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Old 12-03-2011, 01:24 PM   #16
Lornce
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Hi Jenna,
Almost exactly the same thing happened to the R80G/S I bought in BC last summer. I was fortunate to be able to visit a buddy with a tig welder and some tubing to fit -inside- the broken frame. We drilled some holes in the subframe tubes either side of the crack and plug welded the slip fit tubing to the frame. The joint weld was more or less just for cosmetics, the real strength came from the plug welds.

Does that make sense?


I have no idea what this is a picture of?

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Old 12-03-2011, 01:58 PM   #17
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I hope thats not what I think it it is

Lornce

I am thinking that is the rubber support cushion for the back of the gas tank. If it is, that is about were the rear frame tubes from the swing arm area join the top main tube under the tank. ie main frame. Like I said, I hope that is not what I think it is.

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Old 12-03-2011, 02:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce View Post
Hi Jenna,
.........some tubing to fit -inside- the broken frame. We drilled some holes in the subframe tubes either side of the crack and plug welded the slip fit tubing to the frame. The joint weld was more or less just for cosmetics, the real strength came from the plug welds.

Does that make sense?


That's exactly what I was thinking of. Go ahead and do the other side to as it's not if it'll break but when. Don't be scared about cutting on the frame to get to put tubing in it it's no big deal. Look at the welds on the factory gussets only welded on one side. Since it's off do the back side. Blake has got one hell of an offer, but you've got bag mounts and that new seat to worry about $$$$$$$. If you dot he tubing and add a gusset to the opposite side then that aught do do you for another 10 years of appropriate use. Just quit ridding w/ Brad and your bike will be most appreciative.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce View Post
Hi Jenna,
Almost exactly the same thing happened to the R80G/S I bought in BC last summer. I was fortunate to be able to visit a buddy with a tig welder and some tubing to fit -inside- the broken frame. We drilled some holes in the subframe tubes either side of the crack and plug welded the slip fit tubing to the frame. The joint weld was more or less just for cosmetics, the real strength came from the plug welds.

Does that make sense? Yes. That's essentially what I did minus the tig part, the plug part, and the fact that your friend has experience.


I have no idea what this is a picture of?

That was the tounge on the front of my seat that fits into the backbone.

@ WB and Blake, you guys are so generous and I may take you up on the offer one day, but for now I'm gonna fly with what I got. Now, I am not a welder but would like to know that I could potentially fix things with it. So I got busy today, and if you promise not to laugh, here is the outcome thus far....

Photo & Video Sharing by SmugMug









I'll work on the gussets tomorrow. Again, thanks for all you advice and generous offers. Now, anybody got an idea on saving my seat???
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:16 PM   #20
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I'm having a hard time telling what the kick me when Im down pic is...

But heck this is just a subframe... No worries, its a sign of maturity and correct usage
flat tire....

You're right, it is just a subframe that's why I cut it in half....
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:20 PM   #21
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That's third world ugly... and it'll probably work.

But... I think we can do better.

Carefully cut those welds and remove all that rebar from your subframe. Someone in Atlanta please help this girl find some suitable -tubing- that will fit the ID of her subframe.

We can't let you do this all half-assed.

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Old 12-03-2011, 02:29 PM   #22
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the word is resourceful

That using what you have in hand! Go to the local welding shop. Take the subfame with you. They will find something for you.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:30 PM   #23
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I like it



It looks like mice nibbled your joints
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:44 PM   #24
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I like it



It looks like mice nibbled your joints
Thanks Stage, I like it too!!! I'm not kidding when I say I'm flat broke. I don't have 10 bucks to even go to the scrapyard and pick anything up. I used what I had and if I break it again....it'll be easier to fix!

About to go meet a guy that has a set dressing co. There are so many movies and shows being filmed in Atlanta right now, I think I could actually have a real job. I'm just sad since I may have to shut my wood floor business down...

I'm going to leave it for now, unless by some miracle I stumble across some nice steel.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:13 PM   #25
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Jenna, you need to drill some holes in the original tubing and then weld the holes up. What you are trying to do is tie the rbar ( Tubing would be better) to the frame and not just where it's been cut and welded. As that may fail.






Also no sharp inside corners, they need to be radiused.


BTW- I feel for you on work. It's hard to walk away from something you like doing, but if the money isn't there. It's time to move on. Contract work just gives you little bits of money every now and then, just teasing you along. Besides being self employed, no benefits, no real insurance and no retirement!!!! Plus that kind of work takes it's toll on your body so how will you body handle it when your 60??? Might be different if there was money in it, but just not enough.
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One Less Harley screwed with this post 12-03-2011 at 03:31 PM
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:33 PM   #26
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Jenna - as OLH already said - drill some holes through the rebar and weld them up. The reason is that tubing is weakened when welding circumferentially, in which case it's likely to break there again. The real strength is in the inner tubing (in your case, rebar) and tying the two together. The drilled holes, then welded, will accomplish that.

Good luck getting some good paying work! I certainly can understand where you're coming from!
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:52 PM   #27
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when welding the rebar, turn up the heat all the way!!! Make sure to clean up to bare metal, strip the complete area where welding.


Don't drill through the rebar!!! Just the outer tubing, a decent size hole too.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:26 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
when welding the rebar, turn up the heat all the way!!! Make sure to clean up to bare metal, strip the complete area where welding.


Don't drill through the rebar!!! Just the outer tubing, a decent size hole too.
Should it be done on both sides? Or can I just keep it on the inside so no one else will laugh at me?

As far as the radius comment, where you've photoshopped yellow in is where I should make gussets? Just wondering why bmw didn't do it in front of the down tube on the subframe that you have marked?
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:58 PM   #29
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I doubt a few bumps from welding on the outside will be the major aesthetic draw when looking at your subframe.

fer instance - that rebar brace kinda stands right out there!

Yeah, do it on both sides! If it's too ugly for you, file it smooth and it'll be unnoticeable once black.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:04 PM   #30
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I'd drill 8 holes for each strip of rebar, dress the plugs down with a grinder then a flap disc and no one will ever see the repair!


Weld both sides of the gussets, not sure if the extra front ones need to be as big as pictured. Double check how the Ohlins fits make sure your not interfering with anything. Plus the extra gusset on the left might interfere with the grab handle.


This is what I would do if it were mine, of course some more experienced guys might chime in.

To bad your not in BG, it'd be fun to fix that thing.
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One Less Harley screwed with this post 12-03-2011 at 06:12 PM
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