My '86 r80 g/s pd

[ontic]

Originally Posted by GSD4ME

That`s what I`ll be fitting when I get my airhead GS rebuilt, possibly with an HID insert. Whether I buy an R100GS or a GSPD, the existing headlight and instruments will be removed, a 7 inch headlight, genuine surround and Acewell speedo unit will be fitted.

Since fixing my G/S speedo and ordering a G/S windshield I feel kinda committed to this funny G/S headlight bucket (which honestly I've never been the greatest fan of- hence why I want to cover it with the windshield). I do have a spare /6 headlight bucket and headlight (missing the lens which I stupidly broke)... I wonder if I could meld the two together somehow... yep, I just had a little play and with a bit of butchery I think it could be done. Butchered G/S bucket with the entire bottom removed to house the speedo and stock idiot lights, mounted above the /6 headlight bucket (kinda like the /6 instruments are) and all covered by the G/S windshield- which may also need a little trimming to not impede the 7" headlight. Uhh ohh.

I'm tempted to try a HID kit. Hell, I'm also tempted to try some LED spots. I like light.

I`d rather spend money on getting a rough GS rebuilt properly, by someone whose work I know, with the improvements to make it a reliable dirt capable touring bike, than buying a `nice looking` bike that has been worked on by someone whom I don`t know.

Yeah, me too, but then I don't actually want a mint condition stock G/S or GS. I am not very good with perfect and pretty things- they don't stay perfect or pretty very long.
With 50:50 hindsight, and as I slowly learn more, unless I found an affordable rough G/S (like I did) or GS, then I am not sure I would even start from a G/S or GS in the first place (in order to build a very dirt capable tourer). I've gathered this 'insight' by realising how much of the stock G/S I am actually changing.
I think I would just start from a twin shock frame (reinforced) and as late and low K's 1000 or 800 motor as I could find. Entirely new front end, extend and raise the rear end ( lots of final drive choices) with some decent adjustable dirt shocks... etc, etc.
But, I don't spose it matters where you start from so long as you end up where you want.

Sorry for the serious thread drift Netsuke,

your red charging light seems to be working perfectly (coming on at low rpms), so I wouldn't be too worried about your charging system- check it with a multimeter to see what it is putting out at different RPMs though to get a better idea.
If not ridden every day, my bikes start a little harder.
To compe with multiple bike ownership, and not riding every day, I finally got a cheap battery tender/trickle charger from Aldi recently- works very well.

your leaking petcock may just need that nut tightened a little bit- that's all it took on my 90/6 when it failed its RWC (that leak was one of the reasons).

Electron exchange occurs at the surface of a metalic conductor rather than the core.
Multi-core wires contain more surface area than solid cores of the same guage
Mutili-core is also more flexible, this one bends at the steering head repeatedly.

Thanks again Rucksta.
I am going to feel a great sense of achievement if I ever come to understand electric issues well- currently, I do not.

[fishkens]

Originally Posted by netsuke

However, the red light on the dash glows at idle but switches off with a few revs

That's 100% normal. The stock charging system is perfectly adequate unless you add a number of accessories (lights, heated gear, etc.) or regularly start it multiple times after riding short distances.

[Hawk Medicine]

Originally Posted by Lornce

Someone's got to say it, so here goes...

Original R80G/S-PD's are hotter than R90S's on the collector radar, and that one's a looker

Save it for Sunday best and go get yourself an R100GS to thrash around and live out your tubeless airhead bush-whacker fantasies.

I'm just trying to help.

Lornce, youre always a voice of reason and I agree 100%.

Theres almost nothing that that little bike needs in order to deliver 90% of the GS experience and modifying the bike to get that last little bit makes no sense at all.

If you think you need something different, get something different to beat on and leave that bike as-is.

