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Old 12-01-2011, 03:08 PM   #31
Damian_74 OP
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Battery

My current Dakar's battery had just given up the fight.

I replaced it about four years ago with a 180A Deka. Took a lot of work to get it in, had to make a new battery cradle that was about 20mm bigger (this was four years ago so some of the detail might be slightly incorrect) and mount the battery on its side – terminals on the right.

Fantastic battery, has had a pounding, 25’000km’s of dirt roads, sits for months at a time without getting started, and I don’t always remember to put on a battery tender so it has run flat quite a few times (as a Marine Engineer I often go away for up to three months at a time).

But the weight – it is heavy – 5kg – and all that weight is sitting up high!

Just ordered a SHORAI LFX Lithium-Iron Powersports battery Part Number: LFX18A1-BS12

Shorai suggested a smaller battery – 14Ah 210 CCA @ 730 grams, but as I have the room, and the price difference between the two isn’t huge, went for the 18Ah 270 CCA @ 960 grams, I realise that a battery is overkill as it is about twice what the bike came out with but isn’t BIGGER, STRONGER AND FASTER ( and in this case 20% of the weight if the Deka and the OEM) always BETTER!

These batteries are very expensive in Australia – the dam thing is close to $300. But form memory I paid $200 for the Deka and a good OEM sized battery (wet leaky lead acid battery with half the power) is about $150.

Will post photos when I install.

Damian_74 screwed with this post 12-01-2011 at 03:15 PM
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:43 PM   #32
tmotten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parx400 View Post
On a single spark yes they do help with some of the surging issues. On a 2 spark no.
It did for my 2 spark. The strange thing was that the old OEM plugs still looked ok. Not that much carbon fauling at all, but it started surging.
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Old 12-01-2011, 04:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damian_74 View Post
My current Dakar's battery had just given up the fight.

I replaced it about four years ago with a 180A Deka. Took a lot of work to get it in, had to make a new battery cradle that was about 20mm bigger (this was four years ago so some of the detail might be slightly incorrect) and mount the battery on its side terminals on the right.

Fantastic battery, has had a pounding, 25000kms of dirt roads, sits for months at a time without getting started, and I dont always remember to put on a battery tender so it has run flat quite a few times (as a Marine Engineer I often go away for up to three months at a time).

But the weight it is heavy 5kg and all that weight is sitting up high!

Just ordered a SHORAI LFX Lithium-Iron Powersports battery Part Number: LFX18A1-BS12

[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]Shorai suggested a smaller battery 14Ah 210 CCA @ 730 grams, but as I have the room, and the price difference between the two isnt huge, went for the 18Ah 270 CCA @ 960 grams, I realise that a battery is overkill as it is about twice what the bike came out with but isnt BIGGER, STRONGER AND FASTER ( and in this case 20% of the weight if the Deka and the OEM) always BETTER!
Yes the 18 amp battery will fit, I've got one in my Dakar. But you need the LFX18L1-BS12, not the A1, so the terminal polarities line up correctly. Also, Advrider vendor Rocket Moto is having a Black Friday sale so this battery will only cost $159 if you buy it through him this week from Friday-Sunday (his regular price is just under $170 with the standard advrider 8 percent discount applied).

http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/...attery-10.html
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Old 12-01-2011, 06:11 PM   #34
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HERRHELMET sells more great batterys. supper light and really nice. Iv held a few and cant belive how light they are.

here is what he sells.

Ultralight Batteries: "Your bike is too heavy" www.syclbatt.com

I know him and NMBMN and friends so maybe he call share a bit on them.
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Old 12-02-2011, 08:55 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex_downey View Post
HERRHELMET sells more great batterys. supper light and really nice. Iv held a few and cant belive how light they are.

here is what he sells.

Ultralight Batteries: "Your bike is too heavy" www.syclbatt.com

I know him and NMBMN and friends so maybe he call share a bit on them.
Not only is the Sycl battery lighter, it's cheaper. I have one in each bike and have never had an issue with them.

