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Old 05-19-2013, 05:15 AM   #301
gplassm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu View Post
Gplassm,

Some of us, but certainly not all of us, like hard edged bikes whether street bikes or dirt bikes. We live with compromises to enjoy them at peak performance. A 500 EXC geared 15/48, with a better saddle, a cushioned hub and larger gas tank would make a very capable dual sport if you want the ultimate in performance and handling off-road. Geared 15/50 it should be pretty well ready for the TAT. Some inmates have gone the other way and made their DR650/DR400s, as an example, more dirt worthy and they live with those compromises while apparently slanting their needs toward more hard surface riding.

The 350 EXC is a bike that could be considered for DS riding but this is a thread about a different bike, the 500 EXC.

Stu
I understand. In the rather lengthy "KTM 500 EXC?" thread, there have been plenty of posts about the 350, simply because the bikes are so similar. One big difference, though, is the primary gearing. This is why my sprocket identifications are often misunderstood, and do not "make sense" to 500 owners.
Regardless, both of the new EXC-F's are very good dirt bikes, with very few "street bike" pretenses.
Again, if you want a *Great* dirt bike, that can get down the pavement, legally, the EXC-F's are one of the few bikes available that can fulfil that duty right off of the showroom floor. I still would not consider my EXC-F to be the bike of choice for running errands around town.
JMO.
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Old 05-20-2013, 05:33 PM   #302
Nice_Rumble
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2013 ktm 500exc

Any 2013 owners experiencing blue oil smoke emitting from your exhaust? The first time I fired mine up to do a ride my riding partner told me my machine was smoking. I was credulous as it's a zero mile bike and told him it's probably just oil residue burning off the pipe. Then the next day I noticed it myself when starting it up after washing the bike. The second ride it did the same thing and my buddy said he could smell oil all day while riding behind me. I called the dealer and he took it in and saw the smoke when starting it after sitting all night. He agreed something was not right so he called KTM and they said they changed the material composition of the rings (harder to make the engines last longer I was told) verses 2012 and that it would take at least 800 miles for the rings to seat. I had just changed the oil after the two rides with Motorex full Synthetic. KTM headquarters also said NOT to use synthetic oil during this time period as it would only exacerbate the problem so the dealer dumped out the synthetic oil and replaced with mineral oil.

This begs the question why did not KTM inform their dealer network and customers of this situation? Especially if we are not supposed to be using Synthetic.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:06 PM   #303
garrett
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Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble View Post
Any 2013 owners experiencing blue oil smoke emitting from your exhaust? The first time I fired mine up to do a ride my riding partner told me my machine was smoking. I was credulous as it's a zero mile bike and told him it's probably just oil residue burning off the pipe. Then the next day I noticed it myself when starting it up after washing the bike. The second ride it did the same thing and my buddy said he could smell oil all day while riding behind me. I called the dealer and he took it in and saw the smoke when starting it after sitting all night. He agreed something was not right so he called KTM and they said they changed the material composition of the rings (harder to make the engines last longer I was told) verses 2012 and that it would take at least 800 miles for the rings to seat. I had just changed the oil after the two rides with Motorex full Synthetic. KTM headquarters also said NOT to use synthetic oil during this time period as it would only exacerbate the problem so the dealer dumped out the synthetic oil and replaced with mineral oil.

This begs the question why did not KTM inform their dealer network and customers of this situation? Especially if we are not supposed to be using Synthetic.
I had some oil burning/smoking for a short period while winter/ice riding when the bike was new. It's stopped now and oil consumption is minimal on mine. I only have about 20 hours on it, 95% trail use so far.

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Old 05-20-2013, 08:59 PM   #304
MasterMarine
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You should have seen my buddy when I drained the oil out of the bike after only running it for 5 minutes once it was free from the crate. I think he wanted to take it home and put it in his Hardley! Well that was until he saw the little bits of metal in the screens.

I thought everyone knew that you are supposed to run convention oil for break in. I am using Honda GN-4. I guess I will be using it for at least 1000 miles. My dealer knew about the oil burning issue and checked with me to make sure I was going to run conventional oil for a while.

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Old 05-26-2013, 03:22 PM   #305
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KTM 500 EXC does the Mississippi Hill Country

Hi All -

Just wanted to say that I rode the 2 day Mississippi Hill Country trail (east track and west track) and the 500 did an outstanding job.

- Stock tank (needs to be a bit larger) but fuel stops were every 50 miles
- I knew knobbies might be overkill, so me and my buddy rode on 17" shoes. I used Avon Distanzias. They did just fine. Slick as shit in the gooey stuff.