[bgoodsoil]

I bought a G/S PD in very good shape and chopped it up. I knew I'd beat it up so I sold the signed gas tank to someone wanting to do a restoration that'd take care of it. I wish I'd started with an uglier bike but I didn't have the patience to wait for an uglier one to come up for sale. There are plenty of monolever garage queens in the world and I'm all for just riding them...but damn that thing looks beautiful. I have a hard time disagreeing with the folks that don't want to see it trashed.

If you do decide to slog it through mud holes in the middle of nowhere at least let us see the pics

[netsuke]

ok, I've had time to ride this bike a bit and it's all good. One glitch : the tripmeter does not work, but I am not going to tackle that - seen what Ontic had to go through !
Being used to a 1200, I was expecting something seriously sluggish but it actually has a fair bit of grunt, particularly with my habit of short-shifting.
After some consideration, this is what I am going to do :
. fuel filters. Ugly, but the tank has been re-done inside-out and I am expecting a bit of gunk to foul the needles for a while - in fact I am about to change the float needles because of that. Pity to chop the cotton braided lines, but I'll buy some more.
. ngk sparkplug caps to replace the oem metal caps
. electronic ignition
. alternator (upgrade to 400W)
. starter motor (nippondenso has one which only draws 80 amps i/o the oem drawing about 110.
. front brake (a departure from the original look, but better than dragging boots to stop).
Later, maybe a suspension upgrade.
All up, nothing irreversible and for the most part, invisible.

[SOLO LOBO]

Originally Posted by netsuke

. ngk sparkplug caps to replace the oem metal caps

I've ridden airheads with NGK caps for twenty years... I wouldn't bother.

[netsuke]

Hi guys, is there a problem uploading pics currently ?
cheers,

[ontic]

Not sure about any problem uploading images to the site- I don't do it that way as I find the sizes too restrictive-
the best way IMO is to use an external image hosting site- might take a little bit to get the hang of but is really worth doing.
I've been with photobucket for a long time now and for a free service I am very happy with it.
Smug Mug is owned by Baldy the owner of advrider so many like to throw a bit of money that way for their image hosting as a way of saying thanks- it also seems like a good service in its own right.

I'm too much of a cheap ass or something like that, so free services will have to do for me for the moment. Maybe one day.

[Beemerboff]

I've been using the $100- Valeo knock off starter fom Caltric on ebay for 2 years, 80,000 km and it has worked perfectly - draws the same as the ND.

A decent battery is essential as the G/S has a smaller one than most airheads. Motobatt do the correct BMW 519** and it spins my hi comp 1000 cc motor over like a sewing machine.

Coming off a GS with HPN inserts first thing I wanted to change on the G/S was the forks - they had been heavily reworked by a suspension expert, Biketech or someone, and were total crap.

Now with a tubular lower brace from Flatracer, a billet top triple from SJBMW, Wirth springs and full synth 7.5 wt HVI suspension fluid they are good enough for the rest of the bike.
Decent fluid alone makes a big difference.

Rear shock on my G/S is a WP, not a patch on the Ohlins on my GS.

I have a $50- Cree LED spotlight mounted on the Barkbuster brackets where I can adjust it as required - gives all the light I will ever need.

EBC HH brake pads will make a big difference, if you can get them for the OEM caliper - if not change to a caliper that you can get HH pads for.

Float level is important on these Bings, I find that around 21 mm deep fuel in the centre well of the bowl works for me. Just drop one bowl at a time and the petrol in the hose wont run out and spoil the reading.

If the stock ignition works OK I wouldnt bother changing it to something upmarket, none I have tried on my GS work as well as OEM.

Even with heated grips I have never had the need for a upgraded alternator - the easy way to stop the red light coming on at idle is to increase the idle speed.

My bike has a oil temp and pressure gauge, a sump spacer and a deep sump- holds almost 4 lt
The oil still gets pretty hot and thin, and when it does the pressure drops too.
If you intend doing much desert/slow single trail in the warmer months I would also consider some additional oil/cooling.

[bereahorn]