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Old 12-10-2011, 09:30 AM   #31
One Less Harley
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Ok, time for me to chime in. Very nice bike and I get your drift on wanting to be able to go back to stock. I'm in that camp.

I've worked with the existing front end trying to get rid of all the problems associated w/ it. Simply, if riding w/o loaded bags it will do fine for you on the road and OK for mild off road. This is still the case with adding a nice Billet AL top brace, a lower hooped brace, heavier springs, and a Race tech Gold valve. All this helps to a degree, but if riding w/ much of a load the front end is crap and is at it's worst when hitting bumps in mid corner....enough to scare the shit out of ya and I'm not an aggressive rider. This is on pavement, so image how bad it would be off road. The easiest brake improvement is the 320 mm rotor and brake bracket. I liked the brakes very much.

So what to do???? To put it simply the thought of going to an non BMW front wasn't the direction I wanted to go. The GS front was, still BMW and no cross breading of parts. The worst part for me was the GS tubliss rim. I wanted rims to match so an Excell rim was laced to the GS hub. I don't like the difficult trueing of the GS rim...can't be done easily and maybe not at all. The GS forks will require firmer springs if sourced from a non PD. Brakes can be upgraded for under $100, to the Brembo 4 pot. The front end swap is plug and play, no mods to anything except your lower headlight nacelle bracket and turn signal brackets if you get a latter front end. Look for an early front w/ brackets included. The later front ends are easier to adjust the head set bearings though. The only bad thing is finding a GS front end, probably cost you about $1000. Check Ebay Germany.

The GS front handles very well on the road and pretty good off road. I don't take it off road as much as intended as now I have a more capable bike a DRZ400 for the shit.

Source out a different tank to use as a beater. My bike was a little rough when purchased, but a well maintained non-butchered example. It's now very nice as everything has been repainted, but I have a beater HPN tank and two very nice tanks. The stock small G/S and a R100GS tank, both to nice to take off road.


Lots of reading at the below sig links.
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One Less Harley screwed with this post 12-10-2011 at 09:36 AM
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rucksta View Post
G/S compares poorly to the 90/6. The size of the reflector is the major contributor.
51/2 inch vs 7 inch? It's not just the area of the lense it is the depth of the parabolic refecting surface and the steepness of curve.
The deeper dish allows a greater propotion of the light to reach the surface of the fresnel lense (front element of the headlight)
at or close to the normal (90 degrees) cutting down losses caused by reflection and refraction (scatter) and allowing a more precisely focused beam.

The mini relays are a beauty and only cost a couple of bucks each from Radio Shack.
They are wired into the std headlight plug to sense high/low beam voltage (and earth) and supplied by a 3mm multi core wire off the battery terminal.
An additional headlight plug connects to the bulb to the mini relays.
The mini relays are mounted to the rear shell of the headlight nacell with pk screws through the existing holes that the breather tubes for the fork gaiter ventilation used.
No permanant or irreversable modification required if that bothers you ( I don't think it does somehow)

Simple ways to make savings on the energy budget is to replace the tail light with an LED insert.
Instument lighting can run from the Hi/Lo beam circut rather than the park light circut.
An LED insert for the park light is a viable daytime running light if you feel the need for some visibility try 2 white, 1 blue, 1 red, all hi output.
The flash of colour seems to scream copper at inattentive 4WD operators.

The autostore headlamp is from Bursons it's generic 5 1/2".I haven't been able to source it from Repco or the automotive supermarket chains .
There are three location tabs that get cut off with a pair of sidecutters.
A piece of fuel line split in half creates a compression gasket to keep the unit from turning in the std mounting rings.
Excellent, thanks mate,
I think I've understood the mini relay mod. (though I may need to ask for a bit more clarification if I try it- if you've ever got the time or inclination, then a basic diagram would be much appreciated).
Why the multi core wire? Are you dividing the cores in half to power each relay separately or is the multi-core just a better way to run the power than a thicker wire?