The trip was great. We had a ball. But we did have 1 reocurring issue. My buddy's CRF 450 had 3 flats along the way. We had enough to fix the first flat (tools + air) but no air for the second 2 flats. The first flat was from a nail. We patched it and off we went. The patch finally failed about 75 miles later. We limped into town (11 miles worth of limping). The next morning we woke and got a 2 heavy duty tubes from a local shop. The hotel room made a great shop. I love carpetted garages. We had another flat 100 miles into day 2. The heavy duty tubes were just a bit too large in diameter which left a kink in the tube when fully inflated.

A couple of flats, but all in all a great trip and it was way better than being in the office.

The KTM was flawless. Wouldn't have rather had any other bike.

Josh
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:48 PM   #306
vintageveloce
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KTM Gas Cap Fix

A couple guys have posted about this already, but as I just had this problem I thought I'd summarize what I've found in a bunch of these posts, with my own twist.
The problem is the button on top of the gas cap doesn't let you remove the cap sometimes. I'd heard this was often a problem, and when I picked up my new 350 EXC-F at the dealer yesterday I tried to remove the cap... and sure enough it didn't come off easily.

First, here are some tips if you get the cap stuck on:

-There are three prongs that need to lift UP to release the cap. So you aren't helping if you are pushing down on the cap when you try to remove it. You need to pull UP on the cap at the same time as pushing DOWN on the button. If the cap is really stuck get someone else to push the button while you LIFT and turn the cap

- Also, if you only push on the tab, that might only release the prong on that side of the cap, and if any of the three prongs stay down the cap won't release. Try removing the vent hose and push down on the center where the hose was. Don't use a using a tool to push as it is unlikely to help and will mar the cap. Just push firmly and make sure the button goes down all around, not just the tab on one side.

Summary: Remove the hose. Push down on the center where the hose is attached and watch to see the button is depressed on all sides. Pull UP on the cap while pushing down on the button. Turn the cap counterclockwise to open. Rotating back and forth (clockwise & counterclockwise) may help release the prongs if they are stuck.

Now the fixes:

1. Some people advocate loosening the screws on the bottom of the cap (this was shown in a Tech Tip in Dirt Rider magazine). This might help... but looking how the cap is built I wouldn't recommend it as a particularly effective solution.

2. Some guys have removed the orange three pronged widget from the cap and discarded it. Or just cut the prongs off. This results in a cap that doesn't lock on and makes the button non-functional. It may be unlikely that the cap will come loose in a fall, but I really don't like this solution.

3. Some guys trim the corner that the prong catches on in the tank. This could be a bit scary, as you don't want to drop any bits into the tank or accidentally cut your tank too much. However, it is a really good idea to inspect that corner to make sure a deformation or bit of scarf isn't holding up the release of the prongs.

4. My choice was to modify the prongs on the cap. This should work the same as modifying the tank, and if something goes wrong you have only hurt the gas cap. (Worse case is you just end up with fix #2.) I did the mod by removing the orange widget from the cap, trimming it, and then re-assembling the cap.

Here are some pics of the modified prongs. I did this carefully by removing the widget and shaving it with a sharp exacto knife. This cut corner makes a "ramp" that helps the prong get over the corner it catches on. Done carefully, the cap still latches but the button more easily releases the prongs so the cap can be opened.



Rumor has it KTM has changed the caps for 2014... we will see!

vintageveloce screwed with this post 05-27-2013 at 04:21 PM
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:02 PM   #307
mmjsport
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So you got a 2013 350? Congrats.
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Old 05-27-2013, 12:01 AM   #308
E-Ticket2
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Something else that makes the gas cap *tremendously* easier to get on and off ... is just a little lubricant.

Yup, spray a little silicone on a paper towel ... and rub it on the rubber gasket that seals off the tank.

That's all. What it does is reduce the friction of the rubber seal against the sealing surface of the gas tank.
Just simply makes everything slippy-slidy and the gas cap goes on and off much, much easier.

When it get hard(er) to turn again -- simply wipe on a bit more silcone.

Cheers! E-Ticket
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Old 05-27-2013, 06:52 AM   #309
Stu
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Lube(s)

E-Ticket,

I use silicon based teflon spray. Works like a charm, just as you noted.

Nice Rumble,

I had just a bit of blue smoke and an overly rich condition when my 500 was started at ambient temperature. The blue smoke went away in about 10 hours. My 500 uses zero oil. I started with full synthetic and have kept that in the engine since with no undesirable consequences. I now have 78 mostly off-road hours on it. I still have a slight bit of carbon / dark smoke when it starts from cold. It goes away in about a minute.

Since I have been doing so much tight woods riding with my 500 I decided to give it a break. I just bought a hold-over '13 KTM 250 XC 2-stroke. I wish I was close to you, E-Ticket, to just pester you with this soon-to-be delivered dirt demon.

