needs on my G/S will be GPS, heated grips, decent lights (however this is achieved) and possibly one outlet for the capability to charge a device on the run (phone, laptop or camera basically)... I suppose that is a lot of junk and I'll be wanting a charging upgrade. I'll be looking to charging upgrade (if needed) at the end of the build- but would like to figure out the lighting situation sooner than that.


What is this auto store headlight you are using?
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:35 AM   #29
Rucksta
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Quartz Halogen Lighting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce View Post
H4 bulbs run hot. Can't see how a low voltage issue would make it run hotter?

Heat results from wattage which results from voltage...


Lornce it's got to do with the efficiency of the metal halide cycle of evaporation and re-deposit.
It was expalined to my by a technical rep when I was in the photographic industry.

I'm not 100% across the science but the demonstation involving a variable power supply, photo analyser and a digital thermometer reading the temperature of the IR cutoff filters in the enlarger heads had me convinced.

Short story if you run your halogen lighting at less than the rated voltage you produce more IR (heat), less visible light and burn out bulbs prematurely.
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:13 AM   #30
Rucksta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontic View Post
Interesting post Rucksta,

but how does the stock G/S headlight compare to say my 90/6 headlight? If the G/S isn't better, then I definitely want to improve it.

I like the sound of that relay and new hot-wire upgrade. Sounds like a good stock improvement.

My electrical needs on my G/S will be GPS, heated grips, decent lights (however this is achieved) and possibly one outlet for the capability to charge a device on the run (phone, laptop or camera basically)... I suppose that is a lot of junk and I'll be wanting a charging upgrade. I'll be looking to charging upgrade (if needed) at the end of the build- but would like to figure out the lighting situation sooner than that.


What is this auto store headlight you are using?
G/S compares poorly to the 90/6. The size of the reflector is the major contributor.
51/2 inch vs 7 inch? It's not just the area of the lense it is the depth of the parabolic refecting surface and the steepness of curve.
The deeper dish allows a greater propotion of the light to reach the surface of the fresnel lense (front element of the headlight)
at or close to the normal (90 degrees) cutting down losses caused by reflection and refraction (scatter) and allowing a more precisely focused beam.

The mini relays are a beauty and only cost a couple of bucks each from Radio Shack.
They are wired into the std headlight plug to sense high/low beam voltage (and earth) and supplied by a 3mm multi core wire off the battery terminal.
An additional headlight plug connects to the bulb to the mini relays.
The mini relays are mounted to the rear shell of the headlight nacell with pk screws through the existing holes that the breather tubes for the fork gaiter ventilation used.
No permanant or irreversable modification required if that bothers you ( I don't think it does somehow)

Simple ways to make savings on the energy budget is to replace the tail light with an LED insert.
Instument lighting can run from the Hi/Lo beam circut rather than the park light circut.
An LED insert for the park light is a viable daytime running light if you feel the need for some visibility try 2 white, 1 blue, 1 red, all hi output.
The flash of colour seems to scream copper at inattentive 4WD operators.

The autostore headlamp is from Bursons it's generic 5 1/2".I haven't been able to source it from Repco or the automotive supermarket chains .
There are three location tabs that get cut off with a pair of sidecutters.
A piece of fuel line split in half creates a compression gasket to keep the unit from turning in the std mounting rings.
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