And yes, like you guessed I am now not too concerned about irreversible mods so long as they are worthy ones. I'll be putting on one of the G(/)S windshield/fairing things (OK, just because they look right to me), and have even considered cutting out the stock front headlight/bucket/cover thing to fit a larger headlight. Looking at it now, going to 6 inch should be easy, with the light fitting in as it should, but going much larger would require the light to start sticking out the front a little... I am not too concerned about either so long as I can neaten it up (a bit of fiberglassing maybe) and make it weather tight. From looking at pictures it appears that going much larger than 6 inch would require cutting out the fairing a litte too...
I'll see what it looks like when my fairing gets here.
There is something I like about the idea of going with a cheap (hopefully easily available) auto parts store headlight- for my touring purposes, I wonder if there is any particular very common size headlight available throughout Australia and the developing world?

While the thread drift is still fresh, do you have any thoughts on the HID kits?

Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
Brakes can be upgraded for under $100, to the Brembo 4 pot. The front end swap is plug and play, no mods to anything except your lower headlight nacelle bracket and turn signal brackets if you get a latter front end. Look for an early front w/ brackets included. The later front ends are easier to adjust the head set bearings though. The only bad thing is finding a GS front end, probably cost you about $1000. Check Ebay Germany.
Yeah, considering that netsuke is from Oz he'll be facing the same sort of costs I was looking at considering the GS front end swap- which is one of the main reasons I looked beyond that to a non-bmw (and arguably 'better') front end swap. IF the parts can all be found then from the prices I was coming across, unless one gets lucky, I would guess that Aus$1000 would be conservative estimate for a complete used GS front end (including wheel, rotor etc). Shipping parts from Germany was looking like the way I was going to go, which was good for the forks, but not looking good for trying to ship wheels- and at the time it was looking very hard to find a 21 inch wheel here... on top of that these costs were all reflecting well-used parts, which might then require rebuilding or upgrading themselves, new springs, gold valves, etc... a good GS front end was looking very very expensive for me- (not to mention if I went that way I would probably now be trying to scrape the funds together for one of those race tech fork inserts you guys are buying).

So, that all made it much easier for me to justify the 'unholy union' of non-BMW parts- after all, Marzocchi is no more BMW than White Power is eh?
Lauching down that slippery slope was quite liberating, and now I feel free to do whatever is worth doing on the bike. For someone interested in a collectable G/S, my bike was never EVER going to be as nice a G/S as netsukes- so why bother doing things in half measures?
Anyway, each to their own. It sounds like your race tech inserted GS forks are going to be very nice and would be something I would be more than happy with. It will be great if one day some of us get to compare all these different front ends we are building.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:04 PM   #33
Lornce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rucksta View Post
Lornce it's got to do with the efficiency of the metal halide cycle of evaporation and re-deposit.
It was expalined to my by a technical rep when I was in the photographic industry.

I'm not 100% across the science but the demonstation involving a variable power supply, photo analyser and a digital thermometer reading the temperature of the IR cutoff filters in the enlarger heads had me convinced.

Short story if you run your halogen lighting at less than the rated voltage you produce more IR (heat), less visible light and burn out bulbs prematurely.
I had no idea. Very interesting.

Thanks for that.

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Old 12-10-2011, 09:11 PM   #34
Just Dan
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I have to say. I am impressed that some one would pay $15,000 ($16,000 us) for a R80gs.

As much as l like to have a R80Gs. When prices are creeping over $10K, It is time for a re think.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170713787...84.m1438.l2649
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:14 PM   #35
One Less Harley
OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Dan View Post
I have to say. I am impressed that some one would pay $15,000 ($16,000 us) for a R80gs.

As much as l like to have a R80Gs. When prices are creeping over $10K, It is time for a re think.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170713787...84.m1438.l2649
damned shame to see such an unloved G/S........
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:18 PM   #36
Lornce
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R90/6 headlight is a tough act to follow.

7" Bosch reflector is a fine piece for all the reasons mentioned by Rucksta. Ironically, a 7" H4 /6 headlight throws more light than the H7 pieces on a modern BMW. Much more light. Progress?

