airhead oil

Buffel · 12-04-2011, 11:37 PM

I use this oil in my airhead http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/173 which uses 0.18% zinc and 0.18% phosphor. Is this a good oil? Or should i change it for something with API class sg instead of sl?

wmax351 · 12-05-2011, 12:18 AM

Just saying:

I'd stick with something normal. Mobil 1 15w-50, or Castrol 20w-50. Either should be fine, once breakin is done.

Diesel rated oil is good for breakin, and is cheap.

Arkwright2007 · 12-05-2011, 01:02 AM

In an Airhead you should use a mineral 20/50, fancy modern oils are too thin, in the gearbox and bevel drive you must use 80/90 GL5 spec gear oil, GL4 is not good enough for the shear strains in a BMW box. Every time you change the engine oil change the transmission oils as well (for what it costs, they're quite reasonable when bought in bulk).

dartman340ta · 12-05-2011, 03:26 AM

well i have 2 ? for you all 1978 r100/7 oil light flickers at idle... any reason for this ... oil is full? idle is 1000 ...
#2 is they a easy way to sink the two carbs on this machine... just did a top end fix and carb rebuild's ...is there a vac port on them ... cant seam to find any on the carbs or in the book
i

Buffel · 12-05-2011, 03:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dartman340ta

well i have 2 ? for you all 1978 r100/7 oil light flickers at idle... any reason for this ... oil is full? idle is 1000 ...
#2 is they a easy way to sink the two carbs on this machine... just did a top end fix and carb rebuild's ...is there a vac port on them ... cant seam to find any on the carbs or in the book
i

Maybe its a bad oil pressure switch (located under the left cilinder)
And there should be vacum ports on the carbs. But you can also sinc then by ear using the sparkplug shorting method.

But i should change my oil again i guess?

100RT · 12-05-2011, 04:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmax351

Just saying:

I'd stick with something normal. Mobil 1 15w-50, or Castrol 20w-50. Either should be fine, once breakin is done.

Diesel rated oil is good for breakin, and is cheap.

A few years back there was an article in the BMWMOA that showed what happened to the lifters in an airhead after using Castrol GTX and it wasnt pretty. Valvoline racing 20-50 is high in the zinc and phos and is reasonable in price, Valvoline also makes a motorcycle oil that meets the SG specs.

Buffel · 12-05-2011, 06:01 AM

But how high should these values be??

TimTowtdi · 12-05-2011, 06:06 AM

Check out bobistheoilguy.com for lots of info on oils. You will get more reasonable replies there then here.

wmax351 · 12-05-2011, 12:41 PM

Just bought some Redline ZZDP/breakin additive. Seems like that is the easy way to go. Usually don't trust additives, But I'll make an exception if its from redline and doesn't promise unreasonable stuff.

Buffel · 12-05-2011, 01:12 PM

bought the right oil now, changed it agian so problem solved:)

12-04-2011, 11:37 PM	#1
Buffel ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2011 Location: Eindhoven, Holland Oddometer: 112	airhead oil I use this oil in my airhead http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/173 which uses 0.18% zinc and 0.18% phosphor. Is this a good oil? Or should i change it for something with API class sg instead of sl? __________________ I like turtles

12-05-2011, 01:02 AM	#3
Arkwright2007 Grumpy ole Git Joined: Sep 2009 Location: Lincolnshire, Engerland Oddometer: 71	In an Airhead you should use a mineral 20/50, fancy modern oils are too thin, in the gearbox and bevel drive you must use 80/90 GL5 spec gear oil, GL4 is not good enough for the shear strains in a BMW box. Every time you change the engine oil change the transmission oils as well (for what it costs, they're quite reasonable when bought in bulk). __________________ Duncan R1200 GS (07) R80 being Cafe Racered (82) R80 G/S (81) R100 GSPD (92)

12-05-2011, 06:01 AM	#7
Buffel ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2011 Location: Eindhoven, Holland Oddometer: 112	But how high should these values be?? __________________ I like turtles

12-05-2011, 01:12 PM	#10
Buffel ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2011 Location: Eindhoven, Holland Oddometer: 112	bought the right oil now, changed it agian so problem solved:) __________________ I like turtles

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

12-05-2011, 12:18 AM	#2
wmax351 Studly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Marin County and Berkeley, CA Oddometer: 740	Just saying: I'd stick with something normal. Mobil 1 15w-50, or Castrol 20w-50. Either should be fine, once breakin is done. Diesel rated oil is good for breakin, and is cheap.

12-05-2011, 03:26 AM	#4
dartman340ta Adventurer Joined: Dec 2011 Location: bay lake florida Oddometer: 20	well i have 2 ? for you all 1978 r100/7 oil light flickers at idle... any reason for this ... oil is full? idle is 1000 ... #2 is they a easy way to sink the two carbs on this machine... just did a top end fix and carb rebuild's ...is there a vac port on them ... cant seam to find any on the carbs or in the book i

12-05-2011, 06:06 AM	#8
TimTowtdi Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Chicago Area Oddometer: 224	Check out bobistheoilguy.com for lots of info on oils. You will get more reasonable replies there then here.

12-05-2011, 12:41 PM	#9
wmax351 Studly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2011 Location: Marin County and Berkeley, CA Oddometer: 740	Just bought some Redline ZZDP/breakin additive. Seems like that is the easy way to go. Usually don't trust additives, But I'll make an exception if its from redline and doesn't promise unreasonable stuff.