The Ballistics are great, but I use the AH8 series. The AH4 will start most anything up to 450cc, but it's better to use the 8's. I also carry a 4 in my Mojavi bag, just in case someone needs a jump real quick. It weighs less than 10oz.
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:43 PM   #36
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Stress calculations

Have done the stress calculations, Considered the swing arm as a simple beam, I am sure there are a few Mechanical Engineers out there will correct my calculations and welcome the input.


The ally section that would be ideal is - 6061 T6 80mm x 50mm x 3mm
I have assumes that the BMW swingarm is made from Low Carbon steel, I really cant see them using anything too exotic.

In reality, I will look for 100mm x 50mm x 3mm. I will have to thin the fwd section of the arm to match into the frame mounting point but as that is a much reduced bending moment compared to the rear section (185mm to 415mm from the shock mount). There is one thing punching all the numbers through the computer and another trusting your life to it I think that I would prefer a bit higher factor of safety even if it will come in 20% heavier!

A quick approximation will have the swing arm coming in at about 7kg - does any one have the weight of the OEM swingarm handy?

Now to find a supplier that will sell it by the meter??



Plot 1 (red) - Low Carbon Steel 70mm x 30mm x 2mm
Plot 2 (green) - 6061 T6 80mm x 50mm x 3mm
Plot 3 (blue) - 6061 T6 100mm x 50mm x 3mm
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:40 PM   #37
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Hey, that's cool. Can you do 80x40x4mm for me? I was thinking about a 50mm wide section and the clearances make me want something a little narrower. 30mm wide would be sweet but you'd need to find something thick enough.

I think OEM weight is 13.05lbs, or so says the Max BMW parts fiche online. The Xchallenge is 8.76lbs. 7kg is a bit much, I'm sure it's possible to match the weight if anything. Actually, can we just use and Xc swing arm?

Just went through a solidworks drafting tutorial with a friend. Ummm, my head feels pretty numb right now. That and my edition is 8 years old, so a little outdated. Cool thing is my friend is willing to help me draw up the parts. Trying to not over think this project and keep it simple, so help drawing up some of the parts will be nice.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:17 AM   #38
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I had run 80mm x 40mm x 4mm through as an experment - but I am not sure if it is a stock size - I can't find it in any product lists.

It matches the OEM beam for stress and is size would make fitting easier - if you find it let me know!



Plot 1 (red) - Low Carbon Steel 70mm x 30mm x 2mm
Plot 2 (green) - 6061 T6 80mm x 40mm x 4mm
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:33 AM   #39
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Material Weights

Low carbon steel 70mm x 30mm x 2mm - 2.93 kgs / m
6061 T5 100mm x 50mm x 3mm 2.3kgs / m
6061 T5 100 x 40mm x 3mm 2.17kgs / m
6061 T5 80 x 50mm x 3mm 2.016kgs / m
6061 T5 80 x 40mm x 4mm 2.42kgs / m
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:19 AM   #40
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I like custom fabrication as much as anybody but in this case it appears to be more functional (lighter!!), simpler and cheaper to try and find a suitable swingarm from another bike.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:19 PM   #41
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Lukas, I see your point. Still, the final drive chain and brakes are not on the "normal" side with the bmw's excepting the g450x, so if you found a ktm swingarm you would still have to modify it for the brake mount and chain guide. Something about welding on an unknown aluminum alloy makes me weary. But I am looking for one and will pick it up if the price is right, just to see what might work.

Damian, the 80x40x4mm I found is from an importer of European material called Parker Steel (MetricMetal.com) out of Toledo, Ohio. It is 6060 T6. They quoted me about $30/ft...

I just found a closer metal yard that has 1.5"x3.0"x0.1875" 6061 T5 on their site. I am going to call them tomorrow and see if they have any in stock and what the cost is. Not sure which would be better to go with. The 1.5x3.0 is narrower by about 2mm and has a greater sectional area by about 10%. I need to read up on the tempering again, but it seems worth it to beef up the wall a bit, just to be on the safe side. Any chance you can do one of those stress analysis runs for this stuff?

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Old 12-05-2011, 05:01 AM   #42
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6060 to 6061

LoJack - 6060 is not the same strength as 6061!