Late '90's S1 Buells used a 7" bosch reflector, too. With a 100W highbeam in one of those reflectors you get a serious amount of useable light.

I'd love to try one with an HID insert.

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Old 12-10-2011, 09:20 PM   #37
Just Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
damned shame to see such an unloved G/S........
Looks a lot like the op's R80gs by the photo in the ebay ad.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:39 PM   #38
ontic
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Dan View Post
I have to say. I am impressed that some one would pay $15,000 ($16,000 us) for a R80gs.

As much as l like to have a R80Gs. When prices are creeping over $10K, It is time for a re think.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170713787...84.m1438.l2649
Errhhmm.. that's G /S

also, that auction (which I was watching) was passed in, therefore you're making an assumption about what was actually paid for the bike.
Considering their collectability, if anything is an over $10K example then that looks like one to me. I remember a year or two ago there was one in very similar condition on ebay that got many bids and went up over $12K (IIRC) and still didn't hit reserve (that bike was linked to and commented on a lot in the 'look what I found thread').

I'm definitely in the camp that if one wants a pristine restored example of a classic/collectable vehicle (amongst other things) then financially speaking it is almost always much better to pay upfront as much as as the market bears (and as low as you can bargain it down for) for one that has already had the work done to it- that is if what you want is the bike and not the experience of restoration, and that is if you value your time as worth more than a couple of bucks an hour.
For good or worse, I am also in the camp that I can never afford those kind of vehicles so I end up buying at the lower end of the market and spending a fortune to get it in good nick and spend many many hundreds of free hours in the process- but then I am in for the experience of rebuilding (not restoring) so it kinda works for me at this point of my life and finances. Change a few things in my life and finances and at some point I could see myself buying something where someone else has done all the hard work (such as a beautifully restored classic sports car or something like that).

And for what it is worth, if you want to buy cheap and restore yourself (as your most excellent work on your Tenere would indicate) you might still get lucky and find an affordable G/S- I did.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:46 PM   #39
ontic
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce View Post
R90/6 headlight is a tough act to follow.

7" Bosch reflector is a fine piece for all the reasons mentioned by Rucksta. Ironically, a 7" H4 /6 headlight throws more light than the H7 pieces on a modern BMW. Much more light. Progress?

Late '90's S1 Buells used a 7" bosch reflector, too. With a 100W highbeam in one of those reflectors you get a serious amount of useable light.

I'd love to try one with an HID insert.

Damn, really?
These 90/6's really are/were fine machines!
I find the light on my 90/6 (as most other things on it) perfectly sufficient, I just wouldn't want to get any less than that (and would like a bit more).

Complete HID kits are getting so cheap nowdays I'm really tempted to try one.
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:43 PM   #40
Lornce
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Complete HID kits are getting so cheap nowdays I'm really tempted to try one.


I'll probably end up putting them in everything I own.
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:46 PM   #41
Just Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontic View Post
Errhhmm.. that's G /S

also, that auction (which I was watching) was passed in, therefore you're making an assumption about what was actually paid for the bike.
Considering their collectability, if anything is an over $10K example then that looks like one to me. I remember a year or two ago there was one in very similar condition on ebay that got many bids and went up over $12K (IIRC) and still didn't hit reserve (that bike was linked to and commented on a lot in the 'look what I found thread').

I'm definitely in the camp that if one wants a pristine restored example of a classic/collectable vehicle (amongst other things) then financially speaking it is almost always much better to pay upfront as much as as the market bears (and as low as you can bargain it down for) for one that has already had the work done to it- that is if what you want is the bike and not the experience of restoration, and that is if you value your time as worth more than a couple of bucks an hour.
For good or worse, I am also in the camp that I can never afford those kind of vehicles so I end up buying at the lower end of the market and spending a fortune to get it in good nick and spend many many hundreds of free hours in the process- but then I am in for the experience of rebuilding (not restoring) so it kinda works for me at this point of my life and finances. Change a few things in my life and finances and at some point I could see myself buying something where someone else has done all the hard work (such as a beautifully restored classic sports car or something like that).