Stu
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:01 AM   #310
yzedf
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Mine has never smoked. Full synthetic since first oil change.

Gas cap, I removed the prongs and its fine. Gas cap is never loose. All I ride is rocky single track so it would've rattled loose by now if it was going to.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:44 AM   #311
E-Ticket2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu View Post
E-Ticket,

I use silicon based teflon spray. Works like a charm, just as you noted.

Nice Rumble,

I had just a bit of blue smoke and an overly rich condition when my 500 was started at ambient temperature. The blue smoke went away in about 10 hours. My 500 uses zero oil. I started with full synthetic and have kept that in the engine since with no undesirable consequences. I now have 78 mostly off-road hours on it. I still have a slight bit of carbon / dark smoke when it starts from cold. It goes away in about a minute.

Since I have been doing so much tight woods riding with my 500 I decided to give it a break. I just bought a hold-over '13 KTM 250 XC 2-stroke. I wish I was close to you, E-Ticket, to just pester you with this soon-to-be delivered dirt demon.

Stu
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:46 AM   #312
E-Ticket2
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Used a non-synthetic oil (Honda GN-4) during engine break-in ... and then shifted over to Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.

*No* oil use and no smoking or richness on startup either.

Me likey. - ET
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:53 AM   #313
E-Ticket2
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I am reluctant to disable/cut off the locking feature on my gas cap.

Yes, it's a PITA.
But I once had a simple tip-over on a rough, technical trail on my '06 450 EXC.
No biggie at all.
Except that a stump in the grass jammed into my thigh ... which forced my kneecap into my gas cap ... and knocked off the gas cap.

It's a terrible feeling to be pinned by your bike, with a hot engine, and having gas pour out all over your legs.
Even worse when you hear your electrical fan turn on.

Fortunately, nothing happened.
But I never want to repeat that again. Ever.

So I'll just keep using the silicone lubricant as needed.

Cheers, E-Ticket
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:37 PM   #314
Dirty in all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yzedf View Post
Mine has never smoked. Full synthetic since first oil change.

Gas cap, I removed the prongs and its fine. Gas cap is never loose. All I ride is rocky single track so it would've rattled loose by now if it was going to.
Same here. Altho I did run 10w/50 all winter and now Im onto 10w/60 both synthetic.
Bike has been down more times that Id like to even admit and the gas cap has never budged.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:39 AM   #315
harcus OP
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Fuel Filters on the FI bikes

Much has been written about the fuel filters on the 500 as well as other FI KTMs. Here are some options that I have not seen posted that you may be interested in. Note that this is just one man's opinion based on experiences related to a 2012 500 EXC that now has 5700 miles on it.

1. Filter in the inlet on the throttle body - This is the famous filter that caused a lot of grief early on. KTM changed from the 10 micron filter to a 15 supposedly. Hard to prove. In any case, the filter area is very, very small causing frequent plug up. I have removed mine from about day 2 to solve this issue. I did not feel bad about this because of Item 2 below.

2. In line fuel filter (external) - I replaced the throttle body filter with a larger external filter mounted between the quick disconnect & the throttle body. Many people use the Golan filter here, I chose another option - an Autozone filter no FF1203DL / WIX33027/Fram G3515. This is a standard auto filter available at many stores for about $4. I chose it because of availability, cost & most importantly because it has a large filter area.

The filters -



The small inline cut open -



Notice how large the filter media is in area. This is good. Much larger than the Golan & others. This one was cut open after about 4000 miles to see what all was in there. Not much is the answer. Remember, this is downstream of the main tank filter.



3. Main Tank Filter -

The main tank filter is located inside the tank on the pump / filter / regulator assembly. Looks like this...



The fuel is picked up on the lower end of this string (LH side in the pic) pushed thru the filter to the regulator then routed down to the tank exit fitting (again on the LH side of the pic). The filter in this pic is again a replacement filter from Autozone FF3330Dl / Wix 33095 / Fram G3606 available for about$5 an any auto parts store. The key criteria here was size - it had to fit into the tank port at the back. Then availability & cost as well.

Note that I do NOT use the normal fuel clamps. I prefer stainless safety wire wrapped around the hose 2 turns & twisted to form a choke. This approach is from a previous life in the aircraft biz. It has been proven to be bullet proof. I use 2 of these on each coupling for redundancy (again from the aircraft life). Some have expressed concern about about cutting the fuel line. Could happen but I have never seen it happen in 40 years.

Like this -



Because the filters are cheap & easily available & because safety wire is as well (go to Harbor Freight) you can carry these in the field if you like with little inconvenience.
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