Plot 1 (red) - Low Carbon Steel 70mm x 30mm x 2mm
Plot 2 (green) - 6061 T6 80mm x40mm x 4mm
Plot 3 (blue) - 6060 T6 100mm x 40mm x 4mm




Plot 1 (red) - 6061 1.5"x3.0"x0.1875" ( I wish you Yanks would catch up with the rest of the world ans use Metric)
Plot 2 (green) - Low Carbon Steel 70mm x 30mm x 2mm


I agree with you about welding on a swingarm on unknown material - it is a big no no when it is a structrual member. If you find the specifications for 6061 TS, let me know - I am having trouble finding any info in it

I need

Elastic Modulas, Shear Moudlus, Poisson's Ratio and Mass Density
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Old 12-05-2011, 07:34 AM   #43
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Unknown material

Just a suggestion, since any manufacture has put a bunch of r&d into their swing arm, it seems easier to me to simply identify what type of aluminum it is. My suggestion would be to call up your local university and ask for the contact information for their faculty in charge of mechanical materials engineering. These people would be easily able to identify the type of aluminum you are swingarm is.
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Old 12-05-2011, 10:17 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoJack View Post
Lukas, I see your point. Still, the final drive chain and brakes are not on the "normal" side with the bmw's excepting the g450x, so if you found a ktm swingarm you would still have to modify it for the brake mount and chain guide. Something about welding on an unknown aluminum alloy makes me weary. But I am looking for one and will pick it up if the price is right, just to see what might work.
Lojack
When I was working on my twin engine swap 2-3 years ago I was dealing with the same problem of having to switch brake and chain drive sides. So I called KTM HQ in Austria and managed to get through to an engineer who told me the details of the swingarm aluminum. Unfortunately I don't find my notes any more, but it was 3 or 4 different grades for the boxed section, the rear axle stays, the shock mounts etc. Haven't been able to reach anybody direct since then, they always revert me to the dealers who are completely clueless on these kind of details.

If you are just talking about welding on the brake caliper mounting pin if you have to switch the side, I don't think I would be overly concerned with weakening the material too much. It's a small area and the load is not big at all.
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:46 PM   #45
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It has started!

Drove down to pick up my new/second hand Dakar - it's a 2005 Twin Spark - it has a few km's on it - 90K - but I got it cheap. The dam thing rides better than the one I have under the house - and it has only 30K on the clock - but nearly all of that 30K was on rough dirt roads!

So it has begun bits of BMW flying over each shoulder, deciding what to keep and what to dump!

First thing on the list the front end! My other Dakar has had the Emulators/ heavy spring treatment and I still find the end of their travel on a regular basis (it does have TT tanks 39l is a lot of fuel with 22 of that over the front wheel!) so something has to be done.

By chance I have a brand new, 0km DRZ400 front end along with a set of billet triples and Scotts damper. I know that most of you have gone and fitted Yamaha upside down forks, but I have these in stock. In speaking with the local suspension guru - http://www.mpesuspension.com.au/ , in his opinion the DRZ front end would almost be a better choice for an Adventure style bike rather than YZ upside downs from a MX or other Enduro bike. I know that this will get a flurry of replies but lets just consider this as an alternative. Upside down forks have their issues too!

Bearings the STD DRZ outer shells are the same size as BMW at least that bit was easy!

The Steam is shorter Dam!



Turned up a new one used 6061 T6 although I used a solid section, the finial weight for the stem came in at 100g lighter than the OME part was going to drill it out but thought a higher factor of safety would be better and dont have any drill bits long enough (if drilled weight saving worked out to be about 80grams for a 10mm hole).




Nuts Still had the locknut from the DRZ but needed the lower nut. I liked the profile of the BWM lower as it offered a slight amount of protection to the upper bearing. Copied the profile and threaded the centre. It is an odd thread 30 x 1.0 cant say that I have ever come across a thread of that size, that fine had to find my specs to turn that one!




Made a few slots in the nut for a C spanner was quite happy with the final result.




Next is to make a tower for the Damper.

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