And for what it is worth, if you want to buy cheap and restore yourself (as your most excellent work on your Tenere would indicate) you might still get lucky and find an affordable G/S- I did.

Yes, you are right the owner may have paid less than $15,000 for the G/s. I feel that the horse has already bolted on finding a early GS at a reasonable price.

Prices around the world have gone sky high for R80Gs. I did track down a 86 G/s Pd a few months ago a in QLD, that needed a fair bit of money spent to bring it back up to scratch. As the bike had been by the sea for a few years and the owner wanted $9000.

Being such a small market down here and the small sample of a given bike to chose from. Will also push up the prices. Sadly the prices are getting away from the average worker,
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:21 AM   #42
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Thank you all for your informative comments which, among other things, highlight the depth of my ignorance in matters motor electric.

I got a chance to run the bike for a few km yesterday, the aim being to recharge the battery and see if it holds the charge : good news, the bike started very well today after a cold and wet night. However, the red light on the dash glows at idle but switches off with a few revs, so maybe the alternator is a bit tired and ready for an upgrade, in which case I think I should go for something a bit more powerful than the original 280W.

In regards to the ignition control unit and 'sparker', I am looking at this upgrade :


Has anyone done this conversion ?

Other issues mentioned earlier :
The bulb is an H4, 55W. I don't ride at night nowadays, so that's enough. It is very bright and you can actually feel the heat when you put your hand a good foot away. The mods (mini relays) you mentioned are well beyond my competence level I'm afraid..
The left petcock has a small leak, I think it comes from the thread attachment to the tank. Cleaned it and now waiting for it to reappear to pinpoint the source of the leak.
Carbis have been messed up after the bike landed in Australia earlier this year - yes, landed, it was airfreighted from the UK. Bike runs a bit rough when at operating temperature. Someone said it could be a timing issue or sticky bobweights, but acceleration is clean and responsive. To be exact, the 'roughness' happens when reaccelerating after coasting : it is not a clean pick-up : a bit of splutter, as if overflowing because of a sticky choke (but the arm on each side is actually operating well). So for example I have to keep a few revs up at traffic lights.
Front brake : scary stuff ! I nearly had to drag my feet to stop. For now I'll just change the pads to a softer compound and see what happens. I'll upgrade to a 320mm (4 pots if possible) if I feel there is a safety issue with the stock set-up.
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:45 AM   #43
gsd4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce View Post
R90/6 headlight is a tough act to follow.


That`s what I`ll be fitting when I get my airhead GS rebuilt, possibly with an HID insert. Whether I buy an R100GS or a GSPD, the existing headlight and instruments will be removed, a 7 inch headlight, genuine surround and Acewell speedo unit will be fitted.

I`d rather spend money on getting a rough GS rebuilt properly, by someone whose work I know, with the improvements to make it a reliable dirt capable touring bike, than buying a `nice looking` bike that has been worked on by someone whom I don`t know.
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:09 AM   #44
Desert2202
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Hi, I just saw this thread. I had seriously considered buying this very bike due to it's fantastic condition and that it had only done 200km since a complete refurb.

In the end I bought a brand new 2011 R1200GS to park next to my pristine R100GS.

My advice on your R80GSPD, DONT mess with it, it looks great and looks like original factory spec, ride it on Sunday's only.

If you want an old bike to take out in the scrub, you'll find my R100GS in the Aussie flea market I'll be bumping it to the front of the cue tomorrow.

Cheers

Geoff.
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:51 AM   #45
Rucksta
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Originally Posted by ontic View Post
Why the multi core wire? Are you dividing the cores in half to power each relay separately or is the multi-core just a better way to run the power than a thicker wire? .
Electron exchange occurs at the surface of a metalic conductor rather than the core.
Multi-core wires contain more surface area than solid cores of the same guage
Mutili-core is also more flexible, this one bends at the steering head repeatedly.
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